kbrandsma

Still shopping for a cheep boxster, found one on e-bay near by (2 hour drive is near). The seller says it was sitting for a while and wouldn't start, so he/she is selling it. Supposedly it ran when they parked it in a garage and they say there was no strange or catastrophic noise last time it ran. They owned it new. Anyone care to hazard a guess as to why it wont start? They are telling me it gets fuel and spark to all cylinders. I cant get a clear answer to compression and leak down questions and cam timing wasn't looked at. Apparently they have it at a shop now. The "buy it now" price may be possible unless it needs new cylinder sleeves. I know 99 is probably the worst year for cylinder sleeve issues. If I buy it and it does need sleeves it will sit again until I can come up with the money for L&N

It is always a good idea to store a automobile with a tank of fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer. I'm not sure what you mean by cylinder sleeves? Make sure the battery is fully charged. I certainly would not buy the vehicle if it won't start. Better to spend a little more with low miles, one owner and all service records (maybe this is) otherwise a cheap vehicle will be far from cheap down the road.

Check out Mike Focke's Web Page HERE for purchasing advice. A PPI inspection is always recommended.

I've been considering for a few weeks to retrofit my 2003 Boxster S with litronic headlights. I don't want to do just a bulb change and have been looking for a complete set of OEM litronic units. That's an expensive proposition, used ones are hard to come by and prices for new ones run about $2,600 from my favorite vendor, Suncoast. I found a seller on E-Bay that advertises Bosch OEM units complete for $2,000 but am a bit confused about adapatability. I spoke to the vendor and he says his units are simple plug and play replacements without a special harness, new ballast, etc. I've been under the impression that some type of special harness and a ballast unit was required to do the conversion and thought I'd ask the Forum members for some input. I recognize that I won't have the self leveling feature and can live with that and the condition of my original headlight lens is dictating that the assemblies need changing whether with stock incandescent units or with litronics.

Thx in advance for your input.

Lyn

If you don't want the self leveling feature then they are plug and play. SImply remove your existing pair and insert the litronic ones. There is a pair on this Board right now for sale by owner. Click HERE

I just purchased a 3 spoke wheel and recommend the seller.

You will also need to swap out the fuse by removing the 7.5 amp fuse in A9 and A10 and replace with 15 amp ones.

More info can be found in the TSB# 9415 found on this Board. You have to be a contributing member to access and download the Technical Service Buletins (TSB's.)

Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Hello can someone inform me what to do as my 1998 986 top will not operate after the car get wet!

Try the basics first. Emergency brake handle on? Key in the ignition and turn on. Release the top by pushing the button in, then pulling the lever back. Operate the top button on dash.

I just purchased a new Porsche Boxster outdoor car cover for my '99 986 and need some help on a couple of install questions. You might think well duh can't he read or figure it out but the cover I bought turned out to be for a 987 and not a 986 and I think the 987's are a little longer and wider. The lady who was selling it had gotten it with her Boxster and never opened it due to having a garage. She was confused about it's application and couldn't find the part number but for $75+$12 for shipping I couldn't pass this by. The cover seems to fit fine but the install instructions are vague about two things. The first instruction says to attach the suction cup to the windscreen. The only way I can get the cover to come out of the carry case is to attach the suction cup to the bottom of the windscreen in the middle of the wiper arms, otherwise the rear of the cover comes out where the front should be. Is this the correct place to attach the suction cup? The third step of the instructions is to lock the anti theft straps in the front bonnet. Where they are positioned, on the inside of the cover, it looks like they go into the bonnet from the top near the windscreen then the bonnet is closed. I guess the theory is the round cylindrical parts on the end of the straps catch inside the bonnet if someone tries to steal it. My question is is this the right place to put the straps as they really stretch out when the front of the cover is pulled on and are tight enough to bunch up the cover a bit where they are attached to the inside. Also couldn't someone just pull the cover up and cut the straps? Anyway if you have one of these covers and can answer my questions I would be grateful. I'm sure it will turn out to be a duh situation for me but that's happened before.

Windscreen is usually the rear lexan screen that is inserted between the rollbars.

Hello everyone, can you give me suggestions on why after replacing the bulbs on the rt side for the headlight and side maker light (orange one) still will not work. The funny thing is when I turn on the the knob for "actual" headlights both of the headlights work. ??? I have a 1999 boxster. thank u

If the left side works ok, try switching them.

