mikes_box

i had my muffler modded like the fister mod at a local shop and once i got it i noticed that there is a rattle in the exhaust. it didn't have that before i got it modded so im thinking there is probably some welds or pieces of pipe in there from the cutting and welding process of the extra tubs. first questions, is how to get them out? i've been shaking and turning the mufflers in hopes it comes out but nothing. second question, if i just mount it with the stuff still in there will it get into the engine and damage it? third, can i just stick a long plastic hose and use a vacuum to suck it out? thanks

i spoke with a porsche mechanic previously about changing my clutch and the one thing i remember him saying was to depress the clutch pedal in a garage to see if you hear a squeak while depressing it... a squeak usually indicates that a clutch replacement is in the works...

the ticking sound is from the catalytic converters... its normal on all car... the ticking occurs as it cools... i got that smell as well and found out it was from a leaky coolant reservoir cap... see if you have the newest one... i think it ends in .04 ... if its an older cap it might just be a leak of cap as the unit vents...

so its ok to use diesel oil?

so the engine fault codes turned out to be P1128/P1130 and MAF.

compression test on the cooling system showed no leaks but they are suspecting a bad AOS (I have been getting smoke at startup, and as far as I can tell its only at startup and I havent noticed anything while running but I might have just missed noticing)

does this tell a tale or more like a bunch of unrelated issues?

the P1128 and P1130 were the exact same codes I got when my AOS went boom in addition to tons of smoke.. not too hard to DIY so i would suggest doing it yourself and save some money.... i think sunset sells the parts for like $90 plus shipping... when mine went out i couldn't wait so picked one up from steade porsche in walnut creek for $103+ tax so not too bad would have come close to sunset after shipping and i didn't have to wait... once you've done the aos clean out the maf with cleaner and you should be good to go.....

if you don't mind sharing... what did that pretty car end up costing with you having to fix the water pump?

sounds like all you need is a new coolant cap... the old ones didn't have a good seal so if you have an older one then buy a new one and see if that fixes the problem. I had that happen to me after changing out the waterpump too and a new cap fixed the boiling over issue...

Unfortunately it sounds like the ims might have gone bye bye. That is what the rattling may have been. Let's hope not as that would mean a new engine..:

sorry... but those won't polish off... it burnt so in way is that going to polish off... you'll need to take off the front lens but they don't sell replacements for those lenses...

Any update on if this is a go?

Just wanted to know if anyone on here has a racing dynamic muffler on their 996 or 997? Want to know how you like the sound... Also any drone or resonnance? Tried googling it but nothing seems to come up with that brand.. Thanks

Might just be the aos... I had the same problem on the boxster and that's the most common diagnosis for smoke at start up... When mine went out it wouldn't stop smoking...

between $500-800 all day on ebay....

If you'd like to sell the k&n cold air... I'd be interested.. Send me a pm for price...

I had the same 1124 & 26 error codes on my 98 Boxster. All inquires , including tech support from Durametric, gave the following possibilites: vaccum leak, oil cap not on, fuel pump, fuel pressure and MAF. It ended up being as stupid as a sensor loosened up. I reinstalled , cleared the codes and 6 weeks later still no CEL. All those things and more cause the 1124&26 codes. Try the simplest first and work your way up. Good Luck. Ed

- What was the stupid sensor that was loose - I am geting the same codes 1124&26 as well

most likely the aos... have that changed before it goes boom....

any aos diy for the 996

just wondering if the aos replacement the same procedure for the 996 as it is with the boxster? also is it the same part #? thanks.

looking at a 99 996 and was looking for an amp. i imagined it would be placed in the exact location the boxster amp would be but i guess i could be wrong. its easy to see the cd changer but no sign of amp. also looked at the option list and only saw 3. found one but can't seem to find or interpret the other two. here they are...c02, 236, the last one was 413 (18" classic wheels) wow this was not a highly optioned car...

The dansk sausage muffler has no drone. The ghl on the otherhand is a drone machine. The ghl will give you a headache if you're not use to it.

