grover

Man, I couldn't afford to own a Porsche if I had to pay dealer labor!

Edit: ah nuts, just noticed the OP is in VA Beach, and the "stealer" in question is the one I'm stuck with, too. I've been able to avoid them so far, but I'm afraid one of these days something is going to break that will need specialized tools nobody else has access to.

I replaced my front brake pads today! Was pretty straightforward, easiest car I've done brake work on :) The dash light was on, so I bought one replacement brake wear sensor, but none had worn through? The left-front was showing some copper, but still intact. I broke it in half removing it (lesson learned: push back the pads *before* yanking the sensor!) , but I assumed since it was intact that the OTHER was worn through, and so reinstalled it. Got to the other side, and discovered that sensor to be pretty much pristine.

The dash light went out when I replaced the pads. (Why was it lit before if it wasn't worn through?) Should I tear the left-front wheel apart and replace the sensor, or is it fine like it is?

If you don't care about wet weather or life of the tire, Kumho XS is the best non R comp tire right now.

If you're looking for summer performance tires for a Porsche, I'd recommend looking only at these 4 tires. They're all faster than Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s, and cheaper to boot. They'll all wear out fast like PS2s (you'll be changing them about as often as you change your oil), but that comes with the grip- sure, you could put 60,000 mile all-seasons on a Boxster, but why? FWIW, I drive Dunlop Star Specs on my 04 986S, with 20mm wider than OEM in the front and OEM in the rear.

I didn't notice much difference at the autocross, but something this subtle is going to be hard to notice at my skill level (just my 2nd year- managed to win street tire class at both local clubs though which I'm super happy about :D) Thanks to my overly aggressive style, I wore the tires out in about 8000 miles instead of the 15,000 I expected. I did see uneven wear on the inside corner of the tire, probably a 1/16" difference. I had neutral/slight inside toe before the camber change. I had not attempted to measure it since.

After loosening the nuts, how did you lever the shock to move?

Did you have to raise the car? One wheel off the ground, or both? Or none?

I put a big socket and some extensions on the top of the shock and brute-forced it while the springs were as unloaded as possible. If I start moving it back and forth for every race, I'm sure I'd find a good technique pretty quickly.

Are you racing on street tires or R-comps? Do you have M030 suspension? The best alignment is going to be different for different setups.

I had terrible understeer on my 04 Boxster S (non-M030) when I first started autocrossing it. Sticking with street tires, I found going with slightly wider front tires (225/45-17) were a HUGE improvement in making the car handle more neutrally, and dialing in as much negative camber was not so muchttp://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=30707&st=0&gopid=166179h because there's SCCA AS restricts us to factory adjustable settings (about -.75 max) which does not allow for camber plates or anything. I left rear camber alone at -1.3 (OEM).

Beware, though, going outside of factory spec can cause uneven tire wear. Also, if all you're doing is going to the stops with negative camber, there's no fancy tools involved, just loosen the bolts and push it to the stops. If you mark the original position, you can move it back to the old position after the autocross. This has some small impact to toe, too; gives a little more toe out, which is desirable.

Changing tire pressure can help, too. Remember- the stock pressures, tire sizes and camber are all carefully selected to keep trophy wives out of ditches- NOT for best performance. For reference, after much trial & error, I ran this season on Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs at 225/45-17 front @ 36psi hot and 255/40-17 rear @ 36psi hot. As you're running a different car with different tires and a different air guage (+/- 15psi with the 6 I've got laying around), you'll still need trial & error to find the right pressure for your tires.

Where can I buy underbody panel parts for my Boxster (other than a Porsche dealer of course)? (these are the black plastic panels underneath the car). I've looked at a couple of the online parts places (Pelican, autohaus) who don't carry them. (?maybe too large to ship easily?) I live in West Los Angeles if someone knows a local place. Thanks! The panels I'm looking for are the rear left side panel, part # 996 504 561 00 and the rear panel, part # 986 504 119 00 or 986 504 129 02

I ordered the rear panel from sunset imports. Shipping sucks, but so do dealer mark-ups, so internet prices are often pretty good. Don't be afraid to call around for quotes. Can't remember where I got the front from.

