kbrandsma

Wonder what you guys think of my new "porsche" decal :) , what i want to do next is do my brake and clutch and gas paddel to change to aluminium, how difficult is this to swap (is there a diy?) and what brand (if any) or dealer is the best for this?

I recently added the aluminum racing pedals. I purchased them on eBay. The installation took about 30 minutes to install. The accelerator and rest pedal were the easiest. The brake pedal and clutch pedal covers were a little more difficult. Some people exchange the screws and nuts that came with the kit with other ones that blend better with the pedals. I didn't I used the screws and hardware that came with the pedals. The existing brake is aluminum and clutch pedal is a plastic like material. I removed the OEM rubber pedal covers on the brake and clutch. I then covered the pedals with blue masking tape, aligned the new pedals and marked the drill locations with a sharp pencil. When you get ready to do the clutch and brake you can determine the pedal location and where the drill bit and ultimately the bolts will pass thru the pedals and miss the support ribs. On a scale of 1 to 10 it is about a 2 to 3 in difficulty. Below is a picture of the finished installation. Recommend!!!

Thanks, sounds like it is more than an emission's check which is done in Washington State, USA

I just completed my 11th regular maintenance since driving my new at the time 2003 Boxster of the lot in late December 2002...right off the truck from the port as it arrived at my dealer. This vehicle has remained my daily driver and while I travel often for business and my car sits at the airport, it still gets its fair share of miles. I was coming down the Ortega from Orange County when I tried to take the photo of the speedo hitting 165,000 miles...not a great pic with the BB... The exterior looks pretty **** good to. No door dings, but the front has certainly has its fair share of rock chips from sand and gravel trucks on the freeway here in SoCal.

Each of my regular maintenance consist of the cabin filter, air filter and oil filter. I've ran Amsoil 5W-40 since the first oil change. The only mechanical I've had was a failed AOS at 146K. Other than that, the plugs and drive belt have been replaced twice. They're due again at 185K. Clutch is original...and no, I don't nurse my car. I really drive the hell out of it. The mean for my shifting range is ~5K. I know Porsche states the coolant is lifelong...well, mine was installed at Germany. I've topped it off with distilled water and coolant maybe three times over the years.

Each year I tell myself I'm going to buy a new sports car...and then I look at my car and it still looks fantastic and performs really well. I look forward to providing an update at 180K.

All good stuff.

Bill

Great story, thanks for sharing!

What is "APK"?

Thank you so much guys. Is the coolant cap easily accessible for future replacement purposes? I ll be adding a bit of coolant soon. Right now its just above the min. I did check the trunk carpet and all looks okay. That was my first thought too.

Gulfstorm

Yes, the coolant cap is easy to find and is located next to the oil fill cap. Actually you have to look under the trunk carpet if you suspect a leak in the water reservoir.

Try the Pioneer AVIC-X920BT, it is now on sale at Crutchfields, reg $1299, $300 off plus $100 mail-in rebate for a $899 total.

Also, free shipping plus a $150 speaker upgrade and a $50 for an iPod cable. Sounds like a good deal!

Link to Crutchfields

Put an HID kit in it, much better and cheap to do.

All high output normal bulbs produce more heat, heat will soften the plastic outer of the headlight unless you remember to switch headlights off when stationary in traffic, side lights are fine in this sittuation - You need the cooling air that occurs when driving to dissipate the heat build up - but if you sit in stationary or very slow traffic heat will build up

Thanks.

I'll definitely look into that but does anyone have a suggestion on a low cost fix for this? ie is the inner lens replaceable? Or can it be removed and polished?

Tom

Unfortuantely they are built as a unit and are not fixable.

Sure add a little more coolant. There is a flashing red light in the temp gauge that flashes when coolant level is to low. If this light is not flashing your level is probably fine. Just gradually add a little more at a time. Also as RFM mentions above, check the cap part number. If it ends in 01 you will need to replace it. Caps ending in 01 will eventually fail. I replaced mine last summer and the new cap ended in part number 04, so the cap has been updated 3 times.

I have a 98 so I don't have MOST or the DSP option. Not sure if this post will be useful or not but it might help with other installs like GPS antenna, blue tooth microphone, options for power, etc.

Most Pioneer Installation

Seems odd that the two would be tied together. Check fuses and/or revert back to stock third light to determine if it's the problem.

You are welcome!

Sorry but what are red calipers ? :oops:

What you call the red brakes.

Thanks!

Connection for the rear speaker kit is very straight forward. Green/Black (rear right positive) wire goes into position number 1 on the brown plug and it's negative into position 2. Red/Black (rear left positive) wires goes into position 7 and it's negative goes into position 8. Also, when you fade to the back you won't get the full compliment of sounds, basically voices from the rear speakers, bass from the door speakers and most music from the front speakers.

Sweet. . . .

I forget where I heard of it, but if you place a small polyester pillow between the two rear speakers it directs the sound forward instead of thru the hollow center storage area.

Also, I'm interested in hearing more about your red calipers.

