Dennis C

I agree on the speakers too. I've got Focals all the way around too, with a Focal amp. They are just really starting to "open up" since they were installed, and the sound is great. I'm extremely pleased with them.

I recently installed a Kenwood DNX 6960 in my car, and it does duplicate the trip computer function found in OEM systems. I haven't really used it though, because I generally use the information in the instrument cluster of my 996 for this type of information.

Thule has some very nice options for Cayennes. I bought a set of Thule crossbars and a ski rack, and I love them. They will cost you a bit more than $200, but it's well worth it IMHO.

Why would you buy that cheap Chinese crap for your "Porsch"? I would recommend a unit from Kenwood or Pioneer. I upgraded the head unit in my 911 to a Kenwood DNX-6960, and I am very pleased with it. I'm planning to do the same for the Cayenne in the near future.

You'll definitely need pads and sensors. Rotors can sometimes make it through two sets of pads - you need to have them checked to make sure they are still within spec. My first set of rotors lasted through two sets of pads. Interestingly, both sets of front pads lasted almost exactly 40,000 miles. I wouldn't wait to do it - by the time the sensor indicates a need for a trip to the workshop, the pads are pretty thin. If you have any interest in saving your rotors for a second set of pads, then you should get new pads on there quickly. Also, if you haven't changed your brake fluid in the last 18 - 24 months, I would do that too.

Sounds like a window regulator to me too. You can use your existing window motor. It's a fairly easy DIY, the hardest part is removing the interior door panel without damaging any of the little plastic clips that hold the various pieces in place.

Good luck!

I would also worry about the leak a little bit. That's not normal. I wouldn't worry about the year or the mileage, as long as it comes with full service history and you get a solid PPI. Other than that, I'd be worried. Also, FWIW - all Cayennes have plastic coolant lines, including the new 2011 models. By the time a Cayenne has 100K miles on the clock, it's very possible that they have been changed to the aluminum lines. If you have a full service history, you'll know.

Rolled 97K miles last week. Still going strong.

I think you have to decide what you are looking for first - do you want a cab or a coupe? Would you consider a targa? Do you want a C2 or a C4, or perhaps a C4S? Manual or tiptronic? Whatever you choose, make sure you buy one that has a well documented service history, and get a good pre-purchase inspection.

My 2002 C4S has been my daily driver for several years, and it is one of the most reliable vehicles I've ever owned. When they do break, it's not cheap to fix, as you pointed out. However, the added expense is worth it to me. I had my rear main seal and my intermediate shaft seal updated at about 74,000 miles, and my car doesn't leak a drop.

Personally, I fell in love with the look of the C4S coupe when I was shopping. This limited my search to 2002 - 2005 vehicles. I bought mine from a private party in San Bernardino, CA and drove it home. I've currently got about 97,000 miles on it, and I drive it rain or shine. Snow too.

Enjoy the process. Shopping for a 911 is an journey that very few people experience.

I had the slow clock problem for a few months before my battery failed. Battery replacement took care of it.

I've heard good things about Gbox in Colorado. You might look them up on the web and do a little research.

I owned an Alfa Romeo Spider in the 70s... Now THAT was unreliable and expensive!

My 996 has been a great car. It has over 95,000 miles on it and it's still going strong.

I think that if you consider any car an "investment", then you will lose. All cars will lose value, and all cars will breakdown. You have to consider what you want out of a car when you purchase it. Do you want a fuel efficient econo-box? Do you want a truck? Do you want a sports car? Each has tradeoffs. With any high performance sports car, including Porsches, one tradeoff is that it is expensive to fix. It may very well not last for 200K miles, but think of all the rewards you get during the time you have it. For me, it's worth the risk. Even if I suffer engine failure, I will consider this ownership experience to be positive, and to be "worth it".

FWIW - my son's $4,000 Volvo recently needed $1,800 worth of engine, suspension and brake work. This amounted to 45% of the car's value. Does that mean I should just scrap the car and move on? Of course not. I got it fixed, and he's back on the road. I didn't base the decision on the value of the car in the marketplace, but rather on the value of the car to me and to my son.

That is great news.

Generally when people talk about a "wobble" in Cayennes, it's the cardan shaft, not the wheels or tires. Have you considered this possibility, or are you certain that it is coming from the wheels or tires?

I agree with previous comments - this sounds like a battery. Cayennes do odd things when the battery goes bad.

My experience with Porsches is that they give you a few warnings, like the odd behavior. Then they leave you stranded with a totally dead battery. I've had this happen in the Cayenne and the 911.

I'd heed the warning signs!

I have a set of replica wheels that I use for my winter tires. There are many grades of replica wheel. There are many available that are made in Italy and are very high quality. They tend to be a little more expensive - generally $1,200 or more for a set of four. This is the option that I chose. There are also replicas that are made in China that generally run around $600 for a set of four. They are all over ebay. I've heard of several cases of these cheaper wheels being very easily damaged on potholes, curbs, etc. So... be careful. Remember - you get what you pay for.

tie rod would be my guess. Had a similar strangish clunk/squeek type of noise that got worse with heat.

+1

I have the same issue right now.

Mine took about a week, but I chose the ceramic coated option.

I put dedicated snow tires and wheels on my C4S, and that's what I would recommend. All-season tires are always a compromise - they aren't ideal in any conditions, but they can get through most conditions.

If you are really set on all-season tires, I've used Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S tires in the past on another vehcile and been pretty happy with them. They replaced a set of Pirelli P-Zero Rosso summer tires, and while the difference was noticable on highway on-ramps, it wasn't bad. It was a good compromise for a daily driver.

+2 for Fister Sport Exhaust. I love mine.

Ask your dealer for a recommendation.

I had the wheels on my C4S refinished for $50 each by a mobile refinisher. He brought a trailer to my house with a full down draft painting station. He got all four of them done in about 1-1/2 hours, and they look great. Here are before and after photos of my left front wheel.

I agree - it's a great mod. I love mine.

I often wonder why people do stick an "S" on their car when it clearly isn't. I've seen several photos posted online with this and I just don't get it.

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I also get the occasional grind, which I believe is a synchro issue. I find that if I'm careful, I rarely get any grinding at all. Rev matching can help with this, but not always. I find that if I "baby" it a little between first and second gear, it almost never grinds. It happens more often downshifting between 3rd and 2nd. It's even more difficult if I skip 3rd and go from 4th to 2nd. I've learned to manage it pretty well, but I believe that ultimately I'll have to have my transmission rebuilt and have this issue addressed. No rush, but that's the way I believe it's headed.