For those curious, here's what both halves of the inside of the switch looks like:

If anyone else has this problem and finds this thread, the procedure on page 94-5 of the Bentley manual shows how to get the switch out. You'll need a short-handled torx screwdriver, but it's easy to get to without contortions and it came out without too much cursing. There are some clips not mentioned, but pull hard enough once the 3 screws are out, and it will come out. There are no clasps on the large connector; careful use of a flathead screwdriver will split them. (VERY careful use if you haven't disconnected the battery.) The little connector is straightforward. My biggest tire iron got the retention nut off the switch; it's not on very tight, just a big nut. The hardest part was undoing the crimps to split the switch open; I attacked it with a needle-nose pliers and screwdriver until I could get it to split. The plastic bit on the end rotates freely, but alignment is obvious and it was not hard to align for reassembly. I used a hammer and cold chisel to recrimp after the repair, but it didn't work so well and was still loose, so I just ended up gluing it. I hope it holds!

Turns out there is, indeed, an error in the leader lines in the Bentley manual. They acknowledged it, and added it to the errata: https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/x/AwDwAQ

After poring through the electrical diagrams long enough, I eventually traced my the problem with near certainty to the light switch, pin KL58. I procrastinated fixing this, but it's gotten worse and worse until the instrument lights just aren't coming on at all and I can't read my tach, gas gauge or temp at all on my morning commute. Finally got around to fixing the light switch today. Had a bit of trouble undoing the crimps with a screwdriver and pair of needle-nose pliers, but not too bad (Thanks for the tip, Glyn, you saved me $120!!!) Fascinating how it works; it's not at all like I pictured it. The rotating knob part only contains plastic cams that hold the sprung copper contacts open, or allow them to close, depending on the position of the switch. The white dilly at the bottom rotates when you pull it out to turn on the fog lamps. I found that weak springs weren't the problem at all in my case, but that one contact was bad. With the cams removed, all the springs should be closed, and all appeared well. It was closed, and all springy, but I got out my multimeter anyhow... and continuity test failed on pin KL58. EUREKA! Touching the terminal was enough to make the connection, though. Cleaned the contacts with a bit of sandpaper and electronics cleaner, and, reassembled, and works great :D

My probe is pointing to the faulty contact, KL58 (Simply "58" on my switch):

I couldn't get the crimps as tight as the factory, so I hot glued them as well.

Very nice, Nurvus!

As much as we tend to think otherwise... it's still just a car. Treat it like you would your Honda or any other car on a long trip. Specific to the Boxster, I'd keep the coolers in the front vs the back (no engine heat), check the pressure in the spare before leaving just in case, and enjoy the trip! You might want to check the tread (and pressure) on your tires before leaving, too- With the soft compound tires we use, they can easily go from marginal to unsafe in 1300 miles, and you certainly don't want to have to get new tires halfway through your trip. For that matter, you may need to consider weather along your route, too. Anywhere you'd need all-seasons?

I wouldn't hesitate to drive mine 650 miles and back.

I've recently added two items to the car kit. A tires carrier/cover from Tire Rack for dirty flats and a day-glo orange motorcycle vest for roadside emergency visibility.

Can you tell me which radio you have? I'm fed up the the tinny sound of the OEM radio. Thanks

I would say we are both right. The term "flat spotting" is used to desribe both phenomenon.

Are you using summer tires? Summer and winter tires use different rubber compounds. Winter tires are more flexible at colder temperatures, and shouldn't have this problem. It will only get worse when it gets colder.

If your tires are so cold as to deform and not rebound properly, grip is almost certainly suffering as well. Masking it by parking on something softer is just masking the symptom, not fixing the problem.

This is common. Termed "flat spotting". Normal.

