GranburyChuck

I've got the Goodyear F1 All Season on my 996. Happy with them at first but after minimal tire wear they roar like hell. I even put Dynamat in the back to help minimize it. I've been to the dealer and mine isn't bearings. It's your tires. Your stuck like me, wait until they wear out.

I own a 2000 C2 tip. Dealer change on fluid and filter is about $380 at every 80k miles. You could do it for much less and there are techniques shown on the board here by Izzy. A manual will have to have the clutch replaced and I have heard for about $1000 (don't know). As far as performance, well a manual is typically better but how often are you racing down public streets. That being said a tip can hold it's own against most cars. Also, my "impression" is that there may be fewer RMS failures on tips than manuals because of severe loading from hard shifts on manuals (don't know for sure just speculation).

They don't quite look like mine but you should be able to see Porsche part numbers on them. Take a scuff pad and see if you can find part numbers. should start 996.......

Is your car a Tiptronic? If so the mufflers need to have a flex joint, or corrugated section in them. Others have found if they put a straight connect muffler on a Tip then vibration comes into the car when in gear at idle. Goes away once under way.

yes. it is a tiptronic. so i guess it is not a big deal. what is a flex joint? if its inside the muffler, then nothing i can do about it. i can only feel the vibration when i am in gear in idle and when i just step on the accelerator a bit, thats when it comes out very noticable. once under way it is gone.

It should look like this with the accordion on the incoming side.

Is your car a Tiptronic? If so the mufflers need to have a flex joint, or corrugated section in them. Others have found if they put a straight connect muffler on a Tip then vibration comes into the car when in gear at idle. Goes away once under way.

Hey Bob, what part of Texas you in? Fort Worth here. I did Dynamat Extreme in the rear of the car and made a slight improvement. I need to do the floor and doors to make much difference though. I am also working on suspension as part of my issue is "slamming" noise through the cabin when I go over impact bumps. I may not have covered every square inch of the rear of the car but there wasn't much left that I didnt cover. So you might want to try the floors or doors first. I thought since my suspension was no good and the rear fenderwells are inside the cabin that it would help but didn't seem like much.

I am also wondering about my tires. I have tended toward "Chevron" tread type tires where the tread goes across in a diagonal pattern versus the continental conti sport 2 that are all parallel tread.

I had a similar situation on my 996. Ended up buying the polishing system from Griot's Garage when they had a sale. Can't remember exactly how much but for polisher, pads, carrying bag, a couple of polishing compound levels, wax, detail spray, clay bar... I think around $180. Actually did a really good job. Can't see the water spots any more and much cheaper than a paint job.

I just keep vacuuming it off of the dash. Maybe one day I will attempt to fix it but so many other projects are in front of it...

I've tried Yokahoma, Falken, Goodyear on my car. The Yokahoma's were decent but a big piece of metal in the road ripped through them so had to get Falken's in an emergency. I didn't like them so much but I was stuck. Recently replaced all 4 tires with Goodyear F1 All Season, decent tire with probably reasonable lifetime. However, they are getting quite noisy. I wonder if the "chevron" style tires create more noise than ones with all parallel patterns? My next set may be Continental Conti 2. My car is daily driver and will rarely be tracked (can't risk destruction). In my 2 years of ownership gone through ~2 sets on rear, fronts look new. At about 25k miles per year I will probably go through a rear set per year. So cost versus "best" tire is a balance.

I experienced same severe downshift last week (2000 C2 w/ 111k miles). I didn't think I floored the gas but transmission slammed into gear and I shot off faster than I expected. I understand it tries to learn how you are driving and adjust the maps accordingly but just prior I was cruising down the freeway in 5th gear doing 65. Pushed down on the gas to make a light and "SLAM". I thought I hit something. Never any problems with the car, no CEL and no codes on my scanner. I think slamming into gear may be better than slipping as slipping will wear the clutches out. Maybe not too slammy though.

How do I know if I have a Tip S? I have a 2000 996 C2 Tip and can shift up and down with the steering wheel buttons while in auto mode. After a few seconds if I don't shift it goes back to auto mode and operates normally.

Anyone ever try the Smart String system from Smart Racing? Wonder if I get that how good it would do, I think it was $250 in Panorama.

I have used the local Porsche dealer for my alignment at about $250 each time. I tried a tire store once and they had some issues so I never went back. The ROW supposedly lowers the car about 20/10 mm front/rear from my understanding. I know I need to get one I just wanted someone to say no so I wouldn't have to fork out money that I just spent on an alignment 1 month ago.

