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Dennis C

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Posts posted by Dennis C

  1. Group,

    I couldn't find reference to this anywhere, so I have to bite the bullit and ask you all;

    With PSM Off, driving at Highway Speeds, the transmission will not upshift to D6, unless I Tiptronic it up to D6.

    Is this normal?

    :huh:

    In my experience, this is normal. My Cayenne S will never shift into D6 when PSM is deactivated.

    Dennis, I don't think I've ever had PSM deactivated on one of the Cayenne's...I have with the Boxster. Why would you drive a Cayenne with PSM deactivated? I would think it's especially important with a SUV.

    Bill :beer:

    I don't do it very often. I agree with you - there isn't a reason to do this frequently in a big SUV.

    I think it is fun if you are interested in a little bit of sporty driving every now and then, but that's about it. The Cayenne will very quickly move through the gears to "D6" if PSM is activated, which is not always the best for that type of driving.

    I'm not planning on taking the Cayenne to the track, or doing any "drifting".

  2. The sliver calipers on the Cayenne S are the same as the red calipers on the Cayenne Turbo. The Cayenne Turbo S has bigger calipers, and they are also painted red.

    This is not a consistent standard across Porsche's lineup. If you look, for example, at the 996 Carrera 4, you will also see silver painted calipers. These, however, are the same as the calipers on the Carrera 2, only painted silver instead of black. The red calipers on the Carrera 4S and Carrera Turbo are bigger. So... silver calipers aren't necessarily the same as red.

    Then there's yellow for PCCB... another story.

  3. The 2004 Cayennes used a CD-based nav system, not a DVD-based nav system. The CD-based system loads into a CD slot on in the dash - there's nothing under the seat (just an empty drawer). I'm not sure if the DVD system will read the data from the CD - it sounds like it might, but I'd try to find the newest DVD maps and software and install those. They should be readily available at the dealer.

  4. It is nice to have PASM if you have 20" wheels. I generally keep mine on "sport", although sometimes it gets very harsh, depending on the road. It is nice to be able to switch to "comfort" when necessary. I don't think I would buy 20" wheels withouth PASM.

    Wow are you right about the ride quality on the 20's. I test drove an 05 CS certified last night with 20" sport design rims and standard suspension and that thing was the worst riding vehicle I have ever been in. I actually thought some interior pieces, which were rattling heavily from the potholes, might fall off from the rough ride (I am in WI and our roads are almost nonexistant from govt neglect and harsh winters). While visually 20's are appealing the 18" ride is a million times better on rough roads!!

    i have a MY2004 Cayenne v6 with 17x7.5 rims. I have the opportunity to purcase 2004 cayenne turbo rims 19x9. Has anyone had any experience with this? what happened to ride quality? was an adjustment necessary to the speedometer? did you need spacers? do you recomend the spacers?

    thanks

    guess you dont have air ride? me neither, and since I've tested, drive, owned, all those 3 measures (besides 17" which doesnt work for the v8 peppers) 18", 19" and 20" - I can tell that you will feel the differences in ride quality with bigger wheels, as you will earn better handling but more bumppy ride. So, dont know how are the roads on your area, but if you have good ones, you can go for 19", also 20". if the roads are bad, stay with 18". as for the visual effect you might consider 20" sport tehno.

    also, you DONT NEED to: - use spacers at all - these OEM wheels will clear your calipers by far

    - to adjust your speedo; the overall diameter is almost the same,

    Tire - 235/65R17 -- Speedometer Difference: 0.000% -- Actual Speed: 60.0 mph

    Tire 1 - 255/55R18 -- Speedometer Difference: 0.069% too slow -- Speedometer1: 59.9 mph

    Tire 2 - 275/45R19 -- Speedometer Difference: 0.976% too fast -- Speedometer2: 60.5 mph

    Tire 3 - 275/40R20 -- Speedometer Difference: 1.255% too fast -- Speedometer1: 60.7 mph

    good luck, and dont forget to post pictures when is done.

  5. Just for kicks, I took my PC into the car to see if the IR port recognized it. To my surprise, they recognized each other. The PC gave me a message box that said it had connected to Porsche PCM, and I could transfer files.

    I attempted to transfer contact information files as a test. I received some kind of message in German on the PCM screen, and nothing else happened. I decided to stop, for fear of doing something bad.

  6. I've had phenomenal success with the Michelin Tour HP's...I run them on 20's (275/40/R20). I believe they have one of the best treadwear ratings in their class at 440. Great performance and great handling! I've had them on the '06 for about 15K now...significant improvement from the Pirelli's I had when I purchased the upgraded wheel package.

    All the best,

    Bill B)

    My Cayenne S came from the factory with the Contis on 20" wheels. They weren't bad, but they made excessive road noise at roughly 20K miles. They were replaced after 24,000 miles because they were worn. Not bad for a performance tire.

