Sputter

I'm stuck.

I have the left side bolt out and it swings up by hand but not high enough to clear the bracket.

The right side idler bolt is out but it just wants to pivot on that point. I did the tapping on the idler prior to removal.

It just dosen't seem to want to come off that idler point.

Any ideas? (I didn't want to add too much force due to the soft metal)

Jim

Awesome, that actually answers my next question about swapping the pulleys.

Jim :cheers:

What's the difference between a fixed pulley vs a freewheeling pulley? Does this apply to a 02 Boxster S?

Jim

I'm still working on problem.

I drove it this am about 17mins or so mixed driving from 50km-90km (speedwise) headlights/with my DRLs on (my drl is my foglights).

It was parked for 4 hours. I drove it home same as above but no headlights just the DRLs.

I did a voltage check on the battery after those drives and battery showed 12.28 car off or 11.54 with everything on and car running. (air/radio/headlights etc)

The brief "winding down noise" is still present. (driverside).

A question.

Could the starter solenoid be keeping the starter engaged to be drawing power and causing the "winding down" sound?

Jim

I got my wife to turn on/off the boxster while I hunted for the sound. Coincidently it started just after I swapped out the ignition switch.

It was the powersteering pump. (not one of fluids I check on regular basis).

It did sound like it was on the passenger side,,,really.lol

Now i'm seeing a drop on the battery down to 11.5ish volts while the car is running at idle. Since it should actually be higher with the car running i'm leaning towards the alt/vr. I should be happy that's not cooking the battery ;)

Nothing to do now but to pull it and see what's failed on it.

Thanks, Jim

The secondary air pump shuts off at warmup?

Mine seems to make a "winding down sound" when I shut the car off. Which tells me it's staying in operation.

Would this be a sign of it failling? No code is being thrown.

How many amps would the pump draw if it is staying on? I'm wondering if could run a battery down at low rpms (2-2.5kish). I know the car really doesn't charge much at low rpms.

Thanks, Jim

No worries man. I was curious as to what the alt was pumping to the battery. If it was in the high 14.XX volts

CT has a decent digital one that goes on sale from time to time.

Jim

...sorry Sputter, car basically shutdown after all the warnings came on. I barely had enough time to switch lanes and park on shoulder. I didn't have a meter with me at the time so I can't be of any help! Truth be told I bought one yesterday at the local Can Tire shop and it is in the rear boot as we speak.

I'm curious what your voltage read on the battery while the car was running. (prior to swapping the alternator out)

it was the external VR.

Type 4362

serial 15003914

24/99

0567/0565 didn't work i'm afraid.

If you're right when you say "lots of metal" and "dark grey and thick", flat bed it to a shop. Don't be trying to run it at this point.

How did the oil look when you picked the car up?

You say it started doing this on the way back from buying it?. When you did the PPI prior to sale, what did the report say?

I don't want to scare you more than you likely are. A porsche shop will give you a much clearer picture.

Good luck man.

does the car start now after this incident?

No start, I've changed the oil, found lots of small sandy metal and the oil color was dark grey and thick (lots of metal in there)

Put new oil in the boxster, still no start. I tried push starting it and no luck.

Also there is no "Hummmm" before I start the car. Isn't that the fuel pump or the oil pump?

A quick answer would be to check the TB for grunge buildup and use techron injector cleaner. (that's the simple quick answers) A really filthy air filter comes to mind as well.

Some things to consider at anyrate.

Is the clutch slipping? ( the motor revs going up but speed isn't).

That would make the most sense since the panel is vented and the plastic window wouldn't prevent water from getting under it.

So having vin access without having to remove the panel is the best guess.

Thanks man,

Jim

I'm looking for the part number for it. Any ideas what it's for?

Thanks,

Jim

I can't speak to the dynamics.

Having the coolant lines exposed like that would concern me. (flying stones and whatnot, things that you couldn't avoid)

As for resale, If I saw that I would have reservations about the car. I may be bit more anal about broken parts not being fixed than some people. It shows lack of care to me.

