guzerone

I let is sit for an hour and checked all control modules for fault codes again, nothing, even the PDK code went away.

What's next, unplug one control module at a time?

Hooked up the PIWIS and found all kinds of low voltage and CAN codes, I cleared them all and none came back. The only active code was PDK - U0418 CAN fault, brake.

Would that cause  the car not to go into sleep?

I drove it around to clear the PSM steering sensor code and locked it. I'll check the codes again in a few hours.

I have one but I never tried it with the car off and no key in the ignition. Let's see..

2009 Boxster, base w PDK, stock except for springs, sway bars and front LCAs. When locked, it draws around 1.5A, then it goes down to 0.1 or so for a few seconds, then back up to 1.5A.

When it goes back up, there is a faint motor noise in the dash somewhere, like a blend door actuator (but it's not, it also draws 1.5A when I disconnect the HVAC controller). SO I started pulling fuses and even with all fuses removed, it still draws about 0.3A. What's interesting is that when I pull row B fuse 3 (control units for seats, steering column, TPMS, Alarm and tilt sensor), the current goes from 1.5A to 1.1A and when I pull row D fuse 10 (PCM 3 Terminal 30), it drops by another 0.5 A to 0.6A. It looks like some control module is keeping the whole car from going to sleep. I found a wedged fuel door actuator (bushing was missing) but after I fixed that, the power draw is unchanged.

Any ideas what it could be?

I found an easier way, sounds better too..

I basically cut open the muffler from the top (had it out because I fixed my wobbling transmission shifter shaft) and cut out some of the internal piping (along the black lines in the pic)and closed it up again. The exhaust flow now has a more direct path to the tips.

Both, I installed the RoW M030 on my 2001 S, like the ride but it felt a bit over-dampened. I also didn't like the ride height so In installed the H&R springs on the M030 shocks.

I like the ride, firmer than M030 but not by much, not over-dampened anymore (no sideways movement when going over expansion joints in a turn).

I like the overall balance, the front sway bar might be a tad too stiff, I might install the stock S sway bar and see if that helps the balance (lawyer-induced understeer..)

18x10 ET65 rear wheels with 285/30-18, using a 20mm spacer.

18x9 ET52 (Boxster rear wheels) in front running 255/35-18, no spacer.

De-snorkel and $130 ebay headers will make the engine peaky and a joy to rev (4.0 bar FPR and underdrive pulley help too).

I have a similar issue, when I back up and hit the brakes, the pads click, after driving forward, they click again the first time I hit the brakes but they

don't click on subsequent braking. I think the pads have some play up and down in the caliper and causes them to click.

I'm using OE pads from Suncoast (Textar) on the street (they click) and Hawks HT-10 on the track (they don't click). I have the shims installed but not glued to the pads.

Gunter

After puffing smoke at the track, I got a Motorsports version of the Air/Oil Separator (P/N 996 107 926 00)

for my 99 C2 back in September.

I finally had time to install it (what a pain removing alternator, left intake, etc) just to find out that it doesn't fit,

the mount to the cylinder head is quite different.

The question now is, what engines does it fit?

Thanks,

Gunter

I have a 99 C2 with the same factory audio (M490) and I just installed an Alpine iDA- X200. I decided to get rid of the factory amp and got an after market

5-channel amp. The problem is that the 6-channel factory amp has some non-standard input level and a built-in crossover for the sub (in the doors)

that can't be modified.

If you don't want to go all-out on speakers and amps, I suggest to put 6x9 speakers in the doors (they fit nicely once you remove the factory speakers

and enclosure) and connect them directly to the X200.

I ran 6x9's in the doors for about a year (with a cheap 2x100W RMS amp), I just upgraded everything, Polk Audio DB401 speakers in the dash and a custom 2x8" sub in the back driven by a used Hifonics Z700 5-ch amp. I'll install the PXA-H100 Imprint audio processor this coming weekend.

Gunter

No, I haven't noticed any sagging since I installed the coilovers.

Gunter

Given the issues with the oiling system in the early 996 (oil starvation, oil sucked in AOS), is it worth investing in R-compund tires like R888 and NT01 or am I just going to kill the engine with the added cornering g-forces?

Is anyone out there who's tracking a 996 without major oiling upgrades on r-compound tires on a regular basis?

Gunter

99 996 C2

H&R Street Performance Coilovers

GT3 sways + Prowergridinc links

I had the same problem, turns out that the balljoints of the sway bar end links had some play.

After a day at Pacific Raceways, I noticed an oil stain under the engine the next day and I feard the worst (RMS)

but it looks like the leak is some sort of bellows over the left cylinder head (see pic).

I assume that the 'thing' on the upper end of the ruber bellows is the AOS?

I had a bit too much oil in the engine (about 3 milimeter on the dip stick), the idea was to avoid

oil starvation in turn 2 (long left sweeper), could that have caused this?

There is no smoke but the idle is rough even after cleaning the TB and the ICV.

Should I replace just the bellows/tube or the whole AOS?

Gunter

99 C2 41K Miles

H&R Street Performance Coilovers

GT3 Sways + Powergrid links

I just installed these on my 99 C2. You'll need a spring compressor because you have to disassemble the factory

struts and reuse all the parts that go on top of the spring. The front was lowered 30mm, the rear 25mm.

Gunter

Yes, I just installed 295/30-18 (Kumho Ecsta SPT) on the factory 18x11 Turbo twist wheels.

No rubbing, even with a 12mm spacer and coilovers.

Don't know yet, I just ordered a set..

I couldn't resist, at that price..

Speed sensitive volume is called 'auto volume', the default setting is moderate unlike the CDR220, the turn-on volume can be adjusted or set to last volume when turned off. The phone volume can also be preset.

Radio is great, better sensitivity and sound than the CRD220, MP3/WMA sound quality is OK, not quite a good as the Rockford-Fosgate Omnifi I had before.

Just installed a Hamburg MP57 in my 99 C2, love it.

Installation was a breeze since it's using the same DIN wiring as the OE unit, just unplug the CDR220 and plug in the MP57.

Even the speed sensitive volume control works. I installed the Mic (for the Bluetooth Handsfree) next to the sunroof switch and ran the cable down the left side A-pillar (also did the remote controll range-extension mod while I had the cover off).

Bluetooth works like a charm, I paired it with my Samsung Blackjack. Allthough the 996 is quite noisy on rough roads, voice quality is excellent.

Best $199 spent on my p-car so far..