GranburyChuck

I want to put a stereo control know in the rear center console by the emergeny brake and was going to move the window switches to the center dash. Has anyone done this. I removed some of the console last week working on another project and it looked like the wires ran toward the front of the dash so I assume there would be plenty of wiring to do this. Just need to remove the shifter so I can get the cabling out and move it up under the dash.

Anyone?

That doesn't sound good. What about opening up the hoses close to the water pump that have 90 degree bends in them? May be caught in there. Furthest I would imagine is at the intake to the radiators. Doubt it could go through the fins in those unless it was chopped up really fine.

I just replaced my suspension with Porsche ROW M030. Now the noise is worse. Wish I had just chosen the stock suspension or maybe ponied up the extra coin for the PSS9s. Still don't know if those would help but am pretty upset that I spent that amount of money and time and still not happy. However, steering control is excellent now. Thinking of doubling up on the Dynamat in the back just to see. I bought some more Extreme but was going to do the floors. Now I don't know which to do.

My 2 cents, you better understand your personality before you purchase new suspension. A lot of people that I requested input from on this and other websites gave their impression of various suspension upgrades. I have a 2000 C2 that came with stock US suspension but PO put lowering springs on. My ride was harsh, this is my only car so daily driver. I changed the springs out to US M030 option. Still fairly harsh but assumed the shocks were shot with 100k miles on them. People suggested anything from PSS9 to X74 (needs modification for my car) to ROW M030. I went with the ROW M030 complete kit and bought all parts on the shocks and struts to replace the entire suspension so starting with new. I've had the suspension on about a week now and got to say, I'm not happy with it. It is a firm ride, very nice in the twists, but sharp impacts fully transmit into the cabin. So I probably should have gone with the wimpy US stock suspension set up but in the back of my mind liked the idea of the steering precision the ROW M030 kit would bring. BTW I have 18" wheels. I know people will harass me that the car is not going to ride like a Lexus and I don't expect that. I had a BMW coupe and know that you can have good steering control and a compliant suspension. I have driven Cayman's as loaners and they were very nice and controlled without harshness so I know this can be achieved. Anyway, ask yourself, and be honest, will I be able to give up some steering precision for more tolerable ride or is it race car steering at all costs.

My 2000 C2 used to run on the left side of 0 in the 180 maybe go up a little bit in stop and go. I don't have JE's humidity (I am from Houston, no potshots) but do have the high heat (yesterday in Fort Worth Texas it was 102). Even with decent traffic flow temp was at the middle or high side of 0 in 180. Using the HVAC hack (hold recirc and top button down for 5 seconds) my coolant temps were up to 107C (I know Loren, this is not accurate but on the fly seems to match coolant temp gauge). I can see some junk in my radiators (cleaned them last year). Probably need to do it again. Also, noticed that my oil pressure was about 0.5 bar at idle versus about 1 bar in "reasonable" temps (~80F).

I measured fender to ground, fender to wheel center, fender to rim protector on tire. All of them gave essentially the same answer.

I just finished installing the ROW M030 suspension on my car and was noticing that the fender heights looked different side to side. I measured about 1/2" higher on the passenger than the drivers side (front, rear pretty close to even). I know that the struts are bottomed out into the hub carrier as the tab stop on the strut is touching it on both sides. I torqued down the strut top nut as specified. I used the 3 mm spacer that is suggested from the Porsche manual for the ROW suspension. The bottom of the coil spring is touching the end of the pocket on both sides. Only thing I noticed is that I did not get the strut mount nuts back into the exact location they originally started at on the passenger side. Seems like that might affect caster more than ride height. I am at a loss. Anyone got an idea?

Don't know if this will help but I had a high pitched whine and it turned out to be my alternator. With my engine running the force required to remove the oil fill cap is higher than I would expect so I assumed AO separator. However, pretty sure it's not as no smoke on start up and nothing in the intake.

I recently purchased ROW M030 from Sunset for ~$1200. I decided to buy every piece on the struts and shocks for a complete swap out replacement. Suncoast had them for a slightly higher price. Might need to assess availability.

Maybe I jumped the gun. From inside the car the drivers wiper looks like it hits the trim (it goes out of sight in the upper corner). Maybe it doesn't hit the trim. I do have OEM Porsche wipers (I assume) since I bought them from Suncoast Porsche.

I am experiencing the same issue on my 2000 C2 daily driver. The rodes are not great. Part of my issue is probably suspension. I have 120k miles on the car and probably original shocks. I ordered the ROW suspension and will start to put it on today. Others have commented that they gave better ride than original US spec but probably had degraded suspension to begin with. Tires is also an issue. Seems whenever I buy new tires (had the car 2 years, put 56k miles on it, and replaced 4 rear sets of tires, long story). Initially, any of the tires I tried (I am on 18's as well) were fairly low noise. After little wear they all got very noisy. I even put sound deadening all in the back and hasn't quelled the noise much. Personally, I am wondering if the tires with parallel grooves (follow road direction) versus chevron type (cross pattern) provide less noise. Next time I will try the OEM Continental tires with parallel grooves. I have pondered the same thing you are suggesting, switch from 18 to 17, but will try the suspensioin first.

