WeekendWonder

Is it possible to tell what spring and shock are in this photo? They are no longer on the car. I'd like to know if they look like the original shocks and springs. :renntech: The car doesn't have M030 on the factory options sticker but it was pretty low already!

Hi Loren. Any chance of sending this through? Thanks and Merry Xmas. Just go here and search for hardtop and I believe you'll find what you are looking for. Thanks ;)

Hi Loren. Any chance of sending this through? Thanks and Merry Xmas.

I recently acquired a used wall mounted hard top stand part # 000 044 000 39. The previous owner has at some point dismantled it, lost some of the fixings and put it back together completely incorrectly - like a challenging puzzle for the future owner :rolleyes: I'd appreciate any photos of how it should fit together and line up or even better a copy of the instructions! Thanks in advance if you can help.

Check the WIRING holes from the front cowel in to the car. These are behind the battery and provide an entry point to the cabin. Especially if you have an aftermarket audio/nav system with lots of wiring going to the front boot, the rubber grommits might be out of place or damaged.

I think the code differences might be colour related. I got the panels and seem to fit fine. It's not a shiny black leather at all.

I want everything! Have it as a daily street car - and go to the track without ice skating around the seat. In hope of achiving this, definitely getting racing seats but being budget-minded in case the whole thing doesn't work out. These are the seats currently being pondered over: Corbeau racing seats If anyone has these seats or a view on them I'd appreciate your comments. They recline and fold forwards allowing access to the rear seats. I hope the seat resolves most of the movement but a harness would be even better. So how about if you have sports seats but no harness/roll bar? Is there a harness on the market that can anchor elswhere on a 99 C2 Cab?? Can the seat itself be used or is that too much force for the 4 bolts holding it down?

Thanks Loren :cheers:

Is the panel the same for 99 + 03 model?? (Based on UK if poss).

I think I'm down to the last leak in MY99 Cab (for now!). Thanks to the folks that helped so far. :cheers: This one is at the bottom of the drivers door (RHD) under the speaker BUT NOT due the the liner as this has been changed and checked - I am convinced of this! The fabric part of the interior door trim seems to be 'sucking up' the water which collects just under it. The pool of water stays inside the groove/seal on the body of the car - it is not a huge amount. It is not going in to the cabin (which is a plus), but when I open the door after rain I notice the fabric under the speaker is wet and sometimes it drips on the floor. My hunch is that it's coming through the gap between the door and the front wing and there should be a seal which diverts it out but it's not doing it's job efficiently! Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

"Why do you want to know you gold diggin little whore" :P

Thanks very much for the info and great photo. That is certainly the elusive 3rd one!

seen lots of posts about door sensors failing and door thinking it's still open. Courtesy lights stay on etc. I started getting this after changing the door liner to stop water coming through the door panel. So where is the door sensor causing this? Thanks.

Hi CabC2 Don't do anything that doesn't feel right to you as you have to foot the bill if it all goes t1ts up! It's probably impossible to latch the 3 hooks all the way without someone pushing down on the clamshell at the same time as you spin the hex tool. I would not try to force it without someone applying downward pressure over the hooks. Let's check if your issue is the same as mine was though. 1) Can you hear/feel the clamshell motor spining (ineffectively) when you try to operate from the switch? - answering yes suggests it is the sync issue. 2) Does the rest of the hood open/close process work electrically if you manually move the clamshell with the hex tool? Let us know how it goes.

Done with grommet - managed to get the wires coming out of the hole on a downward slope so let's hope gravity works for me now! Blasted with bathroom silicone sealant then covered with a peice of plastic sheeting. Fingers crossed! Thanks for not letting me take those hoses off :)

Thanks Loren. They are all rubber and the part numbers are 996.572.583/5.01. As I was poking around in the area I kept seeing small amounts of vapour. Car is stone cold. Any idea where this is coming from? The bigger picture is that there is big a hole which has audio etc wires coming through at an upward angle behind the pipes. Water coming down the windscreen get's on the wires and trickles all the way down in to the cabin - hence my posts about wet driver's footwell! There is a rubber grommet/plug but it's flat and isn't doing a very good job. There are a lot of cables going through because of the Kewnwood TV/SatNav unit. I'm contemplating going crazy with a tube of bathroom sealant! Any better ideas would be gratefully recieved. The urgency is due to the pretty hard rain we're having here!