I upgraded from a CDR-210 to a CDR-220 for connectivity to an iPod. Then eventually upgraded to a Pioneer AVIC D-3 with bluetooth for cell phone and a back-up Camera.

Also, you definately should consider upgrading dash and door speakers if they haven't been already.

Take it to a reputable shop and get a pre purchase inspection (PPI) from someone who knows about Boxsters. It looks pretty beat up.

Hi Everyone

Just looking to get some input from you Porsche lovers that have owned one or more in the past.

Car I am considering is as follows:

1997 Porsche Boxster

58k miles

AC/heat works great .... for now!

Does NOT overheat

been in one minor accident in the past. didnt see any frame damage

Issues I am aware of after the inspection I did today:

1.) Water found its way behind the driver seat not allowing me to start it after turnied it off and looked at it today. I used a heat gun and dried the computer box area out for a little while and was able to started again and 3 times after .... so far so good I hope??

2.) The engine has a few Oil leaks on it. The oil pan and valve cover is leaking for sure ...... I think there may be a leak where the tranny meets up to the motor but not 100% sure. It leaks enough for a little amount of oil to drip. Doesnt look like it would be too hard to replace those gaskets but I may be wrong??

3.) The convert top has some missing and broken support brackets. I have never seen one complete so I am not sure what is missing exactly but I am still able to get the top up and down and drive it either way so.....

4.)It will need 2 new tires and new brake pads.

5.) The clutch seemed to work normal but I dont have another one to compare so ...... maybe assume that will need replacing sooner than later.

6.) the motor doenst make any unusual noises but then again it is stuck deep in there pretty good.

Questions:

1.) How much does a New or used under the driver seat computer cost? Can they be sent out to be rebuilt? Or once you dry them out and they work again..... are they good to go?

2.) Are oil leaks common or is this very unusual and maybe this particular Porsche was made on a friday? Everything seems pretty accessible from the bottom of the motor....are they pretty easy to work on?

3.) based on the pics below is the broken top parts going to cost major $$ to fix? This was a very common issue from what I have read, anyone out there provide alternatives?? Or what do/did most do when this happened to them?

I really really like driving the car and am able to fix most of the issues myself or at my buddies shop.... i think.

I got the guy down too $4400 for it due too all the issues ...... I think i can get him down too $4000 considering it may need a new computer due to the water entry but not sure

Just wondering what your thoughts may be regarding my possible purchase and being a first time Porsche owner Newb.

Thank you for reading and any help if much appreciated??????

CDR 220

SN Y5039128

Thanks in advance

Try 5921

or

5919

Nope but 5923 worked, Thanks!

CDR 220

SN Y5039128

Thanks in advance

2001 - Boxster S

Hello All,

Looking for some guidance on an issue (more of a nuisance at this stage).

When I turn the steering I hear a creaking sound from the steering wheel column - typically at very low speed since there's less competing sounds. Seems like there's something crying out for lubrication but clearly could be more serious. Otherwise the steering is fine and I am having no adverse effects.

I would like to understand what I could do to understand the root cause/fix before commiting to "open wallet surgery" at the nearest garage.

Many thanks,

Shuaib

Has the steering wheel been removed? Sometimes the ring that holds the three or four stalks (wipers, cruise, and turn signals and/or on-bord computer if you have a fourth stalk) is not been seated or re-installed properly. The sound is more like a grinding sound rather than a creaking sound however.

Hi Peter,

Upgrading to a six channel amp will only power your rear speakers. You will need a harness to get from the back of the radio to the AMP. If you need PIN assignments I can help! I have an extra 4x AMP if you want to give it a try. Where are you located? The harness to the amp is pretty straight forward to remove. Have you had any troubles with other electrical issues. The reason I ask is sometimes a faulty ignition switch can be the culprit.

Check Andy_M write-up for sound upgrade. Link is HERE

Regards

Changing the oil is a very simple DIY. I agree with Logray. Loosen the drain plug and gather some oil and make a determination from there

Regards

Thanks. I am gathering information just in case. I am not certain that the cam cover is leaking but the last time it was the porsche dealer, they say to service it along w/ the RMS.

I checked my local auto parts store for spark plugs and they only have the NGK BKR6EK. On their website, it says to gap it to 0.032". Does it need to be gap? I have never use these type of spark plugs w/ two ground tips.

The spark plugs come pre-gapped, you should try to re-gap them. Show a picture of your leak purhaps it will help to determine source.

Most problems with fade and balance usually stem from a faulty ignition switch. Are you experiencing other unexplainable electrical problems?

Does the faceplate just need to be replaced?

Yep.

The display on my CDR-210 is faint on one side. I can still read it but at night its looks brighter on one side than the other.

I assume it's a burnt out bulb in the faceplate but haven't investigated further. Yours maybe different if they all went out at the same time.

You can try removing the faceplate and cleaning the connections with a pencil eraser and see if that helps.

Aron

Anyway to replace the bulbs that you know of?