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ard.

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Posts posted by ard.

  1. OP-

    I see you are in Switzerland, yes?

    The advice I always give people is this: WHO will be doing your work? your maintenance/upgrades? Your TROUBLESHOOTING? You will want to choose a tune that THEY are comfortable with...

    Or chose a tune where the tune company is willing to talk with your shop and answer their questions.

    I used UMW.... but Marek, todd would all be fine I suspect. I am actually not too familiar with EU-based offerings...

    A

    PS The GT2 exhaust is slightly different- so some of that power may be due to sightly reduced backpressure. DO consider a new exhaust, power AND better sound. Europipe is made in belgium, one of the best.

  2. At the risk of bumping an old thread, the new PCM 2 or 2.1 has FOUR frigging clips, the upper two are not visible, being hidden by plastic.

    Without the correct tools you need 5 or 6 hands- 4 for the 4 clips, then one or two to wiggle the POS out.

    Study the sides, and you will see the bottom clip... study above it and you'll see what looks like the same constrution that disappears under the black plastic- yes, there are clips under there.

    A

  3. Unfortunately, amongst my many talents, Welding is not one of them.

    I'll just buy the Extensions (bungs) and install them, but Im wondering if the O2's are easily accessible. Im hoping I won't have to drop the exhaust to replace them.

    Slide on under and look at the O2 sensors... easy to remvoe and replace. Really no DIY needed.

    But might I comment that crappy cats on cheap aftermarket exhausts are causing your issue. Just saying. High quality 100cell cats that perform cost $2000 a pair, whole exhausts using these are priced accordingly!

    One comment- if you unscrew the O2 without unpluging the wires will twist up- LEAVE THEM TWISTED when you reinstall them into the extended bung, so that when screwed down the wires will untwist and ultimately be nice and straight like when you started.

    GL

    A

  4. Sorry Ard. I did not have any success with durametric and I had to bleed it using the motive bleeder solution....

    Yeah, my read is that you need the Durametric Professional Product to have a hope of V6 working...(I am rather annoyed that they claimed the 'enthusiast version' is the same as the Pro, except for the # of car limit...then changed their story after they realized V6 would not work in the enthusiast format)

    I'm using a motive, just was hoping to fill the whole system with the same fluid.

    See what durametric says, maybe pick up the pro version and lease it out to anyone that wants it!

    Regards

    Adam

  5. Thanks for your replied JFP and Loren. Hope you understand that I was trying the new software while doing the bleeding on the car. My concern was that the system was dripping in all four corners for about two weeks because I was waiting for parts and I was also replacing the fluid for Motul RBF 600. The repair manual mention that eventuality ( "Also carry out this procedure if the brake hydraulics was largely empty or if after bleeding residual air

    can be detected by excessive brake−pedal travel") and recommend to the a deep bleeding with booster pump "on" . Anyway just went for a road test and everything is fine. I agree with you Loren it is still a beta software and may be this activation is not working yet. Thanks anyway, J.P.

    Any update on this? I am swtiching to Motul RBF600 and would rather have all new fluid (as much as possible) going forward. I do recognize that for 'run of the mill' flushes it isn't needed.

    Curious if it can be done on the durametric

    A

  6. Why are you taking it to the dealer?!?!?

    THe term "low mileage annual oil change/check up" is a smoke screen designed to suck $489 out of your pocket for an oil change and a bunch of BS 'check this and check that'... where they actually don't check a thing.

    I agree with annual oil and brake flush every two.

    But find someone else to do the work.

    GL

    A

  7. I really think you want to look at the coil packs... you can get cracks in the potting that causes funny issues at higher rpms. I don't think this will necessarily show any codes.

    If you are reverting to the Bosch, this should cost you no more than $0 for labor.

    A

  8. ^^^ Somewhat agree.

    Here's something to consider. You get a flash, all is well. In 8 months you get a CEL. Dealer or indy says "must be your flash".... who do you call? (No, not ghostbusters).

    I view these kind of "non-commodity" upgrades as a more complex purchase than a SSK, or a JIC suspension...

    A

    PS After you get that flash, let's chat about a wastegate upgrade to free up the midrange on those K24s! :) See? It never ends!

  9. Just did this over the weekend- with a bunch of other things. (Exhaust, new wastegates, diverters) Why do plugs? Car had 23k miles, stock plugs. I had a mild ‘stumble’ on occasion when backing off light acceleration at 3k or so. I had one misfire once that set a CEL. I cleared it and it never returned- still, a indication of hat was to come I think. Considering that I am adding boost, it was clearly necessary.

    First post is really very, very good. A couple of added notes:

    My rear bumper was held with a 6mm allen bolt, not a T40 torx. 2004. I've seen torx before (on other cars) so this surprised me. When re-installing the bumpers, you need to align them to the side a bit and hold them while tightening, to get the right fit.