If the engine is replaced off 01.06, you will have the latest update, inclusive reinforced intermediate shaft.

how would you know if the update is 01.06? i believe it was replaced in 02 or 03. also is there a positive or negative to having a traditional cable driven throttle vs. a egas? i have had a 97 boxster and a 00 box but didn't notice too much of a difference..

thinking of picking up a 99 but was wondering what the major differences were after the 99 came out... the car has had a new engine put in by dealer so i should be upgraded right?

The car is a private sale but car is located in auburn area. I'm in sf.

looking for a recommendation for a shop to do a ppi on a 996... also should a compression test be done?

thinking of picking up a 00 996 from having owned two previous 986 (97 and 00) was wondering if anyone here has done the same. i know there's a big difference in power but how about handling? doing the change as i have two young ones who keep fighting about who goes with daddy... are the issues in terms of engines the same in regards to the ims?

I have a 2000 Boxster with 89000 miles on it. I am the only owner, only driver, and have been very good about keeping up with it. I do some DIY here and there, but nothing major. I probably would have done the belt work I mention below but I thought it was going to be quick and easy so decided to let a shopt take care of it. Here's the story:

Sunday 8/30 I drove with my wife to run a couple of errands, probably about 5 miles. On the way back home I hear a whining/grinding right behind me so I figure it is the serpentine belt. I'm within a couple of minutes of home so I complete the trip back. Temperature was slightly above normal, but it was also about 100F outside. Next morning, 8/31, I take it to my shop which is also only a few miles away. I don't hear the noise, but I leave it with them and explain what I heard. Later in the day they called to confirm that it was indeed the serp belt (cracked) and that the belt tensioner was bad. So they recommend replacing both. They finish the work and call me on 9/2 explaining that there is also a crack in the vacuum line and they replace that as well. I was getting CEL on for a week or so, then off for a few weeks at a time over the past few months so I figure the vacuum leak made sense. Otherwise, the car had been performing and running perfectly until the belt sound.

I picked up the car on 9/3 after all work was complete. I start a drive from Orange County to LA. Immediately into the drive I hear the whining noise behind me again, consistent pitch with the engine rpm's, and notice the car is "jumping" a lot when shifting. I call my shop and determine to keep driving because there was no bad smell, smoke, or rise in temperature. About 15 minutes later I pull off to fill up on gas. As I'm filling up the car vents fluid everywhere on the ground. It smelled like coolant but was coffee-like in color and kind of foamy too. I call the shop back and the recommend to bring it back immediately or have it towed. I drove it back most of the way but it got up to about 225F so I pull over and shut it down. I call the shop and they call a tow for me. As I'm waiting the car again vents the same substance. When the car is delivered to the shop the guy there sees the fluid on the tow truck and says "that's really bad." Indicating that the coolant and oil have apparently mixed somewhere in-line. From my limited knowledge I suggest that isn't this typically do to a cracked cylinder or engine block, and the guy at the shop agrees that it likely is and that my engine is most likely "done." He immediately begins to cover his tracks saying that this problem had nothing to do with what they were working on with the belt/tensioner, although he mentions that when the re-tensioned the belt that it may have been tighter than before causing the water pump to fail...again suggesting that this would have nothing to do with the work that they did. Now, I am not certain what is typical for a belt and tensioner repair, but they removed the alternator, power steering pump, a/c compressor, throttle body assy, intake tube, and power steering bracket. I suggest to the guy at the shop that it is much too ironic that I drive no more than 30 minutes after their work and my car basically shuts down and is "done" according to him.

I finally receive a call from the shop this afternoon, their message saying "good news" your car is fixed and ready to go. The apparent problem being a failed heater valve which caused the venting of the fluid. They, of course, want me to pay for it saying it had nothing to do with the work they did. I show up at the shop to pick up the car and get into a big argument with them about what happened. They agreed (sort of) to not force me to pay for the new work but blame me for the problem...car isn't properly maintained, they say the "log" indicated several recent overheats which I did not address. BS, I have never overheated in my car until yesterday after the work they did on it. I ask them about the oil in the coolant and say it was like that when I brought it in. Again, BS, there is no way...I know what coolant looks like and this is not what was in my tank...I see it often because I am in my trunk all the time. They say that they don't know why the coolant is contaminated with oil and that I didn't pay them to figure it out so they don't know. They also tell me, "we don't know what you put in your coolant system." Please, coolant you piece of sh....... So now they say that the car is "driveable" and make me leave the shop. They also refuse to give me the log readout saying that I didn't pay for it...even though I paid them $1100 yesterday for the work on the belt/tensioner. I drive home, again no more than a few miles, and there is obvious smoke coming from the engine area. The car is shifting really hard, but no noise anymore from the belt area. It appears they finally fixed the belt problem, but caused a myriad of other problems by not fixing it correctly the first time.

