kbrandsma

Got any photos?

It looks like what you call your heater panel also includes a built-in trim piece. It may still fit in lower compartment.

OK here we go I have a 2000 boxster and I keep getting codes p1130 and p1128 I have replaced the oil filler tube had a crack in it put in a new MAF replaced the air oil separator new gas filter checked every were for a vacuum leaks car runs just fine I clear the code

drive it for about 100 miles and the codes come back so were do look next ?

and how do I check the fuel pressure . PLEASE HELP THANKS

It sounds like the only thing you haven't done is check the oil dipstick tube and replace the gas and oil cap. The oil dip stick tube sometimes can develop a crack and be tough to pinpoint.

Thanks to all for the info and advice. I am assuming the electrical connection referred to is not the connector for the center console or the PCM unit, but is probably around the steering column and under pax seat...

The connection Paul Speed was referring to is the harness under the passenger seat that needs to be disconnected each time a seat is removed.

Did you have the dealer reset the airbag light? Did they tell you what the fault code was?

Is this a part that goes into ashtray or do I have buy entire console? Can someone tell me where to find this part?

thanks

I have an extra one. If interested send me a PM.

+1 for "Simple Green"

Car specs: US spec 1998 Boxster, manual transmission, 67k miles

Symptoms over last 6 months: (1) engine running 10 - 15 degrees over "normal" (recently, even on cold days); (2) idle is "hunting" over a 100+/- rpm range (even after cleaning throttle body - which cleaning resulted in "average" rpm of 1000 on dash tach); (3) last Friday, for the first time, at start-up engine turned over but would not start - on 3rd try, it started. Once running, engine performs and sounds "normal".

Review of forum on some of these symptoms: faulty (or failing) crankshaft position sensor?

Any thoughts?

I also have a 98 - 5 speed. Have you been able to see if there are any fault code(s)?

Also put your key in and turn but don't start or turnover the engine to determine if all your gauge warning indicator lights are all working. Including the red lights by 250 mark of your temperature gauge and the 0 mark of your fuel gauge. Your top light (lower far right) and the two red temperature and fuel gauges automatically go out shortly after the key is turned on. I am curious why your temperature is running high?

It definately sounds like a sensor going bad. You probably saw this link. HERE it is just in case you haven't.

:welcome: to Renntech!

That's pretty interesting and congratulations on solving your problems and getting the car to pass the emission test. I guess I should get that Durametric gizmo. The 2000 S tip I bought a couple of months ago is running great but sooner or later I'll need something that will diagnose the codes.

BTW, what is the "change over valve"?

Here is a good system analysis and excellent write-up from Mike Focke's web page. Link HERE

During the winter of 2007-2008 I replaced my RMS and clutch and while I had my exhaust off I thought I would also replace my O2 Sensors. I made the mistake of replacing them with 4 Walker O2 sensors (with original fitment) and had nothing but problems with them. Since then on occasion I would get a CEL and after 4 to 5 drive cycles the CEL would eventually disappear. I would check with the Durametric and the codes where always P1117 and P1121 with P1115 and P1119 Pending. Several weeks ago, I received a notice to renew my license which also meant I would have to pass emissions testing.

I have owned my Boxster since July 2007 and it has 104K miles on it.

The CEL light was on so I checked the codes, I was surprised to find so many. They were P0410, P0411, P1125, P1123, P1117, P1121, P1115, P1119, P1130 and P1128. :eek:

A couple of weekends ago, I took some time and tried to systematically determine the problems. I ordered a change over valve from Sunset Porsche and a gas cap (I figured I could return the valve if it was not needed) and began to work. I replaced the gas cap. I noticed that the Secondary Air Pump was not working and checked the fuse. The 40 AMP fuse is located in the rear trunk underneath the relay bank on the driver's side. The fuse was burnt out and I replaced from Autozone for a couple of bucks.

I disconnected the battery, opened up the engine bay, removed the passenger side seat and front engine compartment and removed the change over valve by accessing it behind the alternator and under the passenger side fuel intake manifold. I have heard from some that accessing the change over valve from the top is the way to go by removing the fuel intake manifold. I chose not to as I also needed to replace my serpentine belt. A picture of my old valve is below. Based on what I found I determined it needed to be replaced.

I connected the battery, started it up and checked all the vacuum hoses by tightening them. I used starting fluid to systematically check for vacuum leaks at every connection. No leaks found. I closed everything up, took it for a ride then reset the codes. The CEL light returned. I commute 120 miles everyday and decided to drive a few drive cycles before continuing. The next time I ran the codes the following where found. P1123 and P1125 where the only ones that had gone. I assumed P1602 came from disconnecting the battery.

A couple days later I replaced the front O2 Sensors with my orginal ones that I removed several years earlier. Again I reset the codes and drove several drive cycles. This time I was down to only 4 codes P1128 and P1130, P1117 and P1121 as shown below:

I then replaced the rear O2 Sensors with my original rear ones and again erased the codes. After a couple of drive cycles I got the following two codes.

I then ordered a Air Mass Sensor from Autohaus for $182.57 shipped which seemed to be the best price out there.

Porsche Part Number for MY98 996.606.123.00 and Bosch Part Number 0-280-217-007

With 104K on the clock I figured it was a safe bet that the Air Mass Sensor was due to be replaced. The following weekend and with no codes I passed emissions!