I just had my steering rack replaced about 1000 miles ago and got a four wheel alignment. Now I am going to replace the struts and shocks with the ROW M030 kit. My question is, is it really necessary to get the car re-aligned? Am I going to be that far off????

Hey fellow Texan, I was having leaks from there after I worked on the inner fender panel. Turns out I disconnected the feed line from the washer tank to the spray nozzles. I only realized this when I turned on the windshield washers and saw fluid running out where your pointing at. So may not necessarily be a leaky tank. Try turning on your windshield washers (if disconnected shouldn't get any spray on the windshield).

Yeah Bruce, I am really struggling with the same issues. Mine is a daily driver on anything from smooth roads to pure garbage. Car bouncing all over the place. Originally, from a previous owner the car had lowered Eibach springs. I can see on the oil pan where a lot of scrapping occured and it was rough. But that was on standard shocks. I replaced the Eibachs with M030 springs. Car still pretty rough so I don't know how much of that to attribute to blown shocks. There was an article in Porsche Panorama few years back comparing the US standard, US M030, and ROW M030. They also did some testing of the Bilstein HD shocks. The Bilstein shocks seemed to be a little stiffer than US M030 in compression (going from memory). So I don't know if under high speed bumps (i.e. potholes) if it will be okay or pretty harsh. By the way, Suncoast Porsche has the ROW M030 set up with shocks, struts, springs, sway bars and bushings as a kit for ~$1100 USD.

I am with you on not getting caught up in making this a race car.

Bruce,

I am also struggling with the same options. Tirerack.com has a set of 4 for $808, Shox.com has them for $829

Since a 5W-50 is a Porsche approved oil I will try that soon and let everyone know.

I am a chemist, polymer chemist, materials scientist, biochemist, biophysicist and proud Porsche owner. FWIW. Perry, you were going to give me the part numbers for the additional components I need to use on the PSS9s.

Does anyone have PSS9 install instructions for a 996 C2 (2000)? I wanted to see what parts are re-used so I can order new ones.

Also, some posts I have read indicate that the PSS9 is only adjustable for rebound and not compression damping. However, the Bilstein literature on their website indicates that there is adjustment for both rebound and compression. Are there 2 separated knobs for independent adjustment of the compression and rebound?

Thanks

I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 but recently went 10W40 as it was in the manual. Just changed about 7000 miles ago. Should I go back to 0W40?

Got a 2000 C2 996. Recently noticed that the oil pressure at idle is about 1 maybe a little less. Is this an issue? I don't seem to be loosing oil. Typically it stays the same place on the dipstick until I change it at about 10k miles. Thought I might have an AOS issue but I don't have any smoke on start-up. I have read others having about 1.5 bars at idle (when engine warm).

Comments?

I have a 2000 996 and a buddy with a 1995 993 C2. We both need to replace the suspension (springs, shocks, rubber pieces) as well as brakes. I have replaced the springs on mine (996) once so sort of know how to do it. Is the 993 pretty similar? I was thinking that we could do both of them in 1 day. Although it did take me about 11 hours to do mine the first time (by myself) that is because I had a pretty pesky rear mount that took 2 hours to get off (other side took about 45 minutes). Same with the front, first one took about an hour, the second about 30 minutes. A lot of cleaning and looking over things filled the rest of the time.

Anyone done both kinds of cars and care to respond, thanks. I have some power tools (compressor, air ratchet, impact wrench) and a low clearance floor jack.

Not sure which hose your referring to. Are you saying that it should idle smoothly once I remove it? And if it doesn't then the AOS is bad?

Thanks for the help

This has been happening about 1.5 years. I have gone through many variations of gas especially after the hurricanes hit Texas. Porsche dealer told me to drop down to mid-grade because of less ethanol impact. Didn't seem to matter.

Okay, I have been reading the posts about the AOS and am a little confused. I have a 2000 C2 tip and was looking for the source of a possible vacuum leak. Decided to take the oil filler cap off and found some significant suction. Also, the car idle became a little rough. Reading posts suggests there should be anywhere from no vacuum to a slight vacuum (not sure how slight "slight" is). I do notice some oil accumulation on the outside of the intake plenum on the drivers side. Also, I have cleaned the throttle body and it was fairly dirty and could see some oily residue inside the plenum. I don't really notice smoke on start up except when it is very cold out (thought that was condensation). Is there a good and correct way to test the AOS?