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355bhp

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Posts posted by 355bhp

  1. I believe it's X-51 headers, throttle body, Airbox, intake manifolds, cams, polished heads and remapped ECU.

    Not worth the money ($25k to $28k) for 25hp in my opinion. Be better off getting the 997-2 "S" or gen 1 997 GT3 if you want the extra ponies...

    A high performance driving class or two is also an effective option. 300+ bhp is a lotta spunk for any car. Of course if you're gonna race it, that's another story.

  2. The picture is weird. You can find the two plugs

    real easy with your hand. They are down

    next to the seat. You will need to move the seat

    forward or back to get at the #10 screws.

    Paul

    Thanks! I'll order the switch from Sunset as soon as I can scrape the lousy $55 together! The switch still works as you said, if you fiddle with it.

    DONE! And it was so EASY! No allen screws; no seat fiddling; no nuthin'! It helps to eyeball the new switch to see where the little clip tabs are located, and once they pop loose, they stay stay loose. Just shove the plug back in (it can only go in one way, and no force is required) till the little locking tabs click into place, test the switches (GENTLY!) and push the assembly back into the door sill till it snaps into place.

  3. Thank you for the responses. Mine is not a daily driver and every time I drive it (Friday and/or Saturday), its like I'm driving it for the 1st time. I am not drag racing or racing on the street. I'm just doing normal driving. No street racing for me. Too old for that. I have to live for myself and my five old daughter.

    I was afraid to take it above 4000 rpm in the 1st gear or the 2nd gear because of the engine noises in high rpm and the oil burning smell. I've heard that the oil burning smell is normal. But I'll definitely try taking it above 4000 rpm. Also, I have never driven it in the sport mode so I'll try that as well. Driver Education Course is on the to-do list.

    Oh but it's such a lovely noise! (PDiddy schooled me on the premature drag racing judgment.: my apologies.) But make sure you have no oil leaks; they can forecast dire troubles. (Do a search of the forum on the topic.) If all is well with no oil leaks, don't be afraid to use those revs! You can actually rev to 4000 when the drive train is still cold, and when all is warmed to operating temperatures, up to 7000 a few times won't hurt it. Your gas mileage will suffer however, but that's not some Prius you're driving! And learn to drive by that big ol' tachometer smack in the middle of the gauge cluster; that's why it's located there. Oh, and try to eventually master the heel-and-toe double-clutch downshift technique (your driving instructor will show you how it's done). It''s great fun; it's fast, and it's actually easier on the clutch disc. Cheers!

  4. I don't think the Porsche makes for a very good off-the-line drag racer, because the rpm drop between 1st and 2nd is pretty steep. However, the next four gears are very closely spaced.

    The 3.8 S motor really comes alive at 4000 rpm--the torque peak, and as jaybart says, very few cars will be able keep up, especially when the road starts to get twisty. It frankly can scare the stuffing out of this old coot, but it does wonders for the heart rate! Just keep practicing, and remember that Tips weigh more than the 6-speeds. A word of caution: be very careful when down-shifting and the 4-5 upshift, where it's possible to hit 3rd by mistake. The rev limiter won't help at all in that situation. And a high-performance driving course on a closed track is worth every penny.

    I'd like to close by adding that racing on public streets and roads is a kinda foolish endeavor in a $50,000 car and one as fast as a 997S; we're talking a 180+mph machine here.

  5. With the PCM on and the map showing on the screen push in the knob on the right that looks like the volume knob. A menu screen will come up in grey that actually sits on top of the map itself. Rotate the knob down to the "North" setting choice and then push the knob again. This will close the pop up screen and set the map always facing north.

    Ah. You answered MY question of how to get to the little menu box. Thanks!

  6. I'm new to the forum and a new Porsche owner with an '06 Carrerra 2 with Navigation. My car did not come with manuals and I've found the basic manual on here, but have a question about the PCM which it doesn't detail. My preference is to have the navigation system remain in a North Up orientation but can't seem to find a menu option to allow this. Is this possible or do I have to deal with the screen spinning around as I make turns? If anyone on here knows how to change this I'd appreciate the help. Thank you, and man is this car awesome!!!

    Good question. I'll poke around in my PCM manual tomorrow if I have time, but I find that it can be a bit vague for this techno dolt who has to rely on his sons to guide him thru that kinda stuff! You can also use the Forum's search facility. It comes in very handy. And yes, these cars ARE awesome! Welcome to the forum!

  7. Thanks for the diagram Loren. also thanks for the other replies. had a tow 90 miles to home where spare key is located. judging from my history of stupidity and repeating, i need to locate it before my wife gives me back my keys. it's not easy getting old. thanks again, Tom

    You might try ordering a pocket key. It's a skinny plastic thing that'll fit in your wallet. They cost an arm-and-a-leg at a dealer though (mine was $235 for the key, cutting it, and programming it!), but maybe Sunset Imports can give you a considerably better deal.

  8. You need to remove the plastic wheel well to get

    to the latch. The 996 site has alot about this. I have

    included a link.

    http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ch+hood+release

    Good luck and hope you get it open.

    Paul

    I peered inside the wheel well of my '05, and though I couldn't see anything through the louvres in the plastic liner using a flashlight, I saw the 3 or 4 big screws that hold it in place. Perhaps removing the liner as PAULSPEED suggests will reveal this mysterious emergency cable release. Please let us know of your progress, because none of us are above doing dumb things like locking keys in the trunk! Good luck.

  9. An outrageous color on an outrageous car. I like it--and the black wheels too! You might need a fatter roll bar though, and those honkin', yaller cailpered brakes with the pizza pan-sized ceramic composite rotors. Oh, and lose the rear seat backs; they're extra weight. And I hope you've taken a high-performance driving course to keep it on the ground and pointing in the right direction! Cheers.

  10. Look in the nav.menu if NAVI-FIX is ON, if it is change to NAVI-FIX OFF and go back to FACTORY SETTINGS. If the problem persist a visit to the dealer is recommended.

    I finally fixed the stuck map, and after a lot of trial-and-error attempts, it was actually quite simple. I first made sure the Navigation was active (it wasn't at the time), and all I did was hit the SET button while on the stuck map. The menu came up; I selected Factory Setting, pressed the MAP button again, and BINGO; up came the map working as before. By the way, I never did see a NAVI FIX option. Cheers!
  11. I don't think it will cause any problems. Call the dealership that did the work and ask them if you can bring it by for them to drain a little oil out until it measures full not overfill!*#%@!!!

    Don't get angry with them until after they correct the problem. Once you are satisfied that everything is OK, then you can tell them how unhappy you are.

    Don't burn any bridges you may need to cross later.

    For what it is worth, about ten years ago I had a Chrysler Mini-Van that I took to Wal-Mart for an oil change, The idiots there failed to drain the old oil out of the crankcase. They added five quarts of new oil to what was a full crankcase of oil. This did not damage the engine. I ran it "over full" like this for a couple of hundred miles before I discovered the problem. I was plently angry and have never taken a car back to Wal-Mart for an oil change.

    You would think that an oil change would be something that would be simple to do. I've always been afraid they might strip the oil pan drain plug or put the filter on too tight/loose; but failing to drain the old oil out before putting the new oil in really amazed me.

    MWS

    The manual makes the point of not overfilling because of the opposed layout of the motor. But I agree 100% about not jumping all over the dealer until they rectify the overfill. And White987S's idea of specifying a little less than the correct amount is a sound one. This is one more reason to avoid dealer service depts for the simpler maintenance taks.

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