Parts ordered from Sunset:

Cross Over Valve - 993.113.245.01 - $74.80

Fuel Cap - 996-201-241-03 - $9.61

YEAH! :jump:

Ignition Switch DIY is HERE

I replaced my entire unit (barrel and all) about 6 months ago. You might want to search ignition switch on both 986 and 996 Forums (should be the same) to determine similar symptoms to yours!

I was interested in the miles to determine if ignition switch is a consideration.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Ok, After further investigation. Neither front compartment light work or the rear unless the key is in the on position. I'm guessing here. But it has an after market Alpine radio in it. Wonder if the rocket scientist audio installer pulled the ignition to hook wires up to it and got something crossed? :wacko:

You could pop the radio out and check where the installer grabbed the power from. I doubt it came from the ignition switch. I've had fade and balance issues on my radio until I installed a new switch. How many miles on the car? Has the switch ever been changed. A faulty ignition switch is very common. You could also check the battery. Check the battery before starting (should be under 12 V) and again after starting (14.4+ volts).

I clay bar once a year.

Not advised to warm up a car at idle. The rule is to not exceed 4K RPM until the engine is at operating temperature. Speed not a determining factor, RPM's are.

Thanks -- where did that rule come from?

Yes, taken right from the manual:

1. Don't let vehicle idle to warm up

2. Be prepared to drive right away

3. Drive at moderate speeds for 5 minutes

4. Stay below 4200 RPM

Not advised to warm up a car at idle. The rule is to not exceed 4K RPM until the engine is at operating temperature. Speed not a determining factor, RPM's are.

Well, It works now, kind of. Everything is fine as long as the ignition is in the on position. Not much help by then...

Do you have any other unexplainable electrical issues. Sometimes a bad ignition switch causes other gremblins.

I was just preparing a DIY regarding some codes including P0410 and P0411. I had a blown 40 amp fuse for the Secondary Air Pump. I removed the change over valve and upon examination replaced it. The CEL light is now gone.

Do you have any other symptoms or codes?

I have been keeping an eye out for a deal on a 986 and been doing a bit of research as to problems with the car. I found lots of info about the engine problems, thin body sheet metal relating to the convertible top operation on the earlier cars and an assortment of electrical issues. I haven't come across anyone mentioning rust, is this not a problem with these cars? I live in NY State and I suspect if I get a car it will be from somewhere around here too, the land of the salted winter road. I can see that most 986's could be garaged for the winter but it would be my luck to get the one that was driven every winter of its life (I intend to drive it in the winter with minus size snows). Any input would be great, thanks.

It is always advisable to have a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) done by a reliable Indy or reliable dealer. The PPI will help determine any deficiencies including damage to the undercarriage. Rust usually isn't a problem. Check out Mike Focke's website Here. It is an excellent resource. Read both sections, Part 1 and Part 2.

I drive my Boxster over 120 miles a day as my daily driver, regardless of rain, snow and especially sunshine.

I have heard that cranking the engine over without starting to get oil in piston, valves and other key areas. I've also heard of pushing a car in reverse but only after garaged over the winter. Four years may require additional considerations.

Sorry the photo is not good. If you blow up the photo, I was referring to the rectangular cover that the yellow arrow points to.

Got it. What's the engine and what year is it?

Oil seems to be leaking from this rectangular part which is held by two bolts. What is this part and is there a seal behind it? TIA

If you are referring to this, it is the oil cooler. Water and oil both run through it (separately of course) and the radiator helps keep the oil cooler.

Here are a couple of links that might help.

The first link is from this Board on Renntech - Click Here

The second is from another Board - Click Here

You replaced interior sensor.. Where is this part? can you give me a part # or and location for it, Thanks. My problems are that my courtesy interior lights and some of dashboard lights do not turn on at night when the headlight switch is in the on position . Also my convertible top does not move unless I have my headlight in the on position. The e-brake is up and its not the brake light switch cause it has been checked... That is why I decided to use my duramteric.

The interior alarm sensor is part # 996.618.210.02- cost about $80.00. You can also try checking your alarm sensor. Make sure the top is up and latched (if top is down insert the red clip), put a window down, set your alarm, and then reach in your car or flash a hand around the interior to activate the infared sensors. If the sensors work your alarm horn will go off.

If you have checked your ignition switch you might want to check your main head light switch. Here is a couple links that might be useful.

Another Light Switch Electrical Problem

Switch Removal

Can anyone tell me what these mean.

This first list is from : alarm unit:

34

Interior sensor faulty

Status: present

Frequency counter: 1

On the alarm unit the only code that is currently present is 34. The frequency counters are the running total of each time they are present. The Durametric Tool cannot erase the counters(not sure about PST2 or PIWIS.)

Do you have any other problems. When my car was parked the car alarm would go off randomly. Upon checking the codes I had an alarm code 23. I determined that I had a faulty interior infared sensor. I replaced the sensor and no more inadvertent alarms. The frequency counter stopped counting at 4 and has been at 4 for 2 years. I also had an Alarm Code 21. For me it has never been present. I'm thinking it might have been an issue for the previous owner.

Here is a screen shot of my Durametric Screen Report just last week.