Sputter

It would be a good time to consider getting the Bentley's repair manual, though Pedro's instructions are virtually the same as the manual. It's simple to do, but the vaccum is the best route as mentioned by 1schoir

Hello folks

I would like to know how to bleed the engine coolant in my 1999 Boxster.

I did not find any bleader near the radiator to bleed the air coolant

Help will be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Robert

Very nice man, thanks for sharing. It's a great addition to my favorite bookmarks. Out of curiosity, how were the lifters? any stuck?

Again, awesome job and thanks for sharing.

Jim

I went on your website. How did you know the spring was broken? I can't tell from the pictures.

You can tell right away just by touch. It is very loose. In this picture you can see the visual signs. Over time springs can become weak and break. Right now, as I wait out this cold weather, I'm trying to decide if I should go ahead and replace all of them, so there is an equal amount of presure across the board.

-k

Thanks Loren.

999.631.133.90 H7, 55W Halogen Fog -- US MSRP $10.86

I'm looking for a part number.

Scratch X is a diminishing compound not a filler.

i tried claying it with the mother's system last night... didn't really remove it. I'm going with the top sealant overspray as my diagnosis at the moment..... I also have some Scratch X and may try that next time I give the full car a wash....

I've got some Raggtop, Optimum No Rinse, and some Waffle Weave MF towels on order.....

I didn't realize until after the Porsche that synthetic chamois were no longer the preferred method to dry a vehicle. I've had mine for the past 10+ yrs.....

A synthetic chamois isn't terrible for drying a car, so long as you don't have hard water and you wash thoroughly. If it's 10 years old it's time to buy a new one, regardless. :)

ScratchX won't do anything but lay on filler without a lot of application and elbow grease. Get a real compound, it's easy to find them at the store. 3M rubbing compound is one that's widely available.

Try a small spot, and if it works do the rest.

It's not even 2/3 of a beer job.

Like Phil said, it's cheap and simple to do. Beats having it break while you're driving.

I would've sworn that the 60K service called for replacing the poly-rib belt, but now when I pull in the major and minor maintenance schedules (from this website) it simply says "Poly-rib belt: Check condition".

Can anyone clarify? Are these things good until 90K?

Thanks in advance.

Do you mean K&N?

Was getting CEL light with code P0102 ( Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit). After cleaning the MAF sensor and replaced dirty Air Filter with new KNS Filter, now getting new codes 1123, 1125 (Oxygen Sensing Adaptation) faults. Thought the filter change might have introduced this, but replacement with cleaned original filter and same codes reappear. I suspect that the MAF might be source of this problem, and replacement might be the real solution. What experience or suggestions due you have?

I do my changes at 8,000 kms, so about 5,000 miles. I also change the oil just before I put it away for the winter months.

Use a fresh filter and crush ring. (I do anyways)

How often to Renntech members change the oil on their Boxsters. I am so used to changing oil every 5,000 kms with regular oil on my other vehicles that even with full synthetic on a performance car I cannot get my head aroung Porsche's suggested oil change interval - just seems way too long.

I am going to change every 6 - 8,000 kms (depending if mainly highway or in city between changes) but just wondered if I should always change the filter at that time, or if every two would be good. I use OEM filters.

Alan

+2 raggtop

It seems all the stuff aside from track events are Toronto-centric.

Also, it seems to me that the UCR club caters more to the "wine spritzer" set. Little to no DIY articles in the club mag. I joined more for the Pano club mag than for the UCR. Wine tasting, How to catch a budgie (last months Provo mag) doesn't interest me at all. (I'm more of a redneck lol)

Check out the Canadian section on Rennlist.com. It's more active and has some get-togethers etc.

Jim

I guess I'm just nervous since I had a car when the Drive Clean first started that did not pass. I was lucky at the time that I had a good mechanic and he didn't charge me much to resolve things cheaply. I had to have the exhaust manifold scraped/cleaned to remove the carbon build up to make it pass. There are lots of reasons a stock car won't pass emissions though.

Sputter, I see you are Bowmanville. I'm in the east end as well. Any local activities you have found in the east end? I joined UCR PCA last year but haven't had time as yet to make it out to any events but they all seem west end based.

Why wouldn't you pass? it's stock right? I get them to do a 2 stage test. (no rollers) My 02 passed 4 days ago.

imho, I wouldn't put any of that crap in my tank.

I'm due for my Ontario (Canada) emissions test this year when I renew my plates. Any advice of things I should do before the test to help passing?

Any thoughts on those "guaranteed-pass fuel additives" on a Boxster engine?

This site and a couple of others are great resources for DIYers. So far i've been able to do all my own stuff, mainly maintence stuff. In 3 years of ownership of my 02 S i've only had to do the dust boots on the half shafts and replace an alternator aside from regular maint.

With proper homework on the Car you're considering buying it's not too bad.

There are some good online places for ordering parts rather than having to pay dealership prices.

If you are considering non oem parts do your homework. Ebay etc is full of chinese parts. Prices might be attractive but you are getting what you pay for.

I don't want to turn you off but on the other hand you asked. ;)

With that subject header you likely just annoyed half the 986 owners. It's not a poor mans porsche. It's the only mid engine cab that porsche currently makes.

Only the misinformed would make such a statement.

Sputter et. al.,

I did not mean to offend with that title post, however, I have heard the boxster referred to as the "PMP". It is the only one that's in my price range. It however is a nice car, and I believe it is the most affordable (modern) model out there. Still, in (Ontario) Canada, especially away from the GTA and Muskoka, it is a rarity to see a Boxster or any other Pcar. That definitely has some appeal to me.

