kbrandsma

I've been thinking about installing a Pioneer Double Din stereo in my 2000 C4. I have looked a lot of threads about the install and I don't think I'll have any trouble getting the unit installed. What I am worried about is cutting the divider bar between the HVAC control unit and the stock stereo. If I cut the divider out to fit the new stereo, will it be possible for me to ever reinstall the stock stereo and return the HVAC unit to their original locations? I'd like to be able to return the car to stock when I am ready to sell in a few years.

I upgraded to a Pioneer AVIC D-3 with a back-up camera and blue tooth adaptor about 3 years ago. I found a replacement center vent if I ever decide to go back to stock.

posted in the turbo section but figure other 997s might have seen this. Thanks

Hi, hoping someone knows what could be at fault here. In my 997 mainly In the mornings like today (7 degrees outside, damp) when the engine starts cold, after say a couple of minutes I get a info warning on the centre display of an indicator failure and the coolant temp sign, and the red bar on the coolant temp dial flashes. At this stage the tempersture dial is still at 0, it does this for a minute and goes off and then repeats (warning and flashing light). Then it goes off, no warning In the Info menu and no flashing, it's at this point the bar starts to rise. From then on all is ok and it rises to the middle and behaves as normal.

Anyone had this before, know what it could be?

Thanks

Hi KashB and Welcome to Renntech You only need to post your question once. Double posting is not allowed. See guidelines HERE!

Hi, hoping someone knows what could be at fault here. In my 997 mainly In the mornings like today (7 degrees outside, damp) when the engine starts cold, after say a couple of minutes I get a info warning on the centre display of an indicator failure and the coolant temp sign, and the red bar on the coolant temp dial flashes. At this stage the tempersture dial is still at 0, it does this for a minute and goes off and then repeats (warning and flashing light). Then it goes off, no warning In the Info menu and no flashing, it's at this point the bar starts to rise. From then on all is ok and it rises to the middle and behaves as normal.

Anyone had this before, know what it could be?

Thanks

Check your coolant level.

Ok thanks. I will have to take a better look tomorrow once the sun comes up. I know it looked like a lot of coolant and I am not sure exactly how much leaked while driving. The tank is empty. I have done some research and saw some pictures of a blown water pump and it appears the leak on those pictures is approximately where mine was leaking (not sure if it was traveling from another location though).

I do remember a slight noise while driving that was almost like a belt or pulley, but not quite. It also didn't sound like a bearing in the pump so not sure. Are there any tell tale signs/noises if it is the pump?

Also, be sure to check the radiators at the front. A common problem is leaves and debris entering the car at the front and if you don't clean them out they can rot and corrode the front of the radiators and eventually the core. This will cause the car to dump the coolant. It's an age old problem on the 996's and it happened to me. I am in the process of getting mesh grill installed to prevent this from occurring again.

HTH.

I would be interested in what you found. Something similar happened to me and I replaced the cap and bleeder valve in MY98 986. Keep us posted.

On my '00 996 C2 I have been getting repeated P1130 and P1133 codes. Also the RKAT on the same bank (2) is close -4 (just within range), while RKAT on the other bank (1) is close to 0. Already changed the MAF (tested with Durametric and voltage changes with RPM's) and searched for vacuum leaks with propane. Also, disconnecting a vacuum hose after a good hour after turning the engine off, gives a good swoosh, indicating that the system is holding the vacuum OK.

I am at a loss....

Joost

I've not used propane. I have used starting fluid.

Hello all..

I've been searching on replacing my AOS and I'm a bit confused on what parts are mandatory in replacing. :unsure: I've check out the Pelican parts website and it seems all parts are sold separately. Can anyone chime in and steer me in the right direction?? :help: I have a 02 S. Any help is appreciated!

You will need the Air Oil Separator (AOS) or sometimes referred as Crankcase ventalation. It is #8 in the photo below. The AOS comes with the bellows tube and is not visible in the drawing. You also will need the "J" tube which connects the AOS to the throttle body or TB. It is #5 below.

Here is a shot of the bellows tube that comes with the AOS. The bellows is the short accordian like tube and attaches the AOS to an opening in the crank case.

Dave:

There is an interesting article in the June 2010 issue of Excellence Magazine entitled: "Fob 4 Less: Fixing a modern Porsche key for less than $3 bucks". The article describes rescuing a dysfunctional key by replacing a couple of small, inexpensive momentary switches. Looks relatively easy to do and since the electronic functions of your key are already messed up you don't have much to lose. I have one non-functional fob, but since the other is working I haven't tried this idea yet. I did call the dealer about a replacment. They offered to solve the problem for $375. If you go the diy route please let folks know how it works out.

Good luck.

Dave

Hi Dave,

Would it be possible to borrow your copy of Excellence. I'm in Everett and would be more than willing to pay postage bothways or catch up with you sometime. I go to Bellevue, once a week or so..

Regards, KBrandsma

I have updated the TSB and added a second PDF file with the templates.

You can download them now.

