vizcarra44

I've tried everything mentioned but with no success. When I pull fuse on PSM control module ligt go off, then back on after a few seconds after putting fuse back in indicating to me it really thinks there's a fault somewhere. There are no error codes showing on code reader.

Any other suggestions ? Car runs great but lights stay on.

Are you using a diagnostic scan tool that is more than just basic? I would say at this point you need to analyze the Abs data and see if anything is out of the

normal.

vizcarra44

I was trying to pinpoint what the troble could be with my 2000 Boxster.Well in trying diffrent things I took the connections off the computer in the rear truck with the battery CONNECTED.Now I think I have shorted the computer out .It wont retain the the program tp make the car throttle up.It will start and run ok up to 1,600. RPM S The car needed a new fuel pump to get it to start now it starts fine but wont throttle.So where would be the best place to look for one of those computers .Any ideas or can I get this one repaired HELP .Thanks alot

I never came across a Dme that got amaged just cause you disconnected the connectors while battery is connected, maybe with the key on. Anyhow its always a possibility. Look at the attachment, and if you do need a dme well then if you do not have a Pst2 tester and Ipas codes then you are in over your

head. Of course there may be other causes for your problem but you need a good knowledge of how the engine management system works.

good luck,

vizcarra44

Here's some interesting Dme Data for all of you to have.

Riddle me this, why is it that it seems as if the car runs better when you disconnect the Maf and reset the dme. What is the

dme doing?

How would you find out if a misfire was caused by internal engine components or external engine stuff, just by looking at

the dme data?

vizcarra44

Are your sure that all the connectors are properly fit on the coils ?

Does code come back instantly on first test drive? Any driveability issues? Here is the Fault plan.

vizcarra44

Took my low mileage (8800 or so) 2002 996 to the shop this past Friday for yearly checkup. Once on the lift, the tech discovered corrosion on a corner of the engine case. Upon further inspection, he noticed some coolant in the same area (this would explain low coolant levels). His initial prognosis is defective engine case thus requiring a new engine :cursing: He said he has never seen such a situation before. Tech is guessing that just a tiny drop is leaking every once in a while and not dropping to the garage floor which is why I probably didn't notice.

I have an appointment with the dealer tomorrow morning for them to look at it.

I just wanted to see if you guys have heard of this happening before? I did a search on the forums but could not find a similar situation. I have no idea what the dealership is going to tell me given that my warranty has expired (plus I am the second owner (although I am not sure if that has anything to do with it)).

I know i should just wait and see what the dealer says but I am anxious and edgy and I thought you guys might have some advice I can use before I actually see the dealer (just the idea of having to pony up the $$$ for an egine replacement has definitely caused me some sleep issues these past few nights).

I remember at the dealer we had a couple of Pourous case issues, the Factory just had us use JB WELD to seal the pore.

vizcarra44

Been recently noticing (post spark plug change at 30k,but may just be coincidence) that MY03 Boxster S has been slightly sluggish at hard accelerations at random, not always the case. Also, it has randomly been having problems with idle oscillation. I've done the throttle body cleaning procedure and it wasn't that dirty, and I haven't noticed any changes. Just hooked it up to an OBD reader and am getting P1325. Anybody have any thoughts on potential fixes? Could any of this be related to the spark plug change?

Thanks for any advice.

-Brian

Its most likely a coincidence. I attached the code description and fualt plan.

Good Luck

vizcarra44

First of all thank you for the replys ... great to have a forum like this who has so much knowledge.

BUT Argh... When will my luck change with this Boxster :( 3. pretty big error on the car in under 1 month!

I also checked the car again and must admit it sounded a bit rotational to me - maybe I just really wanted to believe it was not!

But the car runs just fine and the actual engine makes no 'bad sound'.

1.

I am not very handy with a spanner so i cannot do those things you said + I dont know how to get to them, I have never had the enigne cover of myself - I simply do not dare and I am not sure where those belts are, but should I conclude that the car needs a visit to the mechanics again ?

2.

If this is rotational and it is a pump is it then either: idler, alternator, power steering pump or air-con compressor ?