Congratulations on your purchase

There is no break in to the clutch but you don't want to be slipping it either. Make sure you take your foot all the way off the pedal after release. If you are doing that and it is slipping take it back to the dealer and let him check it.

Thank you. I love the car. Update here... Drove it 700 mi home and it drives fine with clutch but there are "2 catch points" or friction points. I have the initial engagement at about 1/4 way from the floor and then the actual "grab" portion about 3/4 from the floor. The problem I have is that I rev the engine expecting the grab early near the floor and then "pop" it thinking it is fully engaged when it is not. Thus the burning clutch smell :( Does the clutch wear in to where those 2 points become really close together? When I "shortshift" it and just push it about 1/4 in from top and get disengagement but not all the way to the floor, I still get the same smell like the clutch didn't fully disengage to begin with. Am I missing something or is something wrong with how I am clutching? (or is the clutch having issues and what do I tell the dealer as I have never dealt with a Porsche dealer before) This car was owned by a porsche dealer mechanic but I have never dealt with a dealership directly before. Plus I am now in a different state than the dealer it was "serviced" at.

Thank you for the help thus far.

Harryrcb is correct. No break-in period for clutch. When you said dealer replaced clutch, perhaps didn't replace throw out bearing. Are they reputable? I would take it back. How many miles? Depending on the miles there are a few other things to service while tranny is out. RMS, IMS (retrofit), AOS, oil filler hose(s), dip stick tube to name a few. Not necessary to change all but easier to examine and then replace as needed from below.

Thank you guys very much. Your expertise is greatly appreciated.

Check your coolant cap. If it ends in 01 replace it.

Looking for advise on how to upgrade the stock CDR23 stereo system in my 2003 Boxster. I do not have door speakers only dash and would like to upgrade to something reasonable. I would like to know if the only option is to replace the entire sound system (head unit, add an amplifier, upgrade dash speakers, and add door speakers) or if anything can be done with current head unit. Suggestions appreciated.

What are your options codes?

Heart break comes to mind....

I went off to enjoy a great spring day, run to the gym etc. later tonight I see I have a fresh puddle of oil under the car (i am guessing 1/2 qt) . Any suggestions what I might begin with looking for?

Car seems to run fine with no abnormal symptoms.

Try to locate where the leak is coming from. Is it for sure oil? (rule out it's not coolant, transmission oil, or power steering fluid, etc) 1/2 quart is a lot.

Some common places for oil could include:

spark plug tubes on either side driver or passenger (usually small amounts)

AOS or the black small accordian rubber hose that is beneath it. More towards passenger side

Check around oil plug or oil filter (any oil changes lately) Center to slightly towards driver's side

or....

RMS or IMS dead center where the transmission bell housing meets the engine block (directly under the clutch)

Boxster '00 S.

I pulled into my garage this evening after driving 10 miles and had a puddle of water directly below my coolant reservoir. It was dripping while I watched (as best I could).

I filled it to below the max line just this morning. I did so because the coolant showed 1/4 inch below the minimum line.

Is there an overflow tube there?

Sound like a leak. I replaced that tank 4 years ago. Sheesh

Kent:

There is an overflow tube that runs from underneath the drain hole which at 9 o'clock when looking at the coolant cap (with the thin black plastic cosmetic cover removed), goes through the rear firewall and is then routed to an area just inboard of the right rear wheel well. The overflow will usually end up dripping onto the ground just inside the right rear wheel.

Since you just filled it, I would first check whether any coolant has indeed overflowed by pulling the small black plastic cover off (after removing the coolant cap and the oil fill cap).

Here is a photo of where the drain hole is located (disregard the other labels):

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, That is a great picture and a great reference. Thanks for posting.

KentV, if the radiator cap doesn't end in 03 or higher you definately need to start with the cap and replace oit.

I was working on the Boxster this weekend. Oli change, fuel and air filters, brake line flush, and a new starter. My starter was making that terrible sound at startup. When I finally got everything back together and took it for a drive I noticed no power steering and the warning lights were all lit up on the dash like a christmas tree. I suspected a broken serpintine belt.

I removed the front cabin engine cover and sure enough the serpintine belt was shredded and had jumped the pulleys. On a closer look the alternator bracket had snapped. Here is a shot the bracket.

Has anyone had a similar experience with their 986? (similar threads on 996 but not 986). Are there other underlying issues. Loose bolts? Etc... All the pulleys and rollers seem free spinning. It's interesting because I recently had the alternator out three months ago to get behind it to replace the changeover valve.