You have a PM

I ordered a MAF and it will be here Monday. As far as the secondary air pump goes, there doesn't seem to be any issues with it. Looks like it might have solved the problem for por986, so we will see. After I install the new MAF, do I need to disconnect the battery to discharge the DME so it will relearn the parameters upon start up again?

Again, thanks to all

Jim

Yes, disconnect the negative connection of the battery, install the MAF and then re-connect battery. The DME will reset/relearn with the new MAF.

I think I have for the air pump but can't remember for certain. I'll try it tomorrow and report back.

Great, thanks! Looking forward to hearing from you.

With a 1128 and 1130 code do you have any issues with your Secondary Air Pump?

Interesting, I have never seen the two related in researching. I recently commented on the following thread, so you have me intrigued. Are these related?

http://www.renntech....ine-with-video/

I have the same two codes and my Secondary Air Pump is not operating. I checked the 40 AMP fuse in rear trunk and the fuse was blown. I won't get a chance to explore further until this weekend.

Depending on the version of the Durametric Software program, it has a "Drive Link" or "Activations" sub-menu. I'm trying to activate my secondary air pump. I noticed it's on their website screen shots but not available in the actual program. Has anyone ever used this function?

With a 1128 and 1130 code do you have any issues with your Secondary Air Pump?

Remove the connection at the AMP and connect rear speakers to a nine volt battery. If wiring is good you should hear a crackling sound in the rear speakers. Check your fade button on the head unit. Have you had ignition problems? Sometimes a failing ignition switch does quirky things to the radio controls (balance/fade) Good luck!

I'm wondering it is possible to built a "SELECTOR SWITCH" where you can choose CD changer or ipod.

Has anybody done this?

Don't forget a new and louder horn. The Italian Horns are a good option.

Realizing that it could be troublesome & create air in the line (s) problems ,I decided to take my 2002 911/996 C2 into the dealer for a coolant change, where they use the "special" vacuum machine etc. (Orlando Porsche $258.00 & Tax "ouch" ,however Brumos Porsche in Jacksonville wanted over $400 !!! )

Anyhow , when I asked the service manager, what type of water they would be mixing the genuine Porsche coolant (he also said it's the same exact type used in VW & Audi ,and it's red, is that correct also ? )

He said "Just plain tap water" . Now from what I have read all over the internet ,you DO NOT use regular tap water, your suppose to use distilled,or purified. One Porsche site said use "deonized" water "only" and NOT distilled or purified ??? What's up with all this confusion ? I asked him if I could bring in my own bottled distilled water for the mechanic to use and he said ok,but it makes no difference. Anyone know the story on this coolant /water type dilemma , I'm taking the 911 in this Friday for the coolant flush,please let me know, I'm totally confused now Is it regular, deonized, purified , or distilled ? And is that correct about VW and Audi using the same stuff ? Cheers Dave

I recently added a third radiator, 150 dgree thermostat and a new waterpump to my 98 Boxster. I replaced the old coolant with original Porsche Antifreeze from Sunset. It was reddish pink when mixed. The old fluid was yellow. Both are ok.

The part number is:

000-043-301-05

The cost was $21.07/gallon at Sunset Poesche

a 50/50 mixture with distilled water provides protection to -34F or -37C

Here is a link to Mike Fock's Web page on antifreeze replacement where he talks about other alternatives than Porsche Antifreeze. Mike Fock's Webpage

Regardless of your replacement coolant, getting all the old fluid out is difficult as you will have old antifreeze in radiators and hoses and this is sometmes difficult to get all the old fluid out. I purchased a UView Airlift Tool (Whiz-bang vacuum device) to add my replacement coolant as JFP suggests. I've used it once. PM if you would like to borrow it.

Also, reading Loren's DIY article on adding a third radiatior is useful , as he talks about how to remove air from the system by leaving the bleed valve open. Here is the link to Loren's DIY. 3rd Radiator DIY

Happy New Year and good luck!

Interested Bump!

Sorry...Been offline a couple days...I will look it up and post soon.

DC

OK Guys, Sorry I was busy last week. Here is a link to one of the connections mentioned. Once on this site, you can easily poke around for different connectors that may fit your application. Also an

opportunity for research on the application of these connectors on their site. Prices seemed reasonable to me, and I had one on a previous car and worked perfectly.

Click Here

Good luck!

DC

Perfect! Thank you!

Ditto!

I would start with the dash and door speakers with stock OEM rears. You'll see (and hear) a remarkable difference. You can always upgrade from there.

I have a 98 Boxster and I added clear front lights. I also de-abmered the tail and side markers. The look is an improvement.

I later added the center radiator, a 996 front bumper and litronic front headlights!

.

I have a 98 Boxster and I added clear front lights. I also de-abmered the tail and side markers. The look is an improvement.

With a 98 Boxster I would also check your radiator cap part number. If the part number ends in 01, I would replace it. They are now up to 04.

If you want to keep the CDR210 look. I would upgrade to a CDR220 which allows an iPod interface. I would also recommend the dash and door speaker upgrade as the paper cone stock speakers are not very good.