And if so can the mechanics determine it with accuracy if they open up the car or will they have to replace part for part ?

3.

Where do I check the water pump like vizcarra suggested ?? I suspect it to be this because I just had a big coolant reservoir break down so maybe the water pump took some damage !?

4.

Is this a indication that a pump is allready 'dead' or that it is about to die ?

How much $$ does a pump repair like the one I seem to have cost ?

5.

Can I drive the car - I just had a pretty long high-way drive home yesterday where it performed just fine but should I keep it in the garage untill the mechanics has looked at it ?

Should I even get it towed to the mechanics ?

6.

I just added new rims, I like those... my current only highlight about this car :) Got xenon headlamps and new rear-lamps + black 3. brakelight :)

Thank you!

To do the water pump is not to bad, to get to this all you have to do is remove the carpet sound pad behind the seats and remove the ft engine shield, couple of 10mm bolts, then you have access to ft of engine and pulleys ect. I wouldnt drive this car to far before doing a complete inspection first. If your water pump goes it can cause some major problems. if you are not mechanically inclined go to a reputable shop and have them look at it. To isolate noises i would just use a very long screwdriver with the handle pressed against your ear and the tip of the tool on the suspected noise area.

I have attached some labor times from Alldata for t-stat, water pump replacement. Note that if your water pump is gone I would also have the T-stat replaced as well.

And make sure the shop that does the job knows how to refill the cooling system with the vacuum method.

good luck,

vizcarra44

Hi all,

I am going to tackle my clutch on my 99-996 c2 and was hoping someone had some advice on this. From what I can tell it seems to be a bolt off/bolt on job. Are there any adjustments that need done after replacing the parts?

Is the following seem to ba a complete list? I found it on ebay for $374

This complete clutch kit contains the following components:

SACHS Porsche OEM Pressure Plate

SACHS Porsche OEM Clutch Disc

SACHS OEM Release Bearing

SACHS OEM Release Bearing Kit

Genuine SACHS Clutch Kit Part #: K70246-01-14

If anyone has advice or knows where a nice detailed step by step is Iwould appreciate it.

Erik

Are you doing this on the floor? Cause its so much easier on a car lift. I dont recall any special adjustments needing to be made, put you will need the right clutch alignment tool. Good luck and have fun.

vizcarra44

98' Boxster, Tiptronic.

It's not very loud but I can hear it from inside in idle and when driving. It IS annoying... it's there all the time, fast or slow, but when driving 'fast' its hard to hear because the regular engine sound is much louder - hot or cold and it's pretty much the same noise, just a rattling sound... at first i though it was like a rotating sound but when I listen under the car I think it sounds more like a vibrating metal sound - I looked under the car tried to push some of the parts but I could not stop the rattle (I do not know what is what anyways)

At one point my mechanic said he welded the the one part of the heat shield because it was a bit loose in one corner...

I have made a recording where the sound is pretty obvious:

http://www.shooter.dk/rattle/rattle.wav

What do you think this sound is and can anyone recognize it from their car ?

Is this serious (engine), muffler or heatshield (I read about this a few times here) ?

Should I take this to the mechanic before I leave on a 2000km road-trip ? I just returned from him 2 days ago, but I did not mention this to him and he didn't say anything about it either...

How many of you live with a rattle

Kind regards

Morten

Maybe its the recording quality, but it sounds bad to me, check your water pump pulley to see if its moving side to side excessively.

vizcarra44

hi everyone,

I know this is my first post...but i've been reading this forum for awhile...and have learned alot...I'm a new owner of a 99 Boxster with 68K miles....and love driving my car! I'm really appreciative that people like me have people lilke Loren, Toolpants and Mike Focke to help us out when we have a problem....and sadly i have a problem now!