What are the 2 hoses right behind the battery on a MY99 996 cab? If they're part of the aircon system is there any way to temporarily disconnect one side of each one without losing the gas and having to recharge the system? Thanks in advance.

My car is also doing this now. The water is dripping from under the passenger door speaker in to the footwell. I know the door trim and membrane had been taken off before by the previous owners but it never leaked. Car has just been with OPC for various things and (maybe coincidentally) it has come back with this glaringly obvious leak as it's raining! What could they have done or to be less accusative, what could have happened??

Turns out there was some loose/damaged trim on the underside. All repaired now. ;)

Hi CabC2 Don't do anything that doesn't feel right to you as you have to foot the bill if it all goes t1ts up! It's probably impossible to latch the 3 hooks all the way without someone pushing down on the clamshell at the same time as you spin the hex tool. I would not try to force it without someone applying downward pressure over the hooks. Let's check if your issue is the same as mine was though. 1) Can you hear/feel the clamshell motor spining (ineffectively) when you try to operate from the switch? - answering yes suggests it is the sync issue. 2) Does the rest of the hood open/close process work electrically if you manually move the clamshell with the hex tool?

When my n/s/f wheel was taken off for balancing recently, a deep circular groove in the tyre (to the cords) was apparent all the way around, about 1cm from the rim. This is on the back of the tyre (the side you don't see). The groove is no more than 1 or 2mm thick. Couldn't see anything protruding in the wheel's path at full lock in either direction. That tyre has never been flat let alone run flat since the car has been in my possession and there isn't any damage to the external facing tyre wall. Anyone encounter similar tyre damage before?? Not expecting a deluge of responses to this one but still hoping for some :lightbulb:

Should be in your manual. Two presses on my Cab remote disables infra-red sensors. Press no.2 could be too quick (reason for inconsistency). Leave a short gap.

Hi CabC2. It's worth trying what I did before going to the dealer. If it turns out not to be a warranty issue they will charge $$$ you regardless.... With the engine off so you can hear, try to operate the roof by holding the button down constantly. If we have the same problem, you will eventually be able to hear clicking relays and the clamshell motor spinning for a few seconds but obviously not moving the clamshell. If that is the case here's how mine started working again. I fully opened the roof, helping the clamshell along with the emergency (see manual for procedure) hex tool (anti clockwise to open), this allowed the roof to open fully electrically, then I closed the clamshell (clockwise with the hex tool). Then you need someone to push the clamshell down while you rotate the hex key another turn clockwise for it to lock in place (3 hooks grab the clamshell - you can see them when it's raised - one at the back and one either side). You do need to apply substantial force to do this. I wore down my hex tool as they have soft heads but luckily had alternative tools in the garage! However with the better tool I was able to turn the spindle further and found some free play BEYOND what I though was the final position. There was another 2 turns or so clockwise. I thought to try the roof from the button at that point. It worked fully and has done ever since. A fair assumption is that the clamshell motor was out of sync, hence the rest of the process was stuck indeed waiting for the clamshell! Not sure the diagnostic work or the fix would be covered under warranty although I would certainly view it as a mechanical failure! I will also be following Izzy's excellent hydraulic fluid top up instructions. Good luck!

Thanks I will read up on it. My understanding is that the ROW stock suspension is stiffer. Has anyone got experience of X74 vs the ROW suspension which is on my car? Edit - Sorry should have done a search before asking.

I would have thought a properly installed aero kit, front end included, would help reduce lift in the front, not induce it. As to vibrations over 80 I think you have to get your tires balanced, but don't rule out an out-of-round tire. The other thing worth exploring would be to lower the car slightly, with a different suspension set-up, unless you have already done so. I do think you should research what changes were made to the 2002 models to address this issue and see if you can implement some, but I would have thought with your GT3 kit, it would go along way to doing that. Going to get tires balanced, check for tyre problems and wheel buckle this weekend. Any pointers for a starting point/good source on the 2002 improvements? Sounds like a good path to go down.