goldnogard

for the fuel filter

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=19950

Hello, so this is the problem I am facing now. I have a boxster 98 2.5 tip that I upgraded to “1999” 996 3.4L. I am using boxster harness modified the harness by adding ground to pin 58. It seems to me the car is running rich. You can smell it from the exhaust; also the car loses gas real fast. When car is running and I step on the gas black smoke comes out of the exhaust. The car runs strong and doesn’t seem to lose any power; the only noticeable thing is the black smoke and of course losing lots of gas. I hooked the computer to both PS2 and OBDII and these are the codes I found:

PS2: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0131, P0151

OBDII: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0151, P0131, P1115, P1119, P1319, P1313, P1316.

At this point I am not sure what’s causing the engine to run rich... ECU, O2 sensor? Help please

Thanks

Ali

OK. Finally problem solved:

1) I had 3 bad O2 sensors, and I know why. Well actually I got 3 after market O2 sensors "$18 each- I was curious". I cut the old sensors connectors and reconnected the wires from new sensors to old connectors. Now I am not sure if the sensors are not good for boxster’s application, or if I made a mistake and miss-wired. As a solution I got 3 new O2 sensors and that resolved the issue. "I shall get the after market O2 sensors try and re-wire them see if I can make them work". Car did not run rich any more, no smelly exhaust or black smoke.

2) The second part of the problems was caused by a leak in the cold Air intake hose connecting air throttle body to air intake cone. All the after market hoses I purchased "as much as $375" did not work and kept leaking air. I think they did not work because they were designed to fit a car with e-gas air throttle “which points opposite direction from none e-gas. At the end I got 3" aluminum pipe + 2 x 90 degree silicone hoses + 2 straight silicone hoses and D-clamps. Customizing cold air intake hose is the way to go. Looks nice, fits perfect. No more Air leaks and no more CE warning!!

"p.s i shall add pics later in my '2.5tip to 3.4 conversion' post"

A serious thank you to Loren and Todd, you guys rock

Thanks again

Ali

:renntech:

Do you mind posting the info on the generic o2 sensors that you used? Where did you buy them? Did you do any special type of connection from the old wires - new?

I shall post the info soon, I will try and correct my wiring and use all 4 generic sensors this time "last time I used 3 generic and one factory original". I got the O2 sensors off of ebay for about $25 each I think "on ebay under boxster parts". I shall rewire, reinstall and see if that resolves the problem.

Goldnogard

What kind of fuel mileage were you getting when it was running without all the CEL's problems

Catman

The CEL problems started right after i installed the 3.4 on my boxster, so i always had the CEL lights from day one. after swapping the O2 sensors + fixing the cold air leak, thats when all CEL codes were corrected. only now my 3.4 boxster runs normal "i am guessing it has the same fuel mileaga as a 996". if you have other ways of telling fuel mileage let me know and i shall test.

Ali

Ok it seems like I resolved my CE issues with the car, now I need to buy a Durametric tool to clear Airbag light. Does any one know if airbag light would prevent airbag from working?

Ali

That will depend on what the fault code is that turned the airbag light on.

Well after the 3.4 install on my boxster, the airbag light came automatically. When I plug my ODBII it shows no error codes “using 996 odometer in my boxster”. From what I read here, it seems like a Durametric tool should clear the airbag light. I was just wondering would clearing the airbag light affect the airbags or disable them?

No, clearing the fault does not affect the air bag performance. If the fault is still present it will cause a fault (and light) again until the fault cause is corrected.

thanks

Hello, so this is the problem I am facing now. I have a boxster 98 2.5 tip that I upgraded to “1999” 996 3.4L. I am using boxster harness modified the harness by adding ground to pin 58. It seems to me the car is running rich. You can smell it from the exhaust; also the car loses gas real fast. When car is running and I step on the gas black smoke comes out of the exhaust. The car runs strong and doesn’t seem to lose any power; the only noticeable thing is the black smoke and of course losing lots of gas. I hooked the computer to both PS2 and OBDII and these are the codes I found:

PS2: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0131, P0151

OBDII: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0151, P0131, P1115, P1119, P1319, P1313, P1316.

At this point I am not sure what’s causing the engine to run rich... ECU, O2 sensor? Help please

Thanks

Ali

OK. Finally problem solved:

1) I had 3 bad O2 sensors, and I know why. Well actually I got 3 after market O2 sensors "$18 each- I was curious". I cut the old sensors connectors and reconnected the wires from new sensors to old connectors. Now I am not sure if the sensors are not good for boxster’s application, or if I made a mistake and miss-wired. As a solution I got 3 new O2 sensors and that resolved the issue. "I shall get the after market O2 sensors try and re-wire them see if I can make them work". Car did not run rich any more, no smelly exhaust or black smoke.