I've got the switch on hand, but am second-guessing myself based on this thread and hesitant to replace it... so I did some more troubleshooting today to narrow the cause down. When this problem occurs, my instrument cluster lights are out, as are every button in the cockpit. All other lights, including the head lights and license plate lights are on as normal, though.

I've been trying to go through the wiring diagram and pinpoint the point of failure. I think I'm not getting the "lights on" signal to pin A19 (Term 58), which would most likely be a failure in the light switch. However, it looks like the license plate lights come off Term 58, and they have power. The Bentley manual has errors on this diagram, though: EWD-62 has continuation line K, but no D. EWD-63 has D, but no K. How is this actually wired? Where's that 2nd wire from Term 58 going, if not to the license plate lights?

Edit: I sent an email to Bentley as well.

If you have no other electrical issues then i would rule out the ignition switch though this is a common part to fail,

Just tried it again now, and the lights worked with no issues. I ordered a new ignition switch, should be here some time next week.

Thanks for the advice on the light switch! When it fails, I'll just go ahead and fix it myself :)

04 986S

Last two times I turned my lights on... no dash lights. Both times, they snapped on during a slow but hard turn- first time (after about 30 seconds) a right turn, second time (after about 5 minutes), a left. The 2nd time, in my garage, I turned my lights off and back on with the car running. The headlights briefly (like 1/4 second) came on real dim, like happens without the key in, and then came on full. And the dash lights stayed out. I don't recall the car bonging when I pulled key and THEN killed the lights, but I didn't even think about it until searching on here.

Any specific tests I can do to verify it's the ignition switch vice the light switch? And is it important to disconnect the battery before this repair, or can I just go ahead and yank the connector?

Does anyone have any info on Delphi Promax PX-48/91G batteries? (OEM on my '04 Boxster S) Is it AGM or a wet cell? I looks like a wet-cell battery, but the cover isn't coming off to be able to check water levels, and I don't want to force it.

I feel rather funny having to ask this, but with Delphi folding, there's about 0 information to be had online.

Well, after driving a bit, I think there's still a small amount of air trapped in the lines somewhere. It's not bad, but it's still a little squishy if I push hard enough. What's the best way to flush it out, would bleeding the lines a full cycle (EG, 5 or so brake pedal pumps) push it out? I'm quickly running out of fresh fluid, though, there's not much left of my 1L bottle of ATE Super Blue :(

Because there are 4 calipers you will need about 3 liters of brake fluid to bring the pedal back to normal. Start with the RR since that is the longest line, then go around to the other calipers.

I have a tip, btw, so no clutch to bleed.

Starting at the right rear caliper:

- Connect a drain tube to each of the fittings on the caliper. Drain into a suitable container (I use a gallon jug).

- Open the outer bleeder valve. When the fluid runs clean/new and bubble-free, close it.

- Open the inner valve.

- When the fluid runs clean/new and bubble-free, open the outer valve. Now both valves are open and fluid is flowing.

- Move to the driver's seat.

- Fully depress the brake pedal three times. Each time: hold the pedal to the floor for 2-3 seconds before slowly releasing it.

- After the third cycle, return to the caliper.

- Close the inner bleeder valve.

- Let the outer valve bleed for a while until you are absolutely sure the fluid is clean/fresh without bubbles, then close it.

- Open the inner valve again and make sure the fluid flows clean and bubble-free from there, too, before re-tightening it.

Edit: I bled both rear inner calipers with my son manning the brake (bunch of air came out both). We pumped the brakes 2 more times after the bubbles stopped, and gave a pump from the outer caliper, too. I then moved to the front... and the inner caliper bled blue? Not sure what's going on there as they *should* have been full of yellow fluid, but I stopped, cleaned up with brake cleaner and hosed everything down very well.

Brake pedal feels stiff now, and braking feels as good as ever, maybe even better, and no problem locking up the tires at low speeds (25-30mph). Am I done, or is there still danger? I at least feel safe driving to work on Monday, although I have an autocross next Sunday.

