355bhp

Oh my I'm so sorry to hear about your mishap. Luckily you are not hurt. Looks like the same can't be said for the green monster. Please let us know if thecar will be repaired.

Phillip

Thanks Phil. On top of that, my driver's license was (understandably) suspended for 3 months, but least it wasn't revoked. I'm learning to ride the Big Orange Sports Car (L.A. Metro bus), as well as infinite patience when working with the insurance company.

This is the latest mishap caused by my existing medical condition of epileptic seizures. Excuse the lousy drawing, but I couldn't bring myself to snap a cold-hearted cell phone photo. I'm under a doctor's care fror the condition, and thankfully nobody was hurt, as the accident happened at 40 mph and involved only parked cars. According to an old friend who's a retired atty, fellow car nut and once worked in the insurance biz, the car looks repairable. Aside from the sprung headlight (I'm a retired cartoonist), the drawing is quite accurate. If my insurance company will cooperate, I'd like to treat this topic as a repair work-in-progress, so I'm not asking for sympathy; I've already cried myself silly.

Do a search with the keywords "top" and "cabrio", and see what turns up. That's how I found that link. Good luck.

Well guys, murphy's law in full effect. My warranty expired in March and my reliable 997 now has what I fear could be a costly issue. I was wondering if someone may have experienced a similar issue with their 997 Cabriolet.

This morning while raising the top I noticed it was having a difficult time getting past the 12 o'clock position. I reached back and lent it a hand while I kept the top button pressed and was able to successfully close it. This evening I tried lowering the top and as it went back, it moved slower than normal and when it reached its fully stowed position ( the top not the actual cover) it would not complete the cycle and I was only able to get it to fully complete by pressing down on the folded top to trigger sensor that indicate it fully closed which allow the rest of the process to complete.

Has anyone had experience with a similar problem? Is the actual top actuated via a hydraulic pump or electric motors? Any ideas on proper way to troubleshoot?

Rob545, try this link: Cabrio Top Hydraulic Fluid Step by Step.

Get an '06; they have a revised and stouter IMS bearing, and yes, the 997's have fatter fannies--at least the 'S' does. No leaks or IMS/RMS issues however from my '05S with 46K+ on the odo.

Something I read, somewhere, suggested the RMS and/or IMS seal issues occur with the 996 flat 6 engine incident to slower speeds. So, I'm wondering how many RPMs are too few, or too few to begin a hard acceleration from, in any gear. I'll be surprised there's not some guideline on this.

There was a post suggesting that those who run their cars in competition events don't have the problem. That's all the excuse I needed to drive the bejeezus outta mine! On a percentage basis, IMS/RMS failures are actually rare. Do a search; the subject has been thoroughly covered before.

My C4S feels rock solid at speed. Though I can't comment on speeds above 140 mph as did the OP I can certainly confirm that up to 110 MPH my car is rock solid. The car is bone stock and running PS2's. I do make sure that my cold tire pressures in the front are identical and I mean as identical as I can get them with an accurate gauge. These cars are sensitive to variances in tires pressure and it pays to check them often.

I'm with dphatch on this one: rock steady up to 110 mph too. And it gets there effortlessly. I'm on my second set of PS2's and a recent 4-wheel alignment. Good advice re tire pressures.

Here are the details in removing the door trim.

http://www.renntech....r-micro-switch/

Paul

Thanks Paul. Great photos. I'll send the link off to my mechanic tomorrow morning.

That's a good price. I am sure it would take a couple hours

to pull everything apart and put it back together.

Paul

Got a quote from Sunset Imports of $158 for the regulator assy part, and that's nearly $50 off the list price I'm paying my mech, but there's an additional day wait plus the day-or-so shipping time. Would anybody know how much difference there'd be in R&R-ing a 997 door panel from a 996 as described in that DIY forum? I could fwd the procedure to my mech if he needs it.

While attempting to roll up the driver's side window, something popped, and the window stopped at about 3/4 up. I tried moving the door switch up and down a few more times, and the window budged a bit, but then stopped altogether with what sounded like a broken cable flopping around: no regulator motor sound either. My indy mechanic quoted me around $350, parts and labor with a two-day wait for the regulator assy.

Unless the weather is unreasonably hot, or if it's raining, I usually drive around with everything open. The car is an '05 C2S with around 48000 on the odo. Just thought I'd let everybody know.

What is the appropriate minimum RPM for the 996 manual transmission in gears 2 through 6?

I assume first gear has no minimum other than the kill factor at about 1k RPM.

Does the minimum RPM change for each gear after operating temperature is reached?

The reason I asked is that I read somewhere (can't remember where, exactly) that lugging the motor contributes to RMS and IMS leakage and failure. Any truth to that either?