2) The second part of the problems was caused by a leak in the cold Air intake hose connecting air throttle body to air intake cone. All the after market hoses I purchased "as much as $375" did not work and kept leaking air. I think they did not work because they were designed to fit a car with e-gas air throttle “which points opposite direction from none e-gas. At the end I got 3" aluminum pipe + 2 x 90 degree silicone hoses + 2 straight silicone hoses and D-clamps. Customizing cold air intake hose is the way to go. Looks nice, fits perfect. No more Air leaks and no more CE warning!!

"p.s i shall add pics later in my '2.5tip to 3.4 conversion' post"

A serious thank you to Loren and Todd, you guys rock

Thanks again

Ali

:renntech:

Do you mind posting the info on the generic o2 sensors that you used? Where did you buy them? Did you do any special type of connection from the old wires - new?

I shall post the info soon, I will try and correct my wiring and use all 4 generic sensors this time "last time I used 3 generic and one factory original". I got the O2 sensors off of ebay for about $25 each I think "on ebay under boxster parts". I shall rewire, reinstall and see if that resolves the problem.

I have an extra DME, whish you luck man. i see tholyoak is helping you.. so you are in good hands ;)

Ok it seems like I resolved my CE issues with the car, now I need to buy a Durametric tool to clear Airbag light. Does any one know if airbag light would prevent airbag from working?

Ali

That will depend on what the fault code is that turned the airbag light on.

Well after the 3.4 install on my boxster, the airbag light came automatically. When I plug my ODBII it shows no error codes “using 996 odometer in my boxster”. From what I read here, it seems like a Durametric tool should clear the airbag light. I was just wondering would clearing the airbag light affect the airbags or disable them?

I heard the K-Sport coilovers are HARSH. How do you like them?

Well I did not address the whole suspension issue yet. I took my car to an alignment shop for standard alignment, so far so good. But I do want to lower the car in the rear a little, plus see how far can I go with perfecting handling. I had Eibach springs with standard boxster suspension prior to this; the car drove more comfortably with the Eibach springs. Yes now it seems harsh in comparison to before. Where did you hear or read it rides harsh with k-sports? Any info would be helpful with my current updates.

Thanks

Ali

Ok it seems like I resolved my CE issues with the car, now I need to buy a Durametric tool to clear Airbag light. Does any one know if airbag light would prevent airbag from working?

Ali

Hello, so this is the problem I am facing now. I have a boxster 98 2.5 tip that I upgraded to “1999” 996 3.4L. I am using boxster harness modified the harness by adding ground to pin 58. It seems to me the car is running rich. You can smell it from the exhaust; also the car loses gas real fast. When car is running and I step on the gas black smoke comes out of the exhaust. The car runs strong and doesn’t seem to lose any power; the only noticeable thing is the black smoke and of course losing lots of gas. I hooked the computer to both PS2 and OBDII and these are the codes I found:

PS2: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0131, P0151

OBDII: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0151, P0131, P1115, P1119, P1319, P1313, P1316.

At this point I am not sure what’s causing the engine to run rich... ECU, O2 sensor? Help please

Thanks

Ali

OK. Finally problem solved:

1) I had 3 bad O2 sensors, and I know why. Well actually I got 3 after market O2 sensors "$18 each- I was curious". I cut the old sensors connectors and reconnected the wires from new sensors to old connectors. Now I am not sure if the sensors are not good for boxster’s application, or if I made a mistake and miss-wired. As a solution I got 3 new O2 sensors and that resolved the issue. "I shall get the after market O2 sensors try and re-wire them see if I can make them work". Car did not run rich any more, no smelly exhaust or black smoke.

2) The second part of the problems was caused by a leak in the cold Air intake hose connecting air throttle body to air intake cone. All the after market hoses I purchased "as much as $375" did not work and kept leaking air. I think they did not work because they were designed to fit a car with e-gas air throttle “which points opposite direction from none e-gas. At the end I got 3" aluminum pipe + 2 x 90 degree silicone hoses + 2 straight silicone hoses and D-clamps. Customizing cold air intake hose is the way to go. Looks nice, fits perfect. No more Air leaks and no more CE warning!!

"p.s i shall add pics later in my '2.5tip to 3.4 conversion' post"

A serious thank you to Loren and Todd, you guys rock

Thanks again

Ali

:renntech:

I read lot of info about about desnorkeling Boxsters, so I decided I will be the next one to take it out. I took it out last week. Yesterday heavy rain caught me while driving. Pretty close to home I noticed slight lower performance plus a little bit of hesitation when accelerating. Rpm needle was bouncing up and down, +- 200rpm. No code was thrown.

