reckelman

My path forward is to have the a pair of used turbo's that were purchased off Ebay for $200 rebuilt. The two Southern California local turbo shop I've talked with were Comp Turbo Technology gave me a rebuild quote of $399 and Pure Turbos rebuild estimate was $450. The best price for new turbos I could find were approx $1800 each. If you can repair and have the turbos rebuilt to factory specification there a huge cost savings.

Comp Turbo Technology Inc.

www.COMPTURBO.com

3214 Producer Way

Pomona Ca 91768

Office:909-594-8400

Pure Turbos

info@pureturbos.com

353 Airport Rd. Oceanside, CA 92058

Phone Number:(760) 721-7669

I had a similar problem with Mercedes, it only had only one plug to work with - you can use a fluid extractor to pump out and add your fluid back into the differential. I used a Astro Pneumatic extractor and it great for all types of fluid removal or fluid replenishment projects. 

I validated the part numbers for check valve and the turbo ventilation line number has changed. Have you had any experience removing the turbo's for rebuild?

Are we sure we're talking about the intercooler hose or the breather hose....an updated intercooler hose may be true...but it has nothing to do with how the oil gets into the air stream.....oil comes from either the turbo bearing seal or the breather hose....99% of the time it seems to be the breather

thanks clarksongli

I really want to avoid the turbo bearing replacement option. The problem is just to much oil is getting into the turbo. I going to remove and inspect the vent line (PN 94810721651), check valve (PN 94810721750) very closely.  

I will check the intercooler hose for present of oil build up later this week. I wondering why the dealer did not report that the intercooler hose could be a potential problem. If the intercooler hose is the problem, that would be an excellent fix.. 

I recently had my 2004 CTT in the dealer to track down an oil leak from the front left corner of the cayenne, the dealer indicated the oil leak conditions could stemmed from either the left turbo or a faulty oil seperator (located in the valve cover). I've already replace my oil seperator 2 1/2 years ago and no smoke has been observed when the turbo's kick in. Therefore, it looks like my left turbo is leaking and needs to be replaced. My plan is to remove the left turbo and have it rebuild for under $500 vs. a new OEM turbo for $1900. My question to forum is, can the turbocharger be replace without removing the engine from vehicle? Is it a DIY project or should I take it to a shop for the remove and replace?

I had a similar event when replaced my water pump on my turbo. I would suggest using a diagnostic tool such as durametric and clear any error codes. The EMU recongizes when any sensors have been disconnected and records then as an errors. By clearing the error codes should resolve the problem.

RICK

I found the OEM outer tie rod ends ($60 each) for my CTT without any problems online. However, I wanted to get the correct ball joint puller listed in the Porsche repair manual because of the large ball joint size and standard off the shelve puller just don't fit. Porsche tool number T10187 made by Kukku can be found at Porsche specialty tool sites online for $230 . I was able to located the same tool number being used by VW and I purchased the ball joint puller from Snapon/ VW Tool and Equipment Program at less than half price. It pretty easy remove and replace tie rod ends, its just a matter of counting how many thread turns to remove the tie rod end and reversing the process to attach the new part.

Thanks for all the advice

Rick

I'm about to replace the ball joints on my 04 Cayenne Turbo. The Question is if its necessary to do a front end alignment after the ball joint end replacement?

I believe those are the camshaft position sensors.

Loren, thanks for the fast reply. Now I can get into the R&R.....

Does anyone have the the torques settings for installing a front suspension lower control arm for a 04 cayenne turbo?

Thanks

:wrench:

I recently purchased an 04 Cayenne Turbo and two weeks ago had an oil change at my local Porsche Dealer. The service adviser informed me that the vehicle inspection detected a oil leak located in the oil separator located in Bank 2 (5-8). It appears that the oil separator is integral with the camshaft cover and the leak causes excessive oil consumption. I decided to do the repair myself and purchased the camshaft cover at a considerable discount than the dealer quoted. It appears to be a straight forward part replacement. However, before starting the project I would like to make sure that fully understand the part replacement process. Has anyone had experience replacing the cover? Are there any factory repair instruction available, special tools or precaution that need to be observed?

My 04 Cayenne TurboI have 22 inch TechArt Wheels but I'm unsure of the lug nut torque value. The Cayenne Manual indicates that the OEM wheel and lug nut torque value is 118ft/lb. Would the lug nut torque value be any different for aftermarket TechArt wheels?

A complete clutch/pressure plate, throw-out bearing replacement is worth about $1200-1500 with labor. (it is a 2-4 hour job, in fact most good Porsche techs can do an entire RMS/IMS update in 4 hours or less. wheels up/wheels down.)

Under normal use, a clutch plate will last between 75-150,000 miles. Your miles may vary. Generally the younger and cockier you are, the shorter the life of your clutch plate will be......

The best way to determine if it is worth changing the clutch plate while the transmission is out of the car for the RMS is to measure the thickness of a new clutch plate, and then your clutch plate. If you plate is 50% or lessof the new plate then it could make sense to change out the clutch plate.

In your case, if you are the original and only driver of the car, do not drive aggressively, or abuse the car, then you probably have 70% or more of the clutch plate left. I would leave it in.

If you do decide to replace the clutch plate, then do not pay 1¢ of labor to have it installed. They have to do exactly the same procedure to put the clutch plate back in the car for a RMS job regardless if the clutch is new or used.

the good news is the clutch replacement cost were for the parts only since my extended warrenty covered my RMS.

I have a 02 Carrera cabriolet with 32K and a manual transmission. The car is currently in my local dealers shop for repair of the rear main seal and water pump. My service adviser “highly” suggested that my clutch needed to be replaced. The adviser stated the clutch is going to fail in the near future and we should change it out while the transmission is out of the car.

I’m not an aggressive driver, but it seems premature to change out a clutch at 32K. Information I’ve found indicatea clutch life is typical “between” 50K-70K?

I’m going to closely inspect the old clutch when it is removed, what clutch disk characteristic should I be looking for or disk dimensions measured to determine excessive wear or impending failure?

Thanks

Rick

I need to replace my driver side window on my 02 996 cabriolet and I've found a good deal on a window out of a 03 Coupe. Is there any design differences between the door glass from a coupe vs. cab? The part numbers are similiar but not exactly the same for the coupe 966 542 512 02 vs. the cab 996 542 512 03.

Any advise would be appreciated