My CEL is on and I have the same 5 codes that skt had...

p1117 - oxygen sensor bank1 sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor Heating 1 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

p0140 - Oxygen Sensor After Catalytic Converter (cylinders 1 - 3) - Interruption of Signal

p1125 - cylinder 4-6 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 4 - 6) - Lean Threshold

p1123- cylinder 1-3 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Area 1 (Cylinders 1 - 3) - Lean Threshold

p1121 - Oxygen Sensor Heating 2 After Catalytic Converter - Below Lower Limit

After I read this thread, i went ahead and replaced my 2 oxygen sensors after the cat with the Bosch OE type (#13806). I got the parts online and had my local mechanic install them for me...I figured it's DIY so I didn't have to go to a Porsche mechanic...

Well, after a few miles of driving, the CEL came on again :( ...and i read the codes and got the same 5 ones....

Can anyone please help? I figure it might be my MAF and so might go ahead an clean it or replace it....but that doesnt explain P1117, P0140 and P1121.

Could it be my DME? Or maybe the contact/connection points where the oxygen sensors plug in are dirty?

Thanks in advance for any help and input. Maybe i should just throw in the towel now and bring it to my Porsche mechanic....but that will be costly i'm sure!

Cheers,

kane

ps: the car runs great...steady when idle, decent gas mileage as far as i can tell, starts right, steady and good power....

wow, I would like to show you guys how to test instead of guessing and throwing parts at the car. There can be so many possible causes, but you need a diagnostic plan and an understanding of how this engine management system truley works.

I am a professional Porsche Master tech and all this advise giving on maybe its this or that is impressing.

Take it to the dealer and have the shop foreman look at it. Last thing you want to do is make this car a money pit.

In short, if I take the car to a mechanic at this point, are they going to read the computer and get nothing out of it (except my $50)?

I have heard that you can go to your local auto parts house (kragen, autozone, etc) and borrow their code reader if they think you'll buy needed parts from them. That will at least save the money if there are no codes.

David

I never had a bad Maf cause a no start, but you never know huh. With a good Obd scanner you should be able to see if there are any pending codes, that have not matured yet. Also, when your cranking the car and its not starting, usually a code will not set due to the fact that certian systems need to be within particular thresholds to have the ecu monitor systems for problems. When using a basic scanner just look at the short and long term fuel trim, anything above

8% negative or positive is a problem. There are many different diag strategies for no code problems. You just have to find a tech who likes to troubleshoot.

Regards,

vizcarra44

'02 Boxster (986), manual, 50k miles

My CEL came on one hot day a few weeks ago. Thinking it might be the old "didn't tighten the gas cap" problem, I waited for it to go away. Later, I noticed some wandering idle (600-900 RPM), but only occaisionally. Then I noticed that when it was idling smoothly (when warm) it was idling near 1000 RPM, which seemed high.

In the middle of that 2 week span, I unhooked my battery and lost all of the error codes and the CEL. The CEL has not come back on, but the other symptoms remain. On two occaisions this week, the car took 3 tries to start. On the failed attempts, the engine seemed unable to reach high enough revs to sustain momentum.

Here's what the problem isn't: new battery, new alternator, new driver side window motor, new ignition switch (all within 5k miles), clean MAF (yesterday), Porsche 40k mile service. The only thing I haven't done yet is clean the throttle body. What do you think? Waste of time or possible solution?

Side question: how in God's name do you get the air supply OFF of the throttle body? Is it safe to pry with a screwdriver? I tried by hand and could only pivot it a degree or so. Side question 2: how do I get to the friggin' screws under the throttle body? Is there a trick, or do I just have to be persistant with an allen wrench and take my frustrations out on an inanimate object?

Please help.

- Chris

Hello Chris,

I am a former Porsche tech and I never saw a dirty t-bdy cause a check engine light, now the wandering idle yes. I would look at the dme data to see how the

Rkat fuel trim looks as well as the Lambda values and Maf value. It gets expensive guessing I imagine. I am a firm believer in proper diagnosis, not just parts replacement, so when people start to tell you it might be this or that, take that advise at your own risk. Now for the air duct to come off, I just used a twist and

pull at an angle step, with a little umpff. to get the clamp loose, I used to use a swivel 1/4 ratchet with i believe a 7 or 8 mm socket.

regards,

vizcarra44

Typically, with the needle to the right of the "0", your coolant is sitting at 215F+.

