kbrandsma

I have been researching this for a while. Very nice look and this would seem to be the simplest approach I have seen yet. Could you go into more detail about the LEDs? What brand? Where did you get them?

I purchased them from AutoZone for about $8.00. There are two (2) in a set. I have also seen them at PEP Boys. I'll snap a picture of them installed and post. They are each about 6" long and have 6 LED lights each. You can cut them in half at a determined spot that is clearly marked on each light. Each light has about 3 feet of lead wire attached. In the package they have a battery pack attached that allows you to test them before purchasing. They also come in other colors like blue, red or green. They are very thin (about the thickness of two quaters.)

Looks cool! Nice job! Now...you have to make sure interior is spanking clean all the time!!! :)

Yeah, and keep the door sills clean to as well!

:welcome:

Great looking Pcar!

I recently decided to place some bright white LED's in both the driver's side and passenger's side footwells of my '98 Boxster. The lights are super thin and come with a 3M adhesive. I placed the driver's side LED strip on the vent tube that runs horizontally and the passenger's side LED strip accross the bottom of the footwell foam cover in the natural grove channel. The foam cover is held in place by 2 screws with large heads. Both sets of lights are wired together and are joined together on the passenger side above the foam cover (and now new LED light) and connect to two (2) wires, positive and negative, that run up the passenger's side "A Pillar" trim piece, then accross the top and connect to the center interior light. The positive is soldered into the "Y" shaped copper rocker inside the light switch and the negaitve is wire tapped into the center wire entering the switch.

It has the same off/on properities as the door lights with the added flair of manual on/off by turning on the center interior light. The center interior light and now footwells can be always on, always off and door and locking activated.

Here is a shot of the driver's side in my darken garage.

I am replacing the front bumper cover on my 2001 Boxster S. I have purchased a bumper on Ebay with a part # 997 505 311 00, will it fit my car?

Thanks

The 996 and 997 have totally different front ends, lights and bumpers. I think it can be done, just takes fender and hood upgrades as well.

986 front end

987 Front end

Nice remarks!

Try one of the reputable used part yards like Oklahoma Foreign or LA Dismantler

Los Angeles Dismantler for Porsche 911, Boxster, Cayman & Cayenne

9819 Glenoaks Blvd, Sun Valley, CA 91352

(818) POR-SCHE (767-7243)

info@911pcar.com

or 911pcar@gmail.com

818-768-0911 fax

http://911pcar.com and http://ladismantler.com

To contact Oklahoma Foreign:

For general information: info@oklahomaforeign.com

For Parts request: parts@oklahomaforeign.com

By phone: 800.462.2446 800.462.2446 (Toll Free)

:welcome:

It also sounds like you have a bad battery. I would remove the battery and take it to AutoZone, PEP Boys or similar and have them load test the battery. If you have a way to check for any fault codes. Sometimes places like AutoZone will loan you a code reader. Although they typically only catch emission codes. Not a reliable as a Durametric or other Porsche specific reader. Fault Code 1602 indicates a bad battery.

What year of Boxster is it? Tip? S? 5 speed? It is helpful to include specs on future posts.

Welcome again and maybe someone else can chip in on immobilisor possibility.

I'm mistaken. The original tool is 8mm outside (allen wrentch) and 5 mm inside (socket). I never leaned over and looked through the opening in the trunk to determne what the tool was turning.

OEM Tool

Closer look

Definately 5mm socket

Trying to help a friend change out a bulb on his headligths but he lost his headlight tool from his case. I no longer own a porsche so I don't have the tool either. Does anyone know if it is just a tool we can use or buy at home depot? Thanks fellas..

Yeah, it's a number 8 (hexagon) metric allen wrentch. A socket is female, you need a male allen wrencth. Probably more AutoZone than HomeDepot though.

I haven't seen a fuse diagram that mentions cruise control, is there a specific fuse I should check?

Fuse B7

The fuse is also for your brake lights.

Ever since I've had my car, the cruise control has not worked - the car IS equipped with cruise, it has the stalk for it, but when I press the on/off button the green light on the dash does not light up.

Obviously, I suspect the stalk's on/off switch, but there's other stuff in there. Does anyone know if I can get at the wiring without having to remove the steering wheel etc? Is it accessible from above with the instrument cluster removed? If I have to take the steering wheel off, I'm just going to swap in the 4-stalk unit with OBC while I'm at it...

Any suggestions are appreciated :)

I managed to track down the wiring diagram for a 98 Boxster - would anyone happen to have a higher res version of this diagram, perhaps for an '01 S?

Did you check the fuse? You have a PM.

Ever since I've had my car, the cruise control has not worked - the car IS equipped with cruise, it has the stalk for it, but when I press the on/off button the green light on the dash does not light up.

