honda_nos

The whole top adjustment thing is a PITA. I've been adjusting that rod with the 10mm bolt on and off for months. The whole non-linear things makes it frustration. Now I have it very close to the strikers mating so I am leaving it alone for now.

mikes box = genius!

Thanks a million, your suggestion of pulling the whole frame back worked like a charm! I appreciate you taking the time to write an answer, I thought I was hooped for a while!

When I did this a few months ago, I removed a piece of black rubber/foamy piece that fits between the coolant pipes and hugs the tunnel down the center. I didn't have to loosen the brackets at all though the ground was a pain (I got it off with my fingers).

BTW: good job on the success

DONE!!!

After I removed the brakets and snapped the pipes out of their holders I was able to wiggle the lines out. Out of everything I've done, this was, by far the toughest one. I guess it seemed this tough because my expectations were completely different. I was expecting the fuel filter replacement to be an easy job...

In any event - it's all done now.

Thank You all for guiding me through it!

azzar0.

Maurice, sorry missed this question earlier, yes, it is one of the same. I need to glue the plastic rivets in because every now and then it pops out.

In regards to the rivets you'll find that the Robbin's top has a "new" elastic scrap system in which you are supposed to push the rivet through the elastic and then into the factory plastic arm piece.

I had a hard time getting them to stay in so I'll likely hot glue the rivets into place this weekend. You should see what I mean when you do the job.

Honda:

Is the "new" Robbins elastic strap system similar to the original system for the early 986's where there was a 5" long elastic strap that had a plastic rivet going through its end before it was pressed into one of the nubs of the clamping rail?

There is a photo of the original elastic strings (labeled #3) in post #8 of the "jimyboyle" thread, here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry94596

I'm wondering if Robbins put this in to compensate for the Porsche "return" to the shorter sliders, as described by jimyboyle at the end of that same thread?

Regards, Maurice.

Not sure, but I can confirm that when I got the seat new from dealership, two longer bolts were installed. sorry.

I recently purchased a used child car seat and airbag deactivation bar. I noticed on the TSB for the installation that the bar is attached with 2 M10 x 35 Torx bolts that are supposed to be included in the kit. Needless to say, mine came with no bolts. Are these something that every dealer has on hand or am I going to have to find some to get this installed?

guys,

when you move the climate control down do you need wire extension? or can you make the factory wires stretch enough?

I have a 99 Box Tip non S.

Thanks, Kevin

::BUMP::

"Do you have any pics of this lexan enclosure? "

- or some instructional advice? I have two ssm8's sitting here and trying to figure out how to mount them.

Bad link, got another?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-CONVERS...-CAYMAN-BOXSTER.

Sorry about the last post,forgot to include the link.

Does anyone know anything about this plug and play upgrade?

zlawman;2001 2.7 seal grey boxster no mods yet. Purchased in November 2007 and sent staight to garage for the winter.

I just did this mod last night, didn't expect more power just wanted a little more sound for my ears :)

In terms of sound, I liked the results, I don't really see water being too much of an issue given the actual setup, but then again, I wouldn't stand there and run the garden hose on the vent forever either.

As far as the uninstallation of the snorkel, I'd recommend that you pull up and down because of the orientation of the two locking tabs. I actually broke the top one on the way out. But then again, I really don't plan on ever putting it back for it isn't an issue. (usually these things bother me, but I've learned that a 10 year old car can't really be perfect)

Getting the vent off the ring proved to be hard for me this time. (For one, I couldn't see where the tabs were (4). I consulted my Bentley manual but it didn't have a good picture and only talked about "unclipping" the two clips on the back (as opposed to the ones up front, closer to front of car).

I ordered a new vent from Sunset and will replace that shorly as I snapped one of the vent bars. no biggie.

In regards to the rivets you'll find that the Robbin's top has a "new" elastic scrap system in which you are supposed to push the rivet through the elastic and then into the factory plastic arm piece.

I had a hard time getting them to stay in so I'll likely hot glue the rivets into place this weekend. You should see what I mean when you do the job.

Thanks for the reply. I have ordered 2 Sliders and 2 Clamping Rails from the dealership and they will be arriving sometime next week.

I was going to purchase the Convertible Kit which was about CAD $90.00 (for foam seals) but the dealer didn't seem to know what is included in the kit.

I explained to them what it is according to your post (for flapping noise) and they didn't seem to agree with that. They said the kit could be for

rips and tears on the canvas. I have about a weak to make my own foam seals using Jimboyle's thread so I will keep you posted.

Thank you for everything again Maurice.

Sean

I have a 99 986 Tip and just did the polybelt and fuel filter last weekend at 70k. The belt was $+- 30 and took all of 15 minutes to do (this was my first time, can likely do it faster next time). The fuel filter was a little bit more of a pain but got in done in less than 1 hour.

For what it is worth, cheap insurance :)

Tool Pants, thanks, I just realized that I only searched the DIY forum and not this one. I appreciate it!

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...pic=149&hl=

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=5818&hl=

Guys,

Any advice on the replacement of the spark plug tubes? not the ones that connect the coil to the plug but the one that seals the valve covers. I have a leak on each bank. I have the tubes and the 12 sesls and the bentley book looks straight forward.

Anyone done this? thanks, honda_nos

this looks great, I was thinking about something similar. I didn't see the equalizer pipe. Also, how did you handle the step up in pipe size?

Thanks! honda_nos

I put on a Robbin's Glass top on my 99TIP and am loving it. I don't mind too much the smaller "service" area because the top does not go into full service mode.

Thank you so much Maurice.

I feel more motivation, because of especially the last sentence.

I've been reading Mr. Mike Focke's DIY article couple of times and I can't wait to try this DIY.