Sorry for my ignorance, but what does that mean exactly?

It means that your coolant temperature is 215F+ when the gauge is sitting just to the right side of the "0" in 180.

Factory spec is 90-95 C

vizcarra44

I have a 2006 C4S that I purchased in June of 2006. I currently have 9,000 miles on it and just recently I've had problems with the car hesitating. The first time, I was getting on the highway and it happened. I tried downshifting and pushing the accelerator which did nothing. Two minutes later it stopped. i dismissed it as bad gas.

Three weeks later the same thing happened only this time it went on for 20 minutes before I got off the highway. I stopped an hour for lunch and then got back on the highway. The probelm continued. I got off the highway and went to my dealer. I explained the problem and they said it was probably bad gas (I only put high octane in it). It was a Saturday so I had to leave it there over the weekend until service opened on Monday. When I called on Monday, they said they drove the car and had no problems. They checked the computer and had no fault codes (Which did not surprise me since there was no error on the dash when I was driving it). I took the car home and had no problems until last night (about 3 weeks from the last time) when the same problem occured a few miles from home. I parked it over night, and when I drove it to work this morning it was fine. I know looking at some past postings about a year ago there were comments about a vacuum issue with the fuel cap. Some had experienced the probelm again after taking the cap off and putting it back on after running the engine. Is this really the solution? Everytime it happens, pull over, take the gas cap off, run the engine, put the cap on and continue? Seems a little crazy. Has anything new been identified as the possible cause. Thanks for any help.

Glen

Greetings:

I have a 2006 C2S... 2843 miles. When I first purchased the vehicle I had a hesitation issue or more like " Cugging " on 2 occasions. I was told this is most likely when the fuel is at 1/4 tank. I now always keep my tank full and have not had the problem since. I also use an octane boost once in a while, maybe every 3rd or 4th tank. Does that help, that's up to debate. However by keeping my tank on the full side I have not experienced any " Chugging " .

Chromedome, North County San Diego

Seems to me you have a gremlin in your car. Sometimes the dealer will not look further when they cant duplicate the situation, has to do with warranty not paying them for deep diagnosis time. any how make friends with the Shop foreman and get him involved so that maybe he starts to send some Ptec's in to porsche on your situation, I would personally hook up a scan tool with flight recording ability and graph the dme data for analysis, unfortunately the dealer scan tool does not have this ability.

vizcarra44

Thanks Loren at least I can make sure they are doing that, I hopefully will be talking with he Lead Tech soon. LA Porsche said that the car that the DME was out of was hit on the oppisite side, but since it still communictes I think the DME is alright. Just guessing here. And thanks for the qwik reply.

Just curious, why do you need or want a dme that is wrong for your car? The dealer guys Know what there doing, and if they said there waiting on you for a response-- doesnt make sense, they have factory engineers via Ptec avialable to answer any and all there questions. Maybe they are just dragging this out.

hope i don't get blasted for replying but I just had these codes and mine was related due to a cracked seal in the oil filler cap...

So check your oil cap and the cap for the petrol first.

do we have an update?

First off, If your going to take it to get fixed, make sure he is a technician not just a parts changer, things can get expensive if its not diagnosed properly.

The Tech should first analyze the dme data and look for the tell tale signs of rich or lean condition, for lean condition I would then procede to look for vacuum leak, oil filler cap as Chris said, and If you dont have a smoke machine, use propane around the intake, oil separator ect. and look at the o2 signals for rich

reading, high voltage close to .800 1.0 volts. If no leak then most likely it is your Maf. By the way to test an O2 sensor to see if it is Biased Lean all you have to do is create a rich and lean condition and see voltage transitions, usaully with O-scope, transition time should be less than 200 milliseconds. if no transition then you have a dead o2 sensor. The tech should do a hard reset after erasing codes to reset the adaptation values back to 0.00

vizcarra44

itzbob46-

just sent you a PM about the Bentley manual which IMHO is pretty good. Enjoy your new to you Boxster.

poses is more complete, not only for 1 model.