    Because of occasional light snow, I switched to a performance all-season tire with the "M+S" rating. I ended up going with the Hankook Ventus tire. I realize it isn't an n-spec tire, but I have been relatively happy. I have about 25,000 miles on them now. They are starting to make some road noise, but the tread is holding up much better than the Continentals.

    If you are more interested in performance driving, I'd stick with softer rubber. I've heard good things about the Michilins, and they should last longer than the Pirellis.

  7. I had to buy a new battery for my 2004 CS.

    I was thinking about this today, and I was wondering how much money you have invested in your Cayenne.

    here is my story, and I'll be glad if you advise me what to do next?

    I have for less then a year a CS MY04 now with close to 80.000km, and have discovered later that this is one of those first 2 years of production that will give you headaches, if the car wasnt taken at the dealer for solving all the TSB, or the dealer didnt do their job. however, some of the problems are not covered entirely from Porsche, afaik. Maybe, it's just me that I havent been so lucky :(

    remember that i live in Europe, Romania and the prices for parts in my country are way bigger than in US for instance:

    I have invested for maintenance, labour and parts, "only" arround or more than 2500$

    - in which I have solved common problems for these cars like: ignition coils, spark plugs, replaced defective MAF units - both of them, front wheel bearings, door handle (driver side) with a newer one and right now it started not working properly - today I will try to check and see if there are any errors, replaced the throttle body complete - as the original one had been making a lot of problems. offcourse, in this I have included also all the filters, fluids, wipers, etc...

    - besides that amount, 1 set of wheels & tires- the former ones were good enough summer tires (pirelli p zero assimetrico on 19") with a lot of thread left, actually it had paint on the tires but after a longer trip (arround 2k kms) I have seen a bad wear of the tires (inside the wheels), so at the end of the summer went and bought a new pair of 18" OEM wheels and a full set of tires as winter tires, Pirelli Scorpion Zero. however, lets say that I didnt spent so much money into those as I have sold the 19" wheels, and recovered almost 1/3 of the amount that i have spent into the newer ones. still, like other have discovered, after the new alignment was done, the bad wear hited again. Now, I need to buy new end links and get the car to the service once again. For summer, I have bought new summer wheels, a very nice, not new, set of OEM 20" SPORT DESIGN which I had them refurbished and a brand new set of tires: Pirelli Scorpion Zero Assimetrico 275/40/20" - very nice tires. hope this replacement of the end links, which dont shows that are bad btw, will solve this problem.

    - another part of my bad luck with this car was that I had to replace also the AC compressor, as the former one got cracked somehow.

    all of these can be summed as minimum 3k $.

    and then:

    because I wanted more from this car, at the beggining when I didnt knew what it will come:

    - I bought 2nd bypass pipes from Fabspeed - arround 550$ without shipping to Romania

    - Got for free of charge a PCM 2.1, but a defective unit - the LCD wasnt working - I dont have time to make a post of how that was fixed, but if you have defective units, dont throw them, contact me and I will tell you what you have to do. this applies also for PCM2, doesnt matter what car came from. 300$

    - Durametric Professional version: arround a little over 1.1k $, for the tool+shipping+taxes

    - xenon lights - 250$

    - have bought all the parts new in order to change the front look into Turbo, and actually right now I have 2 Turbo Bumpers- one complete and one only the cover which it isnt new. - 3000$

    and the list can go on, but dont remember everything.

    the "custom" parts costs me: arround 5000$

    a short summarise will bring that I have spent in less than 1 year: arround or more than 10.000 $. WTF???

    is this what you normally pay?

    if you cut all the parts that i didnt need them, it is also incredible how expansive it is to mantain this car.

    still my car NEEDS the following: new driveshaft shaft, here cost arround 1500$ just the part without labour, the Tiptronic valve controller which is also arround 2000$, end tie rods, and a new key. if I will get them from states without shipping that will be huge, it will cost me arround 2k $. here arround 3500$. + I want to replace belts, as a kit with water pump etc...

    My impression is that I should have bought another car. My buddies dont have so many problems with their cars like I did, owning X5 older and newer models, 5&7 series, Q7, A8, Range Rover, Toyota, Mercedes ML, GL, and also our twin brother Touareg with their V10 tdi, and the list can go on.

    ok, you will say its an older car, but this was barelly used as I know this car since they've bought it: used only 2 1/2 years on highways across europe only for vacation purposes and other 1 1/2 was kept in garage and used from time to time - when I picked it they have replaced the batteries, also this car have seen higher rpms only from me, not that I've abused it somehow.

    so for me, this car is the worst investment of all the times, not to count how much eats. the problem is that I cant sell it anymore, here the bad times have just appeared and people are more worried about what they will do tommorow, also need to mention there isnt such a big market for older Cayenne's as there are too many for sale newer and older.

