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hmmmm, friend of mine has the larger one in stock, offered it to me dirt cheap if i can fit it. it is longer, i will try it tonight and report back my findings. i hope it works because the summers here are often over 100 and the car has a hard time staying cool with the a/c on, seems like holding more coolant would help..., also because it is brand new and dirt cheap.

I investigated more deeply and found a place that does paintless dent repair. They checked it out and said they can fix it no prob. $425

Could also be the clunky hesitant F1 gearbox that still isn't perfected in mass-produced cars. But for the sake of what this forum is about, Porsches have proven for decades that they can put the power down better. A friend of mine with a GT3 raced a Gallardo and a Z06 in an undisclosed area for about 25 miles, and donkey-stomped both of them....with less power than both of them.

Did a pretty complete search in the 996 section for this, and found nothing.

I have a 1999 996 Carrera 2, blacker than night.

I came out of a hotel in Vegas and find my hood wrinkled, looked like a 340 pound wrestler sat on it.

Supposedly it isn't that noticeable to people unless I point it out, I suppose because it is black.

So now I am faced with a dilemma, should I:

1. Replace it with a carbon fiber hood...since it is black, it should look pretty good.

2. Get the stock hood repaired (bondo?!?!)

3. Replace it with a new stock hood.

If anyone thinks I should get a carbon fiber hood (which is what I am leaning towards) does anyone have any good info on what to look for in one, or better yet, where can I buy one that will fit my car correctly.

Time out here - the car should NOT be driven with a flashing CEL. A flashing CEL means that damage may be done to the catalytic converters. At almost $1500 each (and there are two of them) I don't think you want to risk damaging them.

I limped it for 1/4 mile back to the garage once I determined it wasn't catastrophic engine failure. Haven't driven it since.

the car has had the secondary injection codes for some time, but the cel would only light once a month for a day or two. I think they were already in the history of the codes when i hooked up the diagnostic to it. I removed the coilpack from cyl. one and did find it cracked, and subsequently ordered 6 new coilpacks which are due to arrive via UPS from Sunset in Oregon any minute now....oh there's the bell at the front desk now.

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 1 - 3)

P1411 Secondary Air Injection Sy.stem - Signal Implausible (Cylinders 4 - 6)

Secondary air injection pump is not triggered.

Secondary air injection pump does not work.

Air supply lines restricted.

Electric change-over valve does not work.

Air change-over valve does not work.

Vacuum system leaks.

Possible causes:

- Wiring harness or fuse

- Relay

- DME control module

- Air supply lines

- Secondary air injection pump

- Electric change-over valve

- Air change-over valve

Are these are just for the sake of emissions? If so I don't think I am incredibly concerned with the dilution of CO.

1999 C2 Coupe 3.4 stock motor/trans

I just replaced all plugs last year.

Here are the codes I got, and I think I am only worried about two of them:

P0410 - sec air inj.

P1411 - emissions related?

P0301 - misfire cyl 1

P1313 - coil pack failure

I understand that the misfire on cyl one is most likely due to the coil pack failure. My questions are:

I don't think any of the coil packs have ever been replaced, is this a sign that the others are about to go?

Is it correct that Cyl one is the rear most on the driver's side?

What does a cracked/damaged coil pack look like, if there is any visible damage at all?

I can agree, when I jacked my car up from the engine for the first time (same way I used to jack up my 76 and 84 911's) the motor mount failed. I ordered new ones and it took about 30 minutes to replace both. The old ones were visibly destined to fail anyway, so I wasn't heartbroken. I don't use the engine to jack the car up anymore, just haven't had a reason to in the latest repair dealings.

Perhaps another valid point is whether you plan to do work on the car yourself or not. MKII 996 parts are significantly more expensive than MKI parts.

I have a problem with my speakers fading in and out. I have an aftermarket amp, and speakers. Could the amp be causing this as well?

Get ready for the oil guys to beat up on you now.... According to Porsche you have sinned...They are very sensitive about lubricants.. :lol:

Non-Synthetic?!?

Non-Mobil 1?!?!

SINNER!

Repent and change back to Mobil 1 15-50!!

I like the 996 MKI because it is the lightest of the 996's. Everything else about them really is all the same, little more power and creature comfort in the later ones. I would like to move up to a basic 997 S soon, I like the feeling of the raw power and the PASM.

glad he/you caught that it time...if you hadn't it would have been lights out for your 3.4

for mine?

no, the scavenger pump ceasing up would end it..not loose spark plugs

oh thank god

I agree that the brake pad sensors are a waste ot money, at $38 per for my C4S. The dealers and my Indy insist that I use new sensor cables even when I did not even break the connection with the old sensors by brake wearing into the connection. I guess it all comes down to liability, which beyond tires, is probably the only part of car repair that you can litigate. My indy replaced my front brakes (w/OEM) at 26K with still some left on the pad (I downshif regularly). Like it was said, you still need to replace the old rotors with each pad replacement, so what if you run the brakes into the rotors, all needs to be replaced anyway. However Porsche does not employ the chirp warning system. Anybody know how to bypass the brake sensor and not have the brake warning light stay on?

