WeekendWonder

Will try it tomorrow in daylight. Thanks again to you and RFM.

The elbow piece looks somewhat collapsed/folded which might constrict the flow.

Thanks can see it now. It is on the left and quite different to the photo above. How do you clean it through?

I took off the small rubber elbow piece. It was attached to a long tube which runs along the inside of the car under the carpet and towards the back. I'm trying to avoid taking up the whole carpet.

Loren? Anyone? I'd really like to fix it this weekend.

I've searched the site for quite a while but can't see instructions for accessing the AC drain pipe to clear it.

This is a UK/RHD C2 Cab and there is a little dampness just on the passenger (left) side. All other drains etc were checked/cleared already.

Do you access it from inside the cabin under the carpet or from under the car?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

After 1-2 laps of a 4 mile circuit the brakes start to judder and the whole car vibrates when the brake pedal is pressed. They are still effective but got me thinking something's not right!

Did a few laps with cooling down rests in between and there was no deterioration in the braking performance - but the vibration was like going over a cobbled street at 70mph!

After coming off the track drove home 50 miles - no problems at all.

The pads and discs look fine from what is visible without taking the wheels off

It simply doesn't happen when the brakes aren't hot

The only thing done recently (since the last track day) was a brake fluid change by an OPC. DOT 4 to DOT 4.

ABS still functional

I understand it's a good idea to upgrade pads, discs and fluid but I don't feel this is the source of this problem, as I would do 5-6 laps without any problems previously.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Please remember that the easy fix for a broken filler tube is simply reconnecting it with epoxy. Just clean it up, apply the glue and you are good to go.

Is this the right stuff?

Linky

Hi. Just got new front doorcards for the 996. As there is an orientation light I feel compelled to make it work!

How involved would it be to wire it up?

Because of the "lazy" cranking I would check the battery on a reliable tester and if it is okay then start looking for a poor chassis ground.

Dud battery it's official. Thanks Loren. :)

Would have been great for cutting through traffic B) If I could control it... and maybe get little flashing blue LED too.

Anyway would appreciate any help.... got in to my 996 today after unlocking with the fob, fired her up and after a couple of seconds later the alarm went off. I decided to drive back home rather than be a spectacle for the hundreds of people in the car park at the time!

It continued sounding for around 1 mile, with brief (2 second) pauses every 30 seconds or so. It stopped sounding without me doing anything in particular.

- It was raining heavily yesterday but the but the electrics under the seat are bone dry.

- The battery seems OK but the engine has always cranked a bit 'lazily' when starting.

- I think a genuine alarm sounds the siren AND the horn. I could only hear the siren.

When I got home everything seemed normal.

Any ideas what could set the alarm off but not make the immobiliser kick in like this? :wacko:

Any requirement to reset the DME going from stock to performance filter?

OPC Cambridge said they normally do both the IMS and RMS together and would use the new bolts.

As this turned out to be no more than a standard case of RMS pleaswe feel free to delete the thread as I can't see much value in it now!

Thanks for all the help though :renntech:

The new springs (on the front at least) are 29513 VA - They are not 29513-2 as per the website listing for Cabrios.

H+R

The geometry/alignment sheet provided when the work was done says "Carrera X74 Sport Suspension (-30mm)" at the top so I think the indi was expecting a 30mm drop too. They are supposed to be a top indi!

The 'phantom object' was a 1 inch diamter flat rubber washer :blush: It had to be squeezed in there by someone... and they get my vote for self-entertainment :clapping:

I have RoW M030 on mine, and the distance from the rim (18") to the arch is 10cm, if that's any help. I can also tell you that the spring platform on the strut is at the same height for M030 and standard, the ride height being determined by the spring length. I know because I fitted standard struts to try and soften the ride a little, and I measured them carefully before I swapped them over.

Thanks for the reponse. ROW M030 being -10mm lowering? So would you expect H+R springs should take it down to 8cm from the rim to the arch??