  8. Is there any way of transmitting my mobile phones' address book entries to the PCM via its IR port.

    I tried this today with the PCM recognising the transmission by reproducing the name briefly in the bottom part of the screen, so I knew the transmission and receive operation is operational.

    Unfortunately I cannot find the just transmitted info anywhere in the PCM (address book etc).

    The PCM owners manual gives no info on the Infra Red capabilities of the PCM.

    I have PCM 2 with version 3.0 software.

    Any clues gents?

    Where is the IR port? I didn't even realize that PCM 2.0 had such a thing.

  9. I think others must have run into this. Both front signal lights have gone on the fritz!

    When you take out the bulb and look at the contact points in the headlight housing, you can see that the contacts have been arcing and result in the actual contact getting a hole worn in it.s

    As a fix, we soldered leads onto the bulb holder, pulled the contact points out of the headlight and soldered the wires to to the leads as well - giving enough length to be able to remove the bulb holder and replace bulbs are requirred.

    Just a quick fix if you are having the same problem

    Brent

    I think this can be caused by the headlight carriage loosening, allowing for movement. The next time you remove the headlight assembly, check the bolts on the front of the carriage. I believe they are 10mm. They are frequently loose. If you tighten these up, even with a little blue Lock-Tite, it should help the problem. It certainly helped for me!

  10. Hi,

    I have a line on some new wheels and I wanted to know if my current tires would fit. I can't remember the size but I think they are the factory 255/55/20's and I have 10" wheels now. The new wheels are 20 x 9.5 and I wanted to know if the tires would fit?

    Thanks in advance,

    Bob

    The factory 20" wheel came in two options - one for the Turbo S and one for the rest of the line. I believe the Turbo S has 10" rear wheels, and 9" front wheels. I think the rest of the line has 9x20 all around. The stock tire for this wheel is 275/40ZR20 XL.

    I'm not sure about the tire size question - you might try a local tire shop and see what they think.

  11. I tried a search but found nothing on this.

    My Cayenne started doing something strange today. Park assist works fine on the front sensors when I move slowly in drive but when I select reverse I get a lower tone beep for about 2 seconds and 2 red lights on both the front and rear sensor panels? No other lights just the 2 outer red ones on each panel?

    It only does this in reverse and the system does not sense anything. It fine in Drive and senses perfect??

    Any ideas?

    Thanks.

    I agree - sounds like dirty sensors. It's an issue in the winter, especially if you are in a snowy area. It can also happen if there is a buildup of ice on the back bumper.

  12. Hello all, I have searched this, but still have a couple questions...

    1) Battery under seat is for all the electronics etc.

    2) Auxillary battery in the back is for starting only

    Do you have to replace both batteries, or just the one under the seat?

    What issues arise when the battery starts to go? Our radio has been doing wierd things, heating won't come on until cayenne starts and things cycle through (about 10 seconds)

    With the key in the ignition - volt meter reads approx 11 votls, and when running reads 14-15: does this indicate time for new battery

    thanks

    brent

    Cayennes do really strange things when the batteries start to go. Anything from components not working properly to warning messages. If you change the main battery under the seat, this should take care of the majority of your problems. However, if I had two batteries in my Cayenne, I'd probably change them both.

  13. I have just bought a 53 plate Cayenne S, I cannot get the heated seat to work. I have checked the various fuses it could be. The switches light up with the lights on but no heat is coming out. Any ideas on what this could be?

    Are the seat heater switches on a Cayenne like the switches on a Boxster? That is, are they "3 position" switches where you press on the front of the switch for "Off", press once on the rear and a red light goes on for "High" and press again on the rear and a yellow light goes on for "Low"?

    If so, could you please describe the exact symptoms, as your problem may be related to a faulty relay under the seat.

    Regards, Maurice.

    No, it's a wheel with 5 positions, 5 being the hottest.

  14. I have just bought a 53 plate Cayenne S, I cannot get the heated seat to work. I have checked the various fuses it could be. The switches light up with the lights on but no heat is coming out. Any ideas on what this could be?

    What is a "53 plate Cayenne S"?

    The seats take a little while to warm up, how long are you waiting? Also - I'm not sure they work if the outside temperature is not cold. Is it cold where you are now, or are you just testing them out in a warm area? I may be wrong on this issue... I know my old Saab was like this, but I'm not sure about the Cayenne.

  15. I suggest waiting for the sensors to tell you that the brake pads are worn. When you change the brakes, you'll need to do pads and sensors at a minimum. As DDiggler suggests, you need a caliper to make sure the rotors are in spec before you decide whether or not to replace them. I changed my four original pads at roughly 41,000 miles, and my rotors were still well within spec, so I didn't change them. The sensors actually had not yet been activated on my rear pads, but I went ahead and changed them anyway.

    The change is quite easy, especially if you've done brake pads before. If you need to do the rotors, you'll need a certain tool to remove the, I think it's a Torx T50, but you can confirm that by searching the forums.

    Good luck.

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