355bhp

Hey, I just noticed in my MY '05 "911 Carrera" owner's manual, that the Engine Data page states that the "911 Carrera" has an M96/05 engine, whereas the "911 Carrera S" has an M97/01 engine. Are there any internal differences from the M96 besides the .23 liter displacement increase? The build date of my car was 10/29/04.

Posting up a few pics of my C2S... Any suggestions on some exterior upgrades?

You can start by taking off those wheels. . . . . and giving them to ME! Are they BBS's?

Cheers

My sunroof rattles when open to the first stop position i.e., a coupla inches shy of being fully retracted into the roof. I open it all the way, and the rattling stops....more or less. At first, I couldn't tell where the rattling was located; could that be the source rather than the glovebox?

THANKS for the steer to the right direction!

While I still can't isolate the origin of the sound, when I tilt or open the sunroof the sound stops. We visit the dealer tomorrow morning.

Much appreciated!

thanks, Bob

Just remember: it IS a proper sports car and not a Lexus. As I posted once before; I put my foot down, and all little clunks, rattles and squeaks are forgiven. And if one keeps the revs in the stratosphere where they belong, one can't hear them anyway! Cheers.

And don't baby it. Drive it hard.

Just got a new client who has a 997 GT3 with Ceramic brakes. He is on top of the waiting list for the 2010 GT3.

He took me for a drive today and then let me drive it. Wow... :jump: That is an amazing Porsche. I had goose bumps after I got out of it. The smoth power band and the sound are incredible. (not to mention the stopping power of those brakes.)

I envy you GT3 owners... :clapping: Hopefully I can acquire one in the near future!

I just talked to a guy not 45 minutes ago with a GT3, in the supermarket parking lot of all places, and I asked its displacement and output (forgot to ask what year, but it was a 997). He said it was a 3.6 with about 415 naturally aspirated bhp. So where the heck does it all come from?! And yes, I want one too.

Is there a way to calculate RpM for any given speed and any given gear? I have just bought a 2006 manual 997 and I find I am coming too close to over-revving on downshifts, i.e. shifting down a gear too early. I am used to a much higher engine note and the 997's low-pitched growl is a lower pitched noise that the howl i am used to from other cars i have owned, and constantly leads me to think that I am doing 3,000 RpM when in fact it's closer to 5,000 RpM If I knew that, for example, at 5,000 RpM in 4th I cannot change down to 3rd, it would help me learn my new car better.

There's probably a formula that takes into account RPM, gear ratio, final drive ratio, and wheel diameter.

Learn to drive by that big ol' tach right smack in the middle; it just takes a little practice. I believe the digital speedo just beneath it is VERY accurate, and it's very easy to read, but when I'm accelerating up past 6 Grand in fourth, I'm too busy hanging on for dear life and watching out for wandering behemoth SUV's (this is on my daily commute) and the CHP to worry too much about actual mph.

Cheers

You posted a 997-1 question in the 996 area - which could be why you not replies.

Guess I got thrown because I started looking in the 997-1 Maintenance forums, and there were only two topics, both unrelated to brakes. There's a wealth of stuff in the 997-1 forums; I just didn't bother to go beyond the first coupla pages.

I'll mic my rotors this weekend, and I also need to find the minimum pad thicknesses before I attend a local high performance driving class in May.

For a 997-1 S:

New pad thickness should be 12.0 mm both front and rear.

Minimum wear thickness 2 mm.

Personally, I would would not a track a car with less than 4 mm.

Thanks Loren!

The school requires a minimum of 50% pad thickness or 6mm in my case.

Cheers

You posted a 997-1 question in the 996 area - which could be why you not replies.

Guess I got thrown because I started looking in the 997-1 Maintenance forums, and there were only two topics, both unrelated to brakes. There's a wealth of stuff in the 997-1 forums; I just didn't bother to go beyond the first coupla pages.

I'll mic my rotors this weekend, and I also need to find the minimum pad thicknesses before I attend a local high performance driving class in May.

Loren,

Are these thickness specs the same for 'S' rotors? Mine's a MY '05 C2S. Thanks.

Here I go replying to my own post. I did a search like I was SUPPOSED to, and came up with the answer. Here's a link to the forum page: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...8&hl=rotors, and scroll down to Post #6.

Cheers

Lot of interesting conversation. I bought a few months back a 2002 c4 cab with tiptronic 52,000 miles. No oil drips anywhere but all this conversation does make one nervous. I bought a 3 year 36,000 warrenty from the dealer for piece of mind. Got such a good price on the car figured the 3 grand for a warrenty was worth it. I have a local mechanic who is crazy talented and doesn't charge premium rates just because the car is from germany. I am going to maintain the heck out of it, drive it every sunny day and not worry.

And drive it hard. It ain't no Lexus.

I'm doing some preventive maintenance on a newly purchased car for my wife. Pre-purchase inspection indicates the pads are about 50% worn and the rotors have some "grooving" but the note siad it's consistent with the mileage and year - 2003 with 19K miles.

. . . Should I change the rotors as well since I'm there or is minor grooving not that big of an issue?

Measure them with a micrometer and see if they are within spec (26 mm front and 22 mm rear). Also check for radial cracks:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ost&p=18082

Loren,

Are these thickness specs the same for 'S' rotors? Mine's a MY '05 C2S. Thanks.

when i start my car, occasionally i get a loud squeal...not a belt. when driving at normal rpm (2500-3500) then let off i can hear what sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel.

A 300bhp hamster wheel to be sure. . .

I keep a relatively close eye on the oil level in my car as I know they do use it up. I had noticed that it often reads significantly higher when its been sitting in the garage undriven for a little...

