Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

SNaray8442

Members
  • Posts

    110
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SNaray8442

  1. That cable includes a ground loop isolator which eliminates alternator whine that you will surely experience with the cable from discountstereo. Also includes radio keys. After factoring in radio keys and shipping, Euclid's kit is better and cheaper.
  2. Thanks for the replies everybody! It's a coupe. I'll check the brake switch on the pedal. I'll start tracing wires from C3. The other systems on C3 (locking system, power mirrors, etc) all work flawlessly. It's very unlikely that any of the interior got wet.
  3. I just went through and made sure all of the fuses are the correct values, they are. B4 was blown, engine fan? I physically pulled every fuse out and tested them, B4 was the only one blown. B4 does not pop after it was replaced. No interior lights/glovebox/etc. No brake lights (but they do illuminate with headlights). All other systems operational.
  4. Like I said, C3 was melted but still allowing current. I replaced it and still no interior lights. B7 is fine. Any other ideas for culprits?
  5. 2002 911 C2 Coupe My brake lights and interior lights have stopped working... Rear lights light up red with headlights on but don't switch on to the bright red for braking. Also interior lighting will not come on in any configuration. Any ideas? I checked my fuses today and fuse C-3 was completely melted. The plastic was, it wasn't blown though... weird.
  6. Mice aren't such a problem down here in the South but snakes sure are. We employ half a dozen "outside cats" at any given time for this purpose.
  7. Turned out to be the oil separator that was creating a massive vacuum leak
  8. When I'm accelerating under normal load my car seems like it hesitates slightly. It doesnt miss at all, it's just not a smooth distribution of power. I don't have any codes showing up. Any ideas? 2002 911 C2 6sp
  9. How to install iPorsche - Porsche iPod integration system Sorry, folks this author has removed the external source for the images in this DIY Tutorial. I will leave the text here as it may help some people. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Things you'll need: 1 iPorsche kit 1 T20 Torx Screwdriver ~30 minutes of your time Also, make sure you know your radio code. First, take the radio removal keys and insert them into the slots on your head unit until you hear a click. The keys are labeled L and R. Onc Author SNaray8442 Category Carrera (996) - Mods Submitted 09/09/2008 03:02 PM Updated 09/09/2013 09:13 PM
  10. Sorry, folks this author has removed the external source for the images in this DIY Tutorial. I will leave the text here as it may help some people. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Things you'll need: 1 iPorsche kit 1 T20 Torx Screwdriver ~30 minutes of your time Also, make sure you know your radio code. First, take the radio removal keys and insert them into the slots on your head unit until you hear a click. The keys are labeled L and R. Once they are locked in place, grab each one and gently pull the head unit out toward the rear of the car. Continue to slide the head unit all the way out. Remove the connections at the rear of the head unit and set it aside. Now remove the center console's side covers. You do this by first grabbing the rear of the panel and pulling out. The clips should pop out. Do this for both sides and set the pieces aside. With both side panels removed, now remove the cubby holders/tape/CD holder. You do this by firmly grasping and pulling straight out. First do the top one, then the bottom. If you have a tape or CD holder, the process is the same. Now remove the "batwing". You do this bu firmly grasping it and pulling straight out. You won't break anything, don't worry. Remove the carpeted covers. You do this by, once again, grasping the rear edge and pulling outward, away from the center console. Do this for both driver and passenger side. With all of the panels, now get your T20 Torx Screwdriver or bit. Remove 2 screws on each side of the cage, a total of 4. Once you've removed all 4 screws the cage will be free. gently pull out and up towards the rear of the car. Now you're ready for the installation. Take your iPorsche device in hand. Remove the paper from the double-sided tape and mount the ground loop isolator as shown (with the blue connector towards the back). Route the blue connector up, through the hole behind here, into the radio compartment. Now, on the driver's side of the console you should find a telephone plug. It may be tucked under the carpet, it will look like this: Collect the two red pinch-connectors from your kit. Slide the first one around the GREEN/BLACK wire and place the red wire from your iPorsche into the butted end of the connector. Fold over the plastic tab and