kbrandsma

I think that is a good idea to change O2 sensors, reset the the codes and see if they appear on the other bank. You may also have a vacuum leak, a faulty gas cap or leaking oil filler tubes. A bad AOS can reign havoc on oil filler tubes. Let us know what you find out.

HI ,Dose any one know of where i can get my calipers re-conditioned as the laquar is coming off them and looking a bit tatty ,

Thanks

I chose to repaint mine to red and they are holding up very well. I bought the caliper paint from Tirerack and a set of decals off of eBay. Fairly easy projects (see below.)

Here is the link to a thread on the DIY PRESS HERE

Oil on top of the engine is a symptom of bad oil fill tubes. Easy to check. How is your AOS. A faulty one can raise havoc on your fill tubes.

It sounds like the expensive parts have been replaced. I would replace your gas cap if original and check for vacuum tube leaks and leaks in air supply or arounf airbox. Do one thing at a time. Reset your codes and dive through several drive cycles to determine what is going on.

Fault Code P1602 usually is a recent disconnected battery. It should go away after clearing.

Good luck!

Congrats and way to go!

:cheers:

I would get to the battery and disconnect for 5 minutes or so and reconnect to see if that doesn't help.

I believe, the fact, that the key from the drivers side can manually operate the windows can rule out the ignition switch at this time.

You can access the front trunk cable without taking off the right front tire. Turn the wheel all the way to the right and remove plastic pull rivets and one 10mm nut and you can reach in with your hand on the trunk/back side of the headlight tray and grab the wire and pull it. Might be a good time to route the manual pull to the tow hook in the front bumper.

Also, can you insert your key in the driver's door and hold the key all the way to the right or to the left for several seconds and operate the windows up and/or down?

Iv've used the Mann filter before without issue and have since alternated between the OEM charcoal activated and knockoff brands.

Here is a photo of both of them side by side. The "S" oil cooler will fit and is just taller with more oil cooling capactity.

Thanks JFP

Sweet!

:clapping:

When replacing the plugs check for oil and replace "O" rings (2 per tube) if oil is present. Examine coil packs and if they are not cracked and they are in good shape you can save your money and reinstall them. I have 120K and change plugs every 30K and have not had to replace a coil pack yet.

Diagnosis Procedure:

Here is a link to Pedro's Garage Spark Plug DIY. PRESS HERE

Here is a link to a thread in Renntech with a great discussion on coil packs. PRESS HERE

:welcome:

I think a little white smoke for a while is typical. It is also a good idea when replacing the AOS to replace the "J" tube that connects from the AOS to the throttle body.

Hi BoxsterSteve,

A faulty light switch is a fairly typical problem. The part number is 996.613.535.xx. The cost is about $150 CAN.

Here is a link regarding the switch. PRESS HERE

Welcome to Renntech!

:welcome:

Does that 90 include labor from a dealer? Is this something I should get done right away? I've also heard but never confirmed that if the light is on that means the airbag isn't going to operate. Is that true?

You might want to invest in a Durmetric Tool. If you plan to do any DIY projests (airbag is a very doeable project) it is worth every penny. I replace my passenger side seat belt buickle and contacts on my 98 not to long ago.

I already tried the dry ice trick. It helped but did not take it all out, that part of the fender has a lot of curve to it.

Yes, it works great!

How do you test the cap?

And nobody thinks this could be the shock, or is it too much fluid for a shock?

Maybe cheaper just to update your cap to the 04 version. Cost $25 plus shipping. You can have your cap tested at any radiator shop.

BTW - Was it a bad microswitch? I am having a similar issue with my driver side window on my 2004 911 Cabriolet. IThe window goes down a bit when I open the door but when I let go of the handle it goes back up. Therefor when I shut the door the glass hits the frame of my 2004 911 Cabriolet.

I pulled the sane code below from my Durametric:

60

Central locking limit position

Lock not reached

Status: not present

Frequency counter: 1

I was going to try to train the window again (hold 5 sec in the up/down position) however my gut is that it is a fleeting idea.

Any recommendations from others would be appreciated. In particular:

1) What is the part number of the microswitch in the drivers door?

2) Any postings on how to replace it?

3) Is it a ***** to do or is it relatively easy.

Thanks in advance - Steve

Thanks for the info. Yes, the battery did die a little while ago. I am using the Durametrics program and it doesnot give me the option to clear codes on the alarm system. I will look into the bad microswitch.

Alarm codes don't clear. The status tells you if it is present or not and the frequency counter increases by one (1) when the code re-appears.

Great thread. I just fixed mine with a new frame from Jeff at Sunset. I think it was about $45 shipped. It is nice not having the horn blast every time I hit the brakes. It had gotten so frequent I had to remove the fuse and go without a horn. The rubber bushes were not torn, but were very spongy and soft.

Local dealer said I had to buy a whole new steering wheel! Glad I looked here first since I didn't really know which part was failing from the PET diagrams.

Hi All,

I'm trying to do this fix, but I can't get the 2 screws behind the steering wheel to budge. I'm using a Torx screwdriver which feels like it's seating normally, but the screws seem much tighter than I would expect.

Am I doing something wrong? Are these screws usually this tight? And should I just try harder?

Thanks in advance,

Ross

I attach a pair of visegrips to the 30m Torx screw driver to get additional leverage. You are working from the front of the steering wheel so you turn the driver clockwise to loosen the screws. After loosening the screws from the airbag they don't come all the way out. There is a stop that keeps the screws in place.

Welcome to Renntech!

:welcome:

Lee,

Did replacing the shift cables fix the problem. This just happened to me this weekend except I was stuck in 4th. I was able to get under the car and manually shift it into second to get home. No side to side movement and once out of gear you can't get it back into gear.

Thanks in advance.

Marc

_______________________________

00 Audi TT, 99 996, 86 951 LS1

3.2 Conversion & 915 Rebuild Home Page

THE 951 Conversion

This is an old thread. Here is a link to a more recent one with similar problems.

PRESS HERE

Welcome Jacob!

Run a search on the clutch startup switch. You can jumper the switch so that the clutch does not have to be depressed during start-up. (not adviseable for safety reasons) It is a fairly inexpensive part from Sunset.

Here is a link to another thread on the issue. PRESS HERE

Becker CDR220

SN W5003055

Thanks!

:thankyou:

Hi, I have a 97 Boxter with a used engine that has about 25k miles. This morning my car wouldn't go in reverse. The gear shifter is loose but goes into the other gears. When I put it in reverse and give it gas, the car pulls forward. Any idea's or thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thx, Cyn

Check the connection of the shifter cables to the transmission.

Here is a link to a similar problem I had PRESS HERE

It almost looks like part of the seat rail cover. Can you post a couple other shots from different angles?

Hello everyone! Quick question...If I tie-wrap the pad sensor cable and do not connect it to the pads, will the warning light go on in the dash? I read in another section of our forum that you can snip and connect the cables closing the circuit so that the light will not go on disabling the sensor. The car is a 1999 Carrera. Thanks again!!

George

If your light is currently not on just tie them back. Otherwise determine which wheel has an open circuit and snip and connect the cables. I would recommend soldering them and and then use heat shrink to protect them from weather.