sobefun

The doors on my 2004 955 have developed a problem opening.

The symptoms are:

Interior and exterior door handles will not open the door when pulled.

If I push the outside of the door until I hear a click, the door will then open fine (via interior or exterior handles)

This issue does not occur 100% of the time, but is currently occurring on on 3 of the doors.

I am looking for advice on the possible cause for this problem and if possible the potential fix.

Thank you

Thanks for the tip.  Moving the lines did the trick.

Hello,

I am in the process of replacing the thermostat on my 2006 Cayman S and am stuck on the bolt that is obstructed by the exhaust. Do any of you have experience to offer on the best method to remove the bolt and reinstall one properly using a torque wrench?  From what I can see, the obvious choices are: use a special configuration of extensions/universal joints, remove the header, or move to water lines. 

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Greets,

My 2004 CTT has developed an occasional noise/behavior related to the drive-train. It often occurs in stop and go traffic, after accelerating from a stopped position and becomes evident in the 20-35mph range. The sound starts with a low roar and will continue until I lightly tap the breaks as which there is a pronounced thunk sound. After the thunk, the roaring stops. This issues has existed before and after the Differential, Transfer Case, and Transmission fluids were changed.
To aid with the diagnosis, I put a recording device under the front passenger floor mat and drove around until I could reproduce the issue. The attached audio file has both the roar (beginning at 17 seconds) and the "Thunk", which happens around 33 seconds.)

Anyone have any insight into what could be causing this behavior?

Thanks

 

roar then clunk 2004 955TT.mp3

Getting there.. (I hope)..

So far, I have cleaned the airbox and used a scope to peer into the areas where I could not see and got all the gunk out.

The screen on the MAF was about 60% blocked by the gunk and I did not see much evidence that the gunk made it past the 2nd screen which is tighter than the first.

Replaced the air filter.

Replace the MAF with a new unit.

Cleaned the throttle body.

Replaced o-ring for MAF and o-ring for the throttle body.

Cleaned the inside of all connecting boots and as much as the intake as I could while the throttle body was out.

The car fired up without a problem and idled pretty well, but after 20 seconds or so threw a P0300 and P0301.  I shut it down immediately and checked the errors with the durametric.

Here's what It says for the 301 Misfire message.

Should I proceed to check the coil pack on cylinder 1 or may there a remaining issue left over from the failed filter?

Yes sir. This is going to require a serious cleaning.  I'll be ordering a new MAF and filter today.  Do you know if it is possible to remove the airbox without dropping the engine?  I want to ensure I get every spec of the BMC filter out, which will be much easier if I can remove the filter housing.

Starting down the rabbit hole.  It turns out the BMC air filter has suffered a catastrophic failure. The red plastic on the ends of the filter has basically disintegrated. I'm hoping for the best as I clean the airbox and intake. The PO must have installed the filter when he/she installed the Fabspeed exhaust.  NEVER will I use a BMC product after seeing this level of failure.

Thank you for the suggestions.

I have checked the exhaust and do not see any sign of leaks.  Also, non of the fasteners are loose.

Before getting into the engine I thought it best to hook up the durametric and log from starting the car to when the motor shuts down. Does the attached log indicate an obvious failure of a device such as the MAF?

3-6-21 Cayman Starting log.csv

2006 Cayman S with 56k miles and Fabspeed exhaust with sport cats.

Took the car out for a morning ride and the CEL came on.  Brought it home and pulled the codes.  Now the car will start, but rough idle and then shut off within a few seconds. With the multiple codes, I am looking for advice on where to begin in the diagnostic process.  The codes are:

P1133

P1126

P2177

P2187

P2179

Also, I have attached a photo of the engine that may provide a clue as to what is wrong with the car.

Thanks in advance

After sitting overnight, my 04 CTT's engine shut off after leaving the driveway and now will not start. I started the car, drove around 400 feet at 5mph and did not notice anything strange until the engine simply shut off (with no odd sound or behavior).  After stopping the car, I attempted to start it and although it cranks fine, it will not fire or start.

A little background that may have something to do with this issue. I have recently picked up the pig from the Porsche dealer after having the two power plug connectors (on each fuel pump) replaced as well as the fuel tank flange with pressure regulator (per recall).  Drove 8 miles to a Costco for gas, then to another store and then home.  This issues started the next day when I went to drive the car.

The passenger fuel pump is also very new.

So far, I have checked the two fuses for the fuel pumps and neither is open.

I have also did the fuel pump fuse switch out procedure in order to isolate each of the fuel pumps. 

I checked with an ODB reader and do not have any codes.

Anyone have an idea as to where I should check next or what the problem may be?

