Sputter

It kinda makes me wonder if somebody topped off the oil via the coolant tank. It wouldn't be the first time i've heard of it.

:lol:

I would have talked him down for the all the issues and had the car gutted and stripped to become a race car before the end of the day!! :lol:

B

While the price is ok for the year and miles, the buyer was given solid advice (which is what he came here for).

Putting oil on failing parts is a used car dealers trick to hide issues as it doesn't fix anything. (it just makes things quiet)

No bad advice was given here.

Thanks for warning this guy off! I own this car. The brakes were a simple adjustment, warning lights were sensors and the starter was fixed with a spot of machine oil. Now I can get the true value of this car without being beat down buy an a aggressive buyer with bad advice.

Please help more owners get what their cars are worth. :clapping:

I changed my oil a couple days ago. While the car was running I removed the oil cap, I noticed a drop in idle and a slight suction with my hand covering the filler neck. It wasn't strong, not even enough to notice it while taking off the cap.

I'm just curious if this is a normal vaccum or a heads-up to a failing AOS.

Thanks, Jim

Jim:

If the AOS is on its way out, it usually becomes very difficult to take of the oil filler cap. The negative pressure is substantial.

If you are concerned about your AOS (due to mileage, etc.) why not remove the air tube at the throttle body and inspect for excessive oil deposits?

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

That's what I thought, but I'd never taken the cap off while the car was running before so I was curious. Mid summer I had removed the TB just to see its condition. It was slightly dirty but no more than I expected at 45k.

Thanks for the tip.

Jim

I changed my oil a couple days ago. While the car was running I removed the oil cap, I noticed a drop in idle and a slight suction with my hand covering the filler neck. It wasn't strong, not even enough to notice it while taking off the cap.

I'm just curious if this is a normal vaccum or a heads-up to a failing AOS.

Thanks, Jim

Change it.

Ejector seat button. :beer:

Very nice front end. Who made it? I couldn't tell from the back, is there a rear defuser as well?

They are only 18" inch, but i think 19" will be much better. i guess.

Thanks man.

Jim

West, was there any offset difference between the boxster 18" and the Cayman 18"s?

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Both styles of 18" wheels (Boxster S and Cayman S) have the same offset: 57mm front and 43mm rear

West, was there any offset difference between the boxster 18" and the Cayman 18"s?

im sorry im just very confused...the reason i bought the rims is because i got them 4 brand new tires and 4 caymen oem porsche rims all together for 400$ and i couldnt let that deal pass by...so what are my option to lower the front ?

Amazing price, the next time I need a set of wheels and tires I am going to call you! At $400 sounds like they were stolen! :clapping:

Are you positive they are OEM wheels and not the Italian replica's?, a stock Porsche wheel up in the great white north is $1000 each!

Anyway, the set you bought has the OEM tires sizes for the 987/987c(F 235-40, R 265-40), the 986 according to the TSB's was different, the front was 225-40 and the rear 265-35...

As suggested, you should run the correct sizes for the car, the differences in the look will not be noticable IMHO

Once again.

Stock 18" sizes are Front-225/40 Rear-265/35 on stock rims. I can't speak to the offsets of your rims.

so what is recommended size for the front ? 225/40-18 or 215/35-18? i want the biggest size possible with no problems or rubs or rasiing the car, and the back i have 265/40-18 what should i make the rear ?

You guys are the best

Sorry man. if you're really sold on using that setup I don't know what to say.

I feel that even if you spend the extra money to lower the front you're going to make the handling worse (assuming you can even get the look you want).

You're trying to make the car to suit the wheels/tires and that is backwards in my opinion. I think it's going to be more expensive than picking a better balance of tires.

Out of curiosity, what tires are they?

im sorry im just very confused...the reason i bought the rims is because i got them 4 brand new tires and 4 caymen oem porsche rims all together for 400$ and i couldnt let that deal pass by...so what are my option to lower the front ?

You asked that question but choose to ignore what the guys said.

Stock 18" sizes are F-225/40 R-265-35

You've increased the sidewall by a good bit, both front and back. Take the rears for example, you've increased the sidewall by 5percent (somewhere just under 1/2" taller, if my math is correct). More sidewall equals more wallow.

Was there a particular reason why you didn't go with stock numbers?

I just raplced my boxster 2 17's rims (rear 255/40/17 and front 205/40/17) with a pair of cayman s rims (rear 265/40/18 front 235/40/18) when i replaced it the back looks wonderful but the front looks too high for some reason...looks ike the front is lifted..like a mexican lowrider basically, the back is down and the front is up.. is this normal ? do i need to drop it or what is going on ? also my steering wheel is a lot more loose now and much more sensitive, before my steering was nice and stiff and precise, how can i get that again ? what do i need to do ?

So how would i lower the front of my car to look even with the rear, and how can i get my stiff handling back ???

Thank you

p.s it is a 2003 Porsche Boxster non S

Thanks guys.

Can anyone verifiy that there is a new updated cap .03?

You mentioned the power steering pump was dry too? Does this car have a salvage title?

From what you're saying this car is in pretty rough shape. It sounds like a project.

Do you know what kind to use and where to get it? dealership wants $50

It's expensive but using another type will likely turn your coolant into jello.

If you're adding coolant, the mix is 50/50 (half coolant, half DISTILLED water)

If your tank is dry you'll likely want to burb it via the bleeder valve after filling to be sure there isn't an air pocket.

Since you are adding coolant you'll want to find out were it went.

FWIW.

I contacted Amsoil to find out why they weren't on the Approved list, i was curious. I wanted factual information from him not how to sell it lol

All I got back from them "i'll speak to our techs and get back to you". They never did. However they offered to set me up as a dealer and my own website etc.

They remind me too much of Mary Kay/tupper ware etc for my tastes.

Are they professional? Not in my opinion. Would I trust their product? Not based on my experience with them via emails.

Jim

Messing with those frozen exhaust bolts could lead to more problems if you snap one or more (which is a common occurance).

Do you feel lucky punk?, well, do yah? lol

What I did was to separate the ball joints and move the wheel carriers aside.

The "winding down" sound was the alternator. A combo of bearings/freewheeling pulley it seems.

Jim

This is a good place to start. I can likely answer some of your questions as i've done mine.

Set aside a few hours for this job and I hope you enjoy playing in grease lol

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/DIY%2...CV%20Boots.html

Thanks Loren.

Anyone know if audi/vw has this part? I called them but they can't look up sizes.

Cool, thanks TP. The next time i'm ordering small bits i'll be sure to get this replaced :-)

Jim

02 Boxster S

The long alternator bolt that runs through the pulley.

Size would be helpfull in case I need to check the audi/vw inventory. (the audi dealer is quite a bit closer to me)

Thanks,

Jim

Having removed it finally, I can see that the bushing was frozen solid. That bushing made it a pita rather than the simple job it is.