OCNYPORSCHE

Basically it is engine at operating conditions (i.e. warmed up).

Secondary Air

Diagnostic conditions

- Battery positive voltage between 10 V and 16 V

- Time after engine starts > 1 second

EVAP

Diagnostic conditions – V8

- Battery positive voltage between 10 V and 16 V

- Time after engine starts > 11 minutes and 30 seconds

- Idle speed

- All oxygen sensors ready for operation

- No oxygen sensor fault stored

- No tank vent driver fault stored

Thanks Loren!

"Ready status

The "Ready Status" menu item inidicates whether the OBD system has performed the required fault checks since the last time the 'fault memory was erased' or 'reset'. If a check proves to be OK, the oneoff check is sufficient for a Ready status; if the system is faulty, the Ready status is achieved after a second check.

This is important, for example, for Inspection and Maintenance; this is where it is possible to detect whether the fault memory of a faulty vehicle was erased before the examination, without the cause(s) of the fault having been remedied.

The ready status is displayed for the following sub-systems:

- Oxygen sensor heater

- Oxygen sensor

- Secondary-air system

- Fuel tank ventilation system

- Cat. conv. efficiency

Once the Ready status has been reached for a sub-system, this is stored until the next time the "fault memory is erased".

Note: in some countries (currently: USA, Canada), it is necessary to restore the Ready status following manipulation of the DME before the vehicle is supplied to the customer.

- To do this, you must perform the short test available in the 9588 Porsche System Tester ll or a test drive to achieve the relevant diagnostic conditions (these are listed for each system at the beginning of the test instructions for P codes in this manual)."

The dealer should have done this before he delivered the vehicle.

Thank Loren. You are right, the Porsche dealer should have done this. I bought from a Porsche dealer about 75 miles from me in CT. Since I was going to register it in NY, I guess they did not both getting it inspected in CT. But they should have still gotten all system into Ready status.

From the text that you posted, it says that: (these are listed for each system at the beginning of the test instructions for P codes in this manual). Can you post the test drive info for the secondary air and EVAP systems?

As far as I know there is no documentation of exactly what conditions need to be met for Ready.

I suspect it is based on what what the prior fault(s) were.

Have you checked to see that you have no fault codes and no pending fault codes?

I just put both a cheap scanner, and then Durametric and both show not fault codes. I am not sure where the pending ones would be shown, but both have no current codes. As for the prior faults, I am not sure since I just bought it from the dealer.

I read another post that indicated that the OBDII porsche manual would have the readiness info. I think the post indicated that the info was not in the service manual and that Porsche actually faxed the user the 2 pages. Here is the post: Here is the post

If you have no CEL and no fault codes the "Ready" state will change when there are enough drive cycles. We suspect they do this so that you can cheat on smog tests.

You just need to drive the car for a week or so until it passes the Ready test.

Hi Loren,

Thanks for the quick response. I have driven it for about 10 days, and about 800 miles. I have even tried some of idle, and 20-30 MPH stuff for minutes etc. Do you know if you post the exact OBDII procedure for the Cayenne Turbo? I looked in the OBDII codes section of the site, but I do not think that the readiness procedure is there.

I am scared that I will not be able to use the car since my failure is only given about 7 days to fix the issue.

Thanks!

Hello,

I recently bought a certified 2005 Cayenne Turbo. It is awesome.

I bought it out of state, and now getting a NY inspection, the secondary air and EVAP systems are still not ready, indicating not complete. I found out the hard way by failing inspection. This whole week I have been trying to get those 2 to become complete. From what I read and searched, both the secondary air and EVAP get set during a cold idle. But I think I tried all scenarios; I tried the BMW, Audi, and VW protocols that all vary in time from 5-15 mins of idle. But still, they are not setting.

Can someone help? Can anyone share the Porsche OBDII manual pages for setting these 2?

Thanks so much!

Hey Everyone,

My 02 Carrera II drove perfectly up to a few weeks ago; I had to go out of the country so it sat for 2.5 weeks (was started for me once during that time). I just drove it again and it drives really rough until it gets to 3K. It almost sounds like it has huge/lumpy cams on it and the power delivery is not linear. Any quick checks I might do or do I need to take it somewhere? It even threw a check engine/drive to workshop display for a second. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Danny

Sounds like coils to me. I would check all of the coils for cracks. If it is time for plugs, I would change all of the plugs and coils. If a threw a code like that, it sounds like a misfire.

If you can get a code reader and post the codes, that will help a great amount. I had a similar problem and it was the coil pack. They are very picky and even if they are new, they need to be installed vey carefully. I would guess it can be as simple as removing the coil pack on 5 and then reinserting the coil. Cylinder 5 is acutally a tough one as far as the muffler bracket being in the way, so it is probably just the way that they put it back on. Easily can be an intermittent problem.

