masq

Hey everyone,

For the past few months, my convertible top on my MY02 has been inoperable because the side flap that folds up and down when the top is doing its thing has been stuck in the open position. The parts catalog officially calls the part "Folding top flap" OEM-99655526303A07.

While I was trying to force the part down so that I could get my top down all the way, I seem to have broken a piece of plastic underneath that attaches to a metallic rod holding a long spring. Well without further arguments of how unthoughtful that was on my part, I'm trying to get an idea of how to replace this thing.

Does anyone have a clue?

I recently did my second brake job in years and realized that you could probably get away with buying no more than 2 brake wear sensors (as long as you didn't drive more than maybe 500 miles after the brake wear light first came on. Both times I did the job, I only had to replace one that triggered the wear light.

I'm also sure that you don't have to replace the vibration dampers. Same with the repair kits. Not buying these items will save you about $250 for the pad replacement, so you may want to just take a peek in to the calipers to see if you really have to buy these items... but you probably want to get them replaced if you drive your car *extra* aggressively.

In all, I could have gotten away with just replacing the pads for the front and rear Mintex pads for about $70 dollars for my daily driver that doesn't get many chances to get driven hard.

I wanted to close out the issue by posting the resolution I found.

Without having the tech tear apart the engine again, I decided to try a bottle of Techron with a fresh tank of gas. For $13 bucks, I finally resolved the misfiring issue that had been plaguing me for months!

It's been a month, and no misfires.

Great explanation. Thanks.

Is this a problem on the 996's?

O2 sensor, pre cat if I remember right. It all three cylinders come on at once it is usually an O2 sensor.

Isn't there a dedicated P code for bad O2 sensor? I've been having CEL issues for the past 3 months which led to new plugs, packs, and replacement of lifters. During the entire time, we never saw a code for O2 sensors.

So my question is if you think replacing a $150 dollar part would be a wise? I don't know if the P car oxygen sensors are known to go bad without throwing out error codes...

Thanks for your help everyone.

There is a container near where you fill up the tank. You can

get to it by removing the wheel and removing the plastic

wheel wells. Mine pops on every now and then. I

bought an o-ring for the gas cap that helped a little.

Paul

A loose tank would cause the cylinders to misfire on one bank only? Not doubting your experience, but I'm not sure how it's mechanically relevant?

...last time you changed plugs and coil packs?

450 miles ago. :)

It's the strangest problem that car owners on other auto forums I found through a Google search seem to have, but never received any good answers for. Every time my 2002 C2 cab hits about the 1/2 mark on the fuel gauge, I get a CEL for P300, P304, P305, P306.

Any ideas on what might cause this?

yup. I'm pretty good at removing the door panel now, as I can take one off in less than 3 minutes. In regards to that second article, I read it previously to see if a part of the latch cable was hitting the window. So yes, I've studied both. :)

Any more clues?

they're not felt, but the rubber pads in the brackets are correctly installed.

I just poked around other threads, but I didn't find anything on adjusting the cables on the window regulator. So, how do you adjust the cables? is there an adjustment screw that tightens the cables? I didn't know the bowden cables on the window regulator assembly needed adjustments!

After getting my driver side window regulator replaced on my 2002 C2 cab, I've noticed that the window rattles back and forth inside the door shell causing yet another rattling noise in my car. This back and forth play doesn't exist in my passenger side window, which makes me think it has to do with how the window was reinstalled.

So far, I've tried making vertical adjustments using the adjustment screws, tightening the brackets that hold the windows in, and tightening all the bolts to the regulator. It almost looks like there should be an additional guide rail that the window should be sitting on that's missing. However, I've checked the parts catalogue and saw that no such thing exists for the 996.

Does anyone have any further guidance on this for me?

Thanks

the tech did check that before letting the car go. perhaps i should mention that the lifters were replaced before these misfires started showing up.

we cleared the code a few days ago, and now it seems to be running without codes showing up. should I just take this as one of those cases were the car just "fixes" itself?

so sorry, 2002 C2 Cab.

The codes that keep coming up are P300, P304, P305, and P306.

I forgot to mention that the common suspects like O2 sensors were checked as well, even though there were no other codes indicating a faulty sensor.

My car has taken a trip to the stealership 3 times now for misfires, and the techs can't seem to figure this one out! The entire bank is misfiring sporadically without giving clues as to what's causing it.

