yizzung

This is very old, but I followed these instructions this weekend. In my 2001 996, there is an additional low voltage connector attached to a small switch inside the console. I think this switch tells the security system that someone has pried open the locked storage area. Since this item was not mentioned in the instructions, I pulled out my console and broke the switch. At the end of the day, no big deal. I don't put anything valuable in here, but take note if you have the security system option in your car that this part is missing from the instructions...

Mine were fine and didn't need replacing. You could probably buy them separate or have them do it for you.

Old window was 36x16 .... new glass one is 35.5 x 12. How badly do you miss those extra 4 inches of height?

Where does the wiring harness attach, and where do you install the new switch to turn the rear defogger on and off Are there already extra harness plugs and operation "button holes" on the car?

Any worries about the heating element making the glass hot and over time weakening the glue bond between the glass and the canvass, putting you back to square one needing replacement again? Or is there a more high tech bond than just glue?

How long has your new top been installed and can you offer any additional comments about how well it operates and if any problems have cropped up?

I'd be lying if I said that I didn't miss the height. There's not as much visibility out the back but (a) I keep my top down almost all the time and (B) it's primarily lost in the height and not the width. So while driving I don't really notice at all. I am more careful when backing up now though.

Having said that, it's glass! When I was backing up before, all I could see was blurry blobs out of my hazy plastic. Now, I have glass...

No worries about glue because this top is double stitched. You can't see it in my pics but check this one out: http://www.gahh.com/PHOTOGALLERY/996-glass3.jpg

Also, this top has a 3-year mfg warranty.

As for the defroster, I actually didn't want it. The installer said that it comes with it and I got no discount by turning it down, so he went ahead. I asked the same question: "Where is the button going to go?" He pointed to my dash and demonstrated to me that I already had the button in my "horseshoe". I guess they are there by default to work with the hardtop? In any case, not an issue. The only extra part was the wiring harness and they hooked it up as part of the install.

I have not had the new top long enough to know about any issues. (2 weeks.) In the first two weeks, you cannot put the top down at all. The canvas needs time to stretch. I will take the car back next week and they'll fine tune all the adjustments. My installer warranties all the mechanics of the top. (Not the canvas but the actual mechanical top, since they had to take it apart). So if anything breaks or rattles or falls apart, they will fix it, no questions asked. It's like an extended warranty for my top...

That's about all I know. You might try contacting GAHH and asking if they have recommended installers in your area. Or call the dealer and ask them where they outsource their cabrio work.

Let me know if you have other questions.

If you can swing it, I think it's the way to go. The guys who did my top gave me a few options. They offered to replace the plastic with (a) this new polymer that doesn't scratch as easily and (2) sew it into the canvas rather than glue it, as had been done at the factory. This should prolong the life but since my canvas was already pretty worn I opted for glass.

Here's some pics...

Sorry if this is a dumb question... Where is Henry's?

Makes sense that it would work, somehow, on a 2001 996 as the instrument cluster on a 996 did not change until 2002. On the 1997-2000 Boxster we would just turn on the ignition - did not need to start the car.

The a/c control unit is from an Audi. The LCD display goes bad. There is a guy selling just the LCD for Audi. I asked if it would also work on a Boxster and now he sells it as an Audi/Boxster LCD. But I do not know of anyone who has actually tried to replace the LCD on a 996/986. If you want to give it a try or donate the defective display to me and I will try it - let me know.

Tool Pants, I'm in the South Bay. I could meet you somewhere with the defective unit. Feel free to PM me.

The seal around my plastic window is getting worn out. I'm thinking about getting a new one. I don't know how much it would be getting a brand new at the dealer. The other option is to buy one on Ebay for $600 and get somebody to replace it for me. Has anybody replaced their top themselves?

Kristian

I can't tell if you as asking about getting a new window or an entirely new top. I just replaced my whole top. $2,000 for the top and $1,000 for labor. Included a brand new headliner and wiring harness for the defrost. Had a local guy install this top:

http://www.gahh.com/product_info.php?cPath...roducts_id=1575

Glass window, defrost, factory color-matched, A5 canvas top. Next best thing to OEM; 3 year warranty. The place that I used offers a lifetime warranty on their work, which means that if anything mechanical ever fails on the top from here on out, they will fix it (even if it wasn't their fault). So, there's like a baked in warranty. Looks great and I never have to worry about polishing my plastic window again...

Have any mortals out there without a glove box attempted this method or must we pop the heads off the screws? I too am not a fan of brute force techniques...

I got it to work. I have no idea if this made any difference but I tried starting the engine and did the same sequence. For whatever reason, it now switches easily back and forth. My old unit was dated 2000 (I have an '01) and the "new" replacement unit was actually older than mine but had a functional LCD. It was dated 1999, came out of another C2. Anyway, thanks for all the input.

I had a crap LCD on my old climate control, popped in another unit which works like a champ but is in celsius. I searched all over for how to change to fahrenheit. I found the [recirculation] and [+] trick but that didn't work for me. I guess this means that I need a PST2 to code the changed hardware? Dumb question: does this mean I have to go to the dealer or indie mechanic to have this done? I'm guessing this takes 30 seconds but they are going to charge me $50 to do it... Any way to avoid this cost? (I don't mind leaving it in C but I would prefer it to be consistent with the outside temp, which is in F.)

I lost two on an Audi allroad and the parts alone were on the order of $6,000. Lots of platinum in there...

Local independent just fixed mine with a recharge. $120. He also injected fluorescent dye so that next time they can determine from where it might be leaking.

Just sold two cars privately. One buyer brought a cashier check from Wells Fargo. The other brought a "Blank Check" from Capital One. I felt fine about the cashier check and signed over the title on the spot. Was less happy with the Capital One check as you must later call to verify funds. So, he gave me partial cash and I gave him the car but not the title. Next day, funds were verified and the check cleared fine so I Fedexed the title.

I went on all test drives. In California, your insurance follows the car. I don't know about other states. So, if any of these guys wrecked my car it's my insurance that would have covered it. (I know this for a fact as my wife's friend wrecked our Audi and our insurance took the hit despite the driver having insurance.) IMO, people don't need to dog a car to get a good feel for it.

Another food-for-thought item: I took both of my cars to the dealer to get a trade-in value. With that information, I checked all comps on craigslist and cars.com. Then I basically undercut the competition while paying myself a premium over my trade-in values. The net result: I "paid" myself about $4,500 more than I would have earned on trade-in and I sold both cars in less than a week. I could have probably gotten more but I'm not a car salesman. I have a day job and it wasn't worth the hassle to put up with weeks of test drives and no-shows...

Good luck