pinch it in to place. You may use a pair of pliers here if you wish. Do the same with the BROWN wire and the black wire from your kit. Time to start buttoning things back together. To avoid clutter I stuffed the extra wire under the center console, just under this bracket. I also routed my iPod connector out through this hole. If you don't want your iPod in your cubby you can also route the iPod wire into your glove bux, center console or to the ash tray. Those options are not included in this tutorial but I'd be happy to help if you need. Now tuck the power wires back under the carpet on the driver's side like so. Slide the cage back into position, make sure you're careful about the cages bottom bracket close to the iPod cable, you don't want to pinch it off. Take your T20 Torx again and replace all 4 screws through the cage into the red fasteners. Replace the rear carpet panels on the rear of the cage. Then replace the "wings" on the side of the cage. First put the front edge on then rotate the rear around and snap it in to place. Do this on both sides. Press the batwing and cubbies back in to place. Start with the batwing and move up.
  11. I was recently searching for a way to connect my iPod directly to the stereo in my '02 911 and I remembered a contact I've got in China. I called him up and I can put in an order to have several units made but I wanted to make sure there's a need for them here first. Basically it'd be a combination of an Aux-input (for at least 96-02), a noise filter (to eliminate alternator whine) and a power connection on one end (all hidden behind the dash) with a normal looking iPod connection on the other end. So what you'd get is a device that both charges your ipod and plays music directly through the auxiliary input of your head unit. The installation would be simple and I would be able to include everything that you'd need to install it, including radio keys and detailed instructions. Installation would not require any cutting/modification of your vehicle or it's wiring harnesses. Right now the price is looking to be around $60 Would many of you guys be interested? If I can get some interest I'll go ahead and have the first batch ordered and shipped over so I can supply you guys with pictures.
  12. $248.21 in parts from the dealer, I'm having it towed there tomorrow where they'll finish the programming and whatnot.
  13. Roger Beasley Porsche told me that the new key would run $330. I asked them if I could just bring in a key that I bought elsewhere with the head/blank and he said no. He said that the key's got to be cut by Porsche because they cut it with a laser. He also said that I'd need to have the car towed to the dealership for programming. Should I just tow them my car and order sunset's key anyway? Thanks guys
  14. Will the Carrera GT keyhead's transmitter work with my '99 996? Thanks
  15. I lost my keys... <_< The dealership should be able to cut a new key given the VIN, right? How much is this gonna set me back?
  16. My '99 911 is throwing P1124 and P1126 repeatedly. I've hooked it up to a smoke machine and checked for leaks, nothing. I've replaced the oil cap, didn't help. I've inspected for exhaust leaks, couldn't find anything. Does anyone have any more suggestions as to what I should try? I'd hate to take it to a shop that'd charge $95 an hour when my mechanical skills are fairly competent. Thanks
  17. That or just use your middle finger and yell :censored: obscenities. :lol:
  18. I've got to pull body panels to replace the horns? Eek!
  19. I replaced the bucket that the bushings are installed in, thus I have brand new bushings.
  20. My horns first started to honk when I would hit a bump, then they started to honk when I'd turn the wheel. Now they won't honk at all when I hit the horn. The car does chirp when I lock the doors and one is ajar. I've replaced the steering wheel bucket and the fuse looks good. Any ideas where to troubleshoot next?
  21. Yes, the round black assembly that bolts on to the 4-post stalk with 2 screws. When it rotates it makes a noise like metal grinding on plastic. I do not have any related codes or airbag lights.
  22. I taped it and didn't allow it to move while I was installing the new stalk. The male part of the spring assembly fits snugly into the female hole in the new 4-post stalk. What part of it could I grease? It seems like a sealed unit. The "squeaking" sounds like if you were to twist a slinky, hard to describe. A sprung metallic sound.
  23. I recently did the 4-stalk install, carefully following the instructions. Ever since then my airbag spring has been very noisy and squeaks every time I turn the wheel. Any ideas what went wrong and how I can get this thing to be quiet again? Thanks!
  24. Congrats! Could you post a DIY how to make a baby? I've been itching to try it out.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.