Yes, I searched and couldn't find the exact topic on how to do this. My temps are creeping up quite quickly when at a stop. I know low speed fans are blowing as they are when I get out of the car. Temps when driving on the highway at cruise are left of 0 in 180 and 95C on the HVAC hack. When I stop or slow for a short period it goes up to middle of 0 and as high as 100 on HVAC. I know these may not be real numbers but I don't like how easily it creeps up now. Some additional information, the dealer replaced my water pump back in February due to failing bearing. Previous to that temps would get warm but not this quickly. I just start to notice this since the temps are going up to 100 now. Radiator cap is on so tight I can't get it off with 2 hands and I am scarred to put any more force on it for fear of breaking it. I cleaned the radiators out last summer and wouldn't expect it to be that bad in 1 years time (maybe it is). So my question is "Do I have trapped air in the system"? I assume the dealer did it right and used one of the machines to pull the fluid in. I have pulled up on the metal ring on the cap behind the radiator cap (I assume that is an air bleed) when the car was cold. Any other ideas? Thinking of doing "99's" fan mod so I can turn on the high speed fans just to get the air flow in there when at a stop.

TIA

P.S. I do have both low speed fans turning, essentially as soon as I start the car and after getting home from an hour long drive so I assume they are running.

Stefan, does your mod then make the fan automatically go to high speed mode or does the low speed operate first? Just wondering if the fans will be on high speed all the time in north Texas as temps are in the 100s and I will be driving with the AC on.

Hey "99" I know you have a string here about rigging a switch for the high speed fans but I was wondering if anyone knows if the original "on temp" for the high speed fans can be modified, I guess in the DME. Can this be reprogrammed?

Well, thats about where mine sit so I guess all is fine. I thought they might tuck in a little lower since they have been hit by flying debris.

I have made several options. First I just cut the center console where the window switches are. Not very elegant and tall drinks wouldn't stay well. So I then made a custom holder out of fiberglass and secured it to the removable panel next to the passengers knees. Was going to cover it in leather but eventually decided on a different option. Suncoast Porsche sells a cup holder that sits in your arm rest. However, you have to have your arm rest cover up and your elbow hits the arm rest cover when you reach for the cup. So I cut a hole in the arm rest right over where the cupholder is. I have been working on fiberglassing in the hole so it looks finished. When I find the right material I will cover it. Currently, tyring to get Alcantara to match my headliner. This position works great for me as the drink is never in the way and I can easily reach it when I want. My elbow doesn't hit it either. I can provide pics later if interested.

Anyone know how to adjust the wiper arms so that they sit on the black plastic cowl cover? Mine sit just above that on the window. I assume that is not correct as when the arm wipes the window it goes across the weatherstrip on the left drivers side window. I tried removing the arm and rotating the wiper arm by one "keyway" but that made it too far down. I removed the cowl for replacement so I see where the wiper motor and mechanism is but if I have to make an adjustment in there I won't know if it is right until I fully assemble it.

Anyone know where to get the material used on the headliner? I think it's Alcantara. I have looked at GAHH and couldn't find the headliners. I have contacted Gulf Fabrics but I don't see a correct color match on their website. Any other ideas? I am going to use it to upholster the door pulls and arm rest.

I had a motor mount fail while jacking from the back engine point. Some have said they would have failed anyway as I had 90K miles on the engine. I know jack one side at a time under each side suspension mount point. Not as handy as in the center of the engine but I don't want to ruin my engine mounts.

No, sorry didn't mean to imply that. I just meant I used it and nothing seemed to change, no improvement no detriment. Bearing was going bad in my water pump.

I had it in my car. After my initial posts things seemed to run okay, after fan replacement. Of course cooler temps set in as well. Then about February this year I had to get the dealer to replace the water pump. So they also put in new fluid. Now, as temps are just starting to get hot, engine gauge gets into the middle or far side of 0 on 180. AC hack shows temps being 95 while driving and up to 100 when sitting for a few minutes. I know both low speed fans are on as have checked on initial (cold) start and after driving home (95F today). I cleaned the rads about a year ago but I have to assume that is my current issue since it seems to be okay at highway speeds, unless I am really gettin on it.

I used that oil previously in my 2000 996. No issues I could tell, cheap at Walmart. I did switch back to 0W-40

I've got a 2000 996 C2 tiptronic. I was doing some work on the radio in front of the tunnel console I found a 4 wire connector not connected to anything. This would be in the location where the batwing is at. The connector has a part number of "AMP1-968475-1B>PBT-GF15" second line "029-545-212-8". Anyone got an idea what that connector is for?

Thanks

I thought Jake's work was on hold because of recurring cracked heads in the M96 engines and he hasn't addressed that yet. At least I thought I read that somewhere...

Could it be the transmission shifting hard, from a stop? How much are you pushing on the acclerator? Sometimes mine does that when I floor the throttle.