Today was the first time I've flushed the brakes on my 2004 986S. I got a new bottle of new fluid (ATE Super Blue to make it easy), picked up a loaner vacuum bleeder from the local auto parts store, and went to it.

I didn't realize there were two compartments in the fluid reservoir, and accidentally bled both rear lines completely dry. I refilled with new fluid and bled all 4 wheels until new fluid came out, but the brake pedal is going straight to the floor and I'm hearing a whooshing sound from the master cylinder (probably all that fluid rushing to compress the air.)

I had my son pump the brake pedal while I held the pressure bleeder, and both rear brakes are looking bubble free, but my pedal still goes to the floor. Help! What do I do now?

If you pull the cover to the fuse panel, there's a booklet in there that shows which fuse is which. There's also a relay mounted under the dash right above the fuse panel. The cab top uses a double-wide relay; on my 985S, it was the only double relay there, so easy to find even though it's not labeled. (If you pull it, to verify, there may be a sticker on the side with a bunch of german words pretty clearly related to your cab top) There are a number of other things that can go wrong, too, unfortunately... Any way you can rule out any faulty interlock microswitches?

This has been covered many times before on the forum. Why do you feel it's a defect to be stopped before top operation?? It's designed to protect the top material and operation mechanism from having to work against wind resistance. '05 models and up have a reworked top that can be opened/closed on the move up to 50 kph.

I did search this forum, but didn't find any threads on the topic. (Believe me, I tried!) I found some archived topics at Porsche Pete's, but the links to the instructions were dead. One thing I don't like is the grounding method; it just doesn't seem robust enough. What I'd *like* to do, is modify the relay itself, so that all the changes are internal. Which pin in the relay is ground? It looks like the ground wire is the brown one coming in from pin B2 on the harness, but what pin on the relay does that correlate with?

I was never quite sure if it was a 'feature' or a 'defect' (I'm thinking defect), but having to stop the car and pull the handbrake to operate the top sure is annoying. At the PCA fun run today, another Boxster owner told me how easy it was to bypass the handbrake and speedo signals, and I set upon it immediately when I got home. Took a couple tries, as the first bolt I tried to ground the relay's handbrake pin to apparently is grounded to nothing but plastic, but I finally found a spot to ground it, and got it working. So I can finally operate the top while rolling

I did a search on here and didn't see the procedure. If anyone's interested:

1. Pull the cab top relay (under the dash, above the fuse panel- it's a double-wide relay, was the only double relay on my panel. Mine had all the pin functions labeled in German on it.)

2. Bend pin 18 (speedometer) over. I covered it with electrical tape, but it's probably not necessary.

3. Bend pin 15 (handbrake) over.

4. Attach a wire to pin 15 and ground it to something on the car- I dremeled the paint off the fascia rail under one of the screws of the lavender OBD port, and grounded to there. [update: I had some reliability issues with this ground point, and moved it to a more solid screw under the dash; hadn't had an issue in 2 years!]

5. Reinstall the relay.

It's completely reversible if you screw something up. Just try not to break your relay. I did discover if it's not bonded well, the top will NOT operate. So, there is potential here that if the connection loosens, the top might not operate.

You mean besides the built-in high-g CD holder some models years have? It can only hold 4 CDs, but does so very nicely.

I just went and bought an MP3 player with built-in FM transmitter. It plugs right into the cigarette lighter and has a nice little LCD screen- looks great, and works well.

Does your car have the storage compartment behind seats between rollbar? Or do you have a subwoofer there?

You mean besides the built-in high-g CD holder some models years have? It can only hold 4 CDs, but does so very nicely.

I just went and bought an MP3 player with built-in FM transmitter. It plugs right into the cigarette lighter and has a nice little LCD screen- looks great, and works well.

Finally bit the bullet and adjusted my front camber. Will see at the autocross tomorrow if it makes a difference!

This is the right-front, which was WAY bad to start (slightly positive). The left wasn't so bad to start, and not quite so drastic an adjustment.