I would like to enjoy this car, but can't justify spending more than $1-2000 / year ( 7 months really of driving time) keeping it on the road. I do my own maintenance on my other vehicles, and this one will likely be the most expensive. If saving money sourcing out parts won't affect the driving experience, then I'd like to pursue that route. I only make a modest income, and taking it to an expensive shop is not an appealing option. I'm already setting aside $500/month to cover a 3% car loan (2-3 yrs) and insurance.

I've done most of the service and repairs on our other vehicles, and would like to do the same with the boxster. For example, the current stable:

2000 Honda VFR800 - motorcycle : forks serviced, ohlins shock installed, new Clip ons, heated grips, coolant change, brake fluid change and pads have all been done by myself

2000 Honda CBR600f4 - trackbike : forks serviced, brakes changed and bled, track prepped were all done by myself; soon up for sale, as I don't use it enough

2002 Jetta 1.8T chipped - brakes all around, ignition coils, throttle body repair, strut mounts replaced -again all by myself

2003 Honda CRV - brakes all around, DRL relay refurbed, sway bar end links replaced - again, free labour

2004 Polaris Touring Snowmobile, - summerized, lubed, by myself

If OEM parts fail, I usually shop around for a replacement. I mean, the OEM part wasn't that great to begin with - n'est pas? That is my thinking at least.

I just use the digital gauge for kms. From what I know if you swap out the gauges you'll lose the actual milage reading of your car.

The digital kms/miles window will pass the RIV inspection fwiw.

With that subject header you likely just annoyed half the 986 owners. It's not a poor mans porsche. It's the only mid engine cab that porsche currently makes.

Only the misinformed would make such a statement.

Since you're asking, using discount china build parts is up to you, it's your car. Seriously, 100 dollar half shafts?. I guess you won't like to spend 80+ dollars to do your own oil changes every 5k.

This car is not your hyndai, doing a proper job of your maintinance/repairs is going to cost money.

You bought the wrong car to try and nickel and dime it.

My overall sense of your post is that you bought the car just to claim "I own a Porsche"

Good luck man.

I'm so close to becoming a Boxster S owner. Dealership is overnighting the documents tomorrow for me to sign, and I'm getting some USD funds ready for a bankdraft.

I'm planning to do some of the maintenance myself, and am open to using non-OEM / rebuilt parts to help the operating budget. What are your thoughts on the subject.

I have no real allegiance to Porsche. The closest dealerships are 60-70 miles away.

I've researched the forums and found the following to be suitable alternatives to Pcar parts....

- revised GIAHH tops for the pre-02 cars -due to glass window

- ebay LCD replacement module for the Climate Control

- non N-rated tires from Tire Rack / local supplier / Costco

My car may have a future rear axle issue.... My PPI revealed that the outer CV joint on the rear outer was torn, and after some haggling the dealership is going to fix it and subsidize half the labor, but if the outer joint fails in a year or 2, I'm thinking about getting a non-OEM rear axle to replace it with.. doing a search on the 'internets' reveals some can axle assemblies can be had for less than $100.

Looking for suggestions on reduced dust brake pads, rotors , other maintenance parts etc.

It would have to be really dirty to choke it out. Knowing how much time you've spent on modding your car I doubt you would have left your filter get that way ;)

could a dirty air filter be an issue perhaps?

Thanks Loren

Not to hijack this thread, I have a vin question.

The my vin number on the left side battery tray (facing the battery) has an * after the number. I seem to recall it means something but damned if i can recall what.

Jim

Yes, that location seems to have a * before and after the VIN.

Not to hijack this thread, I have a vin question.

The my vin number on the left side battery tray (facing the battery) has an * after the number. I seem to recall it means something but damned if i can recall what.

Jim

I can see where that would be a pain but you shouldn't have to remove it too often I hope.

Yes, only on the Tips.

I've heard of them blowing out so I took a thin black zip tie and strapped the bottom of each to the roll bar. You don't notice the tie unless you really look.

You could also see a fine mist on the trunk lid, just over top of where the tank sits.

The recommended fill is mobil 1 0w-40 or even a 5w-40

Since you're asking, dump the oil and do a proper fill. (filter and oil). Oil is cheaper than a engine.

Mind me asking where you got your information? Why 5w-30?

just wondering if i can mix oil viscosities... when i had my car ppi and they did a oil filter analysis they topped it off with a mixture of 5w30 and 15w50 so i assumed they must have made a mistake and accidentally hit the button wrong so i went ahead and did an oil change using 5w30... i don't want to waste the oil in the car as its only been a few hundred miles and was wondering if i can drain out half of the oil and just mix it with 15w50... any help would be good... thanks.

I'd be inclined to get it rolled professionaly. There is something just not right about bending the metal on a Boxster with a "rod".

You must really love those wheels to go through that.

For those of you who are interested - the answer, aparently, is fender rolling. It is basically a procedure that pushes the inner fender lip inward, thus creating more room for the tire. My neighboor, who knows everything about everything, immediately showed me why it rubs on the left and not on the right - the lip on the right side is not flat but bent upwards, whereas the left fender lip was horizontal. Long story short I used a rod to push the lip in a little bit, took the car out for a drive and it certainly diminished the rubbing, significantly. It still rubs if I go over big bumps (huge ones) - I may need to further roll the fenders (or take the car to a body shop, they have a special tool for rolling). The tool can also be rented from various sites on the internet, but a good ol' baseball bat works just fine if you heat up the paint and do it slowly...

Anyway, mystery solved!

Thanks all for your suggestions.

FWIW, to do a proper job of it, remove the TB and clean it.

Would the above grease be ok for use in CV boots?