355bhp

Sport also allows a more 'relaxed' PSM intervention, i.e. you can achieve about a 45 degree slip angle before it cust in to straighten you up !

I'm gonna take a high performance driving class this January or February, so I'll see how effective the PASM (without the true Sport button's bells and whistles) at the kidney-busting setting really is. Actually, at higher speeds, the PASM "sport" setting is considerably less harsh.

This is a bit embarrasing for me, but is there a graceful way to exit a Carrera coupe without looking like the old coot that I am? I'm 63, 6' 1" tall, reasonably fit, but my knees are shot! And because of my vanity, I refuse to swing both legs out simultaneously in the attempt to achieve a standing position. The main problem is that my knees don't quite bend like they used to. Oh, and keep this among yourselves. . .

I just read this article in this morning's L.A. Times: http://www.latimes.com/classified/automoti...0,3623022.story

I guess we're obsolete.

. . . It also some how makes the motor

louder. This is real good at the track. Not sure

if you need it around town.

Paul

I read/heard somewhere, that the Sport setting also bypasses a coupla baffles in the muffler, or maybe it's on the intake side.

Sport chrono + have two buttons, one with the shock icon= controls only PASM and one with sport inscription which overrules PASM button, throttle control via DME, brakes and a lot more.

Yeah, after reading all that mouth watering stuff in the manual about what that button does, I ran to look inside my car and alas, no Sport button. Drat. Still love that little green monster though.

Imagine my dismay at discovering that the little button with the Koni shock icon is not a Sport button! I guess my perceptions of a quicker throttle response and snappier exhaust were all in my head! Good thing my C2S seems just as sporty and noisy without one! Does the true Sport button only come with the "Sport Chrono" option? I AM thankful however, that the PASM on the "Morgan +4" setting IS there when all that oomph and torque comes on line out of a corner! Forgive me: I'm just a newbie.

3. a. Undo the threaded sleeve for the rubber moulding of the air cleaner housing from the throttle body 1

b. Unclip the oil filling pipe from the air cleaner housing. . .4.

Is there a trick to unclipping the oil filling pipe from the air cleaner housing? It was so reluctant the first time I tried it to add a quart of oil, I thought I might have broken off one of the clips. Thanks.

With regards to the rattles, I'm getting it on bumpy roads, especially with PASM on sport setting. The dealership used teflon tape within the roof lining to try and cure it, but this has had no effect. I took a technician out with me on a subsequent visit and he said the noise was similar to a problem on 996 with sunroof. I was told there is no absolute fix ?!?!

I realize this topic is ancient history, but I'm glad I'm not the only one with a sunroof rattle. Mine's only there when the sunroof is at the one-touch setting, or when it's fully closed. And I have the PASM ALWAYS set on sport mode.

The sunroof operation is also VERY slow (slower even than my old M-B W123 TDC). My car's an '05 C2S with but 25K miles on the clock. Would a little grease on the rails help?

You can activate or deactivate the sport mode when driving without problems.

Thanks RFM.

Would there be any problem with switching the Sport Mode on and off at speed in a manual trannied '05 C2S? I understand from the manual, that the increased throttle response feature doesn't occur till the pedal is either floored or released completely, so I assume it's OK, though I've just been leaving it on of late, because it's lots more fun.

I don't know that anyone else could be so absent minded and oblivious as I that they would put both keys in the trunk and then manage to lock themselves out of the vehicle, but I'll put together a brief DIY just in case.

Hey, yer talkin' to the absent-minded king right here. I'm gonna take special note of your post, because that's JUST the thing I would do.

Do you just need item 10?

If so, it is 997.572.570.04.FMT cap, black -- US MSRP $1.87

Yup, that looks like the one. Many thanks!

Rick

I need a part number (and a correct name, if possible) for this missing little plastic cover:

There's a nut and stud fastener underneath, and there's a matching cover at the other end:

Thanks.

Oh, and please pardon my cat's paw prints all over the hood!

Easier to do it when in sport mode.

Ah. Good tip. I'll make sure my dentures are screwed in tight and give it a try tonight on my way home. And DANG, that thing sure is fun to drive!