Does anyone have a source or part number for those mat clips?

I have the older style floormats that wander all over the place... clips are sewn into the oem mats, but no place to clip into on the seat.

I have a set. PM me if interested.

With 104 K on the speedmeter, replacing the MAF seems resonable to me. Not sure if you are the original owner or have all the old service records from previois owner but if the the MAF has never been replaced I would replace it. (Autohaus less than $200) shipped.) Easy DIY. What will your Indy charge? Anyone in your area that can exchange yours with theirs to determine? Just a thought.

My 2000 S Tiptronic lit the CEL a couple of weeks ago with the 1126 code. I looked over the engine and found a leaking oil fill tube and got it replaced at a local independent shop. The CEL came back on today after about 200 miles with 1126, 1128 and 1130 showing in my generic scanner.

Do those codes mean the motor is running rich or mean it's running lean? I'm a little confused because I've read some stuff that says it means it's running rich but everybody seems to give advice to check for vacuum leaks and that wouldn't make it run rich - just the opposite.

I don't hear any leaks after the oil fill tube was replaced. Before I could wiggle the tube around and hear a definite leak, now the replacement tube is mounted more solidly and no hissing. But if the codes mean the car is running rich I'm fighting a losing battle looking for intake leaks.

Assuming the MAF and O2 sensors are working OK, what could make the car run rich? The only things I could think of would be too much fuel pressure and (more farfetched) something in the fuel tank vent system that is feeding the intake gas vapors when it's not supposed to.

What's the best strategy... put on a new MAF and hope?

I had 1128 and 1130 and replaced the MAF. That's about $200. I would conclude that is most likely the problem before replacing. What are your symptoms? Maybe clean the MAF first. How many miles? Mine was 100K before MAF went bad and the engine sputtered at about 5K usually in third gear. I found a good price at Autohaus for under $200 shipped at the suggestion of a "Contributing Member" on this Board.

Air Oil Separator - you will find many discussions here about it's failure and replacement.

Here is a picture of the AOS from the top of the engine bay.

Here is the bellows (accordian hose about 1.5cm to 2.0cm in diameter). It is located at the bottom of the AOS

All of my triple square tools are too long, what did you use? I'm about to cut one....

I used a triple square 10mm from AutoZone. OEM brand. OEM Brand came in a package of three(3).

Similar to these.

PRESS HERE

I cut it off half way off and used a wrench to turn.

I may be in the wrong place, but since you all are talking about radios, I'll give it a shot.

I just, today, got my 1997 Boxster for a really good price. One reason, the CDR210 face plate is missing. I just saw a CDR210 faceplate on e-bay that I want to buy. However, I don't know if any CDR210 faceplate work with any CDR210 radio. If yes, I'll buy.

Anyone have the definitive answer.

The faceplate is interchangeable and will work fine. Make sure the black keys on the replacement plate are in good shape. Some have black paint missing in spots.

Leaking Oil Filler Tube!

Ok, so I removed the filler tube at the joint below the AOS J tube, placed a Gator Aid bottle cap over the reming finnet tube, taped it with duct tape and hey presto.....hissing sound gone, engine idling like a sweet Prosche should!

So my question, would a leak in the Oil intake tube, I.e crankcase vacuum leak have caused my CEL codes? I also just fitted a new Bosch MAF.

Very common to throw codes with cracked or leaking oil filler tube. It is best if replaced rather than taped. There are three tubes that connect from the trunk to the center front top of the enginge. The leak is usually between the 1st and 2nd joint, which is next to the AOS and under the air tubes and throttle body. Be careful if you attempt to remove and replace the 1st and 2nd tube because the 3rd tube is connected to the engine by a couple of thin plastic ears and they can break off. Ask me how I know:(

Here is a link to a recent Forum Discussion. PRESS HERE

Lots of excellent information on this Board about battery replacement. I replaced my battery recently and went with the Diehard from Sears for $139. The Autozone Duralast was $169. Both batteries are made by Johnson Controls (vs. Exide) PepBoys sells the Bosch battery for just under $100. It is interesting to read the older threads when prices were 50% cheaper.

My old battery which was an Interstate had a rear center vent tube and the new batteries at Sears and Autozone had a side tube vent. Both Sears and Autozone don't provide vent tube kits for their side vent batteries. Rear center vents tube adapters are female and slide over the vent hole on the battery and side vent tubes are male and insert into the vent hole.

