Danyol

Here you go, good luck

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/164588-read-before-you-order-new-alternator-save-1-000-euros.html

What kind of electronics you work with?

Sounds like the regulator on the alternator.

I've seen a DIY on replacing the component rather than the alternator, a big saving.

Thanks to everybody for their replies. It pretty much confirms what I thought so I will ask the dealer to change them while they are replacing the spark plugs and I will go for the Bosch items as I can get them for 2/3 of the price of the Beru units and they should be equally good quality.

Thanks again,

Danny.

Danny,

The dealership will want to put in OE items, no idea what they'll want to charge for those. Get a quote from them & maybe the time to shop the work around to some independents?

Not sure where you are?

I've seen oil working on 2 cars; not unusual.

The coil packs are relatively cheap ($50 - 60 each) compared to the labor getting in there; the misfire could be plugs or coils.

18hrs too long for clutch, maybe for a 1st time mechanic, and it can be done without engine out.

Hard pedal is the accumulator

Noise could be flywheel; aftermarket or worn

In case you missed it there's a Coil snd Plug DIY in the TT DIY; I used it a couple of years back.

One more question; your replacement MAF; where did you get it? How long have you had the car, if you're unsure whether it's flashed; has it ever run well? my concern is running lean at the top end, this would be very harmful to the engine.

WROSS, Agreed the ignition could be the issue but 1.4 bar doesn't make sense?

Is there a modified program in the ECU ("flash"); what do you normally see under boost on the gauge? take a look under the car to see the actuator rods for the waste gates are still in place. They are mechanical and pneumatic actuated via a tube to a piston. If the gate isn't moving the ECU will see excess boost then start dumping boost/retarding timing (the engine will protect itself).

Makes me question if the ECU is flashed since normally under "limp mode" the boost will be lower (no check engine?)

1.0 - 1.2 Bar, wheelspin at speed...sounds like the car is modded. Turbo S will see 0.8 Bar normally.

This is a very refined 450 hp; no issues as a daily driver..I'm looking for more now :D

Under the front of the hood my X50 lists the following factory installed options,

C02 XHF X5Y X50 X54 X70 X71 342 375 376

You're looking for the "X50" :)

I did a quick search on this form on P1411, been visited before

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...84&hl=P1411

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...28&hl=P1411

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...85&hl=P1411

Plenty more when you do a search, this forum is great for that! If you contribute you also get access to TSBs ect.

Oil pressure at 5 on the highway is normal, the water temperature should be sitting at 180.

I'd go to Autozone and have them read the codes (check engine) and come back and post the codes. The guys here are good at interpreting them.

I picked up a 2001 Turbo with Tiptronic transmission and 70,000 miles a few weeks ago. It passed a PPI from Porsche but I've already had a couple problems (not sure if they are related).

The water temperature sensor doesn't appear to be working properly. After driving for many miles (should be at operating temperature) it will sit on the line between 100 and 180 and I know it should be closer to 180. A few times it has been up to 180 but it's rare. It has come up twice with 'failure indicator'.

Yesterday, on the highway I was going about 70 with cruise control on. I turned off cruise control and immediately got a check engine light which is still on today.

I filled up the coolant reservoir because it was below the minimum line but I didn't have to add very much and both problems remain. Also when driving about 65-70MPH with cruise control on (~2000RPM), my oil pressure sits on the 5 line. I'm not sure if that is normal but it seemed a little high to me.

The car itself seems to be running strong with no smoke, noises, or symptoms. If anyone could point me in the right direction it would be extremely appreciated.

Exactly; the needle doesn't come out at the low pressures (small cross section 10 psi). I would puncture a small hole first as the football needle will bend before puncturing the plastic. For the cap, drill a hole slightly smaller than the tube, oil up tube and slide it in. Tube with a 1/4 - 3/8" bore works well with the high viscosity fluid.

Be careful not to over-pressurize; you know what will happen & it won't be pretty :huh:

Dan: from your picture...are you introducing the pressure to the container thru an air needle like you'd use to fill a football? Doesn't it come out when you start pressurizing the container? I can't really see what you're using to pressurize the container....but the tube thru the lid on the top would go to the bottom of the container to pick up the oil. You simply come off the trigger to stop the air pressure when it starts to flow out the fill hole.

Since I just turned 68 and have a bit of trouble crawling under the car on jackstands....I've invented a $20 bill that I give my indy to use his lift to change it out for me if I supply the Delvac.

Clean the throttle body; search for DIY on this site, it's been covered many times

I just pressurized the container to about 10 psi & used a 3/8" tube though a tight fiting hole in the cap,. Used it for the tranny and diff. (picture 2 posts previous)

Chuck, You weren't the only one. Here's my fill method.

OUCH!!! I literally paid twice the amount you did .....$26 a gallon? I despondent....depressed.....done in.....I could have bought four gallons for what I ended up paying.... Sacka-Hachi!! I'm going to go hide all the razor blades....

Chuck, You weren't the only one. Here's my fill method.

OUCH!!! I literally paid twice the amount you did .....$26 a gallon? I despondent....depressed.....done in.....I could have bought four gallons for what I ended up paying.... Sacka-Hachi!! I'm going to go hide all the razor blades....

Mike,

Have you done this (GT2 Hydraulics) , I'm concerned it would be too heavy for a daily driver?

Matt

Take a look here and ask laaves what he hasn't covered.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry133296

I've had both a standard 996 & TT with standard shifters. I upgraded to the B&M on the 996 and the 997 standard shifter in the the TT.

My experience driving each of the cars suggests it is easier to "beat" the syncro in the SSK. IMO it is also easier to NOT fully engage a gear with small physical movements giving rise to bigger mistakes. In a TT, not fully engaging a gear with the massive torque is likely to chew it up. My experience in rebuilding boxes NIL, experience with mechanical systems >25 years.

I'd venture to suggest a sensitive, precise (I'm guessing you wross), unrushed driver is likely to "feel" a gear in; someone aiming to beat the other guys to the next turn is more likely to be rough with the box.

Brad, what is the most common failure on the 2nd gear, is it the end of the teeth being chewed off?

How long has this been happening?

Bad gas or Issue with a CAT (although I think this one would throw a code); sounds like timing and boost is being cut back by ECU

I'm installing a custom PC setup in the car, planning on locating the hardware there. Don't plan to be ambitious initially, I'll limit it to running GPS & OBII software. Will progress to MP3, Interface, amps later once the front end software and hardware prove reliable :-)

Great Work!

Concerning the location of the amps; any issues with cooling? I'm in the process of planning installing some electronics in there?

Did you take that wrench back to Craftsman and tell them that you wanted a new one? They are warrantied against ALL defects....even those self inflicted ones.

Funny! If I did they'd probably patent the change and sell it back to us as an improved model :huh: