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logray

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Posts posted by logray

  1. Hey there.

    The bearing can fail immediately, but we have heard that it can also "hang on" for a 100 miles or so before it totally blows up.

    The rattle could come from something else though.

    But just as a precaution I wouldn't drive the car until it is properly diagnosed.

    Hopefully it would just be lose exhaust or a bad bearing.

    Taking all of these precautions and having a shop look at it will be much less expensive than if it really is the IMS bearing gone south - and hopefully - it is probably something else. If it's not, you'll still have saved yourself a bucket load of money - if you catch the IMS early enough - no damage is done aside from having to replace the bearing.

    By the way, soon Jake @ Flat 6 will be releasing his IMS guardian detection unit, which will be able to alert drivers (before) their IMS bearings fail so they can safely pull over and stop the engine before complete meltdown.

  2. I've read in a several forums that there are many different "theories" as to the best way to seat a RMS - with regards to lubricant/sealant (excluding discussions about the tool).

    Speaking of the latest version of seal for a 996.

    The original work shop manual says the outer flange must go in dry. The inner crankshaft surface, inner seal, and plastic installation piece should be lubricated with heavy weight motor oil. Of course, since the original WSM was written, there have been many changes to the RMS seal.

    To this point, there are many different "ideas" I've read about. I am thinking that perhaps 3 is the only right answer, except perhaps using some light oil on the inner seal surfaces to aid installation and prevent scorching the RMS.

    1.) Apply curil-t to the outside flange.

    2.) Spray WD-40 on the inner flange instead of motor oil.

    3.) Install the entire seal dry (including inner surface). The PTFE (teflon) coated treatings are all that are required for installation and normal operation.

    Comments/Experiences/Opinons?

    TIA!!!

  3. When I did this to replace a fender on my 99.

    If I remember right, three might (or might not be) be one easily accessible bolt on the top, then the thank just pulls out towards the front of the car. It's held in place with grommets from behind (near drivers door) and is just a compression fitting with plastic forms on the tank. No bolts or anything. Just use some brute strength or if you can fit a small pry bar behind.

    Be careful though, if there is fluid in the tank it can easily spill out once you remove it.

  4. Oh, sorry - you're in the UK. Well those places should ship internationally... but there should be local suppliers there who have competitive pricing.

    At least you can look at the links I gave you for alternatives (the tirerack.com link lists other Bilstiens and Konis).

    Perhaps someone will chime in with some suppliers in the UK.

    Here's an interesting auction you might want to see:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PORSCHE-996-C2-FRONT-SPORTS-SHOCK-ABSORBERS-BILSTEIN-/150612516422

    They are new upgraded struts for a IX74 option. I'm not sure if they would be a direct replacement for the standard kit.

  5. If you are looking for stock replacement standard Bilstien's like the one that came with your car:

    P/N 99634304127 for 253.37 each.

    http://www.porscheoemparts.com or the link at the top of this website "porsche parts at dealer cost": http://www.renntech....poffers/sunset/

    Or are you looking at aftermarket?

    http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Porsche&autoModel=911+Carrera+Coupe&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=

  6. Ok, called a few dealers and here's what I found out.

    56 (replaced 55) does not show up as being superseded by 57.

    Only 54 shows up as being replaced by 57.

    I guess when I get my hands on 57 next week I'll share whatever info I can about it.

    FYI the dealer could not find 57 in his version of PET either - had to go into Polaris for super session/availability inquiry.

  7. If I understand you correctly you remove the key and yet the LED display in your dash pod stays on?

    It is normal for the LED display (ODO/OBC/MPH/etc) to stay on for a period of time after the car is off. It will turn off automatically on it's own after a period of time or if you lock the car (does yours not?).

    Also if the display is off, you open the car door and turn the headlights on and then back off <or> press the odometer dial the instrument cluster LED display will come on for period of time and then turn off automatically - which is also normal.

    Or are you saying the "idiot lights" below the LED display stay on? For example check engine/airbag/handbrake/etc.

  8. Perhaps possible low battery / low voltage / under performing or bad alternator / corroded wiring?

    My car was doing something similar - it wouldn't restart after stopping when it was hot. It wasn't stalling though. I suppose perhaps with an electrical system in bad enough shape perhaps you would see some strange things with the electrical components.

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31797-strange-low-voltage-problems

    In addition - it's tough to hear from the video, but if there are any unusual mechanical sounding noises coming from the engine bay I would not try to restart it without being properly diagnosed.

  9. ...I am using WD40 to spray on individual linkages on my front wheel to try to isolate the location of the sound...

    I would be careful using WD40 since it is a degreaser, you might actually temporarily make the problem better since it does lubricate a little, but later it could get worse if you haven't cleaned and then re-lubed using the proper grease or lubricant.

  10. Does it sound like it's coming from the top of the steering wheel (noisy airbag clockspring?), near the footwell (a little lube around the shaft collar), or somewhere under the car within the steering system (with a helper can you hear it outside or only while in the cabin), or even from the engine bay (squeaky belt/pump/pulley)?

  11. ... I then took a spirited drive and upon arrival back home it was smoking from a leak dripping on the exhaust pipes. When I opened it up to check it out, coolant was spewing out from under and around the reservoir cap. Could this be a freak coincidence or did the new pump create enough pressure to expose a failing reservoir cap?...

    Could you have perhaps overfilled the system as well, or spilled some on various components while you were adding coolant?

  12. Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah I'm seeing the same thing (or not seeing it more accurately).

    When I went to order -54, the dealer came back with "NLA, superseded by -57). I asked a second source and they are telling me the same thing.

    Now I want to know what this .57 part is and whether it also supersedes .56 (and .55) Or if it just replaced .54, in which case I'll probably go forward with the order.

    I asked for some clarification from both parties and have yet to hear back from them. I think I stumped them. :)

  13. I'll watch the video later, but did you check the power steering fluid level?

    Do you notice anything strange with the steering or clutch action?

    Assuming the engine runs fine? aside from the screech and smoke from whatever oil is leaking and burning off. Is it smoking on a cold startup, or only when the car was hot?

    How is the oil level in the car?

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