Only thing I am worrying about is the long-term glass separation due to glue failure.

What is your opinion on that issue Maurice?

Sean:

The glass separation has been a problem with a number of the aftermarket glass-windowed tops, and I am not sure which one had more of a problem, GAHH or Robbins. From what I have read, it was more of a problem with the earlier production and they may have resolved or ameliorated it.

Your best bet is to do a search on this forum and read all the threads you can find with that topic. I know that there were some threads that mentioned that the manufacturers made good on sending new tops, but this is probably not a job you want to do twice.

I would also call the vendor and ask them about this issue specifically and what they would do if the glass indeed separates.

While you are reading through those threads, you will also find out more information about some of the shortcomings of the glass windowed tops: smaller window, more restricted access to the engine compartment, etc...

For most people having a glass window rather than a vinyl window outweighs any disadvantages that may exist.

Regards, Maurice.

I had the same problem. on one, i got it with a screw. On the other, I drilled it out carefully.

Thanks - inserting a screw makes sense. I'll do it on Saturday and see how it works.

Thanks tool pants, sorry, do you have a picture or a diagram of which push rod you are referring too?

For small adjustments you turn the plastic joint on the end of the push rod.

Ok, so i saw in the other thread what it looks like. But I am still not sure if this will help me get the top properly aligned. I've moved the actual push rod from longest to shortest and a lot of different places in between...

So after cleaning the MAF, I reset the ECU and cleared code P1123. Two days no CEL free now!

Guys,

I installed my Robbins Glass Top about 3 months ago on my 99TIP. Thanks to Maurice's help, I was able to get the top on no problem (after 10 hrs :)).. So now my problem is the following. I know that there are two 10mm screws that I can loosen to adjust the length of the arms off the transmission. But after hours of aligning, I can't seem to get boths front striker "striking" into the front windsheild "receivers" at the same time.

I seem to be able to get one side then the other and I am trying to adjust in small increments... One side always ends up too high to strike. Is there a procedure for this? Also, the adjustment doesn't seem linear, by that I mean, it isn't like lengthening the arm will aim the striker lower, there seems to be a magic point in which lengthening the arm will bring the striker higher again...

Thanks, honda_nos

Back in my tire shop days, I'll taken off lock nuts with a hammer and socket many times. I would be very careful not to end up smacking your wheel. There actually are sockets you can buy for this exact purpose. We had SnapOn ones in the shop, you might be able to get similar tools from other brands.

Then I don't know why your light is on. You need to have the fault code(s) read out to see why it is on.

On your missing wheel lock key, Loren gave you the best answer.

Pounding on a socket with a sledge hammer is often repeated on car message boards, but I do not know anyone who has actually done it on a Boxster.

So you can be the first.

I have a 24 and 22 mm 12 point sockets in my tool chest, and an extra locking wheel bolt. So I checked the size.

24 mm is too large. The 22 mm socket seems just a bit too small. I do not have a 23 mm socket to check the fit.

I would say you need a 22 or 23 mm socket, 12 points. Buy a cheap one made of soft metal. You do not want the socket to split as you pound on it. Depending on your luck the socket may not last long enought to do all 4 locking wheel bolts.

Take lots of pictures and drink lots of beer, as I would like to see a Boxster owner actually do this. There are tools designed for this purpose, usually used with an impact wrench, but I would like to see someone try to do it the old fashioned way, maybe.

This looks like a cool item. If you go ahead with it. Please send some information about it.

Lloyd in the UK put one in a few months ago. http://www.boxa.net/forum/index.php?showto...mp;#entry335783

BTW I also have a Robbin's glass top so I had little room to work as well, ended up leaning on the trunk lid most of the time.

I also cleaned my MAF last night and too have never opened the engine compartment (only had car less than 4 months). I had no problems with the job and the engine does run way smoother and more powerful. I actually break the backend loose last night (have tried before to no success). I have a 99 Tip.

zman1858, not to rain on your parade, but the improvement may be short lived. You might still need to replace the MAF. The other issue is why it is getting dirty? Do you have a high flow air filter?

I also cleaned my MAF last night and too have never opened the engine compartment (only had car less than 4 months). I had no problems with the job and the engine does run way smoother and more powerful. I actually break the backend loose last night (have tried before to no success). I have a 99 Tip.

zman1858, not to rain on your parade, but the improvement may be short lived. You might still need to replace the MAF. The other issue is why it is getting dirty? Do you have a high flow air filter?

When you revert back to the stock bulbs (bypassing the kit) do you still have the oil/battery light problem?

I just installed my new HID conversion kit and it looks outstanding! Now I am having some electrical issues. My oil and battery light come on, has anyone else had this problem? Please help, it's driving me nuts :)

Thanks,

We need more info.

What year Boxster?

Which kit did you buy?

I have a 2001 Boxster. I bought the kit off of Ebay, i'm not sure the brand.

Kit included:

- H7 bulb (6000k)

- Balast

- install brackets

I read somewhere on this forum that someone had the same issue as me but there was no follow up post as to what the resolution was. Thanks!

So I finally had time to tackle the front "looseness" issue and following Maurice's advice I was able to make the fit a whole lot better. However, given the temp has been around 30-40 lately, I didn't get such a good bond with my contact glue. It will do for now though, until summer time. When it gets warmer, I'll try to tighten it up again. Thanks guys!

nice work! Did you go the work yourself? You mentioned that you changed the speakers in the cabin as well, were the door speakers a pain to install given the door side airbags? thanks

I have a 1999 Boxster tip with 68k I only get about 18.5 MPG (mix city/hw)

Help.

2000 Boxster S manuel with 70,000 miles.

Steady freeway driving 67 mph without traffic. I could only getting 23.5 mpg.

Is my car something wrong?