Danyol

Anything else happen leading up to this (flooding, rain ect)?

Check the big harness connectors on the right of the engine bay, re-seat them after making sure all of the pins look good. Check the ECU ground. I'm thinking the sensor is a symptom not the cause. 

If it's definitely the same wire, it is either open circuit or (less likely) the ground is not a good one.

Fluid transfer and overflow to the front reservoir is typically a slave cylinder issue. 

Ok, I have 2003 with PCCBs.

Yes the dust buildup will make them noisy, a wash often helps. Take a look at my brake squeal DIY on another contributor. 

On the drag, remember the car is AWD, the 2 front wheels are connected through a differential, you turn one wheel the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction. Much more inertia and "drag"

Good grief guys, $6 for a 10 mm o-ring  :huh:

Anything special about it? I've reused them in the past, contemplated just using a plain nitrile ring, is it viton or some other exotic?

Guys, there is another option that may fit some, this is listed as a "race" tire but I understand from a couple of local turbo guys it is good in the wet and wearing very well (combination of road and many track days, still lots of tread), the Federal 595 RS Racing tire,

Although the largest rear tire is a 285/30-18, with many tires the actual physical size is often different between manufacturers I can confirm having seen the tire, even though it's listed as a "285",  it is closer in size to a 305 in Hankook (prob. around 300). They are available online but usually on back order, you need to plan ahead. A a full set < price of 2 PS2s

Looks like you could make a "tab" onto the light out of epoxy, then drill for the screws. This could be colored and shaped the same as the original.

I ended up purchasing Kevin's (UMW) logging platform to get the whole data set at over 50 samples a second.

When I originally used the Durametric for logging (V6) I was able to log 6 - 7 different parameters during test drives, It appeared to be achieving around 8 samples a second.

I have an older (Centrino dual core) laptop running XP, but I have upgraded the hard drive to SSD which I think helps (I'm running an Intel SSD).

Guys,

Thankyou!

- The gas cap has been replaced a couple of times

- Trying to follow DME diagnotic procedure on leak checking but have no diagram.

- The car has spent time at an experienced Pcar shop, exercised all the system diagnostics using a Porsche tool. Everything appeared to act normally during all the actuation tests.

Loren,

"Check ventilation line on tank

- Remove battery.

- Remove battery cover.

- Check whether ventilation line is attached to the fuel tank sender unit."

On the turbo, the connections are under a square cover in front of the differential. Are there connections under the battery tray we cannot see, in particular, where is the pressure transducer?

Thanks!

Alternate tires - have Nitto NT-01 with 315-30 and 245/40; I had clearance but added 5mm spacer on back just to be safe.

Guys,

I've been helping a friend with his 2002 TT and a very frustrating (intermittent!!) P0455 DME code. He needs to get through emissions inspection, in AZ they just connect to the OBDII port and the system won't show a "ready" state so it will fail.

We've seen several references to what the problem could be, just trying to narrow it down. We have the DME manual, shop manual (I thought it was complete) and completed a lot of research on the forums. Some things that will help,

- We need a full drawing of the tank vent system with the location of components; where is it in the manuals?

- References online indicate the simplified system for detection is as the attached. Where is the pressure sensor "5" located at? We've looked around the tank and the evac canister, doesn't appear to be anywhere near.

-We hear some kind of pump that comes on with the ignition, is that part of the evac system, where is it?

I don't think Vivid would have given you an inappropriate tune if you stated your car was otherwise stock. Go back to basics, we have 7 - 8 year old cars the new tune will place greater demands on all the parts, they better be in the best shape. Areas to look at in these cars are plugs, coils, MAF, bypass valves, boost hoses. By adding 110 octane all your doing is changing the speed of burn of the fuel, altering the timing needs.

Higher cylinder pressures ect you have more loading at the higher tune. If you have the original factory Beru plugs or they haven't been replaced in the last 20 - 25k I bet it's that and/or coilpacks. I'd do both.

A) Whose tune is this?

B) What does the tuner have to say?

A flash has impact on so many factors this could be timing, fueling, boost leaks and many others besides.

I was in the same boat as you 3 years ago. I did find one co to insure me, then rejected due to 19" wheels! Oh yeah, they don't cover wear items, how much expenditure is due to that (they decide).

Three years now i've had a window actuator fail and a clutch accumulator. Neither of these are high $.

IMO, I would have expected the inspection to find the transmission issues, lucky you were thorough with the test drive.

