achillies

I had a shop activate my cruise control about 8 month ago.  I needed Loren to describe the steps as the shop was not able to figure it out.  I then installed the wiring.  After the green dash light lite up.  Can I assume that this means the CC has been activated in the cluster?  The cruise did not work.  So I bought a new (used) column switch and had a DIYr on 986Forum make a harness.  I installed the new switch and harness.  Again the green light comes on but no cruise.  The one oddball thing was the fact that the car was able to climb a hill in 3nd gear at 5 mph but I was unable to accelerate the car with the switch and then climb a second hill without gas..

Sorry for the length but I really don't know what to do next and I have no shop in the area with the Porsche tool (except the shop that did it the 1st time)

Thanks

Bob

I put a set on my 03 and hope to handle winter with just these.  I can avoid driving in and just after any storms so I hope these will do it.  Tire Rack says they will.

As alway...you the man.

They just got it and they are the only ones except dealers (that don't want to bother) for 50 miles.  So hopefully they will get better.

Anyway..thanks again.

Bob

I took my 03 986S to my shop today to get the cruise activated. They use a KTS650 w/Porsche software. The cruise was able to be turned on in the DME but in the Cluster area/Coding the module returned a message requiring the Order Code. They did not understand what that was and just said there was a problem w/ my cluster or wiring. As I re-read the Pelican DIY it seems for my year the order code is 986320. Can anyone tell me where the shop needs to enter this so I can try it again? Thanks

Pretty much a similar process. If you are good with a soldering iron and can find a used cluster (correct model) that would be the least expensive fix. Of course the used one could do that too...

I had a cluster that"spydered" over the time area last winter and as summer came the spot whent away. Now I have a spyder over the 1st number of the odometer. Do they "fix" themselves?

Anyone know what a 996 partial leather/partial electric seat weighs? I need to ship and cant weigh it.

Thanks

This is the best forum. I really appreciate the response for this and other items in the past. It never fails that someone has a solution to the problem. I used the gasket material and it worked perfectly...no parts to order and the car was back in use the next morning. Thanks to all.

Thanks for the help.

Yesterday I put a 4 spoke steering wheel on my 2000 996. It went on fine and I screwed in the airbag. But the horn is very sensative...sometimes just honks with a turn of the wheel sometimes when Ipush the airbag...just way to quick to honk. Do I just back out the screws a little or is there a larger issue? Thanks

Is Loctite 5900 the sealant to use when replacing the oil pan on a 2000 996? Thanks

Sorry if I am hijacking this thread but I have the opposite....readings of 5 bar when cold and above 3 when fully warmed at idle moving to 4.7 at any RPM above 3000. I use Mobil1 0w40. I have replaced the sender. Does this seem ok? THanks

The latest TSB says that oils that are Porsche approved and of the same specifications can be mixed but warns that each oil brand can have different formulations, etc. It reads like they are talking about during and oil change....it dies say that top offs should be the same as what was in the cr.

So maybe it is the Falkens being overwhelmed by the brakes? Better tires would solve this? Thanks

I have a 2000 Carrera it has new rotors, pads, fluid flush. When I apply the brakes hard I seem to activate the ABS very early..the pulsing starts way before the car seems to be ready for lock-up. I hope I am describing this correctly. The tires are Falken 452s with less than 4000 miles. The brakes did this before the new pads and rotors. The car stops ok but doesnt seem to have that "porsche" braking. Thanks

I had a B&M but found it very notchy so I switched to a 997 shifter and I like it better but I think it is hard to tell if it is really "shorter" than the stock 996 shifter.

The battery is at least 42 mo old (how long I have had it). It has not been tested. It is not on a maintainer...this one I know but I cant park it near an outlet..too many cars. So I should get the battery tested. I was just concerned that it fired the car right up when cold but not when warm. Thanks

Hi..I have a 2000 996. When it is first started it cranks and fires up without any issues. But after coming to operating temp any attempt to restart results in a slow/difficult crank. It always starts but it turns over slowly. I would normally say it needs a battery but since it starts when cold I am not sure. I live in Las Vegas so batteries are not always long lived and the car doesnt get driven a lot. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks

I just finished my wheels following the Excellence mag instructions. They came out perfectly for about $40.00. I didnt dismount the wheels just used masking tape...not a big deal. Cant beat the price.

I have Falken 452s on my daily driver. Quiet, good grip for street use and they do not seem to wear like the Michelins that came on the car.

I changed the trans oil a few weekends ago with Mobil 1 SHC Delvac 1 (75w90) oil. The trans now is very sensative to temp in the morning. It feels difficult to engage the gears. As it warms up it gets better but still has a "notchy" feeling that wasnt there before (and requires a much more methodical gear change...almost like a 915). Any thoughts should I refill with regular Shell or Mobil 1 or am I imagining things.

2000 996 C2.

Thanks

Ok..I will replace the coil packs. But I see 3 numbers possible.

99760210700

99760210400

99660210101

I have a 2000 996.

Do I order the 996 part number or 997 part number?

Thanks

Hi all....I have a 2000 996 w/6speed. Over the weekend in order to replace a vacuum hose I removed the TB, Alt, and Oil Fill tube. Now it has a erratic idle with a misfire. I cycled the DME twice but no better. The Durametric is showing P0300, 0301 and 0304 which are misfires. As I read the manual it appears that the TB crosstube needs to have arrows lined up? Could this cause a misfire? Is a misfire caused by a leak somewhere? Any direction to look would be helpful as it appears that everything is reattached correctly. Thanks in advance.

THanks for the repies...I got it in. Yikes...now 1 last thing....is there a procedure for the throttle body if I have removed it and disconnected the battery? I seem to remember something like turn ignition on for 30 seconds. THen off then on again. Again I appreciate all the help.

Thanks for the replies...I removed the alt, and TB and the only thing that looks like it is missing a tube is a hose at the very rear of the engine to the right and farther back than the intake crossover tube and starter. (See pic). If this is it do you have any suggestions on how to reattach a flimsy line to a arubber tube that is almost impossible to get my hand on? Is it important? Can I just cap the platic line? The 2nd pic is of the valve behind the alternator it seems to have all the lines attached.Thanks again.

After I changed my oil tube I foiund this hose is no longer going where it is supposed to go. Can anyone tell me where this line ends?