Well I put in a new MAF, and guess what? The new MAF did NOT fix the problem.

Then I figured it must be cylinder 2, so I removed the coil again and carefully inserted the coil and made sure that I put it on squarely. Long story short, the car works perfectly now!!!

Thanks everyone for helping, especially Loren! Loren, this forum is amazing and you taking the time to help really makes a huge difference (and you are always right!)

Thanks again!

You have all the tools your need to determine if the MAF is the problem. Have your looked at the airflow rate and the intake temperature reading and the engine load? Why replace something when you you haven't determined it is bad? It is also common that the contacts on the connector get oxidized and a good cleaning may correct the problem.

Thanks. You are right, with Durametric I can get all of the values. But from searching other threads, it seems that cleaning is only temporary, and I think that mine is shot, since I changed the coil packs and plugs, and the problem gets worse when the car is hot. If it was coils or plugs, the problem would not likely happen when cold too.

I ordered a new MAF on Wed, so it should arrive today. I will post back to let everyone know if it solved the problem. If it doesn't I will need all of your help :)

P1314 Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant

P1319 Misfire, Emission Relevant

- Fouled, faulty or incorrect

- Contact resistance

- Loose contacts

Are you sure the coil pack electrical is properly connected on cylinder 2?

Hi Loren,

I am pretty sure that I connected that one well. It is a very tough plug to get to. I changed the coil and plug. But since it seems to get worse with heat, and there is the P0300 error, wouldn't that suggest the MAF instead?

Thanks guys. I am even thinking that I may have messed the MAF up more by trying to clean it. What is surprising is how bad the car was working when it got hotter. So I am thinking that specifically the air temp sensor of the MAF is bad.

But can the MAF cause misfires to only come to 1 cylinder? I know that P0300 is a random misfire, but I also had P0302.

I had 2 codes about 2 weeks ago: P0303, and P1315. I know that P0303 is misfire in cylinder 3, and P1315 is misfire in cylinder 3, emission relevant.

Loren recommended that I look at the coil packs, especially # 3. I changed all 6 coil packs and plugs. Interestingly, they all looked really good, and maybe spark plug 3 looked a little less good than the others, but nothing really extreme. I also cleaned the MAF.

Yesterday I drove about 40 miles, with some loss of power and hesitation at around 2500 to 3000RPM when the engine was warmed up. Then the CEL came on. It did not blink, it just came on. Then I need to drive home the 40 miles, and of course I got stuck in some bad traffic with the outside air temp around 95F. The hestitation got worse as the engine temp went up to 103-107C, and the steady CEL started to blink, and car wanted to stall, but never did. So the CEL went from solid, to a blink, back to solid again, and the car really ran terrible. since I was in traffic, the car idled back down to a shaky 600RPM.

When I finally got home, I used durametric and got:

P1319 - Misfire, Emission Relevant

P1314 - Misfire, Cylinder 2, Emission Relevant

P0300 - Misfire/Random

P0302 - Misfire, Cylinder 2

P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor - Below Lower Limit

P0112 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Below Lower Limit

But before I used Durametric to get this codes, I did disconnect the MAF, so the P0102 and P0112 might be from the disconnection. I only disconnected the MAF for a second or 2. I know that was a stupid thing to do, but I wanted to see if the MAF was going to make a difference. There was a noticable change when I disconnected the MAF, the engine went to about 800, then came back down.

I am thinking that the problem is MAF. I was very careful to put the new coil packs on. Before all of this the problem was cylinder 3, now it is cylinder 2, but the P0300 is really saying random misfire.

Is it on the driver or passenger side and is there a trick to removing the trim or do you just pull it off? I didnt notice any screws or fasteners.

It is on the passenger's side.

Hi Loren,

Which cylinder is #3. Is it the one towards the back of the car on the drivers side?

Thanks!

Loren, I agree. But from the P1315, the problem should be emissions related? So would that still be coil pack, or plug? Would a coil pack or plug be intermittent?

The car has been working great today. I also installed and ran Durametric, but I not sure how to read the O2 and MAF readings. Both banks seem to follow one another or match.

So I am thinking that it may be a dirty MAF or still bad gas. If it was bad gas, isn't possible that it could affect only 1 cylinder?

Thanks Loren. I will check. Too bad that one is really tough to get to. Cylinder 3 is in the back on the driver's side. Here is the funny thing, this morning the car worked perfect. I had reset the CEL yesterday, parked it for the night in the garage, and then this morning it is totally perfect (or working normal). Could this just be bad gas? Maybe I should try some dry gas, but I hate putting anything in the gas tank except for gas.