Group 49 batteries are preferred in colder climates where more cranking amps are essential. The Group 49 batteries are three inches longer than the Group 48 and weigh more. Group 47 is even lighter and will work if that is a concern. The battery tray has adjustments and will accomadate all three.

Here is an excellent link on Renntech for more info. PRESS HERE

Here is the link to the Sears DieHard SIte. PRESS HERE

The battery is backed by 36-month free replacement and 100-month pro-rated limited warranty.

Here is the link to the Autozone Duralast Site. PRESS HERE

The battery has an 8 year warranty.

Here is the link to Pep Boys SIte. PRESS HERE

The battery is backed by 36-month free replacement and 96-month pro-rated limited warranty.

I have a 2004 C4S Cab that I'm installing a Dension Gateway in to hook up my iPod, as the Becker CDR23 completely stinks at playing actual CDs on the roads I drive on, constantly skipping.

The question is: this makes the CD-tray in the center console pretty redundant. I can apparently get a shelf-like thing (pretty much like the shelf below it, but a slightly different shape) to fit that spot, but does anyone have any better ideas? Having two little half-height shelves, one above the other, seems a bit odd.

I can say with certainty, however, that I'm not going to the trouble to move the HVAC console down there from its place above.

You mean like this? It is the same shelf only a different trim piece. I have both available. PM me if interested.

I finally pulled them out of storage and they are different pieces. No trim needed.

9965522530101C (upper shelf - radio support) - $44 List

9965522430101C (lower shelf - CD tray) - $44 List.

Hi all, I have a my1997 boxter LHD with 32000 Miles, my oilfill tube was cracked and porsche replaced this under warrenty, after about 250Miles my CEL was burning, i could see on the PWIS tool of the dealer that one 02 sensor was not working at all bank 2 after cat , so porsche replaced this ($600), i drove 150 miles and again the CEL, went back again and they did a full diagnose MAF was ok, power was ok, on my car but couldnt find any issue although my car was now reporting both bank cylinder 1-3 and 4 to 6 faulty or near limit, they resetted this with a pull of the accuc onnector ...today again my CEL burned, i have resetted this by pulling the accu cable and it was driving a little rough but after 50 miles seems ok now..does anyone have any idea what this fault can be? Can it hurt to leave this as i am afraid to go back to the dealer as they only want to replace parts like my o2 sensor which i think wasn't even faulty now...

I have bought the durametric software and cable for $150 on ebay so i am able to read out my car soon but any help would very welcome what i can check upfront before i go back to the (st)(d)ealer......

Any advice what to do is welcome, i am a newbie in this so please be gentle...i have not changed anything on my car like airfilters etc, and its just out of warrenty ..

Hallo,

If the CEL is not blinking you are ok. When you get the code(s) report back and we'll see what the issue is.

I've got a 2000 986 (non S). I would like to upgrade the head unit to something a little more modern. Possibly with gps, dvd, bluetooth, etc... What are my options. Not prepared to spend big dollars. Just want to find something reasonably price with great functionality. Anyone have any ideas???

I went with the Pioneer AVIC D3 and used the install kit from Trieullionaire or Euro MotorSpeed on eBay. This AVIC D3 unit probably has been upgraded to a different model. Mine is a couple of years old. I got the iPod adapter as well. $1000+

Are you looking for a double din? or single din?

Thank you, yes im in TACOMA. Thank you for the help, i do have the manual and will look for that wrench

I'll be in Tacoma this week. PM me if you need help.

I have a 2004 C4S Cab that I'm installing a Dension Gateway in to hook up my iPod, as the Becker CDR23 completely stinks at playing actual CDs on the roads I drive on, constantly skipping.

The question is: this makes the CD-tray in the center console pretty redundant. I can apparently get a shelf-like thing (pretty much like the shelf below it, but a slightly different shape) to fit that spot, but does anyone have any better ideas? Having two little half-height shelves, one above the other, seems a bit odd.

I can say with certainty, however, that I'm not going to the trouble to move the HVAC console down there from its place above.

You mean like this? It is the same shelf only a different trim piece. I have both available. PM me if interested.

Yes I know there's no factory turbo I figured aftermarket and the dealer didn't know about it.

Yes I do have aftermarket exhaust btw.

Welcome BTW

:welcome: