honda_nos

wow, heated discussion on this thread. I'll throw in my thoughts as well. I recently got the P Zero Neros 225-45-18 fronts and 265-35-18 rears and are reasonably pleased. I didn't go for the N rating (Rossos) because I felt the Neros were good enough tires.

I am sure there are n number of tests that need to pass to have the N rating but really, I drive my Boxster up to highway speeds at most and may periodically autocross it during summer. I didn't want to spend the extra $500 on the Rosso's. I spent that money on an HID conversion kit from Vertex and got a alignment. For what its worth seeing better due to the HIDs is a better safety bet for me.

I live in rainy Seattle and so far no problems on the Neros. They are decent quiet (I can really hear the engine tone now) and I haven't had issues with hydroplaning. I got the M+S and for really snowy days I take my AWD with snow tires. The Boxster is my daily driver and the PNeros were just the ticket...

I love my retrofit kit from vertexauto. The fit and finish was great and even provided a factory light back plate which was predrilled. the difference is phenomenal. My previous car was a 04 STI so I am used to the HIDs, I live in Seattle and for winter months like now where it is dark when you go to work and dark when you come home, the difference is very significant.

let me know if anyone has any questions about the vertex kit.

honda_nos

I will chime in on this topic since I've driven my 986 w/ a Xenon retrofit for awhile now.

Yes,visibility is GREATLY increased.

The cut off isn't great for installing xenons in standard h7 assemblies. I notice that the passenger side light pattern shoots slightly upwards and every once and awhile I can see inside the car in front of me at stop lights. :P The Litronics have a projector that helps the xenon light prevent such a thing from happening.

All-in-all I LOVE the difference. I recommend them since the lowest I've seen LItronics for is $1.7k. $100-150 for a retrofit kit are a steal compared to Litronics.

Just got Pirelli PNeros this weeks for my 18" Twists on a MY99 Boxster. So far they are pretty quiet. For the first time I am able to hear the engine note when cruising.

So far so good!

Kevin

I agree rs! technology has grown so rapidly diff btw products is just splitting hairs. 986- She is loud period with the top on or off which I don't mind it at all.

Hey roadster supposed to be. If I want really quiet , I drive my Lexus but handles like a grandma,,,

Looking at numbers on a datasheet can be some what inaccurate if the difference between products is just splitting hairs. Saying a product is #10 doesn't mean much if number #10 is still quite. I'm going to stick with my answer of they are just fine and quite tires with the top down and highway speeds.

I know what noisy tires are! I have some all season, snow and LT on my vehicles right now and the Kumos sound like a baby sleeping to me!

Yea your advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Maurice, thank you! That is indeed what I needed to do. Five minutes resolved the latching issue!!!

Honda:

Good job! Let's hope Will has the same success.

If you are up to tackling the front bulges at the front corners, let me know and I'll give you a procedure that will probably solve or ameliorate the problem.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice, thank you! That is indeed what I needed to do. Five minutes resolved the latching issue!!!

Another option is to go ahead and use bigger screws in the original expanding squares.

You should be able to find the expanding nylon/plastic license plate anchor nuts at any auto parts store. My stock bracket became loose and the holes in the bumper cover were enlarged so I found some slightly larger generic square license plate nuts at Pep Boys. I ended up ditching the entire stock bracket and mounting My plate directly to the bumper by drilling new holes in my plate. This located the plate lower and more flush to the bumper.

Aron in Toronto

I have the same top on the same year 99. There is a little metal "finger" that bolts into the arm which holds the top at a position so that it slides into the guide. I don't have a picture at the moment but if that piece is not in, it will not go into the guide. I can take some pictures for you if you need.

For me, I have the following issues

- the front of the top (along the windshield, there is two plastic guides on the canvas, they are too wide for the slots in the top (metal piece)

- I have the top set too tight, front of top will not touch the windshield, I have to pull on it. I am thinkinig I can fix that by resetting the back rail (along the trunk cover) looser

- I am not sure how to get the front corners to not bulge

- there are a few small rinkles (sp?)

I haven't had time to work on these issues yet. I needed to get the top on because the previous was leaking slightly. I'm hoping to get to these issues soon.

Let me know if this doesn't make sense

Hi Guys,

Has anyone had problems with the Robbins top alignment when putting up the top? I installed the Robbins top on a 1999 Boxster (with glass window). When I put the top up sometimes it doesn't stay inside the guides above the side windows. The tensioning straps are as tight as I can make them. It only happens when the top has been down for at least 15-20 minutes. If you cycle it up and down in aligns most of the time. I can't see anyway to make it align any differently. There is a note on the instructions from Robbins that they are not liable for any problems with this as it is a known fault with the boxster. I'm seriously regretting changing the top because if I have to fiddle with it for 15 minutes every time I put it up I'll end up never putting the top down. If I can't get this sorted I'm seriously considering changing back to the old top. Putting the top up and down was just a matter of pushing a button. This has been an expensive and troublesome effort to improve the car.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Cheers,

Will

Wow, thanks so much for extending your help. What is this clamping rails that you speak of. PN or picture? I can drop by and get it this Friday before I start it on Saturday. Thanks again!!!

I just ordered a Robbins Top on ebay for $650. I decided to stay with black and have the smaller glass window option. I know that the top will not stay in "service mode" by itself anymore so I will try and order the strap that Robbins makes to keep the top in service mode (PN 3162 STRAP).

I went for the glass because of better visibility but also because I can tint it to match my side windows which I tinted last weekend. Hope that helps.

Honda:

Check out Mike Focke's Boxster Pages for excellent DIY instructions on replacing the top, with loads of photos at: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/replacingthetop-adiy

So that you don't get delayed once you start, be sure to buy the two clamping rails ahead of time. The plastic ears into which the little black pins push into almost always break when taking them apart. They're relatively cheap (about $12.00 each) and you can always return them if you don't break the original ones.

If you run into any roadblocks, shoot me a PM, or post here and I'll provide you with any help I can.

Regards, Maurice.

I just ordered a Robbins Top on ebay for $650. I decided to stay with black and have the smaller glass window option. I know that the top will not stay in "service mode" by itself anymore so I will try and order the strap that Robbins makes to keep the top in service mode (PN 3162 STRAP).

I went for the glass because of better visibility but also because I can tint it to match my side windows which I tinted last weekend. Hope that helps.