...Last night I re checked it (wanted to make sure it didn't need another top off) and saw that it was absolutely full to the top (at the very top of the graph). I also noticed that the oil pressure seemed to be hitting the top of the dial with relatively little rev load as I drove it...

I do an oil level check after each gas fill-up and only after the car sits overnight. The most it's used so far is about a half-quart (.4 liter) every 1000 miles or so. The car is driven daily, and except at idle, the oil pressure pointer is always pegged to the max.

PQR5CHE,

You'll be happy to know that I've just set your photo as the background for my desktop.

A hundred years ago, there was a legend about the necessity of keeping the rpm's elevated on the 356 Porsches of the day, and I believe that stemmed from the original 356 Carreras having roller-bearing cranks, and that the higher revs regimen was to counter any potential damage to those roller bearings from lugging the motors. Do you think that might apply to the M96's IMS bearing as well?

All I know is, that I'm having a ball keeping the revs elevated on my MY '05 M96 equipped C2S!

My sunroof rattles when open to the first stop position i.e., a coupla inches shy of being fully retracted into the roof. I open it all the way, and the rattling stops....more or less. At first, I couldn't tell where the rattling was located; could that be the source rather than the glovebox?

If you are lucky, you will learn that you have the single row bearing and that it hasn't let go completely and that you can have the bearing and its associated parts replaced without engine teardown. Make that very lucky.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

Regards, Maurice.

Oops! 1schoir's right! I forgot that '05's likely have a double-race IMS bearing: just like mine! When you read the LN article, you'll see why you'd be lucky indeed if it doesn't. My fingers are crossed for you!

Thanks a lot.

Will let you know how it goes and what they say.

So far the dealer mentioned that he can't tell yet if it is the intermediate shaft as he thinks the engine would not start if that was broken. But will onyl know for sure when they remove the engine.

He also thinks it could be the crank shaft seal which if it is would not take too long to fix.

As they are going to take the engine out is there anything I can ask them to do as a preventative measure in case the problem it is not the intermediate shaft, os that I will not have that particular problem.

Thanks for eth help and advice.

I think a failed IMS bearing is unlikely, because it hardly ever happens in cars with Tips. Please keep us informed, and if it's indeed not the IMS bearing, ask the dealer if he can replace the bearing while the engine is out. Good luck.

I have Pirelli Pzero Tires with only 2,000 km on them. 19 in rims. Front tires at 24 pressure and back tires 29 pressure. The roads suck in my city. Very uneven roads.

I have driven other sports cars on the roads in my city and they aren't as un aligned as my porsche.

If you've got a decent tire pressure gauge, check the current pressures yourself; the dealer may have fluffed up the tires to the spec pressures, which are about 10 psi more than your usual settings. With the 35 aspect ratio of the S's tires, I don't think 10 psi will affect the ride much. And make sure it's off the sport or PASM setting; mine rides like an old Morgan +4 when I hit the little button with the Koni shock icon.

it's easy to resort to the aesthetics to cut something down. one can call the s2000 bland all day just as the next guy can call the porsche 911 a toad . . .

HAH! Funny you should say that. When co-workers/friends who knew me as the owner of that clattering M-B (although it was--and still is--a VERY good car) see the Porsche, I tell them that the Diesel turned into a frog! But you're right, aesthetic judgments are strictly personal. That said, I promise to Loren not to stray further from this thread.

no worries :D

your IMS should be fine if its a 2006 or beyond... the IMS design is still not the best engineering but the 997S has the best implementation of it...

It's an '05, and an early one at that, with a double-race IMS bearing, so I can't even replace it without tearing down the motor. I'll be using the slightly heavier weight 5W-40 Mobil 1 next oil/filter change, which will now be at 5K mi/6 mo intervals. When my clutch needs replacing, I'll see about removing the bearing cover as recommended by LN Engr. If it breaks, I have an extended 3-yr warranty, and maybe I can get a new spec motor from PCNA. In the mean time, I'm having a ball driving the thing, because the last car I had was a 118 bhp M-B W123 Diesel. I'm like a kid in a candy store!

Oh, and I chose the wrong word in describing the S2000; I meant to say "kinda bland". That's a long way from "ugly".

well... hate to say it cause I love porsches but the S2000 is more reliable than your "S"... and at 1/3 rd the price its the bargain of the century... AND its a convertible.... ugly? depends on who you ask... but when you drive something with 355 hp its hard to appreciate a mere 240 hp...

No doubt you're right, but I think I'm ready to accept a little pain for all that stimulation. See me if/when my IMS bearing lets go. Still friends? Cheers.

Yeah, the S2000 is no doubt a highly respectable and reliable machine, but it's kinda ugly and soulless too. And 240 bhp ain't 355. The 3.8 M96's bellow reminds me of a '55 300SL's. Nope, sorry: we're talking apples and oranges here. And don't even mention the baubles from Modena and Maranello; they're not in the same league either. My little green monster is my daily driver and grocery-shopping car as well.

The install is very easy. I believe there is a video of it being done on You Tube. Maybe search Raby? The video has a couple of tips that are very useful during the install.

The install video is on the LNEngineering site - it includes more than enough detail for the average DIY'er.

It's on their site, http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html, but Mr. Navarro said it's probably better to view it on You Tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bv8BTItCrF0. It looks so easy, even all-thumbs-me could install it.

Found LN's spin-on filter adapter here: http://www.lnengineering.com/store/catalog...tool-p-103.html. There's also a much better photo of it in Jim Pasha's December 08 Excellence article (thanks Maurice!) I'll likely order one before my next (and more frequent) oil change in 6 months or so. Has anyone here installed one?