Thanks for your replies

I think low-speed lugging was only a concern with the flat-four Carrera motors with roller bearing cranks. I keep my revs between 3K and the redline, and so far, it's been oil leak and explosion free.

Hi

I need right 997 "Carrera S" door sill in carbon (Genuine Porsche)! Does somebody know where I can buy only right, cause in Sweden I have to buy both left and right!!

//Joacim

Find the part no. and send a request to Sunset Imports. You might not even need the part no. Just tell 'em what you want. Good luck.

Hi 355,

Gently pull off the woofer port covers on either side, exposing two Torx screws. After removing those the unit should slide out just fine.

The covers are for the LATCH car seat system, there's nothing you need to remove there.

Mark

Ah. Many thanks Mark. The port covers came off easily and exposed the screws.

The speakers inside the carpeted subwoofer box simply unscrew. The fun bit is opening up the box itself, which is in two halves, and held together i swear with about 1,000 screws around the edge! you will need a torx screwdriver with a long shank and lots of patience! Once you open up the subwoofer box its easy to see if there's anything inside that's rattling around. But before you ipen up the subwoofer box, check to see if the trim bezels around the speaker vent outlets are loose. Mine were.

Gavins, one more thing: did you use the speaker cable as an aid to lift and/or pull the the box from the lower shelf? And thank you for your infinite patience with me!

Hi Rick, if you are talking about the two rear side=panel speakers, I simply threaded speaker cable through the space between the rear side panel and the base of the rear shelp (ie the lower section, on which the rear subwoofer box sits). If you pop out the rear side panel speakers (use a credit card around the edge of the cover) and then use a torx to unscrew the speaker mounting from the cutout, you can reach inside and grab the speaker cable that you are feeding into the space.

Thanks for the reply. Actually, I'm talking about the subwoofer box itself. And it looks like I'd first have to remove the small 3X5" speakers (with the Bose logos) from the carpeted box. Would I pry those loose using the credit card? Apparently, there's something loose and rattling around inside the plastic subwoofer housing, and I wanna get at it.

I have found the sound system to be inadequate and a couple of months ago fitted a pair of Blaupunkt THB210a powered subwoofers behind the rear seats, in the space where the Bose subwoofer box (if fitted) goes.

How did you remove the carpeted cover to get to the rear speakers? Thanks.

I found the tabs on the carpeted cover, but I don't know what to do next. Something's apparently loose inside and rattles around with a distinct metal-on-plastic thump and clatter on hard right turns. '05 C2S 6-speed.

Howdy!

Just replaced the rear 295/35 19 Michelin Pilot N1's. Tot miles on the tires 16,200, (that is a real no-****ter). For the last 2,000 to 3,000 mi the tires were realy noisy. Anyone know if Metzler makes tires for the 997 C2S?

Eddie,

Just thought of this. Most tires come with little nubbins in the grooves that are supposed to make noise as a warning to indicate excessive wear and time for replacement. I've been very happy with the OEM Micks and will likely buy a third set, but they are a little pricey. And I'll replace the fronts at the same time as the rears. Check out the Tire Rack site: http://www.tirerack.com.

Since you hit a huge pothole I would make sure they look for damage. Including checking the to make sure the wheels are true.

Other than that just follow the specs above.

This is from an L.A. pothole. It ultimately did over $12000 damage including replacement of nearly all the front passenger side suspension bits and the right radiator.

Take a DE class.

Same thing with me. It's time for a new one.

GT3!

I have an 06 997S and have driven an 09 997S and the 07 GT3.. The GT3 wins hands down.

I'm with Phil. Have you HEARD a GT3 at full chat? I rest my case.

Hi Everybody

My name is Andrew and i have recently bought a 997.1 C2s in green which is my first ever porsche and i must say i love the car to bits.

Ah. Nice color. And me too on loving the car. Ditto the welcome.

Since our local dealer gave the franchise back, the next closest is 1 1/2 hrs away. I drove there specifically to fill up w/ them a week ago and demonstrated the problem. Their suggestion was to fill up at a slower fuel flow speed from the nozzle.

What a bummer. Well, I guess all you can do is estimate how much gas you'll need before filling up, and then keep a close eye on the nozzle, topping up manually the last gallon or so (even though the placards on the pump say not to!) Then give the ignition key a quarter twist to check the fuel level. Best of luck.

I couldn't wait so I bought a turbo cab that you can see on the turbo page.

Must be nice. And it looks like you keep the lids down in anything but pouring rain and blizzards. Good boy. Oh, and the 998 is indeed still rear engined, but I think Porsche's got it right by now; I swapped ends only once, and that was on the track with the PSM off. Congrats.