As of now I am really angry and suspsect that my car is likely going to really be done within the next few minutes or miles of driving. Do you have any suggestions as to what could have happened with all of this and what the relationship is between the work they did and the overheating? They insist it is completely unrelated, but I just can't believe that. I have driven this car for over 9 years with no major problems, and within minutes of leaving their shop I am stranded with an overheated engine and coolant contaminated with oil. I feel I will need to take my car somewhere else for evaluation but the thousands of dollars that it is going to cost for someone else to fix the problem seems and feels like it should be the responsibility of the shop that messed it up. Considering they had to escort me out of the building, I am sure they are not going to be willing to pick up the cost for another shop to repair, and I sure as hell am not taking it back to them to mess it up even further.

My speculation is that they did not reassemble the many parts they removed correctly. The belt was still making a sound on pick-up which makes me think that it was not running properly and that they obviously did not put something back together the right way. Is it possible that this led to the water pump not functioning which led to the overheating, which led to the heater valve rupture, and amongst all of this caused a crack in the cylinder/head? I am not familiar with what causes a cracked cylinder so please let me know if any of this could be related/relevant.

Another interesting note is that my service record yesterday included only the CEL codes they found (P1128, P1130) and the belt/tensioner problem...no mention of anything else. Don't you think they would have / should have noticed the coolant being contaminated with oil while doing all of this work, removal, replacement of parts? I know I sure would have if it was there.

Today's service record explains in great detail how the 90k mile service is due, the car is poorly maintained, engine oil is dirty, front motor mount clunks, coolant has contaminant, and oil seperator is incorrect for the car (996 instead of 986). In other words, they are obviously trying to cover their tracks. They were extremely defensive about the work they did, insisting that they could not have possibly done anything wrong...which again to me implies that they know they did something and don't want to fess up. BTW, this is a Porsche-only shop. Something else to consider is that they told me the initial belt/tensioner work would take ~6hrs to complete and I'd have the car back in a day. I got a subsequent call from them saying that the work was going to take more like 9-12 hrs of work and that it was much more complicated than they had anticipated, and two days were added to completion. This makes me think that they screwed some stuff up along the way and had to do some repair that they caused and didn't mention...probably leading to or contributing to the cyclinder/head crack, assuming that's what it is.

I am thinking to flush the coolant today and replace it just to see what happens, and how long it takes for the contamination to occur, and to what extent. Right now the coolant looks like coffee, so I assume it is highly contaminated.

I am really hoping someone can help me with this, at least to understand what has possibly happened to my baby and how I should proceed with this mess. Thank you so much for any help and insight you can give me.

Again, many thanks,

crwarren11

Orange County, CA

i had the p1128 and p1130 and mine was due to an AOS (air oil separator) gone to hell. i knew it was the aos since i had tons and i mean tons of smoke coming out of the exhaust at start up after shutting down when i saw the cel come on. i think the noise you may have been hearing is your waterpump going out and then causing the bearings and the belt to go with it... that would explain the overheating problem.. if the waterpump goes out it can cause the belt to break and the tensioners to get all messed up. i changed mine due to a minor leak and i mean minor (no fluid on the ground) just to prevent any major thing since it was gonna get replaced anyway in the future. my car only had 39k when i changed the waterpump and serpentine belt, and 40k when the aos went... so if you're at 90 i wouldn't be surprised that the waterpump and aos needs replacing... btw the waterpump and belt replacement was a diy and it took me and a buddy about 2 hours to complete with flushing out the coolant so i can imagine changing the belt and tensioner taking 12 hours...