Btw I have the brand new original M030 springs if you need them.

Looks like a stock spring. I can see what looks like a yellow dot on the spring.

here is a stock spring and a ROW M030 spring:

Hey thanks Orient Express. That makes total sense (dirty yellow or dirty orange!)

I just don't understand why the car was already so low that after installing ROW M030 there was no noticable effect on height.

I'm was pretty sure the suspension was the original stock set up so around 8 years old. Just began to doubt this when the car came back with M030 with H+R 30mm lowering springs and seems to be the same height.

Front PU (GT3) Chin to ground = 10cm

Side skirt lower point which is near the rear wheel = 13 cm

Front rim up to wing/arch 9cm

Rear rim to wing/arch 9cm

Any ideas how this could be?

Thanks guys. I'll get it booked in to the stealer and post back.

Any idea what the the stance would be on replacing the IMS under warranty even if it hasn't actually failed?

Thanks again I think we're on your specialist subject now :lol:

Have you tried to pull it out?

Thought I'd check with you guys first! Will go carefully and shout back. Definitely an RMS failure though I take it i.e. should be covered under warranty?

Maybe I am missing something but I dont see anything except an RMS oil leak. Where in the pic exactly is this piece of stuff you mention?

The RMS is rubber molded over a metal flange. It is highly unlikely to break up wthout you getting to know about it in a serious way. I cant see anything in the pic as I said but if its going to be one of the seals it would be the IMS. But it cant exactly fall out of the belll housing and if the IMS felll out its housing it is likely to be very serious. A leaking IMS is a different problem to a missing IMS...heaven forbid.

Look at the nut in the top right of the pic, slightly to the left of it there is some rubber protruding. I'm now thinking a bored technician stuffed a rubber washer up there because he got annoyed some oil dripped on his head! :P

Looks too small to be either seal... mostly likely a piece of clutch facing or ???

I had the car since July 07. First noticed oil on the drive early November.

No work involving the transmission or cracking that seal open done at any point during my ownership.

Is it definitely RMS though?

Dare I tug at it to see if it's actually attached? :rolleyes:

Would you expect to see a part of the seal (or some seal anyway) hanging out of the join on a car with RMS/IMS failure (see top right area of photo)?

I have the Porsche extended warranty but I wanted to be 100% sure before racking up hours of exploratory work bills in case it something else!

Also do you think someone could have picked the seal out to cause the leak hence get the work? Other explanations?

Went with ROW M030 with H+R lowering springs. Definitely worth the money - thanks for all the advice guys :D

Now I finally understand what people emean by it settles when you pick up speed!

Check your option codes under the front hood. As far as I know all cars were delivered with either standard suspension (no option code in most cases) or sport suspension M030.

Definitely not on my sticker but the car is definitely has new H+R 30mm lowering springs and M030 shocks now but doesn't seem any lower than before!

Any guesses as to why this could be?

Ok, we need the color (or colour in your case) dots on the spring.

Should be two color dots together for spring type and for spring tolerance.

Was hoping that wouldn't be the case. Had the suspension changed over to ROW M030 with H+R springs and the indi binned the old parts so no chance of better phots. It came back at what I think is exactly the same ride height.

It was and still is about 9cm from the bottom of the wheel arches to the edge of the rim and 13cm from the bottom of the side skirt to the ground at the lowest point.

I don't have a way of measuring formally. It does feel better but I'm wondering what the previous owners had done.

What photo?

I blame it on the excitement of going back to work tomorrow... :rolleyes:

I had a similar but intermittent problem some time ago.

It is VERY easy to trap the cable which connects to that microswitch between the door card and the door in proximity of the hex bolts.

If the shielding is broken and the 2 wires make contact it is the equivalent of holding the internal door lever open all the time (hence triggering the microswitch). The car thinks the door is being opened and keeps the courtesy lights on, won't allow locking/arming of alarm etc....of course the small areas of contact between the wires and general movemement in that area made the problem intermittent and even harder to trace!