I would have been less worried about the Type 2s but the duration and the low mileage of the car throw a red flag. Added to that a transmission issue (most likely clutch, soon to be gearbox) indicate an "unloved" vehicle that's had abuse. If you were looking into the car further the suggestion on the operation hours is a good one, but with such low mileage problems may not show up yet.

Scr... the low mileage and walk away, lots of cars out there that have been well cared for, if you're looking for low miles I'll share a little from my last oil analysis. At 32k miles some of the trace elements were consistent with early life "break in" of the engine, that made me smile!

I just got back from an 11 hour round-trip visit to go see this car. I had to at least test drive the thing, or else I would have been constantly wondering if it was "the one that got away." I estimated that there was about a 50/50 chance I would be driving back in a Porsche. Once I arrived, I looked the car over; it was extremely well-kept, inside and out. The engine looked clean, and the only real issue was two scraped-up wheels. One wasn't horrible, but the other one was definitely substantial. Not so much a deep gouge, but a lighter scraping that extended almost the entire way around the edge of the wheel.

I first let the car idle for about 5-10 minutes. It started immediately and the motor sounded very nice. It idled purrrrfectly and I was pretty impressed at this point. I took it for a nice and long 20 minute test drive, with a mix of city driving and highway driving. The engine felt nice; smooth and powerful, but a bit slower than my current 335xi. The car tracked straight and smooth, and everything felt pretty solid.

Then the first problem arose: I was downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, clutch fully disengaged, perfect heel-toe rev-match, and the tranny made a grinding noise when I attempted to move the shifter into 2nd gear. That did not sit well with me at ALL. I kept driving and then the second, relatively minor issue became apparent: it was slightly difficult to get a smooth shift into 3rd gear. No grinding, but just not smooth engagement like the other gears. I kept on going for a few more miles, then needed to make one last u-turn before ending the the test drive. I was at a red-light which turned green, so I depressed the clutch pedal, shifted into 1st gear, and began to lift the clutch pedal to start moving. The instant the clutch started to engage, the shifter popped out of 1st gear into neutral. Ugh...

Needless to say, I made the five and a half hour trip back home in the same truck I drove up in. I wasn't so much disappointed as I was relieved that the problems had manifested themselves, otherwise I may have made a very bad purchase. I feel as if I absolutely made the right decision here. Oh well, I'm sure there will be plenty more nice cars in the future.

tbarcelo,

I went through a very similar experience with the tire sizes and mismatch tread.

When I bought my car it had the 235/305 combination on Pirellis. No issues with PSM but tire size calcs showed the 315-25 to be the better match. Didn't take long with the "chewing gum" Pirellis, I needed to replace the rears. I went for the Toyo T1R in the 315, immediately had problems with PSM kicking in on sweepers. I had maybe 5k left on the fronts, I ditched them for matching T1Rs. No problems after that, no issues with psm for over 15k now (yep, they still have a lot of tread left!).

Are the wheels/tires non std sizes? Fron and rear tire compound missmatch caused similar problems for me.

Is it related to the grounding on the radio? do you have an aftermarket stereo in there? This sounds very strange!

I doubt they've created different wiring or alarm system specially for the GT3

Interestingly there have been those (a certain turbos expert) that have measured turbo housing temps at various stages of idle that still recommend 2 min cool down. I do take into account my "re-entry" speed prior to the stop (lights, neighborhood ect) but rarely turn off before 30 - 60 seconds (5 minutes at the track).

I believe the 997 uses a electronically controlled clutch coupling, the 996 viscous which acts more like a diff, pushing the power forward when losing rear grip.

Very normal, sometimes even in the winter for me when I return to the garage and close it up. Car stays "alive" over 20 mins or so, fan goes on and off during this period. Summertime I go back to check as this makes me chuckle (i'm a tech geek)

Are you folks doing the Porsche recommended cool-down for turbos?

YES, 2 minutes

Very normal, sometimes even in the winter for me when I return to the garage and close it up. Car stays "alive" over 20 mins or so, fan goes on and off during this period. Summertime I go back to check as this makes me chuckle (i'm a tech geek)

I think the later motors were designated turbo "s" and 450 bhp; at some point in '04 the X50 became part of the standard spec.

Richard,

I was over in the UK last week; what are they doing to the roads?

What are you hoping to achieve?

My KW V3 coilovers can be adjusted to std ride height, as soft or as hard as I want. You can also adjust bound and rebound independently.