It is easier than I thought. There are only two wires, and if they are looped into many sections for the purpose of being wedged into the pads. you can pull them out of the pads and trace it back to where it is only two wires, snip it and connect those two wires with heat shrink, wire nut, whatever. do all four and the brake wear light will turn off. I just did this last weekend.

Turns out there's still about 50% left on them - I misread the wear - and the actual problem was a faulty brake sensor.

Thanks for the reply!

Well the brake wear sensor is either on or off, it is a pretty simple system that basically works by braking the connectivity of the wire. Perhaps the brake wear sensors were not installed properly. Sometimes, if the hole in the pad is bored too large, the sensor can come out and the line can be broken by something else.

These are really a no-brainer to install, and only consist of a few long pieces of wire jump by a few connectors that slip into your pads.

I personally think these are ridiculous expenses, especially since 9/10 times you have to buy new rotors when you change your brakes, unless you have slotted ones that can be turned without cracking. I snipped mine and jumped them, never to see that light come on again...I guess everyone is different though, I replace my pads after every track day...which is about 4-6 times a year for me, and change the rotors once a year (or so). Plus, I have the wheels off enough times a year that I can visually inspect them myself...I guess that's why I see the brake wear sensors as an unnecessary expense.

If they are not leaking into the spark plug channel or to the outside of the engine - then don't worry about them as they are likely the newer design.

In the Porsche engine design the spark plugs sit in the middle of the heads between the two camshafts - so the spark plug is kept seperate from the oil by the tubes. Besides you need to be able to access the spark plugs without removing the heads. Older VW and Porsche designs were similar except they ran the the lifter pushrods through oil tubes. (and they leaked too - LOL)

Thanks Loren, very to-the-point. As far as leaks, would I see a visible drip on the floor, or just a helluva lot of buildup in the spark plug tubes? Reason I ask, is that I changed my plugs 1.5 years ago and I remember cleaning oil gunk buildup off of a couple of the long skinny tubes that are connected to the coils. I thought it was just residual crap from the RMS that we discovered was leaking as well, which also never left a drop of oil on my garage floor. Car uses oil, but usually only after getting on it for a good while, like a long fast tour or a track day.

I remember the oil return tubes on my 76 911 used to leak, till I updated them with the extending ones.

Someone posted on rennlist about an inexpensive tool they got from Walmart for this job.

That was the first time I've heard of a spark plug tube, that leaks oil. Is that tube where the spark plug inserts into? Would someone care to enlighten me on the mechanics behind this tube? I'm just puzzled as to how a tube with oil would have anything to do with spark plugs? :huh: Is this specific to our Porsche engines, or does every engine has them? Sorry for my dumbness, but I've never heard of nor seen such a tube before.

+1, I too do not understand and would like to so that I can check my own.

I have a 99 996 and I love it. I track it, rally it, take the kids to school in it, even show it at some local shows. To mention engine failure on a MKI 996 is pretty irresponsible. It is true that engine failure happens to MKII 996's as well, so I really don't know what that was all about. Engine failure is inevitable if you hot rod the car constantly and don't keep up with maintenance, regardless of alleged design flaws. The thing is that when you get stung by engine failure, you usually make sure everyone in the world knows about it and feels your pain, so it is overblown in my opinion.

You are going to get a lot of opinionated responses in here, from don't buy it because of engine failure, to, buy it because it is the best one ever. I think a PPI will tell you a lot, make sure the records are verifiable, check the spacing between the exhaust tips and the rear bumper cover. 23k is pretty doggone cheap, and if the seller has a verifiable and good reason for selling it then why not?

well I suppose both of our responses are opinionated, but you won't really know if it is leaking until you pull the tranny. My car left no oil spots anywhere, but once pulling the tranny we found that the RMS had been leaking for some time. and I, too, have an engine that was replaced at 28k miles.

I'm looking at a 2002 C2 coupe w/ 70K miles listed by a Porsche dealer. In the course of due diligence they admit that the engine was replaced around 6/2005 at 35K miles because of RMS issues. The clutch needs to be replaced. While they have the tranny out, I was thinking to ask them to replace the RMS and IMS if there are updated seals and bolts. Has there been updated parts for the RMS and IMS since 6/2005 which would make sense to get installed? Does anyone know the part #s?

yes you shouls replace the RMS, not sure if an IMS replacement is available. Doing a search in the forum, perhaps the DIY section will get you the part numbers.

glad he/you caught that it time...if you hadn't it would have been lights out for your 3.4

for mine?

I had a squealy sound coming from my car as well, and the mechanics thought it was the pulleys too. But the sound was consistent even after removing the belt completely...turned out to be loose spark plugs.

Well, I admit that I am completely surprised that my spark plugs (2 of them) were in fact loose, and now that they are tight the squeaking noise is gone. Thank you times a million :renntech:

phillipj:

Wow, but then again not surprising. It is the mentality of many stealerships: "Can't figure it out...replace the motor." "No sir your warranty expired, $22,000 please."

dr914jr:

I really hope so too, I told a friend of mine here at work about your suggestion and he said if that fixes it, then you deserve a medal...I would have never figured that one out. And my attention has definitely been focused on that sound.