ALEV8

I get that front module and even rear module fault sometimes, and it’s always voltage related. Keep a trickle charger on a fresh battery and that stuff won’t bug you. 12.6v or less is a dead battery. I think my car might have a parasitic drain but I barely drive the car even as a DD......nowhere near 20 mi/day I’ve heard you should drive to maintain a full charge. As my car sits now it shows 11.8v!

120,000 mi.Porsche airbag defeat and LATCH system added to front passenger seat for Porsche Junior seat. Added Optima Red battery. Complete front axles L/R, rear CV boots, water pump, thermostat, two sets of MPSS, AOS, two full suspension swaps, Numeric Racing shifter, coolant expansion tank, engine mounts, serpentine belt and all

pulleys, brake fluid, pads and discs, power steering fluid, gear oil change. Both cats and O2 sensors, Borla exhaust then Fabspeed. New Momo 69 steering wheel and quick detach. Many minor cosmetic interior/exterior items. PO replaced clutch at 78k, alternator, and wiring to starter. 

Needs new swaybar links in front any minute now......

Old thread but yes according to my tech at PPP Dallas with 20 yrs there says the axles come out as well f& r. That allows the unit to drop together once free of bolts. This was confirmed today. One reason to let a pro do an AWD car OR replace LCAs same time. Prying on LCAs will destroy older bushings I surmise so easier to remove axles. They charge 8hrs labor on my c4.

I did the dog bone straight away.

Next those **** engine mounts.

If one is replacing tire rod ends and sway bar end links and bushings I can knock it all out at once.

Might as well. Upper control arms too!

When did everyone cave and do do this???!!!!

What did it run and she nice when can it be done without dropping the subframe?

Alignment was set this year. Pressures were within spec. Looks terrible BUT is it a warranty issue?

I am now. In the drivers rear. Peeked up there tonight and man my roof rack looks like ****. Needs some love. Dunno on that one. Wax maybe with Collinite metal polish. Front two holes in rack are rusty and funky looking and have no rubber plugs in them. I take it the roof rack is concealing these drains? I was thinking of using compressor air and a long tube to deliver a blast.....

Went and saw discount tire, and the guy told me that I was taking corners too fast, and that this type of "chunking" is 100% normal. I told the guy of the seven or eight performance vehicles I have owned in addition to the others I've never seen a single tire do this in my entire life, this is my first set of Yokohama tires.

Anyone have a course of action they recommend?

This battery is new as of 2015.

It feels as if these are electrically/voltage related issues, all not causing an illuminated CEL light.

Suddenly I have a steering wheel rocker switch implausible signal. Durametric 1871.

Suddenly I have a key out of synchronization/KESSY issue. Durametric 171. (new steering column)

I still have the footwell potentiometer fault. Durametric 2197.

Rain sensor/light sensor, Durametric 1520.

We had a cold snap about a day ago and these all popped up. I will note I felt a major THUNK while driving about two days ago. Not sure if it was the tranny or one of my jacked front CVs.

I love Ol Turbo, but 997 is starting to sound better by the day.....I'm trying to be strong.

I have a footwell potentiometer which says signal implausible and I noticed that I no longer have a illumination in the controls at night, however all the controls still work. Any thoughts? I have not been able to completely erase this fault and I'm assuming it's a short of some kind in a switch.

4/32" + all the way around.....

Well, 3yr warranty on these is good until 12-21-15. Original purchase date was 12-21-12. Tread depth must be 3/32" or greater. Hope I can squeak it and where on the tire do the measure? Not in the mood to shell out another $1300 today.

Maybe check in with Discount Tire?

These tires aren't that old, tread depth is fine....

NX32712.

Wife is destroying the wheels on my 4.8i as well. Don't ask, it's not a good situation.

Here you go....

Front left and right tires and one rear. It's like the outer edge is crumbling and tearing. I've never ever seen this before on any performance car. I do not drive very much to be honest. I'm a stay at home dad and I go to school and back and to the grocery store mostly.

Did some research & it seems Loren recommends clearing this fault to see if it comes back, before replacing. Of course I ordered one already!

Still trying to get my CTT to pass inspection. Had an evap system CEL and replaced the vent valve up front as well as a damaged oil separator membrane. Cap on the separator has cracked a bit of course but it's on tight. Ran my Durametric scan. I'm now getting a P0349 camshaft position sensor error Bank 2 Sensor A. Simultaneously I'm trying to get all my readiness codes to PASS. Car needs more drive cycles than I normally incur but two of four are PASS, hoping to get the Secondary Air 02 sensors heater and Cat Efficiency tests to pass ASAP.

Car was driven for about 30 minutes in traffic and at normal temps. Yesterday only 02 Heater passed. My educated guess is drive cycle (more driving is necessary). Dunno why readiness would jump around though. I'm not resetting codes so the drive cycle process gets reset as well. In TX only 2 of the 4 readiness tests need to pass.

Is this related to P0349 error?

Must the camshaft position sensors be replaced in pairs?

Maybe I smacked the CPS reaching back to the firewall to the vacuum hose which was just shoved onto the tank vent valve, the spring clamp shoved way back and the hose was cracking badly too.

I'm hoping I don't need to clear all the DME faults each time I check so Readiness can be reached.....somebody let me know! Worn out hose is above the green arrow....right where it turns down to connect to the vent valve.

Have not had a chance to fix it yet. My e70 X5 was vandalized and been dealing with repairing all the window trim plus inner/outer door seals and one window. Managed to source factory glassparts cheaply and will drop it to the body guys Mon. I put mom and baby into the CTT so engine is always too hot to work on....ill get a break here in a bit and replace the hose and valve plus oil vent cal membrane.

I have bought new fronts as well and will be doing this myself just been putting it off. 131kmi on my 04 Turbo. I have an Assenmacher socket I'll order too, for that axle nut. Very high torque spec on that nut and was curious how you'd do that.

http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/vwaudi-assenmacher-6500-32mm-point-axle-nut-socket-p-2071.html

Anyone replaced the line yet and the evap system valve on the right side of the motor? I'm starting there and going to hit evap canister next if fault isn't cleared.

131133 on my CTT 04. Have no done these yet.

Consensus says do it and use the recommended fluids, yes?

Corrosion on the board kills phones too if you promptly dry them with isopropyl alcohol and canned air it's possible to rescue them but those keys are mostly sealed.

Ordered it yesterday or so from Pelican. Ordered the oil separator membrane as well from Vanos BMW which should help as well and it was $19.