kbrandsma

I'm not sure if I have an OEM amp. I'm not good with electronics. If I do have the amp where would they be so I can check?

Both the AMP and the Stock CD Changer are in the front trunk behind and above the spare tire.

My 2002 986 2.7 5sp, 68k miles developed a serious problem recently. Here's the details:

Two days ago, I noticed a bit of white smoke coming from the tailpipe as I was on the freeway. The temp was at 180, no performance issue, oil OK, coolant OK. Could not find anything wrong. After I stopped to check it out, the car did not smoke again (on that trip).

Yesterday morning, while checking the car for problems, I started the car, let it warm up, and took it up to 4k rpm... all with no trace of smoke. Oil was still ok, as was the coolant level.

In the afternoon, I drove the car about 4 miles... still no sign of smoke. Again, temp ok, no performance issues. etc..

On the way home though... it was another story.

Upon the return trip, I noticed a bit of smoke coming out of the tailpipe. It seemed to occur after I let off the gas. If I accelerated, the volume of smoke did not increase. This lasted for about 1 mile in 30-40mph traffic.

On the 2nd mile, the car did a full smoke screen (Fit for any proper spy movie) and then shut off. Luckily I was able to pull over and have the car towed home.

At this point, the oil gauge was 2 bars lower than before.

The OBD II scanner reported no codes and the car will not turn over. :-(

I'm in the process of reading every reference to white smoke on various websites, but would appreciate hearing from this crowd.

Any thoughts on what could have happened?

Kevin

2002 986 2.7 5sp, 68k miles.

Sounds like the AOS has gone bad. Run a search on AOS (Air Oil Separator) using the search feature on this Board.

Here is a link to Mike Focke's Web Page PRESS HERE

I stand corrected. It is the unused harness for the OEM Cell Phone (not PCM) as JFP in PA suggests. Great Pictures JFP!

Here is a photo shot of my current setup with the power cord running to the lighter socket.

You can see it is a very short distance to the instrument cluster behind the 4 way. I ordered the needed wiring harness from Escort. Here is a LINK to the harness.

Can you use the doom light for power to a windshield mount escort passport 9500 ix. If so how do you get at the power wire in the dome light?

I have the same unit and thought about a more permanent installation as well. I'm not sure the dome light is the best place to get power from however (fuse capacity). I was thinking of taking power out of the center console and running up and out of the back of the gauge cluster directly behind the 4-way flasher. There would only be a short wire exposed and it would be on the same side that the 9500ix requires. In the console at the bottom there is switched and unswitched power supplies from a unused PCM wiring harness or you can also run power directly from a spare slot in the fuse panel.

To remove the gauge cluster you only need to loosen 2 easy to get at torx screws. I had the gauge off a couple of times. Once to install the OBC 4 way stalk and the other to place a microphone in the OEM microphone slot. The torx screws are loacted behind the 4-way flasher. Push 4-way to have it extend out and pull. The other is behind the microphone slot on the left hand side. Need a plastic uphostery tool to pry the round mesh cover out.

I'm experiencing an annoying creaking sound from the steering wheel column on my '07 997 GT3.

Bought it 2nd hand, Porsche Approved in Germany at 35.000 kms. Between April and now it's been in the dealership for repair twice now - first they replaced the front stabiliser silent blocks, sound remained (came back after a while), then a second time, they replaced some wear parts of the front axle as well as the anti-vibration pads from the front brakes ... again, after a few miles, sound came back like before. The sound comes while driving but also at standstill when turning the steering- wheel.

Car runs perfectly well but that noise is just not OK in such a car. I don't want to bring it endlessly into the dealership either.

Any useful hint would be welcome.:notworthy:

Is the creaking sound inside the cabin underneath the airbag on the steering wheel?

I replaced my horns with a set from Griot's Garage. LINK HERE. I followed a thread on horns not to long ago, that included a post from Loren that was very helpful. Thread Here.

Since the installation I have had several instances where the extra loud horn came in extremely handy.

Good luck and good choice!

Have you thought about replacing the IMS bearing while you are in there? Or at least checking the bearing?