We've already replaced the coil packs, changed plugs, checked wires, and cycled through several tanks of fresh gas. However, still getting the misfires.

Now, is it the appropriate time to ask everyone about some other theories?

Sorry, didn't know there were customer agreements against this. For as long as I can remember, I would just ask on different car forums for the reports.

The VIN actually belongs to my car, and I'm just trying to get the record so I can see if the state inspection sticker on my car is legit. My friend just had a run-in with a counterfeit inspection sticker, and I was curious if I had ever been tricked at some point in the past. If all is well, the Carfax should show the last reported mileage...

I'm looking to get a Carfax report on my own car. Can anyone please help me?

WP0CA29922S653508

Thank you in advance

okay, I looked all over PET and can't even find the coolant tank in there!!!

So what is up with no anti-sieze?

I found the following written on Pelican Parts' website. So don't use any!

I noticed a leak in my coolant hose end are. So I poked around and saw that the hose itself looked fine. However, it looks like the t-fitting in the pictures seem to be cracked.

Can anyone tell me the part number for this part?

I'm so frustrated with coins, keys, and other small items falling in to the crack between the seat and the center console! Once something falls in there, it's next to impossible to fit your hand in there to retrieve it. And once the item falls under the seat rail, you're out of luck on even trying to see the item you're going after.

Aside from removing the seat, are there any easier ways to try and get the stuff out? If not, how is the seat held on to the body? Any obstacles I need to watch out for after taking out the 4 main bolts?

I spoke to Jeff Clark @ Sunset Imports just now and received a fantastic price on all the parts. About 40% savings from the local stealership!

He did let me know of some part number changes.

996 351 088 01 has changed to 996 351 088 02

996 351 959 00 has changed to 996 351 959 01

964 352 096 01 has changed to 996 352 086 01

996 352 959 00 has changed to 996 352 959 01

He also said that you would only need one repair kit per axle, if you even need it. As a low wear item, you could most likely get away with reusing the components until you hit the 80k service time frame.

I did the work today. I can confirm that you can have ONE repair kit per axle. I also saw that I didn't really need the repair kit, as all the components were just fine to reuse.

I also saw that the front pads got much more wear than the rear. While the sensor wires were almost gone in the front, the rear still had 1 mm of pad left before any of the sensor would have made contact with the rotor.

Overall, it took me 3 hours to do. An hour of that time was probably spent figuring out how to best lift the car on to jack stands....

I spoke to Jeff Clark @ Sunset Imports just now and received a fantastic price on all the parts. About 40% savings from the local stealership!

He did let me know of some part number changes.

996 351 088 01 has changed to 996 351 088 02

996 351 959 00 has changed to 996 351 959 01

964 352 096 01 has changed to 996 352 086 01

996 352 959 00 has changed to 996 352 959 01

He also said that you would only need one repair kit per axle, if you even need it. As a low wear item, you could most likely get away with reusing the components until you hit the 80k service time frame.

Here's my experience with Car Fax: can't trust it unless the title status on the car was changed to a salvaged title.

Many years ago, I owned a sponsored show car that was involved in a heavy collision that caused over $20,000 in body damage. The car by itself was only $30,000 brand new, so it was supposed to be called a total loss. However, the car also had an additional $40,000 insured for custom body work and audio equipment installs so I had to fight the insurance company to keep it from being declared a total loss. Why? I was under contract with my sponsors to keep all the equipment on the car for a specified amount of time, which I had not fulfilled yet. By breaching the contract, I was in the situation where I had to pay back all the work and equipment they had sponsored for me.

In any case, this accident that involved replacement of the entire rear body section of the car and realignment of frame and suspension geometry never showed up on Car Fax. So lesson learned, never trust Car Fax.

I know I posted about my warranty through www.insurancepoliciesonline.com in the past. It was a positive review, and I have more to add to it.

I took my car in yesterday for an oil change and a leaky power steering fluid hose. Warranty was to cover the work. A few hours went by, and the service manager called me to tell me that my RMS was leaking as well, but warranty company said they would cover the repairs. I also decided that this would be a great opportunity to do a clutch job, while they have the tranny out for the RMS.

Total cost of the repairs was supposed to be a little over $3,000. But thanks to the warranty, I think I'll end up paying something like $900 for the clutch kit and the oil change. So I think in the 8 months I've owned my warranty policy, I've already recovered the cost of the warranty plan... and more.