My saga continues.

Yesterday I did some additional checks.

First let me confirm that the current drain I'm reading is 2.5 Amps. I'm measuring it with a multimeter across the negative battery post. I removed each and every fuse (not one at a time but all together just to be sure) from the main fuse block and the reading dropped to about 2.3 Amps.

So what next?

From what I can gather from searching this forum the next logical step would be to try disconnecting the alternator. Does anyone know if the alternator is fused or exactly where the simplest location would be to disconnect it?

The only other idea I had was that it might be a Boomerang alarm system draining the battery. I know that the previous owner of the car originally had a Boomerang installed that he later cancelled. I'm assuming that he probably just cancelled the service with Boomerang but never disconnected or removed the unit from the car. Does anyone know where these alarms are typically installed on the car or where they typically draw power from? Myself I have no idea where to look for it or what it even looks like.

I should also add that I replaced the ignition switch a couple of months ago. I had the typical symptom where the radio would sometimes stay on after the key was removed. All is fine since I replaced the switch, and in either event I don't think it could be my problem because I assume all of the switch connections are fused.

Let me say that this car is my first Porsche and the help that this forum has provided me on several occasions has been invaluable. I love the car and this forum has helped make the whole Porsche experience so far very enjoyable. Without this forum, I would have probably ended up bringing my car to the dealer for every little problem that I've had. I can say with absolute certainty that if that would have been the case this would have been my first and last Porsche.

The alternator needs to be disconnected at the alternator itself, What can happen is the diode pack within the alternator fails (Diodes only allow current in one direction) the alternator in this failed state then draws current like an electric motor.

It is a lot more technical than this explanation but this is the gist as i dont know how familiar you are with auto electrics.

You will also have to trace any additional equipment added to the car

Agian if you had the right tool you would be able to diagnose this problem quickly, the dvom is not the way to go. Now to isolate this draw without having to remove the alternator I would first remove the connector to the ignition switch, pin 50 is excite voltage to alternator. If draw is gone then it is your alt. If not then I would take off engine cover and right by the power steering resevior is the Terminal 30 permanent B+ disconnect that to isolate if draw is from alt or something in the engine compartment. Agian if draw is not from alternator, check your alarm module under seat, sometimes the connectors get corroded and cause a draw, also pull the fuse and check for corrosion.

vizcarra44

Would anybody be interested in how to truley interpret the Dme data such as what does the Lambda value really tell you. Example values for 996-986 dme values, understanding what TRA and RKAT's truley mean.

How to find out if a misfire is caused by internal engine components or external engine items.

I used to be a Porsche Dealer tech, now retired from that, but I do miss the challenge of diagnosing engine performance issues or electrical problems.

I live in the L.A. South Bay

Any one who needs help, just contact me. I have access to piwis tester and friends in dealer and Texa scan tool to help Porsche guys out.

vizcarra44

vizcarra44@yahoo.com

Shoot, so it may still be under the battery... guess I will just have to start tearing the car apart and looking for this thing. ;)

David

Picture of the top of the gas tank next to the sending unit on my 1997 Boxster. Battery tray removed for the picture.

No sensor there - but I have a 1997 and I don't think 1997 had this sensor.

But if the part you need to replace is #5 in the diagram I do not think it would not be under the battery tray.

Hello guys,

As I remember the tank pressure sensor is on top of the fuel tank to the drivers side, that would be right of the fuel pump.

Now you gotta have small hands cause its a buger to replace. Now you might find that the wire harness going to it is chewed up by rats. This was always the case. So it might not be the sensor after all. as for the diagram, its not always truthful. Being that you say the light returns tells me its a wiring problem.

vizcarra44

vizcarra44@yahoo.com

So I did the fast flush as described above last night and will know if it fixed my high heat issues this afternoon on the way home from work. It ran on the right edge of the zero on the 180. But now there is a red flashing light on the right side of the temp guage. Any ideas?????

Most likely there is too little coolant in the tank. Make sure you properly purge air from the system. It may take several fills of the tank to do so. Best way is to park the car after driving it with the nose down and the purge valve open, or drive around with the valve open.