Well, traffic was ridiculously heavy tonight, but the Sport mode seemed to make little difference in heel-and-toe-double-clutch down-shifting, but it's lotsa fun practicing.

If I may stray a bit from the thread; seeing that all my fillings stayed in place, I kinda like the rougher-tougher ride combined with the all-around quicker response. I could get used to it.

Where do people in the LA area (especially close to Pasadena) buy tires? I'm getting to the point of needing them and recognize that it is not a matter of just going down to Pep Boys. Having said that, I would really like to avoid getting them from the dealer; I see enough pirates in everyday life. Arrg.

Thanks.

I've had the best luck with Costco. Depending where near Pasadena you are, the Azuza or Los Feliz stores might be closest. Call them first to see if they indeed have tire shops. Last I heard, Road & Track magazine uses Costco for their tire testing articles.

Rick

Double clutching is more than I am capable of... and I don't think necessary with a modern Porsche gearbox.

You're likely absolutely right. I don't do it out of any necessity; I only do it because it's fun, and it makes lotsa noise!

Is the clutch disengaged when you are heel toeing?

I hope so -- as the whole point is you are downshifting and trying to match engine speeds.

But it's engaged once inbetween, if you're double-clutching.

There is no doubt the 997-S is a fantastic car to drive, however there is one thing that has been bothering me. It seems the engineers in Stuttgart, have programmed the throttle to cut off when the brake peddle is depressed, making it impossible to left foot brake. Even when all the traction control is turned off, the scenario is the same.

By Gar, you're right! Had a little trouble wedging my size 13E in there, but sure enough, the power quit. I'm not that familiar with trail braking, but I think it has something to do with establishing a 4-wheel drift, and my hat's off to you for having the guts and skill to do that, but whenever I wanna hang the tail out, I just punch the throttle; the S has got that much torque!

Just found this on the web: http://www.drivingfast.net/car_control/left_foot_braking.htm

I DON'T think I'll be trying this technique with my nice and shiny C2S for a LO-O-O-ONG time!

Rick

I don't get this. A heel and toe works just fine -- first press the brake with the left side of the foot then roll right side of foot onto throttle. According to this thread as I read it, the throttle blip should not work. What am I missing?

I'm with tomnash on this one. I've never experienced Little t's problem, and I always apply the brake before blipping the throttle. I think Little t is attempting a "trailing brake" maneuver. Perhaps the throttle cut-off happens when the throttle is applied BEFORE the brake. I've never done it before, so maybe I might try it tomorrow and see if I get the same result on my '05 C2S coupe.

You have to look at both the minor maintenance schedule and the major maintenance schedule. They dovetail with each other in terms of time and mileage. Thus, the manufacturer's suggested oil change interval in this case is every 2 years or 20,000 miles. --Brian

Ah. Good catch Brian! Thanks! Don't know why Porsche doesn't say that outright in their manual. Sure woulda saved me a lot of embarrassing and tedious questions to patient Loren!

Rick

Max change interval IMHO is once per year or every 12,000 miles.

I change mine every 6 months regardless of mileage but that is just me.

I'm used to an oil/filter change on my old M-B diesel every 3000 mi, so this is all quite new to me. And this on top of 355 bhp: I'm loving it! (My apologies Loren, if I strayed from the thread. . . )

I personally would not go over 12,000 between oil changes (or 2 years).

Many, many thanks for your infinite patience. 10-12K miles makes more sense to me.

Um... 2nd item on maintenance list...

It CAN'T mean every 40,000 miles. . . . can it? (I'm starting to feel really stupid here) Or maybe the On-Board Computer's supposed to tell me? And yes, I'm using the specified Mobil 1 synthetic.

See the minor maintenance schedule for your model car.

Sorry, I guess I must be hit over the head with it, but I can't find any oil/filter change intervals in the downloaded Minor Maintenance schedule or my manual. What am I missing, besides a few brain cells? I can only guess that it's every 10,000 miles or yearly. Please forgive me for being such a pain.

1. Everything is the same for 996 and 997 including tools.

2. You can download the Maintenance Schedules here.

Great stuff! Thanks, but how often should one change engine oil and filter?