mudman2

It does sound like the shaft still

if you say the word

"wummering" over and over does that match the vibration pattern ?, also what speeds

Sorry I have to cry BS on this post..

DO NOT buy a Cayenne with the air suspension. The problem is the sensor on the air compressor. They fail frequently, and the ONLY US solution is to purchase a bundled air compressor, sensor, and air compressor bracket from Porsche North America at a cost of about $1900. The temperature sensor, which fails at least in high altitude cold climates with alarming frequency, is the part that fails. You may be able to get this part out of Germany for about 80 euros, if you choose, but of course Porsche won't stand behind this. If this sensor fails it will cost you about $2600-2800 to repair here at a dealer. And the other sensor, air compressor, and bracket you have that is good won't do you any good, because if anything fails again it will likely be this temperature sensor once again. Run, don't walk, away from Cayennes with air suspension. And BTW, I haven't found a way to convert away from the air suspension. Your computer and everything are all set for this. It will be a money pit!

There has never been such a fault in an numbers, the compressor rings go and can be home repaired for less that $50 using VW parts.

This sounds like someone whose dealer royally raped them

Its not plug and play and has to be programmed onto the system. The valve body first if I were you

18 should be better on Sand

or if the rear fails it auto switches over to front on second try

it can be coded out using PIWIS at a dealer or an indy if you can find one. it will be about an hours labor. Suspicious that there maybe another device in the system for ipod or phone tho

That's true you have never been able to obtain a Steel Spring TT because they never made one. 03/04 struts had some issues (at least 2 that i know of personally over 130K miles) but it really is the best suspension by far.

Once you had it you will never go back to steel (to adapt another phrase)

For all practical purposes

I drive in low all the time, I drop to load level to pose hahaha

If you drive off in load level it will raise to NORMAL level almost as soon as you start to move, I always catch it and set to low.

I use high only when the snow is deep (I don't off road) and High Terrain level when I go thru the car wash since it cleans the sides better I feel.

On the freeway the level sets itself anything over 78, no matter what setting you have set, the PSM takes over and adjusts for handling and then restores to normal level when its done.

All I know for sure is when my Tranny control unit was replaced on the 04S I had, they had replaced the transmission under warranty to an 05, they had trouble until they updated software to match on the other systems also

I would be careful, I am not so sure you can just replace the unit without adding it to the system properly. The other software loads must support the version on the control module

You will need to hook up a Durametric or PIWIS to read the error codes

Its a Navtec proprietary format, did not respond to tools available to me, maybe someone else has done it

when the battery starts to go all sorts of strange things start happening, after market batteries are ok, the age is the problem

I would be shocked if that was true

Replace the battery

A high mileage car driven fast, I can see it

That's what I used to get while towing when new

One battery is dead, the second insert activates the second battery

My guess is that they are original, replace both. You will get more and more false errors as it gets worse. Its time

at that age if the original pumps are still there theres a good chance

fuel pump

OK the last 2 are of the ODB Connector cover, its located above your left foot, drivers side (left seat). its broken off at the edge which is quite common. throw it away, not needed.

The first 2 look like a heating vent from under the seat

will stay on for preset period

sound like NO would be the answer unless it was dealer maintained in which case they would have been

With no knowledge about service history I would prepare to change the fronts including rotors. Its not a bad job, the rear rotors are another problem

If you can get release oil in there a few days prior you will be doing yourself a big favor because the pins will be stuck solid by now, get a decent punch and a big hammer haha

I agree the codes will come back after clearing

You dont give any more info on the car, MY / Mileage, but if the brake warning goes off front, then you may be in luck because you can get 2 pad changes on a set of rotors for sure (although people will disagree) It really depends on the mileage you have done

1st change front about 38K,

2nd change front with Rotors about 70K

1st change rear about 60K

2nd change with Rotors about 120K

This is not a guess, I did this on my S and it was fine as a DD, not a racer (well sometimes maybe)

Or you could take it out and drive it like you stole it for 30 minutes, it will do the same thing almost