That's just my opinion however. :P

I've had my 2004 Boxster S for about 4 months now, and just passed 45,000 miles two days ago... so today was the first time I put it up on a lift. (Only cost me $4 to rent a lift for an hour at the auto hobby shop at the local Navy base, which is just awesome!) I was less than delighted when I noticed my rear underbody panel was broken at one spot (circle) with a number of small cracks nearby. I was even less delighted to notice the other side of the panel was missing completely. I suspect a botched jack job, as there's other evidence of shoddy work at all the jack points, but there doesn't seem to be any damage besides to the panels. I've already replaced one underbody panel at a cost of $50, and this one is twice the size, and nowhere near as noticeable, so I doubt it will impact resale value. How important is it, though? Isn't it mainly for aerodynamic downforce at high speeds?

FYI, I went to order a pair of axle nuts (PET # 999-084-641-02) and Atlanta couldn't find them. It turns out the part number changed to 999-084-634-02.

It's been changed to a solid Nut rather than a 2 piece one.

Jim

Update. I backed off the coilpack and wiggled it a bit and re-tightened. It wasn't as tight as it should have been. 15mins at idle with some small reving and no recurrence. (knock on wood). When the exhuast cools down i'll double check the pack and go for a test drive.

I don't want to do my happy dance just yet but yesterday the rpms would have easily fluctuated by now.

02 box S 46k

My reader is showing only the single code (p0301). The code pops up intermittedly (ie. it's not always present) sometimes with the MIL light, sometimes not.

The most noticable effect is the drop in rpm and a bit rough running.

Should I be scared? Would a failed/failing MAF cause this or should I look elsewhere? which is cylinder 1? passenger side at the firewall?

If you need more information just ask.

I'm pretty concerned atm.

Thanks guys in advance.

Jim

Gus, you're right. I had a senior moment. Bad enough infact, I went out to the garage to look. :D

Jim

225 in front? I'm fairly certain it should be 235. Though this may not be related to your issue.

Have recently fitted 18" rims and Bridgestone Potenza 225/40ZR18 front and 265/35 rear.

Car is a 2002 Boxster S.

For the first 10 minutes or so of driving there is a noticeable vibration in the cars steering at about 45 to 55 mph.

This disappears completely after a while.

I can guess that the problem lies with the new tires - but I would like to ask the forum:

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does it disappear after the tires become more worn?

Is it specifically a Bridgestone problem, or is it more a function of low profile tires in general?

any comments/tips would be much appreciated

Chris

Hi Sputter,

The suggest width of the front tires on 18's for the 986 are in fact 225!

Chris is running all the 'approved' dimensions.

All the best,

Gus

225 in front? I'm fairly certain it should be 235. Though this may not be related to your issue.

Have recently fitted 18" rims and Bridgestone Potenza 225/40ZR18 front and 265/35 rear.

Car is a 2002 Boxster S.

For the first 10 minutes or so of driving there is a noticeable vibration in the cars steering at about 45 to 55 mph.

This disappears completely after a while.

I can guess that the problem lies with the new tires - but I would like to ask the forum:

Has anyone else experienced this?

Does it disappear after the tires become more worn?

Is it specifically a Bridgestone problem, or is it more a function of low profile tires in general?

any comments/tips would be much appreciated

Chris

http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/books/Porsch...527boxster%2527

62.04 CDN here.

I can't seem to find one locally, unless I know the author.

Would anyone here be able to help me locate a Bentley manual??

I like to tinker. :)

Any tips/pitfalls I need to be aware of while changing the boots on both sides.

A list of tools would be greatly appreciated. (aside of the standard wrenches). There's nothing I hate more than getting halfway though a job and finding you're a tool short.

I can't say 100% but I don't think you're doing yourself any favours. A clutch is cheaper than a tranny.

I don't speed shift, I shift when the tranny allows me to and thats usually at about 2.5k to 3.5 so it's relatively slow. I do it because I get tired of shifting!. I do not downshift without a clutch.

Did anyone keep a copy of this post? It was a pretty decent writeup and now that I need replace a boot it would have been extremely handy.

Where are you getting the part number for the tank. If from the tank itself then take a picture.

*disclaimer* this picture is brutal. after a number of attempts this the best I could do. I used a pencil to darken the numbers for relief. (zoom is your friend here).

996.106.047.08

Where are you getting the part number for the tank. If from the tank itself then take a picture.

I'll do that and post it tonight

It's a little lower then manufacturers stamp/name (behind the hoses). Oddly the 3rd hose (bottommost one of the 3 had no clamps on it).

Jim