+1 on the IMS Bearing

I recently check the codes on my 98 986. An alarm fault code of 34 came up. interior sensor faulty anyone know which sensor that is or were a listing on fault codes might be listed so I could research it myself? Thx in advance!

Is the code active? Some alarm codes just have a counter that you can't reset. Reset the code with a Durametric and see if it comes back and the count frequency increases by 1.

If your cap ends in 01, It should be replaced. I replaced mine last summer and I believe they end in 04 now.

Friends,

So far so good. . .cut bolts off the flanges connecting the exhaust system to the header, rest of everything came right out. Next stop: removing bolts connecting transmission to engine. I've got a piece of cardboard diagrammed to make sure I get the right bolts in the right place. . .gotta go get a 10 mm triple square head.

As is the curse of the budding mechanic, I spend more time driving to the hardware store than fixing my car!

Also, I've seen various solutions for rear main seal replacement "special tools." Anybody got ideas that are easier than constructing the "Lowe's conduit pipe" version, (which is a great idea, but I don't have a router or the other woodworking tools to do it)?

masterbm

I have one. I had it made. I also have a short 10mm triple square you can use. The Porsche Tool however, determines the tolerance in the opening to help see if a new RMS will keep. My RMS wasn't leaking bad so I figured it wasn't to far out of center (eccentric) and it wasn't going to be an issue for me. Worked for me.

Let me know.

SOme leave the radio wire shorted out which will cause the same thing as leaving the armrest compartment open.

Here is a link with some info that should help. PRESS HERE

Also:

1. Make sure battery is disconnected and keys out of the ignition

2. Invest in a long T30 screw driver for removing air bag screws

3. The airbag screws where really tight and I used a pair of vice grips to gain additional leverage

4. After removing airbag turn steering wheel and front tires dead center before removing the steering wheel for reference on re-install

Very straight forward and an easy DIY Project.

Shoudn't be a problem.

Leave your coolant breather locking clip open, Section 19 of Bentley Service Manual.

OK sorry. I hope now you can understand what I mean. Sorry for my bad english. I need the distance between this two red arrow

It is approximately 86 3/8 inches or 2193.9249999999997 mm

Gaps are 6mm on the clam shell I sent you a PM with more details.

Hi Bruno,

Not sure exactly what you want. On the door the gap dimensions are:

front side (under mirror) - 5.0 mm

bottom - 4.4 mm

back side (next to vent) - 4.0 mm

What do you mean by small lid? Rear trunk?

Very nice indeed!

which ebay store did you get those pedals from?

It's been a year or more and don't remember.

There are two (2) vacuum lines that run to the rubber sleeve closets to the passenger cabin. (Tube not connected to the throttle body.) The vacuum line one on the driver's side runs from the pressure regulator (on fuel ring pipe) near air box to the sleeve. Vacuum pipe should lay loose and be pressure free.

On the passenger side there is also a vacuum hose that runs from the vacuum reservoir (16) and ends in a one way check valve (22). The check valve slides into the passenger side rubber sleeve. The photo belows shows the vacuum line. It should also be installed loose and tension free.

+1 for water pump. Remove belt and run.

If you are changing the spark plugs at 116K you might as well go to DIY Menu/Maintenance Schedule at the Top of the page and do the entire 120K major tune-up. Lots of things from oil, filters, serpentine belt, etc. At 90 K I replaced my coolant, some hoses, water pump and the thermostat. I recently replace my front motor mount two weeks ago. I wished I would have done that sooner, what a difference!

Good Thread Here on DIY Rim Repair

I have searched the forum and can't find an answer to my dilemma. My '02 S is proudly sporting a new GAHH top with a glass window.

My problem is that I had a rear speaker enclosure. My installer has informed me that the glass top prevents the installation of the speaker unit.

Any solutions or do i go without rear speakers.? Thanks for the help.

Nels

I am not sure that is entirely true. Which rear speaker unit are you referring to? Bose or standard 2 speaker kit? Do you have the rear compartment? or are you looking to replace the soft leather sport case?