gareth

Hey, thanks for the advice . . Somebody told me it would be the bearings, but I am not sure it would make that rotating croaking sound? Again, the sound kind of echoes up through the steering wheel / column, in the area beneath the column I think . .

Thanks again, I will take your advice . .

Hello,

Hope somebody out there can help or at least relate . .

RE - 99' 996 C4 tiptronic . .

Car was pulling to the right badly, so after troubleshooting a multitude of things, we found that the passenger side front shock was bent, therefore we changed the front shocks and springs on both sides (front only) - Result, the car no longer pulled to the right, we guessed right!.

However, after doing this, my friend and I noticed a frog type gurgling noise appear on the front end, speed around 35 - 50 . . It really does sound like a gurgling frog / Coffee Perculator, a revolving kind of perculator noise, definitly a revolving noise, and it can be heard inside the car in the front wheel / floor area, seems to be at the bottom of the steering column maybe. . . Needless to say, it's driving me nuts.

I so welcome anybody's thoughts . . & Thank you indeedl . .

G.

Hopefully someone can relate & help me with this . .

Have a 99 996 C4, don't drive it as often as I would like, it's been a month since driving . .

Today I tried to start her up, and just got the clicking sound, grabbed some cables, and she started up right away. I then took her out for an hour or so, parked, started the engine, drove a little more, then tried the engine again, all was fine. I then parked in the garage, and noticed that the cluster lights will NOT turn off, not even after 20 minutes+ which is obviously draining the battery, and perhaps the culprit for the car not starting? The speed is on, the milage, and the time, just those three items. I disconnected then re-connected the battery to re-set everything, and the cluster lights went out. I then started her up again, and the same happened, cluster lights will not turn off . . Any ideas? I guess the first idea is to probably get a new battery, or at least test it right?

Any advice would be appreciated - Thanks, Gareth

Thanks indeed Loren! Any DIY on your site? Also, forgot to mention, it's a 99 996 with 69K on the clock.

Hello All,

Recently I had P1128 / p1130 / p0455 - Researched it thoroughly, couldn't fix it myself / couldn't find an air leak after smoke test with local mechanic, etc - Decided to go to the local Porche garage where they hit me for $1000 - Fix included a new MAF, and they lifted up my fuel neck (as it had sunk etc) oh, & added a new gas cap ! ! ! However, this got rid of the codes for two days, until today, I drive solid for an hour, and suddenly get a code P1115 . . . . Renntech explains what it is (Thanks Loren), though does anyone believe I still have an air leak somewhere triggering this code, would this code be triggered by an air leak? Secondly, can someone show me where bank one is located via diagram, and a DIY perhaps? Do I need 2 sensors, or just the one, my local mechanic says I need two O2 sensors? Thanks Indeed everyone, I mean that.

Geoff. thanks for responding - The noise comes at any given speed, in any gear, perhaps more so in 4th to 5th . . . It's a deep humming noise, and often tends to be around the rear / drivers side . . . Is there anything I can do to the drive train to possibly alleviate the noise? That's if it is related to the drive train . .

Does the noise change with the car's speed or engine speed?

Wheel bearing?

I'll have my guy check that out and let you know - Thanks for the advice Jon.

I've posted this in the past, though need some more opinions / advice . . .

I have a 99' 996 AWD Tipronic . . . At any given speed I can hear a gradual howling / low pitched whining noise coming from the rear of the car. Here are the things I have done / inspected in my ongoing process of elimination -

1. Transmission & engine dropped and re-conditioned

2. Changed tires with correct size / pressure

3. Had bearings checked

My mechanic who works on german cars informs me that it is due to the drive train and the fact that most AWD cars have some wierd sounds? I somehow can't accept that as a final diagnosis . . Another mechanic told me to replace the transfer case, whatever that is?

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Actually, my C4S (manual) picked up a whining noise this summer. The mechanics at my dealer quickly identified it as two of the idler pulleys on the engine. Went away immediately and a pretty simple fix. Just a thought . . .

I've posted this in the past, though need some more opinions / advice . . .

I have a 99' 996 AWD Tipronic . . . At any given speed I can hear a gradual howling / low pitched whining noise coming from the rear of the car. Here are the things I have done / inspected in my ongoing process of elimination -

1. Transmission & engine dropped and re-conditioned

2. Changed tires with correct size / pressure

3. Had bearings checked

My mechanic who works on german cars informs me that it is due to the drive train and the fact that most AWD cars have some wierd sounds? I somehow can't accept that as a final diagnosis . . Another mechanic told me to replace the transfer case, whatever that is?

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks indeed fellas,

I'll take your valid advice.

Thanks to all for their input.

Gareth

Just replace the line, list is like $96, so from Sunset it would be between $50-75.

