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salayc

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Posts posted by salayc

  1. If you remove the trim under the glove box, you will find the drain near the fire wall.

    Thanks, found it by peeling back the carpet. Pulled it out and stuck it back in the hole and now it drains. I guess it's a dedicated drain.

    f^&%*ing dealer said they wouldn't fix it unless I had 30k service done there because they claim they clean drains as part of their service.

    Not only did the drain not need cleaning (it seemed to be pinched under the carpet backing) there's no way they clean a dedicated drain as part of service.

  2. :( drove car again today round the block just to see if fault still there and yep car starts fine idles okay even get water coming out drop at a time from exaust

    any way drove car round block 3 times third time the car started slipping by slipping i mean when you press the throttle the car revs up accordingly but no drive anyway a engine light has come on now so will call out local guy tommoz to give me some proper error codes and will let evryone know what they are

    some one suggested a switch on the gearbox could be faulty ??

    forgot to mention when car looses drive if i switch car off and on again hey presto drive comes back along with the cel

    In gears 1-2 you are using the torque converter which is a fluid coupling. If your fluid is low, the torque converter will slip.

    In 3-5 I believe you are in direct drive i.e. the torque converter is not used.

    Shifting of an automatic transmission also requires vacuum which may explain your CEL.

  3. Okay, this would have been a stupid question about a year ago. But now that I am paying $4.20/gallon for gas I thought I would go ahead and see what the response will be. Previously, I have had an Acura CL and BMW 328. On both cars I put cold air intakes and cat back exhaust. Each of these modifications netted me about 2 more mpg. For example on my daily, mostly wide open, highway drive of 42 miles each way I initially got 25 mpg in the BMW. Intake got me into 27 mpg. Adding the exhaust boosted that to 29 mpg. These were consistent numbers for my commute. Interestingly when I changed tires to an aggressive "chevron" pattern BG Goodrich F1 I lost 2 mpg. So my question goes out to those who have done these modifications. Do you notice a consistent increase in mpg? I know Izzy has posted on a muffler bypass pipe for $200. If it would net me a mile or so more per gallon that could add up quickly for me. By the way I pretty consistently get 22.5 mpg. I am not sure if the high flow factory replacement filters would gain much but the cold air kit from Evo Motorsport might. Although, both my Acura and BMW had fairly restrictive flow paths for the incoming air. The Porsche does not seem to be (2000 996 C2 Tiptronic with 95k miles).

    Thanks for all input.

    How did you determine you gained 2mpg with the previous mods?

    Unless you have a banana in the tailpipe, I don't think you will gain anything from a muffler mod.

  4. I took my '99 996 Cab in for the annual service last week and they found some oil in the coolant. Pressure test was fine, so looks to be either a head gasket or more likely the infamous porous block issue. The car has never been tracked, always serviced on schedule at Porsche dealers, so needless to say I am more than irritated that an engine with 49K miles potentially has this problem.

    The only relative good news is that I do have an aftermarket warranty on it. Hopefully they will cover whatever needs to be done, but worse case I was wondering what happens when you have a porous block? I

    understand the basic engine mechanics and how the oil seeps into the coolant, but as long as the seeping is slow and I keep sufficient oil in the engine and flush the coolant to keep the oil out and the cooling properties functioning, is there anything else that would cause the engine to break down? The car has never consumed any oil, so it looks like we noticed it at the onset. From reading other posts many people experience catastrophic failure, but most likely because either the oil had coolant in it and caused it to get frothy and not properly lubricate the engine or the coolant had so much oil that it led to overheating.

    Is there something more I am missing?

    If you have oil in the coolant, you have a problem and you need someone to check it out right away.. You could have a cracked head, a cracked block, or a blown head gasket.

  5. Thanks for your support. Actually, I did talk to the manager, the salesman, and emailed the company manager. They in turn contacted the regional Porsche managers. All are taking the company line that I have not reached the magic limit yet. Hey, it runs great, have over a year on CPO, so when it gets worse they will look at it. Seems kind of odd, however. I think the financial problems have hit everyone. My past experience with high-end dealers was more flexible. To go back to my original post, I have a request in to pre-emptively try an upgraded Porsche oil separator (at a shared expense). I'll let you know later what happens. Still open to other suggestions, however.

