986fan

I have a maintainer with the terminal harness shown above. I just run the wire out the back of the hood

by the base of the windshield (hood completely closed). The wire is not pinched. I lay a soft towel on the

fender where the wire could touch it. Been doing this for 3 years.

.........the 2002 Pontiac Grand Am I owned before it had no deviation at all.........

Ha!........My Pontiac Grand Prix daily driver is spot-on as well!

Ok.....Is the '01 Boxter fog light bulb an H7 ?????

Interesting - have a set of LED DRL's............

......And that was my next question. LED's for fog lights locally available at an Autozone, for instance,

or on line? Where did you get yours? They should burn cool also, shouldn't they?

What type (number) are the '01 foglight bulbs (986 w/std headlamps)? Cars w/Litronic headlamps use the same?

Everywhere I look I find refrences for all of the lights on the vehicle except for the fog lights.

2001 PORSCHE Boxster (With halogen capsule headlamps)

Low beam headlamp

H7

H7SU Silverstar ULTRA for Ultra Night Vision - The Whitest and Brightest Halogen

H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen

H7EB EcoBright - Your Environmental Choice

H7XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light

H7CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light

High beam headlamp

H7

H7SU Silverstar ULTRA for Ultra Night Vision - The Whitest and Brightest Halogen

H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen

H7EB EcoBright - Your Environmental Choice

H7XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light

H7CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light

Parking light

2825

2825LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front turn signal

7506

7506ST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

7506LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Rear turn signal

7507

7507AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

7507LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Tail light

5007

5007LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Stop light

7506

7506ST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

7506LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

High mount stop light

2821

License plate

6418

6418LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Back up light

7506

7506ST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

7506LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Front sidemarker

2825

2825LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Rear sidemarker

5007

5007LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Map light

2825

2825LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Dome light

2825

2825LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Step/Courtesy light

2825

2825LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Trunk/Cargo area

6411

Under hood light

6411

I do know that they had to add a spoiler (recall?) to the original Audi TT''s because they had a stability problem.

Friend's car he bought (used) at a BMW dealer. It was ok when he made the purchase

a few days ago but when we went to pick it up yesterday the switch was pushed in.

The BMW dealer has agreed to pay the Porsche dealer to fix it, no argument. I just

wondered if there was a simple way to access it without making a trip to the dealer.

I looked at an 01 986 yesterday and the convertible top switch had been pushed inside of the dash.

Anybody else had this? How hard is it to get at? Do you think that the switch is broken or just unclipped?

I do not understand why this topic is such an issue for some people.

The reason I noticed it in the first place (before checking the accuracy) was that, on the motorway,

I was always holding people up. The speed limit is 65 and almost all traffic runs 72. You try to drive

the maximum speed without danger of a ticket and to keep traffic moving smoothly.

Now after the error revelation I am constantly mentally checking and recalculating so as to both

not get a ticket and not get run over at the same time.

Also, some small town speed traps in the U.S. will give you a ticket for 2-3 mph over the posted limit.

It's not the ticket (about $80.00) but the fact that after the most innocent ticket, your insurance will

go up about $100.00 per quarter for the next eight quarters (about $880.00 in total).

This is a pain in the brain, a pain in the wallet and a pain in the a$$.

There is no viable excuse.

Now my friend picked up his just purchased 2001 S yesterday.....You guessed it. reads 3-4 mph fast.

I have found, after following other Boxters, that the rear spoiler that deploys automatically

at highway speeds is particularly unsightly.

Is this device necessary in normal day-to-day driving at speeds under 100 mph?

Is this a "gimic" or is there a speed at which you would not deem it safe to drive without the

spoiler enabled?

I there a way (fuse?) to defeat this feature?

I know that there is a switch for manual operation but I want to turn it off it altogether..........

unless you're going to tell me that I am going to spin out.

Last year, I had a droan in the back that I attributed to a possible bad belt in a rear tire.

When new tires did not take it away, I found it to be a right rear wheel bearing that the grease

had dried up into what looked like a little bit of dirt (01 986S with only 12,000 miles).

I had both rear wheel bearings replaced ($600.00). No more problem.

Mine is a 1997...

You run a wire from the foglight fuse to pin 86 of the foglight relay.

When ignition switch is turned on foglights go on.

When highbeams are on, foglights go off.

Thanks.....I'll try it.

Mine is hacked to run the foglights as DRL. I think it looks better............

That's what I would rather do (and move my CQ 5000K's to the foglight socket position as well, if they're H7's).

What year is yours? How did you hack the fogs for DRL's?

After about a year my driver's side wouldn't always light first try. Seemed to be getting worse.

I contacted CQ (5000 K kit) and they said to send the components in and they could be tested.

I said I didn't fancy having my car torn apart for a month.

They suggested that I buy a motorcycle kit (one side) and swap out the components.

I asked if everything was the same and they assured me that it was. Wrong - the kit had been

redesigned/improved (better) and none of the plugs were the same. I installed it and it works ok.

I sent the original parts back immediately. CQ gave me a return authorization number and assured

me that I would receive a credit ($92.00).

Now, 2 months later and no refund. I emailed them and have never received a response.

My move (again)?

I have this hack on my MY 01 S.......it works fine.

Today a friend bought a MY 01 S with factory Litronics........same 6 & 9 fuses for the HID's?

Take your wheels to a shop that has a Hunter 9700 RFV (Road Force

Variation) sensing balancer and somebody that knows how to use it.

Same as all other wheel sizes.

Thanks Loren.........(the fronts are 3 psi more)

Can anyone post the stock factory recommended tire pressure settings for 19" wheels?

Thank you

I found replacements at PelicanParts.com, but $1k for a piece of foam is a bit ridiculous..........

1k?........I just ordered this last week (not here yet)........

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearc...x=12&I1.y=5

I installed one last week.

Sorry I didn't get back until now (I saw their new deal on their website).........How's it working out?

Here is what I ended up with from Euro Wheels in Downey, CA (562-803-6700)

OEM quality Italian made Ruf style knockoffs on my 2001 986 S and they fit great!

Fronts: 19x8.5 with 225/35-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (50 mm offset)

Rears: . 19x10 with 265/30-19 Toyo Proxess-4 (47 mm offset)

They were asking $2099.00 + shipping (I live in Ohio) and I offerred $1900.00 shipped

which they readily accepted. Very nice center caps with colored Porsche crests included,

My car has not been lowered and the ride is 99.9% as good as with my stock 18's.

I am completely satisfied with these; the look, the fit and finish. Everything.

I swore it was tire noise...but after trying 2 sets of wheels and tires I was convinced.

It was the rear wheel bearings. Had them replaced......noise gone.

You might have a bad wheel bearing. The sound is very similar to tire noise........

I will report back this weekend.....weather permitting.

Yup.....you were right Kevin.....Car looks like new and just turned over 13k but the grease in the RR

wheel bearing looked like old dried-up shoe polish. Nice and quiet now. Thank you.

Just a small correction on tire dates.The "last 4 digits" of date are tire manufacture date.

The first 2 digits are "PRODUCTION WEEK" and the last 2 digits are the "YEAR".

So, 5000 means 50th week of year 2000, which means December 2000.

You're right!.........Thanks..........

On my 18's I run 30 F and 36 R. On my 19's I use 33 F and 40 R.

The pressures molded into the tire sidewall have nothing to do with operating pressures.

Those are the maximum safe pressures FOR MOUNTING PURPOSES ONLY!

Also.....don't buy old tires. They age even if they are new and unmounted on the garage

shelf. Look at the last 4 characters of the D.O.T. number. This is the month and year of

manufacturer.