Obviously, I suspect the stalk's on/off switch, but there's other stuff in there. Does anyone know if I can get at the wiring without having to remove the steering wheel etc? Is it accessible from above with the instrument cluster removed? If I have to take the steering wheel off, I'm just going to swap in the 4-stalk unit with OBC while I'm at it...

Any suggestions are appreciated :)

I managed to track down the wiring diagram for a 98 Boxster - would anyone happen to have a higher res version of this diagram, perhaps for an '01 S?

You have a PM.

I add a Techron fuel treatment everytime I change the oil. I am currently pushing 110K miles.

:welcome:

Looks great. I like the front bumper! Looks like smoked rear taillights. Tell us more!

Devastating update time:

Last week I got a call from Bert Wolfe telling me there was a leak on the transmission and the seal had to be replaced (RMS). I tell them to go for it... Well, today they call me back and tell me that there were metal shavings in the transmission fluid and they recommend to have the tranny replaced. I cringed as he proceeded to tell me that a new replacement transmission was going to be $8000 and a used transmission is going to cost $3000.

(I am wondering if the leak was the transmission all along and they misdiagnosed it.) I wouldn't know how to prove it anyway.

I am checking around locally to see if any shops are able to install a tiptronic transmission in this Boxster, but I highly doubt anyone where I live can do this type of surgery.

The dealership said they would work with me on the labor, but at this point I'm not sure what my options are. Does anyone know of a place that I could find a 2001 Boxster tiptronic transmission?

Thanks for the help,

Aaron

Seems to high. Are they charging you twice for labor? Once for the RMS and then again to remove tranny? Just asking?

Hi all,

Just had my C2S MY 2006 returned from a service and there is now a squeak coming from the base of the steering column around about where it leaves the driver footwell and passes through into the front compartment. I took it back to the stealership who said not to worry about it but I find it a bit annoying and I can only thing it just needs a bit of grease or lubricant. The noise comes when you turn the wheel in either direction.

Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea for a safe lubricant I can use? I fear that if I book it in to get fixed the stealership will charge me thousands to take apart the whole steering column and apply a 5 EUR tube of grease. Much as I love paying them to stand around smoking while they charge me 140 EUR per hour I would prefer a simpler solution if anyone has one!

Thanks in advance,

Sam

Has the steering wheel been removed anytime recently?

Yes, it should be pushed all the way in.

I have been reading the vacuum canister has a bad track record.It has cracks that show up when pressurized under water .I am considering purchasing a smoke machine when the price is right.Any thoughts?

Yes, a smoke machine is the preferred way to go. A good Indy or shop should be able to do this locally and reasonably. If you end up purchasing one yourself and doing a DIY, let is know. A good write up will be very helpful!

Good luck!

I would check in the following order.

1. Spark plug tubes leaking

2. Bellows (accordian hose/ tube) on bottom of AOS (more on passenger side though)

3. RMS (most likely), especially if it appears to me a nosebleed dead center where the engine flywheel/clutch meets the bell housing of the transmission

4. IMS (same as 3# above) but more serious. The car is usually undriveable.

You probably won't be able to determine #3 or #4 until you remove the transmission. Great time to also replace clutch ad transmission oil.

Here is a DIY if interested. PRESS HERE

Thanks!

3. RMS was replace just over a year ago at 30,700 miles with a new clutch. Odometer just turned 35,000 so I hope that's not it. From what I read here, RMS would dead center of the engine. This is the drivers side. You can see it just behind the wheel well.

4. I'll do some searches for IMS, but the car runs perfectly from what I can tell. Smooth and fast with plenty of power.

I will also explore 1 & 2.

cab

It is also advisable to clean up the oil and then monitor it closely to determine the exact source. RMS's can also re-offend. I'm not sure where the oil cooler is located on your 996.

That's amazing the rat's nest you had!:o

I would check in the following order.

1. Spark plug tubes leaking

2. Bellows (accordian hose/ tube) on bottom of AOS (more on passenger side though)

3. RMS (most likely), especially if it appears to me a nosebleed dead center where the engine flywheel/clutch meets the bell housing of the transmission

4. IMS (same as 3# above) but more serious. The car is usually undriveable.

You probably won't be able to determine #3 or #4 until you remove the transmission. Great time to also replace clutch ad tranmission oil.

Here is a DIY if interested. PRESS HERE

Durametric will reset airbag light.

I am having the same problem chasing a similiar problem but with a P1124 and a P1126.I too changed my AOS to the new type with a new "j" tube.I sprayed starting fluid on all joints while running hoping that the engine would sputter and it didn't.I will get a fresh can of starter fluid tomorrow and will try spraying gas and oil cap while running and also the oil dipstick that someone suggested to you.I thought this problem was fixed until a mile from my home after a 25 mile trip.

The starter fluid works on vacuum hoses and connections before the fuel intake manifold (pre-spark plug.) It is not advisable to spray fuel or oil caps or dipstick tube as nothing should happen.