    Once the muffler was off, I took off the intercoolers on both sides and also removed the heat shields. These are real easy once the muffler is off. (Conversely, the upper nuts on the heat shield are a total pain once the exhaust is installed. The OP had a good point to gently bend them, but I couldn't bring myself to that- plus my exhaust was off to ne swapped anyway.

    They are ‘easy, easy’ once all that stuff is off (bumper, exhaust, intercoolers). Couple of heat shields, a bit of twisting to get the coils out. DO MAKE SURE that the electrical connectors to the coil packs are snug, they can back off as you are manipulating them out from the plug holes. I did not use anti-sieze this time. I’ve seen it recommended, but not by Porsche. (I believe the root is cold start issues in very cold climates. That is not a problem for me.) Next time I will use some, just a wetting of the threads, minimal thickness, and keep it away from the spark end. (ie don’t do the last few threads by the business end)

    Tedious but not difficult. The bumper skin was the biggest challenge only because you need two people to avoid damaging the paint.

    A

  10. Okay, so I was rushing home yesterday, not feeling well and I was speeding in the TT (go figure). On my radar detector, I have X-Band disabled as California has not used X-Band radar in years and don't remember the last time I saw an officer using X-Band.

    But he got me going 83, radar detector never went off. Anyone in CA noticed X-band recently or heard anything?

    And yes, thank goodness that I'm a giving guy and donated to the wonderful organization of the CHP 11-99 Foundation. It saved my behind just as it does for the spouses of those great officers.

    :thankyou:

    Ben

    WHy are you sure he used radar????

    They generally don't have a 'selectable' gun, nor do they have a stockpile of various frequencies. CHP uses Ka.

    What kind of radar detector? where is it mounted?

    A

  11. There are 64k miles on the car.

    I am in the process of putting the car on the market to sell and now they say I need a transmission. The car has been maintained so I'm not sure how the transmission can just go after 64k miles.

    I'd say it is time to find a non-dealer to work on that car. Unless they've pulled it apart, how do they know it can't be repaired with new synchros, or what not? Perhaps they figure 'screw him, tell him it needs a new tranny, mark it up 50%, see if he's desperate'

    Where are you?

  12. Thanks for your reply. The Porsche Dealer charged the USD3870 for the job - which was a discounted sum and part of the deal (we did not get a penny discount on the car) due to the fact that the car was a Porsche Approved vehicle purchased from their dealership. I would have loved to purchase a car in the exact color but there are very few 997 cabriolets in my part of the world. Most are coupes.

    never heard of an "approved color change" for ANY car.

    US$3870 is a laughably low price for such a task. to do it right requires major disassembly- removal of interior and exterior trim, glass, etc,etc. $3870 is about that a fender and door repair runs. $15000+ is what a total repaint should run.

    next time import.

    Best of luck

  13. Folks, I have done all of the searching on this site I can, and am finally posting the question.

    I just bought an '04 996 TT Cab (very happy with it for the most part).

    Need your help with one thing:

    The PCM2 CD player seems broken (it clicks and clicks and then calls the NAV CD unreadable). Restart the car, and everything is OK. Then again, randomly become unreadable. I now I MUST change out the PCM (mostly because I want to upgrade the stereo anyways).

    I went to a local shop with some Porsche experience and they recommend the 2 DIN Alpine with ipod, nav, bluetooth, hd radio, etc.

    My question is - does anyone have a better suggestion?

    I am looking for all of the above features, but the alpine interface is just ugly.

    Thanks for the help!

    ...oh, and the PSM/ABS failure thing shows up about half the time now, I know it is the MAF (thank you all for this site being a plathora of info...probably saved me a few hunder $$$ of the dealer rooting around looking for a problem)...

    Thanks again!

    I'm looking at the Alpine IVA-W205 and the NVE-N872A Dvd nav unit... and an audioson amp and new speakers.

    I like the Navteq maps that Alpine uses, but to be honest I have not 'test driven' the IVA software interface to see how it works.

  14. I have no specific companies for you, but will offer a bit of advice:

    READ THE ACTUAL POLICY to determine your coverage.

    All warranties will exclude coverage that is CAUSED by modifications. However an extended warranty- which is actually a 'contract for mechanical breakdown insurance' can be more limiting. They can actually have language that flat out void the entire contract for ANY 'modification from stock'.

    People get confused between the limits on warranties that the Moss Magnussen act provides, and what is alllowed with "extended warranties"

    It is important to read the language and not rely on what a sales rep TELLS you- "Oh, yeah, we're cool with mods as long as they didn't cause the problem" yet a written contract that says "Coverage is void for any modified vehicle"... which will apply when the adjuster is looking at $28k for a dropped rod?

    A

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