ALEV8

I did mine myself and it was not bad at all as long as you have minimal gas in the tank and a quality respirator and gloves. Made a huge difference. My gas tank literally has sand in the bottom and metal bits you can clearly see once almost all the gas is out. Makes you wonder.

Blow out the evap valve ? Straight up replace the canister?

 

Try blowing out the pruge line (they plug up over time), test the valve for correct electrical fucntion and that it is clear as well. Also check any flex connections (rubber hose sections).  Replacing the EVAP cannister is not a normal occurance, but it can occasionally happen.

So the valve up in the engine compartment is the one to hit first....

Ok now I'm getting intermittent warm air blowing, but only on the hottest of hot days....of course. Warm is enough not to be normal. Is this something common? No errors I can find.

Motherfcker works NOW!!!

Back to nothin....

Wait it now gets better.

I saw the key indoors in dim light and the LED is blinking rapidly. I wiggle things a bit and it stops, plus key is working again. Two flashes just as before. Gonna see what the car does now so stand by......

It's RF is dead. I can use the key to open the car door, but the alarm won't turn off unless I actually start the car. Gotta look into that. I can lock the door and alarm turns on with the key. I can drive obviously. Genuine fobs on eBay from Rusnak, etc. are $165-75. Can these be programmed and cut? Are the old fobs paperweights?

I've previously transferred key guys to eBay housings and they don't quite work even though cut key and PCB is an exact fit. They illuminate just as my last good key did but won't unlock the **** door!

What's my best move at this point? Is Porsche the sole key programming/cutting resource?

Crrrrrrrap.

In the pass rear wheel well no?

Blow out the evap valve ? Straight up replace the canister?

Cleared the faults with my Durametric and the subsystem ready codes are not good to go. I went to get a sticker but no joy. The evap canister must be on the fritz....ain't no way I can drive far enough, or have enough drive cycles before the CEL eliminates again. What the hell do I do?

Evaporative emissions fault.

New 500 GB SSD into the MacBook Air and windows 7 installed. Works like a charm.

For 130k mine has not been!

"Guessing is half the battle...."

-Abraham Lincoln

Just noticed a CEL.

Looking for space on my Mac Air so I can run Bootcamp and Windows 7/8. I have 34GB free. Don't think that will make it but I'll try. Bootcamp says 33 needed.

Only symptom is a rhythmic slight idle drop when I am stopped. Anyone had this yet?

Just do Vertex and don't look back.

Shhhh don't talk. You'll ruin it.

Went to car wash and the rear wiper was pulled off. Methinks it stripped some of the wiper motor teeth as there's some slight play. The arm hangs a few degrees lower now. Likely I'll replace it with one of the two new motors I have in the box on my bench.

What say the forum?

By Jove, I think I've got it. Way way less with PSM OFF and Sport setting and on Low Level height. Bizarre, yes.

7 - 8 hrs and 175$/ea for the mounts

7 - 8 hrs and 175$/ea for the mounts

Upon starting there is a dip and coming to a stop. My idle value does not drop as evidenced by the Durametric.

2 words:

1.Engine

2.Mounts

Things with edges seem to be denting my rear seat! I've not conditioned the leather this year. Any way to get these pressed in marks out of the leather? I think conditioning may do it. Curious if anyone has dealt with this.....yes I know I'm crazy.

The P tech who drove my car had no issue and my idle does not move at all when read by Durametric despite the shudder, and mine is still doing it. What fault are you referring to?