    Don't offer to pay for a new oil separator if it doesn't need one. Most shops have a diagnose fee. At Porsche Downtown LA it's $185. I would offer to pay that at the most and if it turns out the separator is bad, they should have no problem replacing it under warranty. At that point you could smugly ask for your diagnostic fee back if you are so inclined.

  6. Thanks for the suggestions. it's a 6 speed, I got it CPO with about 22K on it.

    I too have looked at the various sites for oil use, and there are some around that consume oil--just not to the amount I have at the moment.

    Frankly, I am on CPO and the dealer will not do anything until the magic oil consumption number is reached. So if it costs them more later then so be it.

    In the meantime, if a change/upgrade to the separator helps, I will fund that myself.

    Given the fact it is under warranty, I do not want to start digging around by myself (as tempting as it might be) in case it might invalidate the warranty.

    I would, however, like suggestion as to what I might have a mechanic check and repair, depending on how much it costs. Still seems a little silly that I should wait until it gets worse, but "thems the rules" I guess.

    Take it somewhere that can check the oil separator. There is an easy non invasive test with an instrument that is inserted into the filler neck. Don't ask me what it is, but it can find fault with the separator and I have seen it used. Where are you located? Maybe someone can suggest a mechanic to check it out.

    Thanks for the great suggestion--I am in the area of St. Paul/Minneapolis MN. I can check around for this, but if anyone has a suggested shop please let me know.

    Post a request for an indy in your area over at Rennlist. Or, perhaps call around if there is another Porsche dealer and see if they'll check it out. I would have a talk with a manager at your dealer though. There's no reason they shouldn't check out your car especially if you bought it from them. Perhaps tell them your car was blowing a lot of smoke from the tailpipes...

  7. Thanks for the suggestions. it's a 6 speed, I got it CPO with about 22K on it.

    I too have looked at the various sites for oil use, and there are some around that consume oil--just not to the amount I have at the moment.

    Frankly, I am on CPO and the dealer will not do anything until the magic oil consumption number is reached. So if it costs them more later then so be it.

    In the meantime, if a change/upgrade to the separator helps, I will fund that myself.

    Given the fact it is under warranty, I do not want to start digging around by myself (as tempting as it might be) in case it might invalidate the warranty.

    I would, however, like suggestion as to what I might have a mechanic check and repair, depending on how much it costs. Still seems a little silly that I should wait until it gets worse, but "thems the rules" I guess.

    Take it somewhere that can check the oil separator. There is an easy non invasive test with an instrument that is inserted into the filler neck. Don't ask me what it is, but it can find fault with the separator and I have seen it used. Where are you located? Maybe someone can suggest a mechanic to check it out.

  8. post-23311-1210217521_thumb.jpgReplaced my leaking spark plug tubes this week and found a flaw in the install from the factory. The new o-rings should take care of most of these types of problems but this does show that even the factory makes simple mistakes. I guess this is why Porsche is adamant about "special lube" to be used when installing new tubes. Lesson: lube the o-rings, push straight when installing.
  9. is there someone how can make SEALS ?

    Take a look at these:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911...sspagenameZWDVW

    not good :( but thank you very much ! :cheers:

    You might try vertexauto.com. They have rebuilt transmissions so I would assume parts. I am in a similar situation in that I was told if the torque converter seal goes, the input shaft bearing is possibly siezed which would require a new transmission. I will find out today.

  10. hi i have 04 C4S with navigation and radio in the same unit . i removed the CD storage tray and face plate and made a carbon fiber face to fit the XM unit into but i can't find anything on how to remove the nav/radio unit .i have to get in their to unplug the ant . i looked in the DIY section but no luck i don't want to just start prying at things .anybody know of a link on how to remove radio ,i tried the search but could'nt find anything

    Is the '04 Becker? You can get radio removal tools directly from them or, I purchased mine on Ebay for $5.

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