PBXJedi

I decided to tackle my 60,000 mile maintenance this week. I also threw in an air/oil seperator change for the fun of it. Comments below:

Cabin Filter

That the dealer charges for this service is a crime. Less than 5 minutes. Unscrew a screw, slide the old one out, slide the old one in, rescrew the screw.

Air Filter

You have to take the engine compartment lid off, which takes at least 5 minutes. After that it's pop-out/pop-in. Couldn't be much easier.

Multirib Belt / Poly Belt / Serpentine Belt

Super easy. 30 minutes or less. I had to buy a 24mm socket and a cheater bar, but the socket was cheap and I've been needing a cheater bar for a while anyway.

Engine Clean

Not too bad. I bought 2 cans of Gunk Engine Bright and sprayed the underside profusely. It had a ton of caked on road grime that emulsified and dripped down the driveway. Just make sure you are not in the stream.

Oil / Filter Change

Moderately Easy once you get the car jacked up. I couldn't find an oil filter wrench that fit anywhere (74mm 14 dimples). I found a 74mm 15 dimples but unsuprisingly, that didn't work. I ended up having to use a strap, which are always awkward. I prefer the kind you can jab a screwdriver through :) My drain plug was stripped to almost a complete circle. I hammered in the biggest torx bit that would fit, then I had to take an unplanned 1 hour trip to the dealer to get a new one :( At least it gave the oil time to drain... I did discover Porsche provides an allen wrench of just the perfect size in the tool kit under the hood.

Spark Plugs

Not too bad once you get the rear wheels off. You pretty have to remove a trim panel to got to the front plugs, but it's not hard to do. Be sure you have a 6" extension bar for your ratchet. I had to go buy one (yet another unplanned trip...) :-/ Make sure you plug in all the plugs before starting the engine or you will get a sound like a cat caught in the engine (don't ask me how I know this).

Brake Pad Change

Moderately Hard. Changing the pads is super easy (again, once you get the wheels off). The hard part is getting the stupid sensors out of the old pads :angry: I found a good trick to that. Get the pad out, pull on the sensor wire while pushing in one of the tabs, it should come out a tiny bit, now push the opposite tab and it should pop out.

Brake Fluid Flush

Since I was already down there changing the pads, it wasn't too bad. I have a Motive Power Bleeder so I had to keep pumping it up and letting it out (pump it up to flush one brake, let it out to change the next pad).

Air/Oil Seperator

No man should ever change this... ever. It was not designed to be replaced while the engine is still attached to the car, this much is obvious. The threads here were very useful. I would have killed myself trying to get the clamp reattached, buying a screw-type clamp was much nicer. My old one did have a cracked bellow, so I hope that will cure my CEL.

Things I did not do:

Change fuel filter

I bought one, but really didn't feel like tackling it just yet (not after everything else... I need a vacation).

Clean Radiators

I may do that this weekend. I had planned to do it while the front right wheel was off, but by that time I was getting tired and decided to put it off to another day.

Flush Cooling System

I flushed it about 3 months ago.

Misc Notes on jacking it up

When buying a jackstand... make sure it's shorter than your jack maximum height. Jacking it up in the middle rear (right behind the oil pan) then putting the jacks on the rear strut things like Toolpants suggests worked out nicely.

Total Time: 18 Hours

including all the unplanned shopping trips (4 in total), cleanup, testing, eating, etc...

Can you help me out here, I read the following you posted "Multirib Belt / Poly Belt / Serpentine Belt

Super easy. 30 minutes or less. I had to buy a 24mm socket and a cheater bar, but the socket was cheap and I've been needing a cheater bar for a while anyway." - can you send me a picture or some simple instructions for changing this, I have access to the eng, just not sure which roller is the one I need. thx! PBXJedi (2001 Boxster S)

I changed my battery and found out that my radio was replaced sometime before I owned my 99 cab. So, I have the original radio code card but it does me no good.

I just pulled the radio. Can anyone help me?

It's a CR220

Mod# BE 4362

S/N: 15031442

Thanks in advance...

Dan

Dan, I have the same radio in my '01 Boxster S:

It's a CR220

Mod# BE 4362

What code worked for you?

Thanks, PBXJedi

just see this post. you probably don't need a whole alternator, just the regulator which is a super cheap part. you'll need to be logged-in to see most of the (important) pics.

Alternator DIY

SWEET!!!! You guys ROCK!

Thanks for the info and the pics

Look up the how to put the top in service mode to get at the alternator...it's covered in the Bentley! Go to autozone or other car place. put top in service mode to access alternator and let them test it for free. All the corporate car parts places do it now. If you don't own a Bentley buy one now!

Shawn

Shawn,

It will take a few days for my Bentley repair manual to get here, excellent suggestion thx.

I found out how to open the compartment and basically dissemble the incased engine. Would

you mind giving me a few steps on replacing the Alternator. I can see it on the left, behind the

passenger seat. I believe OEM is 120 amps, any brand would suggest replacing it with, Bosch, Remy etc?

Thanks,

PBXJedi

Help!! I might have the same problem, I need some advice PLEASE.

All, my 2001 Boxster S (3.2, 6 speed) (48K miles) ba :D ttery died about a week ago. Ran to the store bought a new one. Yesterday while driving the following lights came on: ABS, Battery & Air Bag. After about 30 secs they went off and then came back on. I turned the car off, voltage metered the battery to find it hovering around 11+ volts, big drop for a new battery. I started the car, turned everything on (AC, Lights, Radio) and the car totally freaked on me. By that I mean, everything worked in slow motion, check the battery voltage and found it at a staggering 9+ volts and falling rapidly. I’m thinking alternator is going out on me but want the advice of some folks who are fellow owners. And if it is the alternator can someone tell me how hard it is to replace yourself, instructions would be nice.

Super thanks!!!!

PBXJedi

Radio Code Please (I changed my battery)

Year: 2001 Boxster S

Engine: 3.2

Trans: M

Radio: CR220

Becker1

BE:4362

SN: 15050274

Thanks in advance!!!

The remote receiver will turn itself off after a few days of inactivity (4 or 5?) so it won't drain the battery.

Once you have unlocked your car with the keys, it will switch itself back on.

Toby,

If it doesn't, what should I look for to fix or replace, the remote receiver itself?

Thanks,

PBXJedi

All,

Recently picked up my Boxster S, it came with two keys, so I was thrilled. However, neither of the car remote key buttons work to disable the alarm or unlock the doors/trunk. The batteries are good in both keys, I see the red light flashing when I press the buttons. I can manually unlock the doors and disable the alarm no problem. Is there something I can do to fix this myself, like a re-sync or something to engage the remote option?

I would appreciate any feed back.

Thanks!!!!