I parked my car. Today car is driving great. All problems are gone. So I'm thinking, did my car suck some water. How much?

Anyway I found that somebody cut the tube in 1/4 of the length and attach the "small bowl" back. Sorry for the description.

I did exactly same thing.

Put it back. Same great sound and car won't take any water ever again. Let's hope so.

Actually I had the same problem. I have a cold air intake "obviously no snorkel" one night I was driving and every thing seemed normal until it started raining, the car started hesitating and I noticed loss of performance, it seems almost like the car was gonna shut down!! Next day "sunny day" I drive the car and no problems. So I take the cone air intake filter out and notice dry dirt in the shape of raindrops around the cone filter housing. Now I am not sure if the rain caused the problem but it sure does seem that way.

Looks like you made a big jump! WOW!

Have Fun!

it has been a lot of fun so far, and i am learning alot as i go

thanks :)

Ali

Ok some upgrades i did : :D

" 19" wheels, 19X8.5 front + 19X10 rear + pirelli Pzero tires"

Ksport adjustable Coilovers, Adjustable Camber "The 3 pics above"

Tools to adjust coilover "from left to right.. (6brake line holder + 4 rubber gourmet) + ( 4 ride comfort adjustment pins "with orange head" ) + (ride hight adjustment tool "2 black pieces in the bottom" ) "

Coil over installed "notice the braided brake line"

Cross drilled brake rotor and painted caliber red + white porsche sticker

better pic of braided brake line "you can also see the Fabspeed 3.2 headers"

Rear Brace

Front brace

Eibach Anti-roll bar kit "front and rear" "notice my foot on bottom right hand side ha ha ha"

Adjustable front tension rods

Adjustable rear toe arms

Adjustable rear track arms

I used wooden base covered with matching carpet to mount amp1 + capacitor + 2sets of cross overs

then i added a 2nd floor out of plexi glass to mount amp2 and 2nd set of cross overs, eh first time

doing this but i think it looks good.. i hope lol.. oh yeah and i got rid of the spare tire to make space :(

here is whats inside:

Amp 1 : “A/D/S PQ40.2” 4 x 100Amp true RMS to run front and rear speakers “high

and mids”.

Speakers and cross overs: 2 X MB quart Qsd-213 for front and rear speakers .

Amp 2 : Rockford Fosgate to run subwoofer

Subwoofer : Focal 13ks , 5” 180 Watts “Bass”

Capacitor : Alumapro Cap5 , 5 Farad.

Head unit : Nakamichi CD-400

And by the way with this audio system music

sounds clear , crisp and sweet with convertable up or down "love it"

I modified both side doors with fiber glass to make a box for the small yet powerfull 5" woofer

"oh make sure you cover the side door covers when you work with fiber glass, that dust is really

hard to clean.. again first time working with fiber glass ;)"

ok i finished the sound system and all , but i need to take more updated pics, so i shall post some

more pics later. Please excuse my delays i get busy with work .

Thanks

Ali

:renntech:

I replaced mine about a month ago. Yeah I wish I took pics too. To me the trick was to unbolt the support brackets for the 3 pipes, then push them out of the bracket “this will make them loose” now its easier to work with the fuel filter. Then I removed the small bolt on the strap holding the actual fuel filter. I pressed firmly on plastic connectors to 2 ends of fuel filter and unplugged fuel filter “make sure u have a rag handy fuel will drip”. Disconnecting the ground was hard, I had to use long nose plier “although not recommended”. Now the fuel filter is free, but I couldn’t fit it between the 3 pipes, so I pushed it towards the rear wheel “end of car” and that was the only way I was able to remove it. Then I installed the new fuel filter the same way I uninstalled. When connecting fuel lines make sure u don’t force the plastic ends, you should hear a click when connected properly. I hope this helps if not let me know, I will go under the car and take pics

Ali

Ali,

Thanks for that, waiting for your updates. hope you'll get the runnuing rich problem sorted.

I bought a 97 boxster in the meantime, now browsing for a 3.4 engine and then i will follow you pioneers (ali for the tiptronic and tholyoak for the swap)

henk

Thank you, and congrats for the boxster. I shall post more updates as i figure out the rich mixture.

Ali

What DME are you using? and did you re-program it?

i am using the original boxster DME unit, but i flashed it "reprogrammed" to the 996 riginal "not sport or after market re-programming".

Hello, so this is the problem I am facing now. I have a boxster 98 2.5 tip that I upgraded to “1999” 996 3.4L. I am using boxster harness modified the harness by adding ground to pin 58. It seems to me the car is running rich. You can smell it from the exhaust; also the car loses gas real fast. When car is running and I step on the gas black smoke comes out of the exhaust. The car runs strong and doesn’t seem to lose any power; the only noticeable thing is the black smoke and of course losing lots of gas. I hooked the computer to both PS2 and OBDII and these are the codes I found:

PS2: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0131, P0151

OBDII: P0157, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0137, P0151, P0131, P1115, P1119, P1319, P1313, P1316.

