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wdonovan

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Posts posted by wdonovan

  1. For those who do not read this forum, there is a site www.ripoffreport.com. There may be other sites as well. One of the great benefits of the world shrinking through computer networking is that things are slowly getting toward being self-monitored, like Ebay feedback. I'd tell anyone and everyone who'd listen. In the courtroom end.... Go for big punitive damages. Set a precedent so other Porsche dealers do not hurt innocent people like us! The planet has enough dirtbags per capita. Make them pay. I'd be willing to limp into court on crutches and say he hit me if it helps. Get back to me if you need this.

    Best of luck!

  2. Just what is the purpose of this part / system? The name implies to me that it separates water vapor from oil. I know where it is and what it looks like but I'm not familiar with a separator on any other type of engine and would like to understand it. So anyone.... what's it hook to? I can see at least 4 connections in the picture in Pelican. What's it do? How does it make a car smoke when N/G? (I have a feeling one of the connections is intake mfld)? :drive:

  3. Second most important (second to torque) is getting the surfaces that receive sealant bone dry. The pan is easy to wash but get the crankcase as dry as you can with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Reach up and dry the inner lip so that it takes longer for residual oil to drip down. The longer you can wait after dumping the oil and shutting the engine, the less oil there will be to contaminate the new sealant. And the faster you can work, the less drainback there will be. Remember, a few drops of oil on these surfaces is going to get you a second chance to do the whole thing over. If Porsche is emphatic over a specific "Drei Bond", it's probably the stuff that's more oil resistant than normal RTV, still use caution.

  4. Thanks guys. I was incorrectly thinking that this code was the sensoe, not the solenoid. Just got off the phone with my tech who says 02's had debris screens that corode and fill the Varicam vane actuators with crap. Say quite often it is this junk and not the solenoid. Worst case, $3500 since he'd change both solenoids and replace Varicam vane actuators if necessary (all with engine out since the rest of the job isn't really doable in car while maintaining cleanliness). He's going to try a solenoid replacement and we'll see if that cures it. Oh well, at least I got to drive the car for 1000 miles.

  5. Just got a Durametric scanner hooked to my recently acquired 2002 C4 Cab. Scan revealed code P1325 "Factory Fault code 178, Cam adjustment, bank 2, Signal implausible, below limit or above limit."

    Other specifics are:

    Car idles fine. Power comes on at 3500-4000 but I can't tell if it's making its rated HP (stepped out of a 600HP Vette into the Porsche). Anything feels weak after 600.

    Fuel mileage is terrible (avg 13.8 @ 75% city / 25% hwy). This is why I got the Durametric. To check O-2 output, any other parameters.

    Questions:

    1) Is P1325 a catchall for any problems with the bank 2 sensor? Does it imply that the sensor or wiring is the issue? Or can it mean that there is a problem with the actual cam timing?

    2) What side is bank 2? Driver or passenger? Is the bank 2 sensor on the front or back of the cylinder head (pretty sure it's near the intake cam on the front / back end of the motor, right?

    3) Is it accesible to unplug and check the wiring, plug connection, input voltage, and signal output?

    4) Is it accesible to replace the sensor without engine removal?

    I really hate having one whole half of the engine "implausible" and hope someone can steer me toward corrective action and/or diagnosis.

  6. I have an '02 C4 Cabrio that I'm just as suspicious of. The spoiler works manually but I had my wife look back at 80mph and she didn't see it. I never got the warning light.

    1) If the connector that Scouser mentioned was intermittent or faulty, would the spoiler also not work manually?

    2) Is it possible for the spoiler to be down at over 80mph and not initiate a warning light? Is this warning triggered by hard limit switches that actually detect the spoiler's position or is it possible for them to be fooled in a case where the actuators are not being energized?

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