While cleaning the driver side footwell of my 06 987.C, I found two parts.  The clip still has a bit of melted plastic from the part it was mounted on. I have no idea about the metal rod.  Any ideas? 

Hello,

During a recent drive in my 01 986, I noticed a fairly loud whistle/moan that was emanating from the front/passenger side of the car.  I also noticed the smell of fuel.  Upon a closer investigation, I traced the sound to the fuel tank vent valves and the surrounding area.  After a bit of research, I have the following to report...

If I loosen the gas cap while the engine is running, the whistle/moan sound will stop.

During a short drive (while the car is starting to warm up), I stopped at a gas station to fuel up and the car would not start (turned over fine). I then took the cap off, tried to start it, then put it back on, it started.

The sound has been traced to the item B in the attached photo.

If I unplug item A, then the sound will stop.  If I plug item A with my finger, then item B will start making the sound.

Other than the sound issue, I cannot determine which part may be faulty.  Could it be the Fuel Tank Bleeder Valve (Item A), or another part?  I'd like to get your opinions prior to replacing parts by the process of elimination.  Comments and/or additional troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Kevin

Hello,  After moving my 01 Boxster from the driveway, I noticed a piece of rubber on the ground.   The rubber piece located on the ground directly under the engine.   In the attached image, the inside of the curve is part of the design, as well as the outside of the curve.   The ends are where the rubber was torn.  

The thickness of the rubber is approx 5.1mm

Does anyone have an idea as to what part this piece of rubber could belong to?

Hello,  I am wondering if anyone knows how to remove a 986 roof trim piece (#16 in the attached part diagram).  I don't see any screws, but there is a rivet.  It would be nice to remove the trim piece without causing any collateral damage. The diagram is from illustration 811-13 of the Porsche PET katalog. 

Recently, my front driver's side control arm link (986.341.043.03) snapped and needs to be replaced. I have removed the broken part and now would like to install the replacement. In my initial attempt, I was able to get the part partially installed, but was unable to get each end of the control arm lined up with the mounting points so they would accept the bolts. Does anyone know of a procedure for replacing this part of the front suspension?

Hello,

I am in need of a part number for a white, plastic clip that is used to fasten the bottom seat upholstery to the base of the seat. This part slides onto a rail, which is sewn onto the seat leather and then the clip is pushed through the cushion where it clips onto the base of the seat.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. A photo has been attached. Please note this part has been damaged and is missing one of the barbed pieces.

Kevin

I'm considering replacing the seat leather on my 986 with a kit from one of the online vendors, but would like to first review a set of instructions or tutorial on the replacement process. Unfortuantly, I have not been able to locate anything relevant. Do any of you know of a good resource for such information?

Thanks Maurice... Would you mind checking the link again? I clicked on it, but recieved a "Page not found" message.

Help! My 2001 Boxster top will not raise all the way. This began to occur as an intermittant problem, but now it seems to have become permanent. When I attempt to raise the top, the clamshell will rise about 10 inches, then halts. I can move it back down, but when going back up, it stops at the same height. I am thinking it could be one of the microswitches. Does anyone have an idea as to what I should be looking for?

Please assist

Kevin

That's the plan, first thing in the morning :-)

Thanks. I'm basically in downtown Miami :-(

Well, now that I'm back from travels, it's time to finish the project.

Here's what I have done so far.

Replaced the AOS and the tube that runs from the AOS to the intake.

In the process, cleaned the intake (where I found quite a bit of oil).

Changed the oil and did not see any sign of coolant.

Checked the coolant.. no sign of oil.

Here are my observations, some of which concern me..

The car seems to run fine. Idle is ok, surges just a little bit now an then, but nothing like before the AOS failed.

If I take the oil cap off when the car is running, then the idle becomes rough (Demonstrating the effect of a vacuum leak)

If I let the car idle, then the smoke becomes less and less, until not easily noticeable.

As RPM goes up, more smoke comes out. This makes sense as the residual oil is burned off.

A few drops of what seems like water come out of the tailpipe, every minute or so. (Yes, I am aware that it's not abnormal for a few drops to come out of an exhaust pipe)

I've been running the car around the block, in an attempt to burn off the oil. To do it well, I could run the car up I-95, but I am concerned about getting pulled over by the police and also getting stuck if something else is amiss.

Here's a link to a photo of the current amount of smoke after a trip around the block.

http://i42.tinypic.com/32znoy8.jpg

With all said, does the smoke look like it is being produced from oil or coolant?

Ok. The idle is much better than before the AOS was replaced. It looks like I'm going to get dirty tonight.

Thanks. One other question... Is there a chance that I could have missed a connection or misaligned the AOS that would cause the smoke to continue even after a new AOS has been installed?

Is there something that I should clean in order to reduce the post repair smoke?