2Fast996

But I'm covered by GEICO!! No caveman style allowed here

Intermittently over the past couple of months the remote would fail to lock and/or unlock the doors leaving me to do so manually. The key otherwise worked the ignition normally. Today, the key remote would not longer lock nor unlock the doors at which time I noticed the light on the remote not blinking upon pressing the button. After changing the battery I remain with a remote that does not lock nor unlock the doors however, works the ignition normally.

Upon pressing the button to lock/unlock I see one blink of the red light. If my memory serves me correctly there used to be a very fast continuous blink of the red light while depressing the button. I am out of town with the car and only one key for a lengthy period of time so I have no way of verifying with the other key.

Any input? I have searched and reviewed until my eyes hurt. Perhaps I have missed something.

The change at or near 3000 rpm has been explained to me as the variocam system.

Rear of engine is toward the front of the car. Front of engine is staring at you when you lift the engine cover. Do some searching on here and you will find some posts with pics and much, much more information than I am capable of describing.

Hello folks.....,

Please folks don't laugh at me but when you are talking about RMS.....where is located the rear of the engine.I mean i can find once in a while a oil drip on the garage floor and the drip is located closer to the middle of the car then near the rear bumper. Could it be a RMS leaking or if the drip should be near the rear bumper.Is the rear of the engine located face to the rear or to the front of the car.

My car is a 1999 tip with 70K.

Thanks

Robert

A board member and now my new best friend :D helped me tackle this project. As I was under the dash I was able to get a 10mm box end wrench around the head of the bolt which is on top and I had Chuck hold pressure reaching through the vent hole so I could get the nut started and then tighten with a 1/4" drive from the bottom. Pelican has the steering lock mechanism for $138. I was able to negotiate $120 from a dealer. I needed the part "now" as I am out of town with the key stuck in the ignition and no garage.

The entire job took 3 hrs 45 min with some time for cussin and bitchin.

Thank you for a great diy. When trying to reinstall the 10 mm bolt be careful not to drop the bolt into the support channel (don't ask me how I know fishing inside the channel with a magnet)

I would suggest that you reinstall the 10 mm bolt. I don't feel that the aluminum pin is sufficient to hold the lock in place if there was someone pulling on the steering wheel while it is in the lock position. Try wrapping a piece of electrical tape on your finger inverted with the sticky side out. Place the nut on the tape and finger tighten from the top as much as possible. The nut has a serrated washer built in. Try pushing the nut against the steering column and tighten with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You will eventually be able to finally tighten only from the top with the ratchet. Good luck.

I am currently mobilized to Augusta, GA and am due for a brake fluid change. Anyone in the area with a Motive Power Bleeder feel like assisting me with this project??? :rolleyes: I'll provide the beer for our human consumption and the ATE fluid for my girl

Send a PM as I will get it quicker

Have you checked the tire pressures? I have noticed the same symptoms if there is a 1psi difference between the rears.

Thanks Loren :renntech:

I have a MY03 Targa with 56,500 miles and love the car. The main reason I chose the Targa was for the rear hatch making the back area much more accessible. I have not experienced any leaks however, do have a slight "rattle" when driving on rough surfaces. There is a TSB on this condition so you might want to check if it has been performed on the car you are considering.

Forgor to mention; as far as I have found there is no roof bike rack for the Targa :(

I have done multiple searches and can not find the images for a rear bumper cover removal. :o

Can someone point me in the right direction?

I will be changing my spark plugs this week as routine maintenance. Am I correct in assuming that my coil packs are OK if I am getting no CEL and there are no cracks? I am currently at 56,500 miles. How long should they last or do they usually last? Anything else I should consider while in the area?

Has anyone experienced any loss of torque and/or power due to this? I am considering this only as an inexpensive "sound" mod rather than a gain in power. I am concerned however, at the thought of messing around with the physics of the exhaust on this auto.

Knowledgable replies appreciated.

Am I correct in assuming that the picture on the left is the type I mod while the picture on the right is the type II mod?

Sears #6 Screw Extractor as per Loren's referenced post worked great for me. I now have a couple extra OEM plugs on my shelf as they are cheap. I change them when needed.

I have been happy with the Michelin Pilot Sport II although they do get quite loud toward the end of their life.

apmilano,

Welcome to the group. You will find, as I have, that there really are no dumb questions here. The group is very helpful and can and will offer assistance when it is available.

What you are describing is most likely the coolant tank. Do a search for those terms and you will find some pics in a DIY. Be careful with what you add to the tank as it is fluid specific as I have read on this forum. ie: do not mix coolant types.

Jared

Looks great. I really like the custom trim piece.

Mike, I apologize. The tensioner pulley bolt on my non-turbo comes in from the front of the car toward the rear through the tensioner pulley itself. The bolt on mine actually is removed after the tensioner pulley is removed. Perhaps mine is not the same.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;hl=tension*

See post #4 for graphic on non-turbo

Assuming that the turbo is the same as the non-turbo. I left the bolt in, cleaned it, added new loctite and put the new pulley on. Approx. 6,000 miles later and no problems.

I routinely leave mine unattended for two weeks at a time with a battery tender plugged into the lighter plug and have never had a problem. I left a BMW for 3 1/2 months one time with the same battery tender and was happy to return to a charged battery. It is my understanding that discharging the battery too deeply will have a negative effect.

Sounds like how projects have gone for me lately. We must have gone through the same dumba$$ apprenticeship.

Enjoyed your story and glad that you can now laugh at yourself. It is good medicine ..... the beer helps too

I love black cars ......... I hate black cars ......... I love black cars ........... **** black car!!! AAAHHHHH!

The antistatic effect will make your car faster and less vulnerable to radar :thumbup:

Other ways may work however, my experience has been to clay the car then wax and polish using a Porter Cable buffer.

Zaino and Poor Boys have worked great for me. This may be overkill but will usually give you the best outcome.

You may want to check with whoever painted the car to see what they would charge.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=18217&hl=

Read this posting as it most likely contains most of the information that you are searching for. Also search the TSBs for "targa".

Someone else may be able to help with a diagram.

Hello All

Can some body help me in picking up a correct and perfect radar detector. So many choices!

Thanks :huh:

There is no question...... the valentine is the best unless you want to spend $ 1000 to have one wired into front and back of car . The valentine can be upgraded by sending it in as needed. check their site http://www.valentineone.com/

I have the K-40 hardwired in with front and rear detectors and a Valentine-1.

The V-1 gives a more advanced warning than the K-40.

B e a u t i f u l !!!!!