At this point I am not sure what’s causing the engine to run rich... ECU, O2 sensor? Help please

Thanks

Ali

:D :D

Ali,

Flashing the 996 3.4 maps on the 2.5 ecu solved the shifting problems you had initially? So no need to do anything with the tiptronic ecu? How is it sofar, any hickups?

Henk

Hello Every one .I am back working on my boxster 3.4 :D ok flashing the ECU from 2.5 to the 996 3.4 ECU did the trick and fixed the shifting problems. now the tiptronic shifts perfectly, and the manual mood works perfect too. there is more work i did and i shall update when i get to my warehouse "where i work on my car". one update is connecting pin 59 to 996 manifold on engine. and connecting vacume lines properly "including the one for tiptronic".

Ali

Well I am wondering if you bolted the transmission mounts to body with the correct ft/lbs, some times a slight difference in the way the transmission connect to engine might stop the engine from starting. I say tighten the transmission mount, engine mount to body according to factory specs see if that helps. Good luck :)

Ali

Are you saying the bolts that mount the transmission to its y-braces or the bolts through the transmission mounts should have torque verified?

This sounds insane that it would result in total engine (ECU)immobilization, but I am willing to give it a try.

Thanks

I mean transmission support to transmission, and transmission to body, also engine to body. I think its about 48ft/lbs. for example let say the transmission to body is at 38ft/lbs while engine to body at 48ft/lbs, that means transmission sets lower than engine. You want to make sure they both set at the same level evenly. if you turn the ignition on, and you get power, and you hear the starter clicks but no engine start "starter does not engage", then that might be the case here.

Ali

Well I tried the negative cable to check grounds.

No luck

I tried to bump the starter at the terminals to see if it would turn over.

It cranks but no fire. Not sure if I am getting fuel or not. Does not smell like it. I am guessing that whatever is trying to keep me from using the starter is blocking the FP as well.

HELP!

Is it possible that the engine block(or other security) feature of the ECU has kicked in since it was disconnected?

Well I am wondering if you bolted the transmission mounts to body with the correct ft/lbs, some times a slight difference in the way the transmission connect to engine might stop the engine from starting. I say tighten the transmission mount, engine mount to body according to factory specs see if that helps. Good luck :)

Ali

Hello , could the Admin please delete this post "2.5tip to 3.4 conversionII", i made a mistake i realize now i still have more space to add pics in the original post :)

Thanks

Ali

OK here are more pics of the lowering mounts :

Again in red is where i made my 1/2" cut, then in green is the 1/2" spacer to lower the mount

this is the engine mount , i drilled 1/2" bar and cut it to lower engine mount

I hope this helps :)

Yes i do have the photos of lowered mounts, plus more, i just need to get the USB cable to my digicam. i should have it this coming week.

Ali

Thanks

:)

Sorry i didn't add more pics yet. i lost my USB cable to my digi cam, once i find it, or buy another i shall update the pics

thanks

Ali

Ali

A while back you said you would show how you lowered the engine mounts. Do you have any photo's of the mods you made to achieve this?

Thanks

catman

ok got the trans mount lowering pics :)

Notice how i cut about 1/2" of the trans mount and used 1/2" spacer

the green arrow points to the spacer, the red points to where i made the cut

This is the engine mount

I shall post some more pics of work done on this car

Ali

Ali,

Any issues with the tiptronic? Please let me know, i'm in Bangkok, and considering the same trick you pulled.....

Thanks for the write up, good to know it all fits with a tip.

Henk

Just make sure you flash your ECU from boxster to the 996 ECU, you can also get an after market Sport ECU for 996 "expensive". if you keep the boxster ECU , the car will run bad for tiptronic "EX: in tip tronic mood 1st gear changes around 2500rpm, but 2nd gear changes after 3500rpm!!! , then 3rd doesnt change untill about 5000rpm..etc" there is a guy here who can flash the ECU for a good price. if you want let me know and i will give you his info.

Ali

Yes i do have the photos of lowered mounts, plus more, i just need to get the USB cable to my digicam. i should have it this coming week.

Ali

Sorry i didn't add more pics yet. i lost my USB cable to my digi cam, once i find it, or buy another i shall update the pics

thanks

Ali

Ali

A while back you said you would show how you lowered the engine mounts. Do you have any photo's of the mods you made to achieve this?

Thanks

catman

Sorry i didn't add more pics yet. i lost my USB cable to my digi cam, once i find it, or buy another i shall update the pics

thanks

Ali