Ok some background and maybe some pointers - Ie Am I OK to still drive.

here is the background -- Had the car three years (996 1999) No issues at all - done 25K miles had it serviced on the nail - Actually just had a minor service 400 miles ago ..

Drove the car yesterday did few hundred miles and drove to work today -- Came home Midday .. (left card outside - It has rained heavily)

So 6 hours after driving ie Car is cold - Wife goes to pick up daughter .. Comes home and says that light (the CEL) flashed 5x and then went solid -- Then she drove a little further and it flashed and went solid - Clearly I said if it flashed then YOU should not drive - Anyhow the journey was about a mile so I dont see a huge problem - Plus the light was Solid. Didnt continue to flash.

My symptoms are

Solid CEL

Rough Idle

So I pulled the wiring out of the MAF and disconnected the battery for 1 Min - Reconnected everything - Ran the car - No CEL everything seems fine. It runs just the same as it ever did - Nice and smooth - Power seems there - Engine doesnt feel lumpy like its throw a cylinder or anything really serious

Question --

Are the codes still there if I took it to a dealer .. Or its all gone as as Cleared it down .

Should I suspect MAF and or Coilpacks (ie car is now getting on a bit)

Final question - OK to continue to drive like this ? Temps and oil pressures seem just the same as always . The CEL is only related to Engine Air and fuel mix intake issues - Thats correct isnt it ? -

I know this question has been asked a few times - but I have been confused on the CEL light - Maybe it was dirt on the MAF or water in a coilpack . Is there any way to visually tell >?

Advice much appreciated .

all the best and thanks.

I was just going to start a new thread with a very similar problem. It started last week, and after I started my car at work, it seemed a little rough, but not too bad, then about 6 miles later while doing about 75MPH, the car starts to run rough, like going over bad pavement, then the CEL flashes about 5 times, then stays on. When the CEL stays on, the car is fine and back to normal. I went home and got out my code reader, and accidently clicked on "clear codes".

So today, after about 60 miles of everything being OK, the same exact thing happened. This time I got P0303, and P1315. I know that P0303 is misfire in cylinder 3, and P1315 is misfire in cylinder 3, emission relevant. I also just bought durametric, but I not sure if clearing with the cheap code reader, if durametric will still be able to pull up the codes.

My 99 996 has about 24K on it now, and has been working great. Could this a bad MAF, or o2 sensor?

Thanks!

If the radio comes on, then it is not the fuse. If it is a Hifi system, then maybe the stock amp is blown. I do not think there is fuse on the amp.

I have had them in past cars, and I think it is OK, but not spectacular. IMHO, for 2K, I would get other items. I do not have it in my 08 either, I opted to get the nav etc.

Sorry, my bad - I grabbed the wrong image the first time.

It has now been corrected.

Thanks Loren. I am assuming the plug is #14 right?

Yes, and the sealing ring is 15.

Do you need the part numbers?

Thanks Loren! Part numbers would be great! Best site for Porsche DIY'ers!

Sorry, my bad - I grabbed the wrong image the first time.

It has now been corrected.

Thanks Loren. I am assuming the plug is #14 right?

That is correct. There is now one drain plug and it is on the rear side of the sump.

Thanks Loren. But the engine in your picture is a 6 cylinder. I have a 08 CS. Is the oil drain location the same?

Has anyone done an oil change on a 2008 Cayenne S? I was ordering a filter from Sunset today, and it seems they said that there in now only 1 oil drain plug and the washer is now the same as the 996. Can anyone verify?

Interesting...

You mention that you keep an eye on operating temp with the OBD hack. I have the hack working and can toggle (with the switch on the dash, not the 4th stalk) from outside temp, to miles till empty, to AVG MPG and to something else (>MPH, ever wondered what that's for?).

Never have I seen the operating temp in that cycle. Looking forward to do this.

Joost

There are 2 "hacks". One is a "hack" that involves a certain sequence that results in a digital display of the temperature on the heating/cooling controls. The OBC is the On Board Computer mod that either involves the 4th stalk, or a switch.

The car is a daily driver with 42k miles. Last night, when I got on the highway and hit 60mph a humming sound was coming from the rear. It sounded to me like if you were to hit a bad patch of road or a bridge but that wasn't the case. As I stated in the thread title, the sound disappeared at 70mph. Last weekend I put 160 miles on the car at highway speeds and did not hear the sound. My rear tires are due for a change out and hopefully that's the issue. hope it's not a cracked break pad or something. Anyway I've scheduled an appointment with the dealership next week.

Any thoughts?

Oh and the hum does not oscillate, it's constant at 60mph.

Thanks,

This one may be an easy one. I was thinking it was your tires, then when you mention that they are do for a change, that was the icing for me. With some tires, as they wear down they can be loud at certain speeds. If it is time to change, I would change the tires and see if that was your problem.