Todd

Do you think I can cut the pipe and replace the cruched area with another pipe? Rather than buy the whole return line so to speak? What type of piping should I use, metal or fuel line type?

Thanks

Gareth

On 996 Carrera's...

A/C runs down the right side (passenger side on LHD).

Brake lines run down the left side. As does the clutch line.

Fuel and engine cooling run down the center tunnel.

Nice one fellas,

Correct! I found out that the hose in question is the P/S return line, and though it's somewhat squashed, if there's NO leak or crack, it should be fine . . . Hard to beleive, but that's what a local Porsche dealership advised . . . What do you think? What are the possible problems I might encounter? Am I looking for trouble not replacing this line?

Thanks INDEED for all the help!

G

The bottom black line in your picture is the vacuum line from the motor to the brake booster. The other two black lines above it are the PS pressure and return lines.

The brake lines are there as well but they are the smaller diameter lines, at the bottom of the picture that are not painted black.

Todd

CJ,

Yes, it's on the driver side close to the edge of the car, correct, the first two thin lines are A/C lines, then there are three more larger ones, the middle being squashed in my case. I turned on the A/C, and felt the pipe, it didn't turn cold . . . It didn't get warm either really . . . So do you think it's the Power steering pressure line? We need some extra opinions on this perhaps . . Where's Loren when you need him . . .

Thanks fellas.

G

Under the drivers side or passenger side?

Passenger side has Water lines

Drivers side has AC lines and P/S lines and i think Fuel lines since its a C4 and a C2 would have fuel lines in the driveshaft tunnel.

Turn the car on and turn the AC on... If the line gets slightly cool its fuel line, if it gets really cold its AC, if no temp change or it gets warm its P/S

Hi there,

I have a squashed line underneath my 99' 996 C4 . . . Just can't for the life of me figure out what this line is for . . . One guy told me Fuel, the next told me power steering pressure line Part#99634745132 . . . I'm enclosing a picture for you pro's to see . . . FYI - It's located on the DRIVERS side, close to the outer edge of the car next to what I believe are 2 A/C lines . . .

Any help would be super.

Thanks

G

Nothing special - you do have an extra radiator, but it will bleed with the rest of the system.

Loren, quick question regarding 'The bleed valve' - Should it raise itself when the car has been running? I just replaced my expansion tank following your bleed method, and after a few drives with the metal part of the valve pointing upwards, I put it back down again and all seems fine - I then noticed after driving, that the black part of the bleeder valve was extended up a little (not the metal part) Is this normal? Is it allowing air out by itself? I then carefully unscrewed the lid, let some air out, and watched the black part sink back down again - Normal?

Thanks indeed

Gareth

I dont no what the charge is in the US, it takes approx. 1 hour to check/tip up the level and a test drive done by a mechanic. After the run they can tell you the result of there findings, in cases like this it is to difficult to give a solution without seeing and driving the car.

Thanks RFM, I shall take it to the dealer this week, and let you know the outcome - Thanks again for the advice.

There is one inspection/filling hole in the aluminium housing of the Z.F. differential, you can open it with an alan key, you have to fill till the oil comes out this is the filling level.

If it is too difficult go to the dealer or independent.

Hey RFM,

Thanks for staying with me on this, I sincerely appreciate it . . . What do you think the dealer will charge $$ / tell me? What is worst case scenario here? Thank YOU

The smell of transmission oil in combination with this kind of noise makes me nervous, if i was you i would take a look A.S.A.P.

How do I take a look? Do you suggest going to a dealer? Or something I check myself? Of course, it makes me nervous also, but what are various fix scenarios, or am I in BIG trouble either way? What do you think the dealer would suggest to troubleshoot? Would they haveto drop the trans & engine?

Thanks again for the follow up!

Check the differential oil level on the tiptronic, can be a small leak on the seal of the transmission axle left or right. I hope it's not to late.

I appreciate your response - Another guy mentioned that to me also . . . When you say, "I hope it's not too late . . " You mean? Go easy on me . . . Thanks in advance for your advice.

Hello, hope someone can help out a little . .

I have a 99' 996 C4 tiptronic , and it seems to have a gradual loud humming / howling noise upon applying the accelerator, especially in 4th and 5th gear (any speed really), if I step off the gas it completely goes away . . . The noise is coming from the driverside, at the back of the car, around the wheel / transmission / drivetrain area . . I don't think it's anything to do with the wheel, I beleive it to be related to the trans or drivetrain . . . Any ideas? I feel it's becoming worse, and something bad is going to happen . . . Also, when I get out of the car, I smell transmission oil strongly, though there are no leaks whatsoever.

Thank you all indeed.

Gareth