The proper way is to use the vacuum fill method, I never had a problems using this. the tool is made by UView and is called AirLift, snap-on or matco tools sells it under different name. any how a blinking light? I would first pressure test the cooling system and look for signs of leakage. To refill if you do it any other way its the wrong and long way.

Any body in South Bay L.A. area need help with this, no problem, Id like to help out for free.

vizcarra44

Master Tech

vizcarra44@yahoo.com

So I did the fast flush as described above last night and will know if it fixed my high heat issues this afternoon on the way home from work. It ran on the right edge of the zero on the 180. But now there is a red flashing light on the right side of the temp guage. Any ideas?????

Most likely there is too little coolant in the tank. Make sure you properly purge air from the system. It may take several fills of the tank to do so. Best way is to park the car after driving it with the nose down and the purge valve open, or drive around with the valve open.

Wow, lots of instructions for a simple job. First off, the blinking light is most likely caused by a bad coolant bottle. As a tech I would first pressure test the cooling system, use a mechanics mirror to look at the bottom of the bottle for leaks or at least traces. flushed cooling systems, you only do this when you have some horrible problem such as oil and coolant mix.

Second, to properly refill a cooling system, yes you must only use the vacuum fill method. The company who makes the tool is called UView (Air-Lift) and it is rebadged and sold by snap-on, matco tools, or online at toolsource.com

Anybody in L.A. area who ever needs help with this, no problem it would be nice to make new friends.

Hi CJ,

I used to be a Porsche Tech not to long ago, I am a certified Master tech and smog tech. Now I work for a company developing european scan tools.

I am a technical guy, I love diagnostics. I can help you if youd like, our diag tool not only does porsche but all other euro cars too.

The durametric in my technical opinion is only good for code look up and erasure, but for real diagnosis its a joke.

I live in the South Bay area of L.A.

vizcarra44

vizcarra44@yahoo.com

Please re-read the board rules and guidelines that you agreed to when you registered here. Commercial posts are not allowed nor is flaming individuals or companies.

If you did not work for competing company your comments would be just "your opinion" - being that you do work for a competing company it is a flame and will not be tolerated in the future.

If you believe your company makes a better tool then by all means tell us what it can do. Better yet send an evaluation to one of our staff to be reviewed and evaluated.

This particular thread is intended to be a Registry of folks willing to help other (for free) with the diagnostic tool(s) that they have whether it be PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric Software. In the future if you wish to discuss a new or different tool - please start a new thread. Thank you.

So I take it that you are part of the Staff. Or a senior Renntech member. I have noticed that you have written very highly of the other scan tool. Any how I am not trying to sell a scan tool to porsche aficionados. I would like to offer my help to any one in the L.A. area with any type of Diagnostics since I am a Porsche Certified Tech / A.S.E. Certified Master Tech as well. I miss troubleshooting and would just like to help for free. I dont own porsche, but I love to fix hard engine performance and electrical problems.

vizcarra44

vizcarra44@yahoo.com

This problem is why I reached out. It seems unusual. Client bought car in Fla then drove it up North. obviously on highway it's ok. But, with fan speeds not working car overheated as they slowed down in traffic. Tester cannot get speed one or two to work. engine fan works. fuses are ok. WAS hoping someone heard of this problem. ****, one day I'll get a break on one of these diagnostic problems, without doing the work myself:-) thanks for helping anyway-Mark

Mark Im just curious, do you hear the fan relays clicking at all when you activate the fan.

Also, are you a tech?

On another forum we have a thread like this,

People who own a PST2 & Durametric tool and wouldn't mind helping fellow p-car owners in your area that are in need of PST2 & Durametric tool diagnosis, Please Post here the city of your location and which device you have and weather not you'd be willing to plug your tools into a local fellow p-car owners porsche.

Currently Im looking for someone in the Los Angeles or Orange County area with either device to diagnose and clear the code for my airbag light.'

Hopefully we have many people here willing to help others in there neck of the woods.