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Posts posted by Danyol
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Boldis,
Working around electronics something else occurred to me. The throttle is "drive by wire", this means there is a pedal and throttle position sensor. Not sure if these are potentiometers but if either is, the largest wear will occur at the smallest throttle positions. If they're optical sensors then no big deal (unless we're missing a bit :huh: ).
Maybe I'm making it too complicated, I'll clean my throttle body first :)
Mehmet
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Ok guys, after 1k of wear on the the new rears the PSM appears to activate a lot less. I still have the original pzeros on the front and the new tires on the rear...very strange.
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'03 TT X50 - 15 City and 22 highway
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One Cure for PCCB Squeal
I have an '03 X50TT with PCCB brakes and currently have 28k miles on the car. Over the last few thousand miles squealing from the brakes became intolerable. Looking at the manual there are "vibration dampers" attached into each piston with a retaining spring and a sticky pad to the back of the brake pad. I replaced these dampers and I have peace again! Parts (Front Calipers) Damping plate X12 996-352-086-01 Spring Plate X1 996-351-959-30 Procedure (appx. 1 hr) 1) Jack front of ca
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Submitted11/22/2008 11:33 PM
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Has anyone tried cleaning the throttle body, I've read that coatings in the body from fuel residue may cause erratic behavior at small throttle openings on the regular 996?
I have a similar problem that's developed over the last 2 -3k ('03 X50).
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http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=291228
More Info than you want to know..
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Guys,
I'm experiencing the "bump activation" exactly.
I started noticing it only when I replaced my rear tires with a different brand (same spec diameter from each of the suppliers websites). I was also noticing it in curves too (higher G, 50mph) the tendency was reduced when I dropped the front pressure a couple of PSI.
I suspect it's different compound adhesion front and rear. The rears I had previously (P-zeros) would break traction a lot earlier than my new set. I still have a lot of tread left on the P-zero fronts but I may have to toss them anyway.
MH
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Clutch Accumulator Replacement
Common Symptoms - Hard pedal particularly with engine off, vibration and inexact point of engagement Tools 27mm open ended wrench (small head - I ground down an old wrench), 10mm socket Materials Accumulator 997-334-166-00, Hydraulic fluid Pentosin CHF 11S (or CHF 202) - Pump the clutch 25 times with the engine off to relieve any residual pressure in the system - all 4 wheels off the ground on jack stands or a lift. Easier to remove driver's side rear tire for better access if you're on stan
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Submitted05/16/2008 04:45 PM
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I think that top cap should come off because the accumulator just screws on like an oil filter does.
Thanks Loren, that was exactly the case.
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My post from another thread -
I may be an anomaly, and I'm almost afraid to say; my 996 Pcars consumed/consume very little oil blush.gif
2002 C4S - Owned 2 yrs added 16k miles (6 track days), oil changes at 5k maybe added 0.5 L between changes
2003 TT - Owned 9 mths, purchased with 20k (changed oil straight away) now 25k mls (1 track day) and it has dropped 1 "bar" on the display. Always cool turbos before turning off, very occasionally see "smokescreen" at startup.
My cars are daily drivers, average commute 15 miles highway if traveling to office. After reading all the stories of what's "normal" and within specs I would have expected to use more. unsure.gif
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What about for a 986? How to put the car up on jack stands? Where to put the jack stands? I've searched but can't seem to find any reference.
Derek
Have you posted in the 986 forum, some great guys in there?
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Do you place a block of wood between the center case rib and the jack pad? Is this the same for a 997tt?
I have no room for a block, the jack barely fits under there! It appears to be very rugged, but if you want you may be able to use a small disc of rubber for protection (maybe cut from the sole of an old sneaker?).
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I may be an anomaly, and I'm almost afraid to say; my 996 Pcars consumed/consume very little oil :blush:
2002 C4S - Owned 2 yrs added 16k miles (6 track days), oil changes at 5k maybe added 0.5 L between changes
2003 TT - Owned 9 mths, purchased with 20k (changed oil straight away) now 25k mls (1 track day) and it has dropped 1 "bar" on the display. Always cool turbos before turning off, very occasionally see "smokescreen" at startup.
My cars are daily drivers, average commute 15 miles highway if traveling to office. After reading all the stories of what's "normal" and within specs I would have expected to use more. :unsure:
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Besides going to a PCM BUS system for the audio system (more complicated aftermarket upgrades), I believe there is very little difference between them.
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Good job!
A DIY would be a nice touch, you have pictures at various stages?
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My colleague & I both did our brake flush the same week on our PCars, both had the blue in the system when we started. We used a power bleeder and a syringe to remove as much of the old fluid from the reservoir as possible.
One liter of fluid appeared to produce a colorless bleed, within a few days fluid in the master cylinders in both cars appeared to be blue again. We came to the conclusion small residual fluid could affect the new batch, it appears to be a very strong dye.
We didn't go to the extent of comparing a sample with ATE blue.
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Peter,
I think you have your answer from 2008 Carrera; the 997 is tighter than the Vettes. It definitely is a personal preference; I've not known many people to go from a Vette to Pcar then back to a Vette :drive:
Now the GT3 is the purest track car IMO, much of the power is at the top end.
I would test drive both the new Vette & the 997s.
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I have 2003 TT X50 power pack, not eaten alive! Not reading carefully enough 997 S :huh:
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I was on the Sebring Florida track following an '07 Z06, had no problem keeping up in acceleration 60 - 130 on the big straight (03 996X50. no mods) although he did appear to be backing off at top end. He also had issues coming out of Turn 16 getting the power down; the Pcar with the AWD just sling shot out of there.
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Look in the members area on this website :huh:
hi guys new member here , i hope this forum is as helpful as some of the other forums i belong to . anyway i just picked up a 04 C4S cab speed yellow with 23k on it and i just love it the nicest sports car i've ever driven and i have several including a 88 911 cab . heres the problem the dealer where i bought it is'nt a porsche dealer so its not a POC car . he got the car at auction and the car did'nt have the owners manual, only one key, and no CDs for the nav . i found the CDs on ebay but can't find the owners manual anywhere is their a pdf file somewhere i can download ?? the auto door locks are driving me crazy if i want to lock the doors i'll lock them . theirs got to be away to disable this feature
2003 996TT Heating Diagrams
in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Posted
I have the 05, I think it applies, Loren can clarify maybe (I don't want to broach any copyright either)?
Pages_from_996turbo_wiring_2005_Climatronic.pdf