steve_wilwerding

On a street car, you probably wouldn't notice any difference. On the track, drilled rotors stay cooler, but also have a propensity to crack around the holes. They are no panacea.

Assuming the drilled rotors cost more for your MB, I'd stick with the plain rotors.

I need the part number for the plastic pan just to the rear of the center pan that you gave me the part number for.

As a side note, for anyone else who has changed their fuel filter, do you notice that these plastic pieces are especially brittle? I've snapped two pieces off now, and I wasn't really putting much force on them. I guess it's probably from the age, but I'd be interested if other people are having the same problem.

Do you actually have to disconnect the coolant lines?

I need the part number for the plastic belly pan that covers the fuel filter. I broke one of the tabs taking it off. Also, if possible, does anyone have an approximate cost?

I'm doing my 30,000 mile maintenance, and the only part I'm having trouble with is the fuel filter. I removed the plastic belly pan (and broke off one of the tabs, so I guess it's time for a new one) and the fuel filter is underneath a bunch of what seem to be hard coolant lines. I couldn't see an easy way to get the coolant lines out of the way to get to the fuel filter.

Please help!

On the assembly just above 8 and 9 in the picture, it's the protrusion on the left. It's the catch that you pull to release the hood after you've pulled the lever inside the car. I'm pretty sure it used to have a piece of rubber on it, but I may be mistaken. Maybe someone could check.

I pulled my front bumper off the other day to clean the radiators, and when I popped the cover underneath the hood latch off, it popped off the little plastic or rubber piece on the hood latch. Does anyone know the part number for that little piece?

What are the brightest headlight bulbs available that I could install in my 98 Boxster (standard, not Litronics) that won't melt my headlight covers?

As I've heard it, the Boxster S transmission is nearly identical to the 996 transmission. I've never heard of anyone with either a Boxster or Boxster S transmission having trouble after installing the 996 engine.

If you have a 2002, yes, I would go for the 3.6 eGas.

Do you happen to know the 2.5 gap spec right off?

Is it necessary to gap the Beru plugs?

Since you have a 99, you will have to go with a 3.4. Pre-2000 Boxsters don't use eGas but 3.6 engines do, and getting them to work together is not easy. Make sure you get a non-eGas 3.4, as there are some eGas 3.4s as well.

I have a 1998 Boxster coming up on 30,000 miles. I'm going to be doing the 30,000 mile maintenance myself, and I was wondering whether it was worthwhile to change the coolant. I have flushed the coolant on every other car I have ever owned every two years. The Boxster's coolant is coming up on 7 years old.

I guess my question is, how long will lifetime antifreeze last? Do you think I should change my coolant? Would it worthwhile to just drain the radiators and add a couple of fresh quarts?

I may try to pull the shims off of the back of the stock pads and put them on the Pagids.

Yes, I do track the car, and I've already got Blues on, so going to Oranges isn't really feasible at this point.

I thought there was an anti-squeal shim for the Blue pads.

I just installed some Pagid Blues into my Boxster. They stop great, but they squeal like a banshee during city driving. Does Pagid make an anti-squeal shim for these pads? If not, is there a Porsche part I could use?

I just installed Pagids into my 98 Boxster last night, and the biggest pain was getting the brake wear sensors out of the old pads.

Since the Pagids don't have holes for the sensors, and since I never plan on using the sensors again, I zip-tied them to the brake lines. However, would it work to completely unplug them, or would this trip the brake wear light?

Any other solutions, or should I just stick with the zip tying?

Here's a tricky one:

The Boxster has two covers - a carpeted cover and the engine cover. The engine cover has 5 screws that screw into holes around the engine compartment. Those holes have metal clips in them that "grab" the screws. I am missing one of those metal pieces - could you help with the part number?

Thanks.

First of all, I have decided against this.

Second, if someone else decides to do this, I was advised by TRE Motorsports to put 996 calipers/rotors on the front and move the front Boxster calipers to the rear (they will bolt right up to the stock rear rotors). Front Boxster brakes are roughly equivalent to rear 996 brakes, so doing this won't upset the brake balance as much as keeping the rear Boxster calipers in place.

Since getting 996 brakes on the rear of a 98 Boxster is a pain, I was thinking about just replacing the front calipers and rotors on my Boxster with 996 parts. Is this advisable? Will it cause problems with the rear brakes?

I have 17" wheels, so no problem. Do the 996 calipers match the Boxster calipers? My Boxster calipers are kind of gray, whereas the 996 calipers I've seen are gloss black.

Someone over on the 911 Board at Pelican was given 996 calipers and rotors. He is trying to install them on his 1977 930 (with 16" wheels), which I told him probably couldn't be done very cheaply. Instead, I offered him to swap my base Boxster's brakes and calipers for his 996 ones.

If I've read correctly, the 996 front calipers and rotors will bolt right up to my Boxster, but the rear rotors won't fit because of the parking brake. I think I can buy special rotors from Suncoast (like they offer with their Boxster S brake upgrade kit), but is there any way to machine to rotors so they'll fit? Am I right on the rest of this?

What I'd really like to do is just swap front calipers/rotors, since I don't really need to upgrade the rears on my Boxster. If I've heard correctly, the 996 calipers look just like the base Boxster calipers, so it will still look stock (and I won't have red front calipers and rear black calipers).

Is this correct?

Actually, what I normally use in these situations is a custom-made fire extinguisher. I took a regular fire extinguisher, cut a hole in the top, and inserted an air nipple (like you have in your tires). I can unscrew the top, fill about 3/4 up with fluid, and pressurize it. That works pretty well - I just wondered if there were other ideas.

I'm planning on changing my transmission fluid to the Redline cocktail this weekend, and I was wondering what the best way is to get the fluid into the transmission. I'm assuming Tool Pants or Loren has some trick up their sleeve.